RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

After all the talk about rib stitching I did some more searching and found some pics from my build of the 33% Cub showing the rib stitching and tapes. I was working under a deadline to get the Cub flown for a review and thouhgt I would save some time and cover the plane with Cub Yellow Solartex. It didn't save me much time at all. The Solartex was way too transparent for my taste. I wound up spraying 3 coats of color matched latex paint over the entire plane after the rib stitching and tapes were applied.

For those who have not visited CubMan's web sire it is a must see for any Cub builder. [link=http://www.thecubden.org/]Cub Den[/link]

Here are a few pics from my Cub build. You can see the tapes applied to the fuse as well as over the ribs and tail surfaces. The panel was made from 1/8" ply and instruments from InZpan.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Allow me to do something I RARELY do! I want to whole-heartedly add my recommendations to, and commendations of, the Cub Den. Somebody 'round THAT shop KNOWS his stuff!
#96
:O)
(RD2, in real life.)

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

piper cub logo on instruments in dashboard, - best i have ever seen. Christmas is coming up and I have been really good!

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Anthony,
Do you still use the same recipe for mixing the latex paint that you used on the clipped-wing cub build ?
 
Thanks, R.L.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

R.L.
The paint used on my Red and White Clipped wing was Behr Semi-Gloss Latex. The red color was called Grenadine. It was from a color chip in Home Depot where I had the paint mixed. I just went and checked and the paint can has been discarded that had the remaining paint from the build. I usually save the mix sticker but since the plane was lost I pitched it. It was a good looking and flying plane and I do miss it:(.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Cub Man,
I noticed that brother # 26 & # 31 appear to be the same guy. If so I volunteer to fall in the # 31 spot to keep the remaining numbers correct.
If this is not kosher  just tack me on to the bottom of the list.
R.L.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Just thought I would post my project. Oh Brother, can you spare a clamp?

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Looks like an AMR 33% Cub? How are you liking the build?
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

I like your clamps. Where do you get them? All I have that small are clothes pins.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Those type clamp sare available at any home improvement store, most hobby stores, many craft stores, tool supply stores. Online as well from tower hobbies, micro mark, lee valley tools.Etc, etc, etc.Ya just gotta look.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

I got mine at Harbor Freight, they have 22 in a tube for $4.99. It is item 2286. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_17955.jpg

I got 4 tubes of them

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

So this is a fuel proof paint in your experience?

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Gas not glow.
If you go glow you will have to clear coat as I did with Nelson's Hobby Specialties clear. I now fly only gas and the latex holds up well to gas.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

It is the AMR kit, I having fun with it. I admit that I am a s-l-o-w builder. My buddy came over and looked it over and ordered one also. I told him OK, just do my color scheme. I'm now setting up the engine. I'm using a DLE 55. I'm going with a second firewall. The second will hold the engine, do to the stand offs, I found some countersunk 5 mm bolts that will go into the 2nd firewall, then bolt it to the first with 1/4-20 cap screws with blind nuts. That way I can remove the engine without having to get to the backside of the firewall and unbolt the motor.
Later,
Randy

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

You will love how the plane fly's.
I noticed you have the cardboard tube for the tail servo leads attached to the bottom of the fuse top formers. Is this in the manual or just a preference change by you? The reason I am asking is I built one of the 1st kits and the manual had the tube mounted in the bottom of the fuse and I moved it to the top to allow more room for the rudder pull/pull and suggested this change to AMR.
All in all it was an excellent build and it is rock solid in the air.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Anthony, due to the expence of stits over latex. And the limited color selection. Help me out with the latex. I know it has to be thinned. Once that has been established, does it spray well and how is the coverage. I know you have used MEK based, how does the finish compare?
The only reason I ask is there is two guy's at my field that uses latex and their finish look's really (in place of a bad word) thick.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

I talked to you in the spring, AMR still wants it on the bottom, I took your advice and moved it to the top. I also reinforced the tail area. I can post a better picture if you want to see it. I'm planning to use Hitec HS-645 thru out. I see they want a 300 oz monster for the rudder. Did you do that or go with a smaller servo for the rudder?
Thanks,
Randy

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Robert,
I have painted several planes with Latex and have not had any issues. I thin it 30-40% with cheap blue windshield washer fluid and add an ounce of Floetrol to each qt. of mix. Different colors will require a different thinning ratio. It usually takes 3-4 thin coats of paint for coverage. The only plane I did not use latex on was my 25% Waco and it was painted with Krylon spray paint. The Krylon is a bit more glossy than the latex.

Randy,
Sorry I didn't make the connection. I used a 645 on the rudder and there are no issues. The springs for the tail wheel take all the load off of the servo from the tail wheel and the surface area of the rudder does not require that much torque especially from a full wing Cub.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Thank's Anthony.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

<span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS">so i'm curious... i'm looking on robart's site at the landing gear they have for the 1/5 scale cub, and it says the gear will not fit the 90" GP cub kit or the Siganniversary 1/5 scale kit. i'm pretty sure i've seen the gear on theSig kit before... am i seeing things? they state the gear is for up to a 5 1/8" wide fuselage. i'm looking to get the gear for my GP .40 size kit, afteri measure it and it's okay, but i'm also looking at maybe selling it and getting the Siganniversarykit, since the more i look, i like it better and wish i would have in the first place. will the robart gear fit on the anniversary kit from Sig? what's the purpose of getting a kit with all that detail and the door and window opening and using wire for the landing gear?</span>

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Crash, I think you are confusing kits.
The Goldberg is advertised at the anniversary kit. The Sig 1/5 is scale and I would think the Robart 1/5 scale gear would fit. The Goldberg Anniversary Cub is far from scale. I used the Robart 1/4 gear on my Sig 1/4 Cub and they fit great and performed very well.

Mind you I have no experience with the Sig 1/5 kit so maybe some who has built this combination will step in and report on it.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

I'm using the Robart 1/5 scale gear on my Sig 1/5 scale Cub. You can see them on post 189.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Waconut

Sig does make a Cub Golden Anniversary kit.

http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGRC82.html

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Just ordered my gear yesterday from the "Cub Nut". Got an e-mail today saying it would be about 10 days to two weeks. He'll make to to fit the width of your fuse.

RE: ***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
 

Count me in. I have an old H9 40 Cub and a Goldberg 40th that I resurrected from the trash.