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-   -   Topflite Gold kit P-47 (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-building-121/10332537-topflite-gold-kit-p-47-a.html)

bigtim 02-18-2011 08:40 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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nice to see another 60 size Jug build did mine a couple years ago using a OS 120 pumper, I am now refitting it with a 2.4 receiver and a newer 120, I like the gas option that DLE is offering it looks interesting.

mine is glassed with Varathane Diamond poly and .56oz glass, painted with warbirdcolors.com paints,all the logos were done using stencils from getstencils.com

fully loaded,robart retractable tail wheel, retracts from century jet,full cockpit kit,it weighs in at about 11lbs I did add a small bit of lead to the nose for balance,even with the 120 pumper

Terry Bolin 02-18-2011 08:56 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
"Bigtim" Real nice.. I like the colors and the finish! Thanks for the pics!

Goran619 02-19-2011 07:50 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Well Igot the front sheeting done and the cockpit deck cut out. The 2nd and 3rd pics so the tail there are some gaps and holesI need to clean up and fill in. The 5th pic shows whenI was cutting out the cockpit deck my knife slipped andI took out a piece of the sheetinghttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../sad_smile.gifso Ihad to cut out around the spot and place in a chunk to fix it. Oh well chalk it up to a learning expiriment. And Iam so excited i just bought a Futaba 10CHGand 3 rx last night can't wait to get it and get my heli set up with that and the governorhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...eeth_smile.gif

Goran619 02-19-2011 08:33 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Can someone please post some pics of the razorback cockpit fairings and the fairing formers, I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what they are supposed to look like when finished.

Nordicz 02-19-2011 10:29 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Big Tim,

Really nice job. Especially the rear retractable tail wheel. Not something a person typically see's on the Top Flight .60 size. I am sure that was an interesting mod. By any chance do you have have some build information on that modification?

Z

andernamen 02-19-2011 12:02 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Terry,
Still not too late to add retracts!! They will really make that P-47 look great in the air. Just a thought.

raptureboy 02-19-2011 12:16 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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ORIGINAL: andernamen

Terry,
Still not too late to add retracts!! They will really make that P-47 look great in the air. Just a thought.
I agree, it just has to have retracts[X(] and they are not that hard to put in if you are using air units. Terry here are a couple more pictures of my previous plane.

bigtim 02-19-2011 01:20 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 


ORIGINAL: Nordicz

Big Tim,

Really nice job. Especially the rear retractable tail wheel. Not something a person typically see's on the Top Flight .60 size. I am sure that was an interesting mod. By any chance do you have have some build information on that modification?

Z
it was fairly easy it just took some time,the retract is actuated by a robart air piston placed on the floor of the cockpit and a long pushrod down the fuse to deploy and retract, steering is by pull pull, using 30lb plastic coated steel fishing leader,I went for a single HD servo to control the TW and rudder since the only time there is dual pressure is when its on the runway.
here is where I posted allot of my build progress there is several references to the mods and problems I encountered during my build I first was going with a 26 gasser but it was way to big and I was going to need to hack the cowl up, the DLE 20 looks allot tighter of course now that I have a new OS 120 installed.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_48..._1/key_/tm.htm

the doors were tricky,had I thought them out a little better I might have been able to use solid closers, but ended up using ball point pen springs to get them to close properly.
here is a more detailed write up I did post #51 instead of repeating it here I will link it http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_67...tm.htm#7433228


Nordicz 02-19-2011 02:01 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Big Tim,

Thanks for the information. I was able to read both threads while waiting for my WB poly to dry on my Top Flight Giant Scale P-47. I had a FW-190D .60 size and the neighbor has a P-51 .60 size with the standard tail wheel set up. But I do like the top flight .60 warbirds and intend on having one or two around. Maybe next build...:eek: and your information will help me out tremendously. First Glass Job for me by the way and I agree with you that the WB poly is a nice way to go.

