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-   -   Four Star 120 New build (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-building-121/11254485-four-star-120-new-build.html)

chris923 10-20-2012 02:33 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
We took the "cheeks" off.

Chris923

Super08 10-20-2012 03:56 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
I may have to make a cutout in it for the edge of the one standoff so I can get some right thrust in..

oliveDrab 10-20-2012 05:10 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here's my electric 4 Star 120. Has an AXI 5330/18, a Castle HV 120 ESC, and 10S Lipos. That's an electric 4 Star 60 below it. The 4-bladed prop is just for fun to see what it looks like. I have no intention of flying with a 4-blade prop. Would probably draw too many amps.

The plane flies well. Not fast but agile and it's fun to fly really slow.


Super08 10-23-2012 08:23 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
I like the orange and white.

My kit arrived and I pulled out the blueprints to check the fit of the DLE35RE. Just building the plane as designed it will bolt right in. The prop will be a little far out front for my taste though and with this size of engine I want a bit of right thrust. I am going to move the firewall back about 3/4" and if I move the engine to the left I can squeeze in 1/8" of right thrust. I can use the nose stiffeners no problem but it will be a bit tight and no cutting of the cheek cowls will be required as I hoped.

acdii 10-24-2012 04:53 AM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
I am not sure what I want to do just yet. I already have he DLE20 fitted to the FW on mine, and last night I learned how to fold the wings on my Deweyville.  I stripped it and put the Magnum 91 up to the P-51, and it comes up short. It looks too small to pull that plane around.  Then I put the DLE up to it and it looks just right, so the DLE20 will most likely be the engine on the P-51.  <div>
</div><div>What goes on the 4* will be a matter of what I can find and afford.  Tower doesn't have the 35 in stock yet, but the club saver looks like I can get it for $300.  It is tempting, but I already have the fuse built out. </div>

rluchetti 10-24-2012 12:37 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
I'm about complete with building the wings and I really don't care for the method of mounting the aileron servos shown on the plans since it requires a bend in the pushrods. I have a few options in mind, but if anyone has any ideas or pictures please pass them along. Thanks, Ray

brockettman 10-24-2012 04:47 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
rluchetti,

I wanted to use straight push rods on the ailerons too, so here's what I did on my plane:

Build well!

Ben

Tried uploading some pictures... but no luck right now. You can see my aileron servo mount mod, post #703, in this thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_35...29/key_/tm.htm

acdii 10-24-2012 06:50 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Mount the servo sideways on the hatch cover. Glue a couple blocks on the cover,  cut a slot for the arm to pass through. Get heavy duty long servo arms for your servos.  The hatch then screws to the hard wood rails. Dont use the covers in the kit, too thin and flex easily, use 1/16th ply instead.

brockettman 10-24-2012 07:46 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
acdii,

That is a great way to mount the servos... Replacing the hatch cover with the plywood is a great idea, that would make a much more solid mount.

I glued my servo mounting blocks to the underside of the servo hatch rails and made a couple of brackets to attach the servos to the blocks. This way I can remove the servo hatches while the servos remain in the wing, makes it a little easier to get the linkage set up. Sorry the pictures I referenced didn't show it very well. I'll try to get some others posted that show the installation better...

Build well!

Ben

rluchetti 10-25-2012 04:31 AM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Thanks guys, great suggestions. Ray

acdii 10-28-2012 07:09 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Well I got the fuse glued up, and the FW epoxied. I used Titebond this time around, since I ran out of Elmers, and tite was  on sale. It flows much smoother and seems to bond quicker, but takes longer to fully cure. Since I will be putting the tank over the CG, I dont think I will need the tank floor.

On the ARF, the top balsa sheeting cracked real easy whenever I put the plane on the stand to attach the wing, so Im lookiing at using something else, maybe plywood, and determine where to put a hatch.  Aside from that, just the servo tray, and pull/pull cable ways will need to be done.

acdii 11-02-2012 11:54 AM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Argh, I have a problem now. I noticed last night when I looked at the fuse that my landing gear block shifted while curing. Its at a slight angle up at the back now.  I have 2 choices, cut it out and makes a new one and hope I dont screw up the rest of the fuse in the process, or hit it with the belt sander so it  is flush with the fuse bottom and just shim the back side of it.  Thinking of going with the latter since the screws are steel and can pull it tight without breaking.  <div>
</div><div>I think what happened was the block moved while it was resting, I should have had it inverted after I glued it up, didnt notice that the fuse rested on the back edge of the part. </div>

Super08 11-02-2012 01:14 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Darn... At least it is fixable problem so not too bad. I wonder how it would go with your new DA? :D

acdii 11-03-2012 07:12 AM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
Hmm would be one FAST 4*, but man would it be nose heavy!

foodstick 11-03-2012 05:33 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
If the landing block causes the wheels to slightly stick out front more, it probably won't hurt.. if YOU think it makes it look funny.. go with your second idea of sanding it level with the fuse..

acdii 11-03-2012 06:12 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
1 Attachment(s)


ORIGINAL: Super08

Darn... At least it is fixable problem so not too bad. I wonder how it would go with your new DA? :D


Um, it would actually fit the firewall! The landing gear would have to be huge though with the 28" prop.


If the landing block causes the wheels to slightly stick out front more, it probably won't hurt.. if YOU think it makes it look funny.. go with your second idea of sanding it level with the fuse..
I is angled back, and I confirmed its from resting on it as the glue was setting so

TIP, dont left the fuse rest on the bottom while the glue cures on the LG block.

