glue for hinge pins
 

Ok all of you great builders a question.
After doing the repairs and glassing on my G/S Corsair I am ready to reinstall the hinges (Robart large hinge pins) in the past I have used gorilla glue the expanding type, but don't like the clean up that uses out I would try 30min epoxy but don't see a good way to get the stuff in the hole. I made a test board drilled the holes to get a good fit and tried to wipe the epoxy into the hole with a slimed down Q-tip, and some on the shaft, seams to work but the hinge shaft is still a bit lose right at the exit point.

So I am open for some suggestions

Thanks in advance

Cheers Bob T

For the Gorilla glue I wipe the LE and TE covering with oil and the clean up is a lot easier. I went back to epoxy though on my last two builds. I go to Wallgreen's and ask for the free syringes at the drug section, just say it is for installing ear drops and they usually give me several of them. The end fits the drilled hole perfectly. I drill the holes all the way through the LE and TE or if it's a solid piece of wood I drill a very small vent hole so the epoxy flows into the hole and has someplace to go when the hinge is pushed in. I just give the syringe plunger in and can see how much glue is going into the hole. I also oil the hinge pins center just in case I slop a bit of epoxy.
If the Gorilla glue is vented it takes the easiest way to expand out but it's still kind of sloppy.

Gary

On the oil I have found that bar chain oil works the best, as it is real sticky, and after the glue is dry a little denatured alcohol . In my current work both ends of the hing's pins go into closed areas. Will swing by wally world wallgreen's in the am and see what I can get. I like the epoxy the best, but if you have to make a repair the epoxy can be a problem.
When I built this bird 6 years back I used the Gorilla glue vary sparingly, but did not like the tedious clean up. So I most likely will stay with the epoxy.

Thanks for the feed back as this old geezer is always trying to find better ways to do things, but as you know some old ways are the best.

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377

JB weld woks excellent,nice and thick,does not run out.It is epoxy,so it cleans up with alkahol.jeffo

Well if your going into something like a solid piece of wood then drilling a small hole towards the bottom of the hole the hinge is going into allows the epoxy a place to come out of when the hinge is pushed in. You can also just put the epoxy on the hinge so you don't get too much of it in the hole. For repairs I use a heat gun to remove the epoxy/hinges. Works well unless your trying to save the covering. In that case they make the hinges with a screw and they can be taken apart and assembled again.
Now that I'm living in a city again I no longer have bar oil on hand. The gardeners here don't even have chain saws, you have to phone a tree service if you need some trimming.
I have never tried JB Weld but I have seen it mentioned in a few posts. I used to use it a lot for making throttle linkage on cars using cable and hime joints, heating it will thin it so it flows into holes and cracks. Heating it will not soften it again once it is set though. I use it for mufflers and have even used it to repair cracks on engines.

I have used the gorilla glue with good success but you need very little. I dampen the hole with a wet q tip and then use a tooth pick with a drop of glue on it and stick in the hole then put in the hinge. Using a drop of light oil on the hinge joint and then leave it alone until it expands. After it drys it is very easy to pick any excess off with the tip of a #11 blade. Lately I have used the gel epoxy made by PC7 it stays in place and you need very little if your holes are not to big.

Ok thanks for your suggestions, At this point I am going to go with my stand by method modified Q-tip and 30 min epoxy, as no one has really provided a bang up NEW method, at my age I guess I have tried them all at some point in my 77 years of building (started when I was 7 )

cheers Bob T

Bob, I like the Robart hinges and I use the 30 minute epoxy too. If using the large ,3/16 dia, hinges I drill the hole and use a Dremel Abrasive stone which is shaped so the cone fits in the hole some and taper the cone above that to accept the larger hinge point area. You get a closer fit that way plus it creates a well for the epoxy to pool in when smearing it in the hole. Another trick I use is heated vasaline to soak the hinge point in before using the epoxy. I have a metal lid vasaline jar which I fashioned a coat hangar cradle around the lid and used a candle to heat the vasaline in. I let the epoxy partially cure and exercise the hinges a couple time being careful not to move the out of alignment. Never had one fail.
Frank

I have been using epoxy as well, the Gorilla glue just created more work, IMO and I do not think it is as strong really. I like to put a little grease on the hinge knuckle to ensure the epoxy chips away from this area easily. These are by far my favorite hinge foe most applications. I have never seen or had one fail.

I too use 30 minute epoxy. I also use the cone shaped dremel stone to taper the hole. I put epoxy in the hole, smear some on the barbs only, then use a clean q-tip to remove any epoxy near the knuckle. Then install the hinge.

Be nice to see Pacer come back out with the hinge glue again, the stuff worked great and it was easy to use. And NO, it isn't just elmers even if they look the same.

The hinges are barbed, so if GG is strong enough wouldn't regular Aliphatic (TiteBond) work? It can be easily injected into the hole with a MonoJect syringe.

I've been using canopy glue on my Robart hinges.

Fly, some people have used it thinking it was the same thing as the old pacer hinge glue and have recommended it, I ran tests with it and found it doesn't hold plastic at all well so I would say no, I can't trust it.
Tom, I'm glad you posted that, it's one glue I haven't tried, never gave it any thought to be honest. When I get back out to the shop and working again I will run some tests with it. Sure would be cleaner then epoxy or GG. How it stick to the raw wood??

If you are talking about RC-56 canopy glue I think this is the same stuff. Home Depot use to carry it in the stores but now you have to order it online. I have used this for years. I do most of my building with it. It dries pretty fast too. I have even glassed wing center sections with it using .010 pillow ticking for the glass. I just ordered a bottle about three months ago and am thinking about a new build and haven't even flown my last build yet. Its a sickness I know.

I use a syringe I got from the feed store with the point ground off flat so I don't stick myself. IIRC I use a #18 needle for applying the glue.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weldbond-...-545/203874337

Just thought I would add that if you use this it is not as sanding friendly as something like Titebond. Weldbond is a PVA glue and Titebond is an alphatic resin. Both have their place in my world.

The last bottle of Weldbond I had was several years old and good to the last drop without drying out. And it dries clear just like canopy glue. I will have to try some pin hinges myself. I am sorta getting tired of CA hinges.

The canopy glue adheres to wood, well. I haven't had hinges pull loose because of a poor bond.

woops!

Hey there Tom is that Pacers Formula 560

I believe that it is, Richard.

Canopy Glue for hinge points
 

It is Zap Adhesives Formula 560 Canopy Glue. It says, Specially formulated to bond Canopies and Plastic parts to wood, figerglass, paint, or MonoKote surfaces. Safely bonds vinyl, ABS, Butyrate, and other plastics.
Forms a firm, flexible clear bond that can withstand shock and vibration.
I will try some on a Robart hinge point and see if it sticks.