Z

bigtim 02-19-2011 02:20 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
funny its been a while since I have read through those threads myself, I have been in a bit of a RC building burn out slump , but reading through those kind of got me going again.

right now I have 3 projects floating in limbo, getting the T-Bolt back together,finishing my scratch built Royal FW190A8, and I also have a nearly finished ESM FW190 I repainted for a more authentic look, and nearly completely put together,powered by DLE 30.

life has a way of taking all the time up in the day,there's some great info on the water based glassing methods from www.tompierce.net as well as lots of scale detailing tricks

Nordicz 02-19-2011 04:48 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Tim,

The Tom Pierce method is the approach I am basing my work off of. All done as of now just have a few extra coats to apply. I do not mean to high Jack the build thread and appologize for being a bit off topic. But I cannot say enough about the .60 size Top Flight models. They fly great and look great. I truly appreaciate the work you guys are doing on the P-47. I would be remise if I didn't mention this. I have not flown the .60 size Bolt but if you ever get your hands on the now out of production FW 190 pick it up. That plane was the best darn flyer I've had to this point. Smooth as silk, true and you will not be disapointed.

Z

MinnSpin 02-19-2011 05:06 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Is that a thermal pane window you're using for a building board? Cool idea.
Nice build, too, by the way!

brockettman 02-19-2011 05:15 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Terry,

Great thread! I have a T/F P-47 that I'd like to start building this spring.

Just moved to a new place and haven't got my building table set up as of yet.

Thanks to everyone for the input, the tips and tricks shared are really helpful.... The P-47 will be my 4th kit since I've returned to R/C modeling.

I'm subscribed :D

Ben

Terry Bolin 02-19-2011 07:12 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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The pictures below are in answer to the building table I use. It is a 3/4" thick double pane glass out of my old sliding door.. I put in french doors in it's place,,( much easier to get out with planes than a slider) I shim the glass flat before each build to keep things straight...If I cant slide a piece of paper under the straight edge any where...it's good to go.
I dont have any pics for todays work yet.. more sanding and I was final fitting the flaps and ailerons. Setting the end gaps and clearances.. Since the ailerons are at an angle to the flaps.. you wont want a "V" gap between the two so I ended up sanding the Aileron end next to the flap at a bevel from top to bottom to clear at all travel angles.. this worked at all points of flap drop when set right so work with it slowly.. I perfer the Ailerons have a dubro Pin type hinge instead of a CA hinge to make things move free and less drain on servos..I think CA type are fine for rudders but everything else I like the free movement of the pin type... make sure and bevel every surface from the hinge center line top and bottom far enough back to prevent binding.. you want plenty of travel without TE and surface hitting up or down.

Terry Bolin 02-20-2011 07:02 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Ben, good luck with your kit..they are great products. I hope to buy the p-51 version this year for next winter..If any of you need to contact me about the kit try [email protected]..I might see that befor I see the post here..please post here too. it would help everyone
Goran, I have not done the cockpit fairings yet either. The book is not any good at all on discribing the install or finished end on the fairings. here is a picture of what I got on the fairings. 3 sides of the flat wood are beveled to blend with the fus sides when installed and the arched 1/6 wood is glued to the bottom of the triangle flat..it is my take that the arch is to fit against the fuse side at the rear of the canopy and then press the flat wood to the fuse sides. I have not done this yet either..Hope this pic helps!
Add CA thin to the back side of the flat wood to make it strong where it is thin from the bevel.

Goran619 02-20-2011 07:10 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Hey terry are you going to go with a retractable tail wheel or you sticking with the fixed that comes with the kit? This may sound like a stupid question but the middle stringers on the back of the lower fuselage did they go all the way forward to former 5D or did they stop at 5B?

Goran619 02-20-2011 07:36 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Well so far here is my progress for the morning. Igot the lower crutch's, formers 1-9 in and the stringers and wing saddles fitted and glued in.

raptureboy 02-20-2011 03:51 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Here are a few pictures of my progress thus far. I am going with the retractable tail wheel and scale control likages that Connery used on his build "Dallas Blonde" A little bit of work,because of figuring out the details but worth it when it comes together, thats what model building is all about. It's like when I first learned how to build stair cases and railings.

raptureboy 02-20-2011 03:57 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Lets try it again, this photo upload program leaves a whole lot to be desired. Here are the tail wheel shots. I hope

Terry Bolin 02-20-2011 06:32 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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I have had three set of retracts in my life (still have 'em) and do like how they look in the air but I dont like retracts over all.. I perfer simple landing gear and lighter planes... The gear shown above looks good...(Takes some planning for sure) Thanks for keeping this going!
I worked on the elevators and hinges today...Here's how I like to do 'em...Mark your center line with a t pins and ruler...Then make a line on the top and bottom of each elevator 3/16"back from the LE. (dont take off the whole elevator leading edge at the top or bottom, leave a little meat...1/16") Plane back at an angle till close to your lines, use a long sanding bar to finish getting closer. do this top and bottom and leave your line that we drew in the center for the hinges to refer to...This method makes a free travel surface with out binding..

