Flite Metal Application
 

Hi Guys,

I am beginner at model making and an intermediate in flying. I have just ordered myself a TF P47 1/7 Kit. Intentions are to make it look as scale as my skills can handle, probably not going to go making major modifications to. Following is going to be my process:

1. Kit building
2. fiber glassing
3. Flite Metal paneling
4. Riveting
5. Decals

Q.No.1. Do I need fiber glassing for flite metal application?
Q.No.2. If yes! I plan to use 3/4 oz film with Minwax polycrylic water based, How many cans I will be requiring for a 1/7 scale TF P47? I need to place order once since its not available at where I live.

Looking forward to your responses.

Thanks

Hi Guys,

I would really appreciate if someone replied or forwards me to a page where I can find answer

Thanks

Have you been to the website ? On the first page, it states that the surface must be glassed. http://www.flitemetal.com/

Some may use Minwax Polyctyllic, but I feel that it would be too soft. If you use it, a quart should be more than enough.

Thanks TomCrump,

Yes I have visited the website and yes on the main page it says that but in application tab it said "sheeted OR fiber glassed" so I was confused, which I cleared it up with Ed.
I have seen Randy Carranza Videos in which he used Minwax Polycrylic for fiberglassing on top of sheeted balsa, I am going to do the same then apply primer + sanding + FM. This is my first time building a kit, so didnt know that a quarter would be enough to do the job, but you mentioned that a qaurter is enough.

Thanks once again

A quart of Minwax Polycryllic should be enough. If it is difficult for you to get, I'd order two quarts, just to be safe.

Apply the poly in thin coats. If you lay it down too thick, it takes forever to dry. This will gum up your sand paper as you prepare the surface for primer.

I suggest that you wait at least a week to prime the surfaces, after applying the polycryllic.. If you prime it sooner, you run the risk of trapping moisture under the primer. This causes blistering, when the model is completed, and sitting in the sun.

Hi!
First of all the P-47 in 1/7 scale is rather small if you want to cover it using Flite-metal (Duct tape) as it will probably be rather heavy and as it is your first build I would recommend using chrome Oracover wet sanded on a piece of glass instead. Using that technic will get a much lighter model that will fly better and land slower (and probably last longer...).http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129022

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129023http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129024http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129025http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129027http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129028http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129029http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129030http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129031

Flite Metal is not duct tape, nor anywhere near as heavy.

It's more like aluminum foil with an adhesive backing.

The adhesive is strong and unforgiving. The foil can not be repositioned. If you have to lift it, you'll end up by using a new piece.

Hi!
I have seen both and they look and behave the same

Not sure about using polycrylic, what I do know and having used flight metal, the surface needs to be pretty hard, you have to burnish flight metal onto the surface. Tom is correct, you get one shot at applying it, touch anything and you will need a new piece.

Ron

I would hesitate to glass, using Polycryllic, if I were to apply Flite Metal. I would be more inclined to use epoxy finishing resin. Like I said in an earlier post, I feel that the Poly C would be too soft.

Glassing with Polycryllic is fine, if one wants to go that route. The Poly C will provide a good surface on which a painted finish can be applied. I'm afraid that the process involved in applying FM would mar the waterborne product, though.

Thanks for the response everyone, my main aim was to use FM as the final finish for which I approached Ed Clayman to advise me for the base, he said it should be glassed.

So for glassing I referred to Randy Carranza https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAqlDcfqRcw glassing process, he used minwax polycrylic for glassing since it is water based and 80% of the water is evaporated making it lighter, but he did painted it afterwards not FM.
I am a bit confused now, so I should not glass it and just use primer + Sanding + FM??? cause I was using primer on the glassing then FM.. Sorry guys for being ignorant, just bear with me a little longer.

Once again thanks for responding.

I'll make a guess, but generally speaking when someone refers to fiber glassing a plane they mean fiberglass with either epoxy or polyester resin. The reason is this gives a hard surface, and if done correctly will not add a lot of weight but will give a hard surface for the final finish.

I use either .5oz or .75oz per sq. foot fiberglass and an epoxy finishing resin, sands easy and if you thin it just a tad it will penetrate the surface and give a tough hard finish.

Ron

Glassing with Polycryllic is done for paint preperation. The polycryllic is not as hard as an epoxy. For paint, it doesn't need to be. I used this process on my Ziroli Stuka .

You are looking to use a metal foil. The burnishing process would damage the "soft" poly surface. Epoxy or polyester are far more suitable for your purpose.

I doubt that you would be satisfied with just paint and primer. (omitting the glassing process) The wood substrate is far too soft to withstand burnishing. For paint, alone, I've seen some try to seal the balsa and paint, without glassing. 99% of the time, the wood grain is visable. Besides denting and marring the balsa, wood grain would be evident through the FM.

Hi!
The only way to use duct tape or (Flite metal) is to cover the surface with 24-30 hour epoxy and 25 gram glass fiber weav or (not as good) polyester resin as his gives a hard surface and then filler.Filling dents is done with brown micro balloons and 24 hour epoxy.
But I would not recommend this metod for a small ,1,7m span fighter plane as the weight is going to be to high. A much better metod is to sacrifice perfect scale looks and just aim for good fly-ability and using Oracover and do as I showed with my DC-3. Wet sanding pieces of chrome Oracover on a glass surface ,sanding with 1200 wet sand paper. Plastic film (Oracover) is much lighter than duct tape (Flite metal).The only places I have used duct tape is on the engine cowlings as the surface is much too sadel shaped and on the side rudder where I have used Oratex (same as Solartex but a little better).

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129346http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129345http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129353http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129354http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2129355

I am not trying to step on any toes here but please stop misleading the OP, Flight metal is not duct tape, it is simply flight metal covering. about .0015" thick with a supper adhesive applied to the foil.
I have both the 1/8 scale and the GS P-47. Both are glassed with .5oz cloth and epoxy resin. the 1/8th scale is painted the GS has flight metal. To the OP I want to say there might be a small weight gain with FM. but maybe only a few ounces. The scale look FM provides has no equal if a bare look is what your after.
Finishing epoxy resin will cure in about 2 hours, and can be easily sanded, any weave that is showing can be filled with spray can primer. I have used this system for over 20 years, makes a base for finishing the model.