tejasnumu

I did the Harry Higley Mods and 3 degrees offset on a 120 pumped YS and it came out right on the plan CG. Maybe I got lucky with the balsa weight. My downfall was the main gear.

acdii

Well I got to fly it last Sunday and for an old plane with unknown build quality, it flew quite well. Needs work to make it a reliable flier. The covering needs to be stripped, ald all the joints glued, they are brittle. Also need to work on the throttle link, it is dead until half stick then I get a very narrow window for control. When I landed I saw why the complaints on the gear, it went splat, but surprising enough, the engine kept running and I taxied it back. Once I get it reglued and recovered and change the golden rod for something more secure on the throttle, this will be a fun plane to fly. The little bit I flew it seemed like it was on rails. Since I didn't wish to add to the damage I flew it gently, only did a slow barrel roll and a couple knife edges before I landed.

The rest of Sunday was a disaster, the elevator servo failed on my Something Extra in the up position, thankfully I was able to porpoise it down to the runway. Only damaged was ripped off gear, rest of the plane thankfully is OK. My P-47 though, read my signature. I hit the edge of a roof when landing due to several factors, sweat in my left eye, larger plane than I am used to, and an engine that wasn't running right. I have a gap between a pole barn and a line of trees that leads to the runway and I was further left than I thought and further back than I thought, and bounced the right wing off the roof edge and flipped it to the ground. I landed wrong!

Mudduc

Can anyone tel me the difference between the die cut and the laser cut ultimate kits??

acdii

Before or after its built? Once built you would have to look inside the fuse at the formers to find out.

tejasnumu

I sympathize with multiple problems in several planes on one day. I go through the design, build, courtship and love affair with one plane at a time. Don't know what condition or age the build was on the 10-300. Some builds are not well done and that is just a fact of experience, knowledge and patients. Be careful because this plane will snap and spin if you want and sometimes if you do the wrong inputs. it is an aerobatic little dude especially if power is strong. The ys engine would lift off in 12 feet and climb straight up without hesitating at 10 lbs. I was not aware of "3d" maneuvers when i discovered it would hover and walk. Throttle and all control surfaces are really something that should be tight and proportional. You will have fun if you can cure the landing gear problems. I never really did after two gear redesigns. Good luck

tejasnumu

Die cut or "crushed" is the lesser quality with some old kit mfg companies. the cutting got dull after long runs or soft balsa. Laser cutting is a product of the computer era and simply more accurate and clean parts that fit as they were submitted in the cad file. Some old kits just never were on a run during the technology advancement. Careful building and replacement of damaged parts will produce a great airplane. Don't be afraid to shim and gusset where you feel parts don't match plans. Keep datum line fixed and I use a very level building surface and check level and symmetry constantly during build. Level lets you measure 1 or 2 degree increments accurately. Laser kits or cut designs will jig up and normally fit like a glove but still keep track of all incidents and symmetry and build straight. Just my opinion.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

considering the age of Goldberg kits, were any of them ever laser cut?

i thought they were all die cut...

BTW, there is a few Ultimate kits on ebay as of today, including one ARF! (not my sales)

Bill S.

bodybuildr

My Feedback: (44)

I have only heard of Lazer cut Goldberg Ultimates. I have owned 7 of them and they were all die cut. The difference is a cleaner cut with Lazer. I never had any issues with the die cut ones though.

raubold

My Feedback: (156)

Build 3, never seen a Laser cut kit

Mudduc

Im on my second ultimate kit. The first one i had was laser cut. The one i have now is a die cut. There is an obvious difference in the quality of the cut. Just wondering if there was any design changes. There are 2 kits on ebay now. One laser one die cut. The laser cut ones came in a black box with the lable screened on. The die is in an all yellow box. Thinking about scooping up that arf cause i have no time to build right now

tejasnumu

I never saw laser cut 10-300 from Goldberg. Companies buy companies and may change things. Ask seller of kit or completed plane. Guillows kits, both laser and die-cut are out there so.. Never looked into "ARF" 10-300 but you can get hints of mass production in low wage areas by looking at the Super Skybolt kit (all balsa, ply, wire & hardwood) and Super Skybolt ARF foam and cowl changes. Some people like foam. I have build foam wings laminated with balsa. I found problems with repair to my satisfaction but that is just me. I can scarff damaged balsa and wood to original strength or stronger after damage on my planes. Lift lid on kit box and you can tell. Ebay claims are up to individual seller.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

i never knew they offered a 30% Ultimate AR either!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carl-Goldber...QAAOSwcUBYEnHz

Again, not my listing...

Bill S.

tejasnumu

Honestly I couldn't tell you who is making what any more. I used to have a real well stocked hobby shop that I frequently stopped by to look at new things. I subscribed to some magazines with new model full page advertising. Of course the club I belonged to had a nice field and it was a good "what's new" place to see different planes. I'm not against ARF models, I simply enjoy building my own stuff. It is not that I'm a great builder but it has always seemed a big part of my enjoyment of the pastime. Didn't Great Planes buy out Goldberg? I can't keep track anymore.