Terry Bolin 02-20-2011 06:45 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Worked on the side air vents today after a friend and I worked on his pattern plane...it's a good building season! ... you might want to do this too.. I dont really like the plastic parts of a plane to sit on top of the wood... They look better smooth.. I first did this on my B-25 radiator vents...I started by doing the lay out with a ever-sharp, make sure both sides match from the top..Cut out all the way through the sheeting as needed for the vent to drop in..Next trace around the plastic vent on the fuse sides, make sure it's level* Take your time on this next part..Thin out the side sheeting to allow the plastic vents to fit flat with the side sheeting. If you do thin all the way through, you can glue 1/16 on the back side of your fus sides...Next picture shows the vent glued in place.. I roughed up the back side of the vents with a barrel sander and used medium CA to attach it to the thinned planking..Next if you have any thin fill to do around the edges, I like epoxy and micro ballons for the blending and filling.. Last picture is the finished result... It will look much better than glued on top if you want to give up your afternoon to do this step...Hope this helps! Terry

Terry Bolin 02-20-2011 07:03 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Goran, all the rear stringer stopped at 5D (Behind the wing) you wont add any of the forward stringers untill the project is almost done and building the belly pan for the wing..Hope this helps! Thanks for writing!

Goran619 02-21-2011 03:36 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Terry on the intercooler air exits did you not have to cut the main stringer? did you just shave off the material needed to get it to fit?

Terry Bolin 02-21-2011 07:14 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Goran, you cut the main side stringers before you put on the lower sheeting and then add a doubler to reinforce the striger you just cut.. Match up your cooler exits for the proper angles to cut the stringer... you can see how the main stringer is cut here and then just add a scrap on the back to make it stronge again!

Goran619 02-22-2011 04:21 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Yea thats what i ended up doing, looking at your pictures it was kinda hard to see that so i though you left the alone but i found the brace after looking at the pictures more and more. Thanks for the help.

Terry Bolin 02-25-2011 08:12 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Sorry for the lull, I have tried to do something every nite but didn't have a lot to show for the time...it's getting to the slow progress part that makes a big differance in the finished product....First I wanted to clean up the landing gear look on the bottom so,: Take a pin, find the front and back edge of the main gear block, pencil mark just ahead of those edges so that the sheeting is still sitting on gear block both front and rear after cut out..draw your cut line ( remember to leave a little sheeting sitting on top of the block)......cut out the sheeting and remove, wick some thin CA under the sheeting where it contacts the gear blocks to hold it down and make the sheeting strong...Now cut a plywood cover the same size as the hole you just made, mark 4 holes with a T pin in the plywood cover, place on the gear block and drill through the plywood and the gear block......NOT THROUGH the top sheeting!....enlarge your holes in the plywood cover and mount as shown,,, this can be covered or painted with the plane for a cleaner look! Never use phillips or slot screws for anything...use allen head screws...you wont slip off of these and gouge your finish....Good luck!
Terry

