RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Hey there everyone, sorry I haven't posted any progress in a while but I haven't worked on my model in about a week or so. Well I got the fuselage done for the most part did some finishing work to it but then I had to put it away for the night. Yesterday I started it again and I just moved on to the wing section, I got the right wing just about done, its all framed up I drew out the flap and aileron skins last night then my wife want to play video games with me so I had to call it a night Did make a few mistakes, the biggest one was I prematurly glued W1 on the the upper main spar and the aft inner spar, later I realized this wasnt this wasnt supposed to happen yet [:o], ended up having to cut the rib out. I did decide to go with the fixed landing gear that came with the kit as it saves me $300 that I can use towards another project I'm saving up to get next winter. Well I'm going to go cut out my skins and finish the right wing and then start the left.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran, that is easy to do..glue the #1 rib when setting all the others.. Did you find their Dihedral gauge yet.. Kinda confusing but the bottom part of the rib sits on the drawn rib shown on the plans then there is a Line drawn outside the #1 rib on the plans that your gauge lines up with.... This gives you proper angle for the top of #1 rib.. I dont think you will regret the Fixed gear since the plane will be alot lighter and fly a little better at slow speed because of the weight savings.. Plus like you said...$300 towards next years project....Mine is gonna me the P-51 Gold kit before they are discontinued too... (If they do) Keep us posted!
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Yea I figured it out wasn't to hard to see what was going on after I read it a few times. I did get the right wing done though will probably start the left tonight or maybe tomorrow not quite sure yet. Yea I could really use that $300 for my next heli that Iplan on getting next winter.... damn thing is going to cost me a small fortune. Yea i really enjoyed building the wing was really fun, think I'm also going to set it up for bomb drops since I'm not going with retracts. Man as I get closer and closer to the end the more and more I get excited. I still haven't ordered my engine yet will hopefuly be ordering that my beginning to mid april along with the servos, dummy radial engine and the bomb that goes on the belly. I want to get the 2 for the wings but they are unfortunatly discontinued and I can't seem to find it anywhere online. I will try and post some pics of my progress either tonight or tomorrow after i get home from work.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Terry,
That is a good looking P-38. Did you scrap build it? Also the yellow stearman did scratch build that like you did the other one?
-Alex

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Alex,,, the P-38 was a kit that Great planes used to offer.. It was a great flying little profile....but, As with most scale planes,,I had to keep the throttle up till right before touch down.. The wings were monokote and everything else was Lustrecote spray paints with clear coat over everything to keep decals in tack.. The yellow Stearman Started out as my first ARF and I took it apart after it arrived and reworked some things for my taste...It actually looks a little different now than in the picture shown.( I will get some current pictures with my other warbirds soon) I searched for three years for a good plan or kit for a 60-120 size Stearman with out any luck when they came out with this plane. SO, I thought, I'll give it a try since I love Great Planes kits ....Great flier and fun plane to see in the air..
ON MY P-47 this weekend, the only thing I got done was a little covering behind the cockpit side glasses and some covering in the rudder fillet area.. (That took me 4.5 hours)) I was busy helping great friends with some small projects and things with family members..We got to cover a Flying fool biplane wings and did some gearing up of a easy sport for some new fliers. all in all,,, a good weekend..I'll post more asap...Thanks to everyone for the intrest and postings! Take care!
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran, I too was not finding the drop bombs I wanted so I posted in the Scale forum and those guys really helped.. I got some from
www.Hobby_lobby.com $5.99 each due at the end of march on re-stock
But also try Hobby king .com for they had some for 9.99 with electric release.,
Best deal out there was
www.firepowerrc.com..they had tons in stock for around $5.00 each
I have two from Hobby lobby already but will be ordering some from Firepower soon..Hope this helps*
Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Hey Terry what size prop are you going with? 14x10, 15x8, 16x6, 16x8, 17.6, 18x6 these are the recommended sizes for the engine I'm throwing in. I'm thinking that i should probably go with either the 16x6 or 16x8. Or do you know where 1 could get a 4 blade prop that would work for this plane?