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Great Planes did buy Goldberg (probably when the family wanted to retire) then slowly discontinued most of the kits and all of the ARF's.

The only available kits are the Tiger 2, Tiger 60 Sport, Gentile Lady, Anniversary Cub and the Eagle Trainer. Always found it hard to believe the Chipmunk (And the Ultimate!!) wasn't a good seller but maybe the dies wore out and (as well as the licensing for the Art School scheme) and they didn't convert it to laser cut...

Bill S.

acdii

Such a shame too. Goldberg did make some nice kits. That anniversary Cub is a quick build too. I have the Chipmunk, and it built easy, but I made the mistake of using Rustoleum to paint it and it came out way too heavy. I dead sticked it and it got away from me. The wind kept pushing it west, and every time I tried to turn towards the runway it would drop a wing and spin away. It finally came down a 1/2 mile from me and did some damage to the fuse which I repaired, but now have to completely strip it and recover it.

tejasnumu

You all had to go and do it, didn't you? I was saving a 10-300 kit for what reason I can't really justify. It was a gift from a buddy at my retirement. I pulled out the box and started seriously building a sister to the one I had so much fun with before. Only change will be an O.S. 1.20 replacing the Y.S. that I sold. My only concern is still a really good solution to the main gear stability. I tried some different things in the past with moderate success. I would appreciate any systems that have proved reliable and strong before laying out the fuselage. I will still use my old "Bipes" by Higley & Sons but they don't (or didn't in my issue.) Any ideas or pics or help is welcome. I considered making oleos from a variety of tubing at a metal fab store I know. $$$ is always a consideration to ancient retired guys so elaborate machine shops are only a dream. Thanks for giving me the motivation.

peternj

My Feedback: (5)

hi guys, been a while since i been here. wondering if any one ever converted the package of plans wey started here so it can be cut by laser

Twin_Flyer

My Feedback: (4)

that would be nice, as would a 30cc version!

Bill S.

acdii

If someone has the plans for each part that can be copied, National Balsa can cut a kit from them.

MFIGHT43

Hey guys,

As life would have it, we are not going to get to our kit. Life has made a change and gotten in the way. So, I am looking to sell it for what I paid here on this forum.

It is a complete kit, all original and not started. It includes fiberglass cowl, wheel pants, and carbon fiber cabane struts.



I will ship in a second box to protect the original.

Looking for $200 plus shipping.

Thanks!

acdii

Too bad you dont have a second set of plans and manual, that is always something we can use. That reminds me, I need to get my plane out of the trailer so that I can strip, reglue, and recover it. From the few minutes I flew it, it flies very nice, so I want to make sure that it holds together while flying. I also want to make some changes from the original build to better ease my mind, a couple things stood out that concern me, like the horns being glued on instead of screwed, or bolted on

peternj

My Feedback: (5)

acdii, i have a pack of all the parts plus plans in electronic format

acdii

OK Guys, need some ideas for covering. Funny thing is I happen to have the same colors of covering that is already on the plane. I stripped the fuse last night and went over all the joints since they were brittle from age, heat, and cold. I think it was stored in an attic for years. I want to keep the red on the top and lower cowl, but change it up a bit past it, and use red checkerboard on the wing bottoms, but can't come up with a design for the wing tops.



Question regarding the elevator pushrod, does yours look like this, or did you guys do something different? This one is a bit sloppy.


This is what the fuse looks like after stripping. Looks like it had a bad landing, the left stab is glued back on, and very well. Its solid, but sloppily done.



Have to replace the servo rails too, they were used a few times too many, and a tray was made to hold servos after the rails were worn out. I also have to make a new fuel tank tray, the tank sits too high for the engine and it spits fuel and drips when not running. The other thing I need are new rudder wires, they were not setup correctly and have kinks, and need a new throttle cable, it had golden rod and was very sloppy. When done it will be tight and a great flyer.

tejasnumu

Looking real nice! Nothing like a Phoenix. I love the checkered flag look in graduating flow on top wing. Pattern is like your yellow burst on top. Four or five lines moving out to ailerons with hypotenuse radiating and separating them. I can't use it because checkers sort of gray out to my old eyes so I have to use stripes on the bottom only. These fly so well on rails and I can get disoriented so easily in point rolls. I used to love the company of the club members but oh...those clear Fall mornings on a week day flying in close over the runway with no worry of mid air or "hogging" the strip. These 10-300 models fly so well in close and low. Now the boys do it with six thousand dollar arfs and it is "3D." More days like that and I'd checker top and bottom with empennage too. I use "pull-pull" braided line on both rudder and elevator. It gets a little crowded and yours is already covered. That little 30 degree angle back of that elevator arrow shaft push rod would be a problem for me too.

acdii

How did you pull-pull the elevator? Run the cable through the turtledeck? I changed my mind on the checkerboard, only because I don't have any, and don't really want to spend any more money than I have to on this. I found several rolls of blue and red that I picked up from SIG this year that will work. So wing bottoms blue, tops red, with yellow and white accents, and red whit and blue fuse. I will keep the cowl as it is and flare the red into blue behind the landing gear. Going to either brace or replace the gear.