Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.
01-11-2015, 10:16 AM
#1626
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Mine is probably the nicest flying plane I have. It flys extremely straight and with no bad quarks. I am in the process of installing a 20cc gas engine in mine. (had a ys120, got tired of feeding it and the slim) The kits are quite valuable, I would not trash it as you suggested. At the right price someone will buy it or if you build it you wont regret how she will fly.
Jeff
Jeff
01-11-2015, 03:37 PM
#1627
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I just Bought an (OLD) Comet Kit! High Wing 52" Wingspan! & Rubber Band Powered! Checked Kit & It's All there With Plans! Could change to Gas or Electric? If anyones Interested in it? I had to Buy it, I was the only person to Bid on it on EBay! All I know is that it's an Aeronca Chief? Flying Models It's Old & It Must Glide Well or (Very Slow) Flight with 52" Wingspan! Good Winter Project! Ribs Must be Cut from Sheet!
01-11-2015, 03:52 PM
#1628
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Carl Goldberg makes a Nice kit called the (Nobler) It was my Last Control Line Plane But, It should have been Built for R/C use! I could do a (Loop) & It's a Big Plane! I had UP flap with DOWN elevator Linked! A Lot of Drag But a Very Tight Loop!
01-11-2015, 05:27 PM
#1629
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Gentlemen (Ladies, if there are any??)
Would Like to join, if possible, read on.....
I've acquired an Ultimate 10-300 from somewhere, sometime??? It's a terrible thing to "loose" a mind... Seriously, I really have no idea how I came to possess this kit, and it's been with me a good number of years. I decided it was time to part with it (Ebay). So I decided to take an inventory, make sure everything was there before I listed it. There's some things missing (major and minor) which rules out listing it. I found the major parts (canopy, wheel pants,) are available from Fiberglass Specialties and the rest I can make, buy(wood). I guess I'm looking for help with what's next, trash what I have or push forward and build it. I had a Balsa USA Pheaton 1.20 size given to me RTF, flew it once, didn't like the way it flew. So I gave it away, RTF. Obviously you all have and fly the aforementioned Ultimate, so I'd like some honest thoughts on the direction to go.
Got2retire( actually did)
Would Like to join, if possible, read on.....
I've acquired an Ultimate 10-300 from somewhere, sometime??? It's a terrible thing to "loose" a mind... Seriously, I really have no idea how I came to possess this kit, and it's been with me a good number of years. I decided it was time to part with it (Ebay). So I decided to take an inventory, make sure everything was there before I listed it. There's some things missing (major and minor) which rules out listing it. I found the major parts (canopy, wheel pants,) are available from Fiberglass Specialties and the rest I can make, buy(wood). I guess I'm looking for help with what's next, trash what I have or push forward and build it. I had a Balsa USA Pheaton 1.20 size given to me RTF, flew it once, didn't like the way it flew. So I gave it away, RTF. Obviously you all have and fly the aforementioned Ultimate, so I'd like some honest thoughts on the direction to go.
Got2retire( actually did)
:-) honestly I'm stuck on you saying you didn't like the way a phaeton flew... :-)
Pictures would be helpful to determine where you are at. is it started?
Even with parts missing it might still be sellable on ebay. Just be honest in the listing. Started Ultimates typically sell around $130-$150. If you list what is missing and its not too significant you might still get $100 or so for it.
01-27-2015, 05:02 PM
#1632
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I am needing some advise from fellow brothers that have converted to gas? I bought and installed a vvrc 20cc gas on my ultimate. It originally had a ys 120 on it with 2 mini servos in the tail for the elevator. With the 20cc on the nose I am now way tail heavy, even with the battery mounted to the engine mount beam. What did everyone else have to do with their conversions? I should be able to move one elevator servo and move it up front rather then add more weight to the plane. what is everyone using for linkage/push rods for the elevator with a front mounted servo?
Thanks for any advise
Jeff
Thanks for any advise
Jeff
01-28-2015, 06:30 AM
#1633
My Feedback: (2)
I am needing some advise from fellow brothers that have converted to gas? I bought and installed a vvrc 20cc gas on my ultimate. It originally had a ys 120 on it with 2 mini servos in the tail for the elevator. With the 20cc on the nose I am now way tail heavy, even with the battery mounted to the engine mount beam. What did everyone else have to do with their conversions? I should be able to move one elevator servo and move it up front rather then add more weight to the plane. what is everyone using for linkage/push rods for the elevator with a front mounted servo?
Thanks for any advise
Jeff
Thanks for any advise
Jeff
I'm surprised your 20cc + ignition weighs less than the 1.20.
