EscapeFlyer

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I am fairly confident that had a lot more to do with the pilots than the design. It is the only pictures or video outside of MAN I could find of it.

Brian

vogelm1

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Hi All - dusted off an Ultimate kit I had in the shop for several years and started a build. This thread has been awesome for learning about the little quirks with this kit. Plan to power it with a Saito 1.25. Have any of you used this engine combination? And if so, did you need to put elevator servos in the tail to get her balanced? I was thinking about Hitec HS 225's back there; they're a "mini" servo, but have the same torque and speed as a standard-sized. But don't necessarily want to "shim" the servo higher (to keep servos from interfering inside fuse) and have an ugly looking mount. Thanks for any advice!!

mattnew

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have one with an O.S. 1.20 in the nose…. servos are in stock locations and it balances perfectly. used to have a .91 in the nose and it was tail heavy by a lot. I think you'll be ok. install servos last and use them as balance weight as well….

72

I have just installed 225's in my Ultrasport 60 and did what you are looking for. These pictures aren't too clear but they show the servos stacked one above the other and are the same distance to the elevators. They are spaced up and down so the servo arms "push" from the same centerline. This allows you to put them in as far back as you want and is only the width of one servo.

vogelm1

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Thanks mattnew and 72. After sleeping on it, I think I'm putting a pair of servos in the tail; shorter, more positive linkage and don't have to deal with running long tubes or a spruce stick inside the fuselage. 72, I like your idea of offsetting the servos - no doubt that your Ultrasport has an even narrower tail than the Ultimate. I rec'd a PM from another member stating he put 225's in his Ultimates tail and didn't have to shim the mount - appears there's enough room back there after all. Thanks again! Will post back with pics when she's done...probably not until March/April.

SRQFlyer

My Feedback: (17)

About servos in the tail - I've had four of these great bipes and the #4 is in rebuild just now. It will have a Saito 1.50 in the nose, so the servos are going in the tail (maybe even the rudder). I have done this before, using a flat plate fastened to the fuse framework and short 4-40 rods. There are no servos "hanging out" in the breeze. The plate is glued/screwed to the framework (picture taken from bottom of fuse). There will be a 1/16" ply access plate on the bottom of the fuse. The rudder servo will mount in the tail, if I need to for balance. Otherwise, I'll cover the hole and do pull-pull.
Regards,
Jim

vogelm1

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Another great solution - thanks for posting the pics. You could put the servos just about anywhere they're needed to balance the plane this way (though short linkages probably preferred).

mustangherb

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Hey guys I just recently picked up an upstarted CG Ultimate 10-300 kit. I have built 4 kits to date, so I am still learning some of the basic. I am hoping that you will welcome me into the brotherhood. I started in the hobby about 1-1/2 years ago, but I have amassed a few planes already. Most are acrobatic/3D planes (3dhs, Extreme Flight) electrics, but I recently built a Sig Seniorita for a base for my first glow powered plane (flies great by the way, but slooooow). I have already built the tail feathers, but I really would like to decide on an engine before proceeding. I am looking at possibly the OS 95/120AX or a 120 four stroke. I also know that I would like to use either an aluminum LG or a carbon fiber one. I have just started reading thru the post in this thread, so I am sure most of the info is already in here, but feel free to offer up your suggestion. Also, does anyone have or offer a laser cut version of the formers/fuse/ribs?

vogelm1

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Mustangherb - I'm working on one too, although it's mostly framed up and with a little more sanding it'll be ready to cover. When I bought the kit 4 or 5 years ago, I ordered the glass cowl and wheel pants right away from Stan's Fibertech - he also had an aluminum landing gear available which I bought as well. I highly recommend that because as folks here stated, the wire gear is flimsy on hard landings and will damage the lower wing at a minimum. Please note that Stan's is no longer in business, but I believe Fiberglass Specialties has all the same parts you'd need. I think your choices in engine are ideal. I plan to put a Saito 1.25 in mine and it should be a ball to fly.

This was a great thread to learn about all the quirks and things to watch out for while building - take a couple nights to read through it - really helped me on my build!

abbott915

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Hi Mustangherb,

I just ordered a cowl and canopy from Fiberglass Specialties and it is scheduled to arrive on Friday. I've heard nothing but good about them, and I ordered it on Friday morning and received a shipping confirmation same day!!