Going to use some body filler to level it out, and then sand if flush.



acdii 01-20-2013 07:12 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
OK Guys, finally got some pics.  The building is done, just doing the radio and engine install. The tail is done, held off on the tail braces, will see how she flies first, and determine if it actually needs them. The elevator servo is in the rear, like the ARF, and instead of a pushrod used a pull.pull for the rudder. Throttle servo is installed, and may put a choke servo in instead of the wire sticking out the side.   The Aileron servos are mounted sideways so only the arm sticks out, like I mentioned above, and attached to a cover so I can pull 4 screws to remove the servo. It is setup just like the ARF was, and I actually used the links from that plane instead of making new ones.  For the landing gear instead of painting the aluminum gear, I polished and clear coated it instead. Found 4" wheels and axles at a swap meet for $8, saved at least $10 or more.

Need to find a different muffler to see if I can get one that will fit inside the cheek without cutting. then plumb the engine, install the pushrods for the choke and throttle, batteries, ignition and the switches. Then put the pilot (Garfield) in and put on the canopy, and then figure out how to rim the plane so it isnt just blue. Maybe stars and bars, or FLAMES!

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...67192676_n.jpg

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...62160234_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...32914247_n.jpg

acdii 01-20-2013 07:14 PM

RE: Four Star 120 New build
 
BTW I staggered the pattern on the ailerons and elevators for a reason, breaks up the pattern to make it easier to see.

[email protected] 11-19-2020 07:54 AM


Originally Posted by acdii (Post 11254485)
After my debacle with the ARF, Sig sent me a new kit to replace it with, so Istarted working on it tonight. First impressions on the kit, wood is pretty nice, though Ido notice that there is a great variance betweensome of the wood, for example a could 1/4 x 1/4 sticks are very light, around .003 kg to heavy around .014 kg. Same with the wood the ribs were stamped from, some dense, some really light, which makes me beleive its all cut and stocked before putting into the kits, and not cut and kitted like I have seen with some other kits. The die cutting on W1/W3 parts was half and half, some cutting was good, and some not all the way through, especially the W3 ribs. The W2/W3 ribs though came right apart after some light sanding, the other ones had to be cut with a knofe, it would have taken too much wood off sanding them. All the wood is straight and clean, and demensionally perfect.

Ihave all the ribs out, all the wing parts separated and then I weighed each piece, and then grouped them into left and right wings, marking the wieght on each piece.

Isetup my work table, grabbed a sheet of drywall and screwed it to my workbench, laid the plans out, and then covered them with the leftover plastic from the Monokote I used for my other plane. What I did with the plans to help them lay flat, and I must say SIG rolls the plans the right way, printed side out. I laid them out for a day with weight on them, then rolled them backwards, and left them for a day, then I unrolled and rolled them one more time, this way from the bottom up instead of from the side. When I was ready to lay them out, they lay perfectly flat now.

I started the left wing tonight, and each and every piece fit perfectly. Spars laid up nice, all the ribs fit snug, tacked all the joints with thin CA, then put the shear webs in, and for some odd reason Ithought the rear webs went on the 1/4 rear spar, DOH, so I had to cut them out and redo them, thankfuy Ijust tacked them with CA, they go on the face of the trailing edge sheeting. Once I got that corrected I then ran a filet of Elmers wood glue using a syringe to apply it. The next step was to install the wing bolt block, then I sanded the trailing edge to line up with the ribs, and then glued on the top trailing edge sheeting with Elmer. Then the top spar and 1/4" spars were installed, all but one can be installed at this time. Ithen ran elmers around all the joints I could reach. The wing is now drying, it is at the stage where a few more small items are attached, and then removed. Once I can remove it I can then reach the rest of the joints and run more glue around them.

The ribs are installed heaviest towards the center, so rolls should be nice. Ialso left the last rib out, which will let me transport the wing in the back of my truck without it sticking out. Overall length hits around 73", normally its 81". Iplan to put rounded tips on, so add about 3 inches, and it will be just under the length of my trucks bed.

A few things I am changing from the kit are with the fuse. Iam moving the elevator servo to the tail, and running a pull pull system for the ruddder. The radio tray that was in the ARF separated cleanly, so I may use that instead of the one in the kit. Going to make a hatch in the nose so I can install the batteries and ignition module, the fuel tank will go over the CG, so I may not need the tank floor. Going to use a Dubro Iso mount instead of the kit mount.

PICS added

good morning! I know this is an old post but I am building a 4*120 and have a quick question. With the trailing edge shear webbing (SW3) did you glue those on TOP of the leading edge of the bottomTE sheeting OR to the front face of the sheeting (so the bottom of the SW is touching the building board, for lack of a better description). Hope that makes sense! Thanks.

andy

acdii 11-19-2020 08:08 AM

That I don't remember, it has been quite a while since I built the plane. I would have to pull the plans to see, but not sure where I put them.

[email protected] 11-25-2020 02:57 PM

Now worries! Second question for anybody who wants to try this one. I want to use Robart Hinges for my 120 build. I’d prefer 3/16 hinges but that doesn’t leave a lot of meat especially on the trailing edge of the wing. Any recommendations? Will 1/8 Robart hinges work ok?

acdii 11-25-2020 04:47 PM

1/8" are what I used, work just fine.

[email protected] 11-25-2020 05:08 PM


Originally Posted by acdii (Post 12646691)
1/8" are what I used, work just fine.

thanks! Yeah the 3/16 look just too big for that set up. Appreciate the help


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