I used square carbon fiber rod, hooked up the way the plans have the balsa rod for the original plane.
01-28-2015, 01:48 PM
#1636
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Moving the servos sounds Good? You can use (Z) Bends Like Old School or they make assorted types of Linkage. A Flexible Tube & Sheath or Solid Threaded Rods? If you do use a Tape measure & Z Bends ? It should get you Close enough to Fine Tune with the Trims on the Radio! I would Check Balance & Move servos Until it Balances Holding Wing @ Chord Line?
Last edited by charlie111; 01-28-2015 at 02:04 PM. Reason: mistake
01-28-2015, 06:54 PM
#1638
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Yes if you use Flexible Tube Make sure there is no Movement of Tube itself! You can also run Bell crank Wire threw a Straight tube? If servos were in rear & Balance was correct You may Have to move Motor Back If it is Nose heavy or Wing Forward with servos up front?
01-29-2015, 06:26 AM
#1641
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thanks
Jeff
01-29-2015, 08:32 AM
#1642
It has been a while since I had a CG Ultimate, but can't you still check the balance inverted so you can use the bottom wing for support, and just use your fingers? It is not that big of a plane. Do not bog your mind down with the tapered wing. Just check the balance at the fuselage. Is it 2.5" back from the LE of the top wing or the bottom wing?
01-29-2015, 09:31 AM
#1643
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I am needing some advise from fellow brothers that have converted to gas? I bought and installed a vvrc 20cc gas on my ultimate. It originally had a ys 120 on it with 2 mini servos in the tail for the elevator. With the 20cc on the nose I am now way tail heavy, even with the battery mounted to the engine mount beam. What did everyone else have to do with their conversions?
Jeff
Jeff
- Thomas
01-29-2015, 10:52 AM
#1644
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I guess my main question is with the wing being tapered, 2.5in at the center of the wing would not be the same as measured 3 in out from the center. Do I go back to the 2.5 point in the center and draw a line parallel to the trailing edge and place the balancer on that line? My plans show the balance point on the bottom wing.
thanks
Jeff
thanks
Jeff
01-29-2015, 11:29 AM
#1646
Jeff,
First off, the CG Ultimate wing is not tapered at all. it is constant chord. It is SWEPT. It makes little difference to answer your question EXCEPT for the part about drawing a line parallel to the TE...I would have to go look at my plans (working out of town, so that will be on the weekend at best), but if they show the CG at 2.5" from the leading edge of the bottom wing [measured in the center of the fuselage], then draw a line perpendicular to the center-line (center rib) of the wing, extending far enough out to set your pads on THAT line (this line will be 2.5" from the leading edge of the wing at the center of the fuselage).
There are other ways to determine the CG on a swept wing, but if you know where the point is in the center of the fuse, this will be the simplest.
Hope this helps.
George
First off, the CG Ultimate wing is not tapered at all. it is constant chord. It is SWEPT. It makes little difference to answer your question EXCEPT for the part about drawing a line parallel to the TE...I would have to go look at my plans (working out of town, so that will be on the weekend at best), but if they show the CG at 2.5" from the leading edge of the bottom wing [measured in the center of the fuselage], then draw a line perpendicular to the center-line (center rib) of the wing, extending far enough out to set your pads on THAT line (this line will be 2.5" from the leading edge of the wing at the center of the fuselage).
There are other ways to determine the CG on a swept wing, but if you know where the point is in the center of the fuse, this will be the simplest.
Hope this helps.
George
01-29-2015, 11:41 AM
#1648
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That is what I was thinking. I just measured my wing and measured and at the fuse side it will be 2 inches back. I think I am putting too much into this.
thanks
jeff
thanks
jeff
01-29-2015, 01:13 PM
#1649
Just for clarity, "Sweep" is when the wings, tip has been moved back relative to the root, moving thickest part of the airfoil aft. This creates a longer nose moment, and gives more stability in pitch and yaw. Taper, is when the high point is constant, but the tip chord is narrower than the root.
On a taper, the CG remains constant, full span. With taper, the CG does not. This is why it is best to measure CG at the fuselage.
On a taper, the CG remains constant, full span. With taper, the CG does not. This is why it is best to measure CG at the fuselage.
Last edited by vertical grimmace; 01-30-2015 at 08:31 AM.
01-30-2015, 02:25 AM
#1650
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Ultimate
ultimates were the most popular plane in my area for a long time. Some of the locals got together and bought a cnc machine and made there own version of the cg ultimate. It was 60" ws with a lowered top wing. Servos on each flight surface with a ys170 on the nose. They called it a barnstormer muscle bipe. I still have one. By far the best plane I own. I will see about some pics