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FlyerInOKC 09-09-2015 01:05 PM

Except Falcon doesn't list a 14X4 in that prop!

smkrcflyer 09-09-2015 01:09 PM

You can get a 14x5 Xoar WW1 prop from VV for $10.20.

http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/x...ller-14x5.html

N1EDM 09-09-2015 01:14 PM

John_M_ Thanks for that link... the 'brass' on the blade tips gave me an idea. I'm going to do that to my Xoar.

There are so many props out there, it's hard to get a handle on what is a scale prop tip, and what isn't. But that 'plated' effect is too good to pass up. I'm going to do that tonight.

Bob

I_Fly 09-09-2015 06:24 PM

That Zoar from Valley View seems like a good option. From what I have herd their props are good.

Sometime in the past few years I read an article about creating that look. Wish I could find it. Essentially it was a bit of sanding, some finish, mask off the area to be brass/metal, paint. Some finishing touches such as riveting and some final coating to provide a worn look.

Let us know how it turns out Bob.

Billy J 09-09-2015 07:44 PM

add me in ! 1/3 Balsa USA Super Cub / 1/4 clipped sig G23/ Dynaflight Super Cub with G 45

Thanks Billy J

John_M_ 09-09-2015 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by N1EDM (Post 12097032)
John_M_ Thanks for that link... the 'brass' on the blade tips gave me an idea. I'm going to do that to my Xoar.

There are so many props out there, it's hard to get a handle on what is a scale prop tip, and what isn't. But that 'plated' effect is too good to pass up. I'm going to do that tonight.

Bob

You can use sticky back solid brass foil, or some .006-.010 K&S brass sheet.... if you anneal the K&S sheet you can form the brass around the leading edge and tip as one piece... glue it on with some epoxy, roughing up the inside of the brass real good before of course... then to simulate the rivets, use a awl and punch small holes into the brass to form the rivet line, and then silver solder the holes in and smooth off the soft solder with some 600 wet n' dry, and a final polish of the brass, should look pretty scale... don't know if I'd run it up though, as if the brass were to throw off, not only would it hurt someone if it hit them, but the prop would be so out of balance it would shake the plane to pieces.... maybe use the thin sticky back brass foil if you plan on running it.


John M,

Cub Man 09-10-2015 07:42 AM

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Welcome Billy J

Cub Man 09-10-2015 07:44 AM

1/3 scale super cub!!!!!!!!!!!! For those who have been tracking the 1/3 scale Super Cub Plans, I will be printing the first set today. Then it will be several nights of looking to see what is missing, then they will be ready. This set will include 8 pages, 3 pages of just parts to cut.

N1EDM 09-10-2015 09:10 AM

1 Attachment(s)
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2119209Hi John_M_, The first attempt didn't come out very convincing at all. I used a thin coating of gold enamel to simulate the brass leading edge. Next time, I may add a dot of black to it to make it darker and appear more like brass. The yellow should have been painted on first, and the 'metal' wrapped around the tip better.

I had to see what would work though, and to learn from my mistakes. It'll look better than an ordinary plain prop. Now to re-balance it.

Bob

FlyerInOKC 09-10-2015 09:55 AM

It does add something to the look, I like it!

N1EDM 09-10-2015 12:41 PM

Thanks, Flyer, but of course it can be done better. I will try another prop on another plane as an experiment. I'll share the results here. I did the right things, I think, but not in the right order. It didn't take long to do, at all. Waiting for the paint to dry takes the longest.

Bob

acdii 09-10-2015 05:15 PM

Careful with Falcon props, the CF ones have fragile tips. One of our members flew a plane with one on and came in a little low and clipped some tall grass at the edge of the runway and shattered both tips.

dj9124 09-10-2015 09:30 PM

Count me in, building a Sig 1/4 scale

RagwingFan 10-13-2015 08:31 AM

Count me in as well.

15 yr hiatus driven by other priorities. built several Cubs over the years. Goldbergs, Goldbergs on floats with 70 OS FS, GP 40 Clipped with OS 61 SF, GP 60 with OS 108, 1/4 Sig L-4 conversion with OS 120 FS, 1/4 Sig Clipped with Moki , 1/4 Sig E-2 conversion with Brison 2.4. working way back in hobby right now with a Goldberg Clipped in midst of covering. It will have a OS 46 FX. Should be fun re-entry

can't wait to get back in the 1/4 sc world of Cubs

newbiedc 10-16-2015 12:55 PM

Started on a Sig 1/6 Clipped Wing Cub back in the spring. I have completed the wings and the tail surfaces. With flying season winding down here in Iowa, I will be getting back to work on it real soon. However, I am in a dilemna as far as power plant. All along, I was planning on using an O.S. FS-40 in it for that scale sound & figured it would fly like a Cub. But, after flying a Sig Kobra this summer with a FS-40 and how anemic it was, I am reconsidering. The Cub will have an 11" bigger wingspan at about the same weight, 3+ lbs. What have others used in this kit? Any 4 stroke will have to have the firewall shifted; a 0.35 engine would fit but would prefer the 4 stroke sound.