Terry Bolin 02-25-2011 08:54 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Now we are working on the cowling blocks and rings! Dont glue your paper ring templates to the wood,, lay them on the wood, punch through the paper with a Tee pin to mark the shape of each part, punch about 1/4" apart and at every corner turn. This saves your patterns for next time too.. Now draw each part with a pencil where the pin marks are. When it comes time to cut these out..Use a band saw, hobby dremel saw or if you have to use a hand saw, put a piece of plywood next to your blade to keep it vertical..On the curved cuts, if using a hobby knife, make several shallow cut to get through, this way the wood wont split and the cuts will be square too...
2. glue together the cowl mounting blocks,, make sure to glue the block to the right edge of each plywood side...(look at the plans close) Use 30 minute or slower epoxy for this job, clamp and dry for a while.
3. lay all the loose parts out on the firewall to get things positioned right, work with the balsa ring to get a good fit. Remove the balsa and mark the location for each cowl hardwood blocks with a pen... the plans show to glue these block even with the edge of the plywood firewall (not the sheeting) BUT, move them in 1/32" more to cut down on the sanding to fit the cowl later.
4. I used thick CA to attach the cowl blocks to the firewall for now.. After they dry, come back and push a sharp pin or scribe as seen here to make 4 small holes in the firewall along the inside edge of each plywood side for the cowl mountings..These holes will give the epoxy a better bite to hold the virbrating cowl..Now mix some 30 minute epoxy (I also added some milled fiberglass in ) take a pocket screw driver and rub the glue on the inside edges of the plywood mounts and firewall contact points. This will hold everything good and tight!
5. align cowl when all is dry, the cowl does not push back over the fuse sheeting,,,,it sits ahead of the firewall by and 1/8 or so. drill pilot holes for allen head screws
6. remove the cowl, sand each spot on the inside where the pilot holes are. Next push a pin through the center of each of the 6 plywood disc that are going to be used to renforce the plastic cowl screw holes, place the plywood disc in the cowl and hold them in place with the Tee pins through the pilot holes. This centers each wood disc and keeps your fingers away from the CA glue. Add 4 small drops of CA+ glue to each disc, and push it up using the pin as a guide to center them on your pilot hole..remove the pins, add a few drops of thin CA to each disc, wipe away extra with paper towel and you are done! I tapered the edges of each disc to make it easier to put the cowl on...I drilled the cowling holes larger after it was dry ..... Hope the picture explain better.....good luck!

Terry Bolin 02-25-2011 09:06 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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you may have to sand the face of each of the plywood cowl mounts to be happy with how the cowl fits the fus.. Before you add the balsa ring back on, take a minute and sand all the edges of the cowling blocks to make them look nice...its harder after the balsa ring goes back on... More later this weekend! get to building!
Here's a little cutie I scratch built in Dec...Makes a great trainer...or calm day fun plane! (Sig seniorita) Had one for 14 years and gave it away to a great friend...Then wanted another one!

Terry Bolin 02-25-2011 09:08 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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I will put pictures of the finished cowl here, but for now I wanted to show that you may have to bevel the wood disc in the cowl to get a flat fit.. I also sanded the wood block that make up the cowling mounts to keep the cowling to its original shape..do not distort the shape..

Boomerang1 02-25-2011 10:07 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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New to the thread & very interesting!

Would you believe mine is now 13 years old & still going strong?
It was built as a kit review for a local magazine.

It's a pity your cowl is finished, I was disappointed with the idea of screws through the cowl so I modified that part of the build. - John.

Terry Bolin 02-25-2011 10:25 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Nice Pictures, Thanks for posting.. Looks like a 2 stroke motor in yours ..Is this the same kit just older??? What did yours end up weighing??? Do you have any pics of the cowl attachment??? Thanks for joining! Terry B.

Boomerang1 02-25-2011 10:40 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Hi Terry, yes it's a Magnum 108 2 stroke. I ended up making my own muffler which sits under the tank. I left that area open to the cowl & took advantage of the extra air outlets there. I did the review just after the Gold edition kit was released, it's the same kit as yours.

It weighs nearly 12 pounds but I put every possible extra on it - 2 aileron servos, retracts, inner gear doors, tank drop, wing pylons, dummy engine kit, retractable tail wheel, full cockpit kit with pilot plus a lot of the vents & scoops that Top Flite leave out of the kit.

I've included the pics of the cowl attachment, the cowl is a glass replacement I made after breaking the original plastic one.

The cowl has balsa triangle strips in it which slide over the plywood plate attached to the engine mount. The cowl is held on by two allen head screws which hide between the cylinders. - John.

Terry Bolin 02-26-2011 07:22 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Well done John, good design on the Cowl with the triangle and mounting screws....That's quite a bit of work to mold your own cowl... Good job! Thanks for the pictures and post... Keep 'em coming. We all get something from other modelers and their planes! Have a great day!
Terry

Boomerang1 02-26-2011 01:15 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Don't forget to put a baffle plate in your cowl. Take a look at mine again.
You only want the incoming air to flow only over your engine, not everywhere else.
I've only got the small slot directly in front of the engine's cylinder plus a couple
of small ply pieces to force the air through the cylinder's fins.

The other problem is the air out of the cowl. The outlet area of the cowl is much smaller than the big hole at the front so if you leave the front fully open the air will just waft around & will not be able to escape properly. To make things worse the hot engine will make the air expand so there's even more air to deal with.