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran, I would not fly with a 4 blade anytime..(use 4 blades for display only) 2 blades make the best torque and HP...Rule of thumb is 1" shorter for a 3 blade but again the best performance will be a two blade....We had a flier who lost a B-25 because the motors were using 3 blades for looks and motors would not wind up...motors were lugging, too much prop.... (What motor are you going with?) I have a 120 on my Stearman and a APC 16X6 works the best. I tried two other brands of 16X6 and they did not fly as well plus,, The APC is not bad priced..APC has a great prop and it was notiably better! Check your owner's Manual for the motor you plan to use, and they will recommend a Break-in Prop and that is a good one to start with...If the motor is brand new, Make sure and do quite a bit of run in with motor set to rich on the ground to help it break in..(tie the plane off) I would go with 4 or 5 tanks of fuel on the ground peroid on a new motor... Make sure it is not on the lean side when you do get ready to fly this bird..Set it and then raise the nose of the plane straight up.....motor should not sag (Loose RPM) and it would be best for it to pick up a little RPM when you raise the nose...Hold the nose up for 30 seconds or so to be sure....If you are not sure by sound, Set the motor after it is broke in to the highest RPM needle setting,wide open on the ground then back the needle valve off 3-400 RPM,,,Raise the nose to test when you are happy. Motor will lean out a tad when flying because of air flow. you should see a little smoke coming out the exhaust at wide open throttle.. When in the air,,watch for a little trail of smoke when the plane comes by..(Have a helper watch for this since you are flying) a little rich is safer than lean...(Lean settings cause flame out and dead stick....not good) On an open nose plane you can set the high RPM setting at wide open, pinch the fuel line and RPM should pick up after a second of pinch...if it dies right off...it's too lean......if it is slow to pick up rpm (4 seconds or so) Motor is too rich.. use all these methods until you are happy with the needle setting...Besides Battery failure...motor flame outs claim the most crashes...You;ll be happy with the prop when the motor is quick to accelerate when you hit the throttle on the ground and practice taxi runs....Hope this helps...its alot of info at once...Stay in touch! Keep building..,I'll post pictures soon..Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I am putting a DLE 20 in my bird, I'm not to worried out about being able to get enough power out of my engine even if i flew with a 4 blade prop since everyone says it will be slightly over powered for the plane to begin with. According to DLE there is no suggested break in prop so I will just use the same prop I will be flying her with. I am thinking about going with a 16x6 master airscrew prop one of the black ones. Is 16" prop close to the proper size for this plane scale wise? I would like to get close in the size.</p>

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Yep... 16" will be good....Take care and keep us posted....

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I picked up a Top Flite Gold Edition P-47 Razorback kit for $50. The plans, 2 parts sheets and the left and right cowl were missing. The tail feathers had been built and sanded. I purchased the missing items from Top Flite for around $75 including shipping. Here is my progess so far. I have started to sheet the upper fuselage half and will post pics of my progress. This is my first RC kit build. I have flown plenty of ARFs and built plenty of the Sterling, Comet and Guillows kits. The Top Flite kit has been pretty easy and straight forward so far. I am pretty amped about building this kit and seeing her fly when done.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Looks great... please post pics and keep us up to date..... It's gonna be good!
Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Terry,
The full scale strearman is that yours? My grampa has a Ryan PT-22 that He restored. If the stearman is yours did you restore it?
-Alex