braddock VC 10-16-2015 01:25 PM

Is it the OS 40 FS Surpass or the original 40 four stroke? I have this kit in my loft and will be fitting a 40 Surpass, I don't really expect any problems.
The full size had a power to weight ratio of between 1 horsepower per 10 pounds empty and 1 horse power per 16 pounds when fully laden so it was never going to be a ball of fire.
This plane uses its wing to fly unlike many overpowered models.
Just for instance I have a junior 60 which is 60 inch wingspan, flies on 3 channels and weighs about 4 pounds, it has an OS 26 FS Surpass and will happily loop,rolls very barrelly and takes a fair amount of runway to take off so I would expect the cw cub to be more lively than that on a 40 FS but nowhere near as lively as a 4 star 40 with a thunder tiger 54 4 stroke.
Does that help?
I also have the sig 1/5th scale cub that will be powered by either an os 52 surpass or a saito 62, I just haven't decided whether to build it as the clipped version or not, decisions, decisions.

newbiedc 10-16-2015 01:51 PM

I believe it is the original 40; I need to double check the box. I picked one up from ebay and one from a local engine rebuilder. And yes, this does help.

braddock VC 10-16-2015 03:09 PM

To make the most of your cub, think about the r/c installation.
For mine I bought 5 corona metal geared digital servos at 16 grammes each. they have a 2.2 Kg/cm output at 4.8 volts but I bought two 2 cell 700mAh LiFe batteries from hobbyking and the servos operate fine on those - 6.6 volts (I bought 2 because I thought that if I used them I could change the batteries mid session so I could continue flying) the batteries weigh 41 gm each so my complete flight pack will weigh about 150 gm including switch, rx and two extensions for a servo for each aileron. Had I gone the standard servo/Nimh route with 4 standard servos the weight would be in the order of 300 grammes inc rx and switch with the battery alone (AA sized) weighing 120 gm. The saving in weight is 150 grammes or nearly 5.5 ounces weight saved. In a small plane like the 1/6 th cub that is quite a bit. I will use a 4 ounce fuel tank which gives me about 15 minutes flight times in a similar plane with the 40 FS in

rafeeki 10-17-2015 05:56 AM

I have the same with an OS 56 @ forur stroke. Perfect match and I didnt have to move the firewall

newbiedc 10-18-2015 09:26 AM

Current plan was to use Hitec HS-82's for control surfaces and HS-81 for throttle; only been using 1100 mah LiFe batteries for receivers. And the engine is original, non-Surpass. Thanks for the help.

FlyerInOKC 10-19-2015 06:28 AM


Originally Posted by braddock VC (Post 12113864)
Is it the OS 40 FS Surpass or the original 40 four stroke?

What do you consider the original OS 40 FS? I had the original NIB with the exposed the pushrods. I sold to an engine collector on Vancouver Island for his collection. It was great engine but a hard landing would cause it to shed the pushrods and cam followers. A friend had the first run with the milled rocker arms (my rocker arms were cast metal) converted to spark ignition.

braddock VC 10-19-2015 06:39 AM

I thought the one with the exposed pushrods was the 60 sized, the original os 40 fs was the first with the camshaft on the front of the engine.
There were other engines with exposed pushrods, the enya springs to mind and I think one of the small saitos had exposed pushrods, too.
But there again, I'm not often right so may be wrong again....:o

FlyerInOKC 10-19-2015 11:57 AM


Originally Posted by braddock VC (Post 12114945)
I thought the one with the exposed pushrods was the 60 sized, the original os 40 fs was the first with the camshaft on the front of the engine.
There were other engines with exposed pushrods, the enya springs to mind and I think one of the small saitos had exposed pushrods, too.
But there again, I'm not often right so may be wrong again....:o

You are correct my bad, my CRS is kicking in again!

acdii 10-19-2015 06:42 PM

Saito 61 would be good for a 1/5th scale. Small with more power than the OS.

BrightGarden 10-19-2015 08:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi, where can a guy get a number?

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2126429


Here's my entry for joining the Cub brotherhood - a new-to-me Sig 1/4 Scale Clipped Wing Cub - found on Craigslist. Now, I have an unstarted beautiful kit of the same, but I couldn't pass up this "deal." I also have a Sig 1/6 Scale Cub I have been hauling around my many moves over the last 30 years - so I throw that on the pile, too.

Here's a short video of the 1/4 Scale roaring to life, again - claimed back from a path that might have ended in obscurity - the town dump?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAMc...ature=youtu.be

Cheers,
Poughkeepsie Pete


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