As for the formers, fuse and ribs, I'm working on that now. You can see my progress at this thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...300-build.html

If you'd like specifics, you can always email me at [email protected]

CRJDriver

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The 120AX would be perfect! I have a 1.08 in mine and I would like to have a bit more power.

mustangherb

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I meant to ask, what does it take to officially join the Brotherhood?

mustangherb

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I started my build last week and although I have an unstarted kit I used some Midwest balsa stock I had to build the tailfeathers. I have also started making templates of the formers and ribs. Before I start on the wings I want to settle on what mods will need to be made. I have read on here about wing mods on the top wing mounting point and the lower wing, with reference to Harry Higley's "Bipes". Could someone provide a detailted picture, as I cannot find the book.

alfredbmor

Welcome to this great brotherhood, shortly you will get an official number (I have to find out which one is the next one), either way, you are in, have fun, post photos or comments about your build and share your experiences, and of course be welcome!!

alfredbmor

I will try to post some pictures tomorrow, elevator servos are located in the tail. Originally I opted for this setup because of a heavy Magnum 1.20 four stroke engine, sometime later I changed the engine and bolted in an OS 1.20 AX, which is a great engine with lots of power and less weight than my Magnum. Because of the Magnum size the engine had to be bolted a bit further front, the OS 1.20 AX, is located a bit to the rear because of the easiness of installation and balance was great.

mustangherb

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Thank you so much for the kind reply and invitation! I am looking forward to catching up on all the great material posted on this thread. By the way how is the landing gear from the company in the below link?

http://www.carboncopyuk.com/acatalog..._Ultimate.html

braddock VC

Found a pic of my ultimate, it has yet to fly and needs the wheel pants fitting. It's fitted with a saito 125 with 16x6 prop. It weighs just over 8 pounds but needs 6 ounces of lead fastened to the engine mount so will come out at just over 8.5 pounds.

nute12

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looks good braddock, yer right tho, Ultis just do not look right without the pants.

mustangherb

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Working on my 4th build to date and my second fuel plane. A am scratch building my Goldberg ultimate. I made templates from an existing kit and have cut out most of the fuse parts. I will running a new O.S. 120AX that I recently purchased, but I need to make a decision on the servos to use if I use 2 elevator servos. I have never been very good at deciding on the best servos for the job, so I typically over buy. I would like to try and eliminate spending extra money. I would like to get input on possible choices for all the servos.

mustangherb

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vogelm1,
I order my gear from Fibertech N More today from Rick and a Bisson Pitts muffler for the 120AX. It has a long ways to go before it is complete, but I know that it will be worth it in the end. I am thinking of using Koverall and painting on this build. I will keep you informed and thanks for the info!

mustangherb

My Feedback: (6)

I have cut out most of the parts for the fuse and assembled them to point. I will post pictures of the fuse later, but the images on this post show the parts that I have cut or made templates of so far. You will also notice that I reinforced the area underneath the location of the cabane with 1/32" G-10. The trailing edges are the only pieces that I will not have to make as Great Planes still carries that part (#4303).

TrevorCH

Please put me down for #19.

Just finishing my first 10-300. A friend gave me a kit he purchased around 1991, knowing that I like this style of kit and have not weakened for ARF type. Being retired certainly allows more time for this style of building. Not a fast builder, but 6 weeks seems quite good taking into account quite a few other retirement activities.

If I was starting another I would make some changes to the top wing mounting. What a pain to get the rod through the centre! I would also revise the caban mountings. Big fan of GRP but not ABS, however too late now, but at least I have bought colour matching GRP spats.

Happened to have an almost unused OS 120 Surpass, that came with the kit and surprisingly not difficult to squeeze in and the balance is almost perfect with an empty tank.

Another couple of weeks before our club site opens after the winter break.

Switzerland is a great centre of RC modelling.

Best regards,

TrevorCH

J.Paul Saure

After a "brief" time-out because of life and its "stuff"... ...let's get on this!

Filler and sanding on the wheelpants:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5&l=927a545f46
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1&l=32b9dacc93


Cowl fitting:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7&l=2e21fa34b3

Enough for today!

TrevorCH

Dislike the thin wire running through the wing and the turned up ends of the caban. Very tricky to insert and really getting frustrated.

Would like to put in a bolt through the wing from above with a captive nut underneath.

Any one tried this method and what are the pro's and con's?

mikmerl

Trevor, I enjoyed my Ultimate for years with the original wire top wing anchor without any problems. I had installed internal guides and the wire would slide effortlessly into place.

Having said that during a recent rebuild to the same model (a how low can you go knife edge led to smashed wings and a 20 year hibernation) I decided to discard the wire anchor for fixing bolts.

See my posts #920 and #922 of this thread to see my approach to this task.

mike