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Alex, That Stearman was at the one and only Branson Mo. air-show for their grand opening?? (GREAT Airshow) Me and good friend went for the day to watch and of coarse I had to get pictures of the Planes....Future projects you know! Myself and a good friend did restore two full size Cubs years ago...one was lost when rented out to another pilot (yep, he can fly a tail dragger.....NOT) and the last one was sold when My good friend passed away... I didn;t own either just enjoyed working on 'em..I do have the spinner off the last one that is bent up from hitting a building after the Cub came loose from the tiedown...I wasn't there....just got in on the aftermath...fun stories! Back to building! Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Thanks...I will post pics of my progress.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Sorry guys its been a while sinceI posted any pics, but I have only had time to work on it on the weekends. Well last saturday/sunday I got the right wing built, then this morning I built the left wing and then epoxied the 2 halves together.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran, you sure are building fast....keep it going! I did some covering this weekend and will post pics soon but mostly I worked outside and helped friends with stuff...(Mowers, planes, So on but I will move along soon) Keep 'em going! We ( a group of fliers) are going to start a group building sesion soon... three Tiger 2's, two senioritas and two or three pete-n-pokes! Ihope to post those as we go along...any one intrested in those????
Terry B.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well over the weekend I ordered almost everything up, minus the fiberglass, resin, paint, and the prop hub. I did go with the DLE 20, I'm excited about it this will be my first gas engine. I went with 6 futaba S3004 I would think they should hold up just fine since I won't be doing any hard flying with it maybe a few loops and rolls but thats about it.  Should be recieving all of it around wednesday or thursday I won't be working on it anytime this week I want to put the flap servos and aileron servo in before i do the sheeting.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, I have had a few hoops to jump through lately but I am back on the p-47 for a day or so.. I wanted to join the elevator halves with the metal horn supplied in the kit.. This is sometimes a hard thing to get right where it is straight and level on both sides so here are a couple of hints.. First picture I drill a 1/16 " pilot hole where the horn enters the elevator. This make it alot easier to drill the larger 1/8 hole in the center later. Next, so that the hole is 90 deg with LE on the elevator, make your self a 90 deg. guide out of tape on your table top edge..Line the elevator up on this tape...and use the other leg of the tape to guide your bit in.. By doing so you have a visual reference for the drill bit and you can use your table top to make the bit enter level.. ( I propped up the trailing edge since the elevators are tapered) Now the rod has to be flush with the leading edge so I cut a "V" groove in the balsa with a knife followed up with the 1/8" drill bit being layed in the V slot to make the groove clean and consistant..Just lay the bit in there and let it gently remove the balsa needed to be flush when rod is in place..Next put your elevators on the Stab and mark the actual entry point for the other side of the horn rod..By doing it this way,,, the width of the elevators and Stab match excactly...Last, check the strainghtness with a level or metal straight edge.. bend horn wire with pliers if needed.. Make the two halves lay flat on the table so the plane will not cork screw out of a loop when flying! Take your time and work this to perfect.. it will pay off for ya later!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, finally I get to waist some covering...The prep work is done, the plane has been block sanded several times and finish sanded with 600 then 1000 grit black paper..I vacuum the wood off and brush it with a detail brush to prep the area. finally I use a tac cloth right before covering goes on..
I put down some 1/4-5/16" wide covering strips in the fillet areas to get ready for the surface covering.. Work with low heat and DO NOT PRESS DOWN with your trim iron.. The heat is what lays the covering down not the hard pressure you apply to your nicely sanded wood...Move the iron real slow and let the wood take on some heat to attach the covering.. My favorite Iron peroid is the Coverite Trim iron with a Top Flight flat shoe in it to apply covering... I seldon use the larger monokote Iron that most people have.. The trim iron lets you focus on little areas at a time..Be aware of how flat you are letting the shoe lay on the wood.. This is harder to do than most people think...keep it flat to avoid wood dings! After the fillet cover is in, Heated and pulled into the raidus, use a piece of paper and make your self a templete for the fin covering.. I do this so that the seam can be the right angle against the radus.( Right down in the corner where the flat wood starts to meet your fillet) this hides the seam/edge..Work slow with and pull it tight as you go to help keep wrinkles out later on..I round the edges of the fillet covers because it seems to be harder to see than Square corners on the covering when finished.. I got the actual Rudder all finished up Red-white and Blue...This seem to take up the whole after noon..Last...is the finished covering for the fin! Good luck and practice on the bottom first!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, I got some covering done this day.. I've been thinking about the cleanest way to cover this fus and it look good.. I came up with "Panel Covering" method...Larger sections and fewer seams...I make paper templets, make my adjustments to the papers and then tranfer that to the covering... I used tape to hold the Covering in place until I get it Tacked and sealed around all four edges.. (I use alot of masking tape when building) I then poked small holes in the 4 corners for air to escape when I heated the loose center covering with a Tower heat gun...Rub it down with a "Hot Glove" This worked very well with no dings and iron marks in the covering so far....Took all day but the finsihed product is well worth the time now...Remeber, We are going to enjoy these planes for years so invest your best effort ....Good luck!
Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I plan to spray the cowl and fus side vents when plane is almost done with Lustrecote....