Restricting the air into the cowl to exactly where you need it plus cutting the volume of air down will allow the cowl to work properly.
Air control & baffling is normal practice in full size, air cooled aircraft (and rear engined VW's!) - John.

Terry Bolin 02-26-2011 05:43 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
John, thanks for the tips,, All good information..I have not started planning the cooling yet so this will help//...Thanks for posting!
Terry

Terry Bolin 02-27-2011 07:31 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Well, this weekend Again quite a bit of finish sanding and some fitting of the scale cockpit....First I had to notch the head/back rest to clear the stringers and then notch the floor to fit flat by the center bulkhead.. ( Notice I put a balsa floor for the cockpit floor to glue to..Makes things sturdy) Next I made a balsa backing for the intrument panel..it will give you more to glue to also. The side panels needed two 1/4 balsa scraps on the bulkhead to keep them vertial.. lastly, you notch the side panels to fit between the instrument panel and the back plate..push the back edge of the side panels in last. Cut everything slow to avoid mistakes.. I pre-painted my stuff green with testors spray and then added the details..Sanded the floor to show scuff marks from the rudder pedals...This part took some time but will add alot of fun to your finished plane...looks way cool!

Terry Bolin 02-28-2011 08:09 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Next I worked on the canopy install. When I paint a model base coat clear coat, I mold the canopy into the fus with a fillet and then paint the fillet to match and it makes a very clean canopy look but since I am going to cover this plane with film, I needed a better way to install the canopy rather than just stuck on top of the film with glue! Plus, just being glued on can come loose easy. Carefully cut out your canopy on the factory scribe lines with cruved sissors and sand the edges. .. I glued on the rear side fairings behind the canopy..Tape the canopy in place to get the angle right and placement right for each side. (Which the instructions do not explain very well) Then I scribe the angle of the fairing onto the canopy and carefully cut off the excess. This allows the rear of the canopy to sit down in front of the fairing and fit flush. ( I added a balsa "Eyelash" For the rear edge to sit on). Next I traced the canopy shape to the top of the fus down the sides and front. Make a 1/8" wide balsa strip to fit down the side of the canopy bottom edge line you just drew. (this will look like metal glass trim when finished) Bevel the lower edge of your balsa stip. These stips on the sides will give the canopy something to sit on and have a additional surface to glue to. When all finished ( And I will show picture at that point), You can glue the canopy in place and iron a 1/4" wind stip of monokote or other film on the balsa strip we just made and caonpy edge to seal it down. Makes a real clean finished product. Hope this works for you too.

Terry Bolin 03-04-2011 05:57 AM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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I noticed in the manual TF recommends you brace the stringer cut outs on the fus for the side vents with scrap balsa stringer material, then on the plans they are showing scrap plywood..Plywood is the better choice if you have not already done this step...either is ok..Make sure and space the new brace back with a additional layer of 1/4" square balsa on the back side of the center stringer to make room available for the plastic vent to recess in deep enough..

raptureboy 03-04-2011 02:20 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
Nice looking Stearman there in the background. What brand is it? I haven't done much on my 47 lately, had to put new bearings in an engine and last weekend I went to th WRAM show in NY and drooled alot at all the new planes I can't afford. I did get a new GP Stearman ARF for Christmas though:D

Terry Bolin 03-05-2011 05:33 PM

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 
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Hi guy, That Stearman in my picture started life as a Great planes ARF.. My first Arf ever (after 35 years at that time) I stripped it down to the bones, (My wife said: Only you !) I made some corrections on the frame and glue joints then covered it to my preferances.... 2 months of effort (Hobby time.. a little when I could) It has been a absolute pleasure to fly! I love that plane. It has a magnum 120 4 stroke that smokes a little (Cause I add Castor oil to the mix) and the plane looks magical in the air.. Beautiful comming in for a landing..I have had it since 2005.... You said you got the same plane... Leave it in the box and get your P-47 project going again.. I'll help you on line... You'll be glad it is done when finished! I like one project at a time for me..Moves faster..The picture of the yellow Stearman was taken by Keith Spriggs of Cherokee KS.. The blue and yellow Stearman below was my Scratch build project last winter.... Stay in touch...thanks for writing!
Terry B.


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