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  1. #26
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build


    ORIGINAL: ejam

    Zor,
    F4 is the front piece that makes the windshield. You may be talking about where the fuse starts to taper in running towards the rear? If so, there are doublers on each side. and at the point where the fuse sides begin to taper, the doublers have small cuts to be bent. The directions are a little unclear as what to do. I states to cut into the part at the dashed line, and glue. But what I did was left it unglued till the fuse was done, and then glued them( the small cut off part) in.
    When I finish the wing covering, I will take a picture of the doublers to help explain.

    Quigleywins, I am covering the wing with solite from mountain models. This film is very light, and took me some time to learn how to work with it. I have found that using low heat to make the glue stick to frame, then turn up heat and shrink. It does have a lower heat rang than other coverings, so you do have to be carefull when using it.
    In red above is what I was referring to.
    I thought it was at the F4 former.

    It looks good.
    The balsa is probably quite soft so it could take the bend.

    Thanks for the reply and the info on your covering.

    Zor

  2. #27

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Here are some pictures of the wing covering finished and the doubler.

    One thing that I was thinking about while build step 5, if I glued it when it states, will it bend when you get to the step to glue the rear of fuse together. So I thought it would be better to crack the parts and not cut them and glue them after the rest of the fuse was in place.
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  3. #28
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build


    ORIGINAL: ejam

    Here are some pictures of the wing covering finished and the doubler.

    One thing that I was thinking about while build step 5, if I glued it when it states, will it bend when you get to the step to glue the rear of fuse together. So I thought it would be better to crack the parts and not cut them and glue them after the rest of the fuse was in place.
    ejam,

    I think you did the proper thing. I ran into a similar situation building the wings of my sailpane.

    The wings leading edge has two bends in each wing side.
    The drawings show a cut 2/3 throught the cross section and I tried to do it that way .
    The wood being soft it broke on the first attempt at bending.
    I sanded the crosssections to the angle and butt glued them.A little piece of scrap 1/16" thick ply was glued as reinforcement behind the leading edge .

    In the prototype the wood used for the leading edge was no doubt harder wood that could stand the bending. So they showed that on the drawings. Whoever makes a prototype can select the wood hardness but whoever assembles a kit does not necessarily have that privilege.

    The wood quality or hardness is not always the same in theassembled kits.

    The extra strength gained with harder balsa in some structure location is often well worth the slight gain in weight.

    Thanks for your pictures and please let us have more pics as you progress.
    You are doing great.

    Zor


  4. #29

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    No pictures on this post, just want to make a sugestion. I was sanding the fuse last night, and noticed that where the formers notch into the fuse, and the top and bottom notches, show dark. That is because of the laser cuts. They should have been lightly sanded before installing. Some of the notches are just a little lower than the fuse surface. I was going to cover the fuse in white solite, but the notches will show through. I know I could fix this with some light spackel, but I dont want to add any weight. I think I am just going to use my dremal with a small sanding stone.
    It lookes like no matter what I do, the white covering is going to show any color differences. Has anyone used white solite covering on their fuse, that could post a picture of what it looks like?

  5. #30
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Light spackle weigh next to nothing.
    Same for glue in relation to the total weight of a model.

    It is beyond my understanding and intelligence that so many people are constantly mentioning "extra weight" in relation to glue and such things as filler for small fissures.

    What will anyone notice in the flight performance of a 32 oz model if and extra 10 grams of glue or spackle makes the model much stronger or of better appearance.

    Same for a 10 lbs model if there is an extra 2 or 5 oz of extra weight.

    So many do not seem to have a feeling for "what is going on ?" about a model airplane being pulled throught the atmosphere by a thrust force no matter how that force is created.

    A similar situation exist about the forces acting on the control surfaces.
    Hang your model with a string on the engine shaft and let it be supported by a helper just off the floor.
    Now with your finger push on one aileron or a wing tip and see how much force is needed to make the model rotate around the lingitudinal axis or stop it from rotating (like opposite ailerons to stop or control the banking angle).

    Will anyone tell me I am wrong and straighten me out ?
    You are welcome and I am anticipating your responses.

    Zor


  6. #31

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    I want this model to fly slow, and use the smallest motor with electonics. For me, its kind of a challange when building. Im sure I could just slap this model together and it would fly, but I like to try to improve or build lighter. My last build was the Dynaflite Peice O Cake. I made a few changes to make the wing stronger, but also made some changes to make it lighter. I am sure if I had just used any glue and slaped it together, it would have came out heavy and not have flown as well as it does.

    As for using light spackle, it would still show through, showing up whiter compaired to the rest of the fuse. I think Im just going to cover it the way it is. And if it shows through, oh well.