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Looks great, what are you using for covering.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Since 1972 I had been using monokote, the p-38 pictured in an eariler post and all planes posted were done in monokote finsih but this plane , (P-47) being silver (Silver monokote was the hardest I ever applied) I decieded to go with ultrakote silver. All other colors will be monokote since I is what I keep mostly.. The only color I have ever had trouble with in monokote was the silver and it just would not stick well or shrink to suite me.. Ultrakote does not seem to be as thick but is sure a fine product.. Wish they had a color chart like monokote offers. Cutting the fus covering in large panels, ( bottom first, sides and then top, rear to front) sure gave a lot fewer seams and a much cleaner look. I have always just cut the needed width of covering off the roll and applied to what ever I was working on, then trimmed it off on the plane. But by making a paper template first, your seams are straight line and where you wish them to be. usually on a radius and this makes them harder to see.. I will also hid them with a panel line later on.. Hope this helps your model come out better toooooo.
Terry

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well, the build still looks great. I have a sheeted practice wing and I will give the Monokote Silver a try to see how bad it is.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I also plan on building a couple of future planes that are going to be covered with Aluminum Monokote, so I wanted to practice before messing up my builds. Please excuse me, I don't mean to hijack your wonderful build. But here is my practice plane covered with Aluminum Monokote. I sheeted one wing and the Monokote went on pretty easy. I put it on tight, leaving a couple of ends open for air to escape, then hit it with the hot gun and follow it up with my "bunny glove". I just bought the House of Balsa Mustang and P47, both will be done with Aluminium Monokote. Also want to use silver on my Easy Built Beaver. I still have to buy the Top Flite Kits, my fear is that TF will stop making them in favor of the ARF's. They look like great builds and fun flyers. Next thing to practice is making a camo scheme with Monokote.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I always wondered how the Alum. Monokote would do....looks like yours went on just fine! Good job..Please keep us posted..I too plan to keep using TF kits.,.. I dont want to loose the kits either!
What plane are you covering there?

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well I got some covering done today...The fus was gonna be the hardest part of the plane so I started there... I used a paper towel under my Trim iron to keep the scratches off the razor back area since it will need to have iron contact on every inch...Worked very well. I very rarely use anything but a trim iron. It small enough to control the covering well. I got away with no scratches so far.. first I iron on the black in front of the pilot and then left a bare balsa space for epoxy to glue the canopy on. The green on the top is done in three sheets.. Left and right rear then one sheet in front of the cockpit.. take your time here to avoid wrinkles ...after you get the film ironed on over the top of the spine.. Fold the covering back and rub it down for a crisp crease you can gut with a FRESH razor blade. By having a very straight cut just after the top edge, when you iron it down... it is almost invisable... A ragged cut just screams out! Again, let the heat of the iron do the work, not the pressure you apply denting your wood. I sanded the edge of the canopy where it contacts the bare balsa space.. Applied 30 minute epoxy and set into place with masking tape.. After it dries you can cut 3/8" iron on film strips and iron half the stip on the canopy and then the other on the fus for a very slick finished look on the canopy.. I finsihed with using 1/8" stips of monokote to make the canopy frame...Looks alot better for me than trying to paint them on....Hope you can use some of this and good luck! Please post what you do for your P-47..
Have a great week....Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Terry,

The P-47 really looks good! I have a building table set up and have been inspired to start mine... :D

This kit was given to me, and after taking inventory of the parts I ended up ordering a few things from T/F. So with a complete kit (the plans are a little torn and shabby and I also had to download the instruction manual) I'm going to start with the fuselage.

Wish me luck! ;)

Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

She is looking great, can't wait to buy my kits. The kit you see in the picture is just a practice model. I use it to test covering and building techniques so I don't ruin the real model.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Ben, It's a great kit to build and everything I read says the plane is a pleasant flier to boot.. You will enjoy the quality of the kit and engineering done on the parts.. Makes for a great finished product... Post picts as you go to let us know how it looks for you.. Being a round fus,,, have lots of good block sanders to smooth out the joints.. my favorite block sander is a 1"x3" with 280 glued to it.... Lets me get into small areas with out finger marks in the wood... Have a good week everyone!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well I haven't had much time to work on my P-47 in the last week or so but I did get about 2 hours to play with it tonight. I got the top side of the wing finished and ready for sheeting. I had to install the pieces around W7 in order to attach the pylons to the wings, the aileron block installed and added the 1/16th pieces around the aileron control rods. I also got my engine in today I'm so excited about it, I am waiting for another package of stuff I forgot to initially order which should be in on wednesday or thursday. I will probably start the break in on the engine this weekend hopefully. I also got the engine mount that came with the kit cut up and mounted to the engine, i just need to get a protractor so i can find where my new mounting holes will be on the fire wall since i will be mounting this engine inverted and not at an angle like the kit was designed. I also had to do some modifications to the dowels that slide into the fuse since the original holes were a little off and would not slide into F2, is it worth picking up an incidence meter or should I be fine without one? Hopefully this weekend i should get some time to work on it and I will post pics at that time when I get the wing completly sheeted and the belly pan made and cut out.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran, if the wing fits nicely into the plywood saddles then the wing incidence will be fine...you may need to oval the holes in the plywood to make things line up then put a plywood "Washer" on the back side of the plywood bulkhead to make things tight again after you get everything corrected. Take some time to line it up when drilling for the wing bolts... If you every do buy a incidence meter, buy only the lazer meter from Greatplanes...it is sensitive and very accurate...dont get in a hurry...do good work and keep us posted...Terry

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Yea thats what I was kind of thinking, if the wing sits flush with the saddle I should be fine. I'm trying to get this plane finished or at least glassed my the beginning of may before I have to go to SD for 2 weeks for my yearly Annual Training.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Terry,
I hope to get some pics posted pretty soon. I've got the fuse and stab parts punched out and bagged, so hopefully I'll get some CA applied to balsa in the next few evenings! I'll definitely keep a sanding block handy, I'd really like to get a clean sheeting job done on this plane.

Goran,
Is the engine you are waiting for the DLE-20? Would love to see some pics when you get it mounted.

Build well guys,
Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

You will be able to tell a differance in the finished product if you will sand alittle on your wing sheeting seams before you apply them to the wing.. Lay them flat on your building table and sand the glue seams on top side only... When you are getting close to the covering stage.. Use some 1000 Grit wet/dry paper and go over the whole plane, vacuum and tack the wood.. The covering will look smooth like it is when it still on the roll.... Keep us posted. Terry B

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

I got a chance to get going today and built up the horizontal stabilizer and elevators. I used a piece of masking tape when I beveled the elevator skins to get a good sharp sanding line. So far everything is going together very nicely.

I was wondering how you guys felt about using separate servos for each aileron instead of using the bellcrank, and if anyone has done this modification.

Build well!
Ben

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Well today I was able to finish sheeting the wing and the flaps cut out and formed, the left side has been drilled and the hinges have been fitted and ready for glassing. Tomorrow I will be finishing the right flap along with the ailerons and possible get the belly pan made. Today I was also able to get the engine mounted to the frame and bolted to the firewall. In order to achieve the 6 1/4" that the book calls for I will have to add about 1/2" of washers for a spacer between each corner of the mount. I would do it with drilling the holes farther on the mount however that will bring itto about 1/4" from the end of the mount and I don't think it will be strong enough. Plus should help with balancing since most of the things I've read say this ends up being tail heavey when finished. In order to get the GP mount that came with the kit to work with the DLE 20 I had to cut off the bridge between each half of the mount and then cut off the ends to make the ears to bolt the mount to the firewall. You can see this in picture 4. The plane is upside down so the engine is mounted so the cylinder is down instead of off to the side like the directions tell you to mount it. Tomorrow Iwill will epoxy the firewall on and mount the engine with the prop and the prop nut and Iwill post pics of that when Iget it mounted.

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

Goran,
That engine looks sweet on there!

RE: Topflite Gold kit P-47
 

If your going to go with this engine, bolt the engine about 5 3/4" from the base of the engine mount to the base of the prop and then add 1/2" spacer of some sorts between the mount and the firewall to achieve the proper 6 1/4". Doing this you will need to go down to your local hardware store and pick up either 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" bolts to bolt the mount to the firewall instead of the supplied 1" bolts. I will post pics of this tomorrow when I get it all assembled with the prop and the prop nut.you will also need the folowing.
Prop nut
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&amp;I=LXCRT7
Jam nut to mount the prop nut to
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&amp;I=LXKE13
Also you will also want to put a ball link on the throttle lever
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&amp;I=LXYCH4