  7. #32
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Hello again ejam

    ORIGINAL: ejam

    I want this model to fly slow, and use the smallest motor with electonics. A fine idea and goal to achieve For me, its kind of a challange when building. Im sure I could just slap this model together and it would fly, but I like to try to improve or build lighter. Again a fine idea but we cannot just make such statement without some evaluation of the difference. My last build was the Dynaflite Peice O Cake. I made a few changes to make the wing stronger, but also made some changes to make it lighter. I am sure if I had just used any glue and slaped it together, it would have came out heavy and not have flown as well as it does. There is very little difference in the weight of a model due to the glue used unless we are talking about an indour micro plane that weigh only a few grams (less than one oz).

    As for using light spackle, it would still show through, showing up whiter compaired to the rest of the fuse. I think Im just going to cover it the way it is. And if it shows through, oh well. The color could be uniform if the finish is opaque.
    Best regards de Zor.

  8. #33

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Well I am back to working on the star cruiser. Had to take a break and work on my other sons busted Eliminator 40.
    Here are some pictures.
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  9. #34

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Update on build. I have landing gear installed, motor mounted, servos installed. Just need to glue the tail on and cover fuse. All up weight is 16oz . The covering of the fuse wont even be noticed.

  10. #35

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Here are some pictures.
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  11. #36
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    ejam,

    You are coming along beauifully.

    The design of this model is very similar to the Spectra sailplane I am building now.

    The Spectra is somewhat larger with 78" wingspan and a comparative large wing and no landing gear.
    I am anxious to see it fly.

    What did you use for finishing ?
    Did you cover the fuselage as well ?

    Best regards de Zor.


  12. #37

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    The build has been finished. I havent did a maidan yet due to weather. I have started on the Herr Cloud Ranger buid. Starting off with the wings, they have choice to add ailerons, witch I will be installing. I may just use the cloud ranger wings on the star cruiser.
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  13. #38
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build


    ORIGINAL: ejam

    The build has been finished. I havent did a maidan yet due to weather. I have started on the Herr Cloud Ranger buid. Starting off with the wings, they have choice to add ailerons, witch I will be installing. I may just use the cloud ranger wings on the star cruiser.
    Hello ejam,

    I am so glad to hear from you.
    You are doing very well with the new wings.

    I am still curious about my questions in post #36.

    Here I have been a bit lazy since the holidays and one reason is that I have a problem installing a 2.4 Ghz receiver with its satellite in the small fuselage of my Spectra.

    It is an old design that used to receive a 72 Mhz receiver and a long antenna on the outside. Now installing the 2.4 Ghz is a bit of a problem. I am attaching a couple of pictures illustrating the situation.

    There is no big rush as I will not be able to fly before April or May. I put the skis on my Skybolt and went to the field that I found not accessible.

    If you or anyone has a suggestion to install this receiver, it would be much appreciated.

    I cannot install it in the cannopy area because there is the motor control servo, the switches, the main battery connector, the 20 amp. fuse. Also the two batteries have to come out throughthis area.

    Some how I have to locate the two receivers so I can see the LEDs. I am thinking possibly that the satellite could go just behind the wing trailing edge and half of the antenna coult stick up as if it was a VHF antenna then make an opening in the wings covered with a celluloid and install the main receiver in front of the servos. A good range check would be in order.

    Worst comes I may just install a 72 Mhz Rx and put a long antenna and use my JRXP7202 transmitter.

    Oh well ; problem solving is part of the fun in this hobby.

    Keep us posted with your progress.

    Best 2 U de Zor
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  14. #39

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    What I would do is mount the primary rx on the side of fuse around the battery area. Then run the sec. rx behind the tail servos. Things look tight. Is that a servo controlled speed controller? If so, you can replace that with newer Electronic speed controller.

  15. #40
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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    ejam,

    Hey ___you were righ there and thanks for the suggestion.

    I have to have an orientation of the main receiver so that I can connect and disconnect the servos and the battery from it without taking the receiver out.

    There is not enough height to install the main Rx antenna vertical so I am thinking about installing it at an angle of about 45 degrees against the left side wall so the antenna would be between the two servos and the rear of the main battery (Onyx 2,000 mAh 7.2 volts NiMH) which will sit on the bottom floor just about centered on the CG .

    On top of the main battery will be the radio battery (Spektrum 1,100 mAh 4.8 volts NiCd). I am counting on locating this battery adjustable front to back to locate the CG dead on the center of its recommended range to start with.

    Both batteries will be locked in place so they cannot move forward or backward once the CG is located properly.

    I am first setting this model as per supplied brushed motor (Goldfire S 600) and the supplied nylon 8 x 4 fixed pitch prop. I intend later to install a brushless motor, ESC and lipo battery.

    I am only looking for enjoyment not for contesting.

    Keep in touch and let us know of your progress.

    Zor

  16. #41

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    RE: Herr Engineering Star Cruiser Build

    Has anyone flown the starcruiser with a nitro engine. If so what size engine did you use.


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