It is starting to look like an airplane

Does anyone think a thunder tiger 1.20 ringed glow engine would power my us 1000 enough ?

I think the 1.20 will be fine.

I think the 1.20 will be fine.

I flew mine with a tired OS 120 Non surpass four cycle and it worked though I am moving to a Saito 150 now.

That 120 (two stroke correct?) should do fine.

Bill S.

It's a thunder tiger 1.20 2 cycle ringed piston,with incredible compression,was gonna put a moki 140 on but I got a great deal on this engine and my other Tt engine was a powerhorse

That sounds like a lot of power for a US 60 .. I only have an OS 75 AX on mine and it has lots of power ..

That's because we're talking about a US1000.

I am sorry .. You are lucky to have the US 1000 . I would really like one but popular opinion is that I have too many already . I would probably stick a DLE 20 on the nose or maybe a 30 if I built it with retratcs .

Retracts are cool,to cumbersome for me .

I agree . I will pass on retracts unless its a scale bird of some sort ..

I'm going home this weekend for spring break, where I'll be re-covering my US60. I'm thinking of converting it to a tailwheel using Du Bro parts 789 (mounted just forward if the wing) and 955/956/957. Should I leave it as a nosedragger or go through with the conversion (I think I've asked this before, but now I have to actually make up my mind) and if so, which tailwheel size should I get?

I'm also thinking of adding flaps (if I do the tailwheel conversion, I'll want to be able to land it nice and slow). Has anyone tried this on an already-put-together bird?

I like this tail wheel setup, I've used it many times and never had a problem as long as it was installed correctly.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRWW9&P=7
As for the conversion to a tail dragger, not a big deal. If the blocks were installed in the wing when it was built then you can use the stock landing gear. If not then you will need to use something like the 789 you mentioned.
Again, I've used this type of gear many times and have never had a problem nor have I ever seen one break.
As for the flaps and ailerons it's not hard to do if your tearing the covering off anyway. Here is my setup, it was done during the build and the wing was fully sheeted afterward, open bays will make it easier.

Thanks! I just bought most of the parts I'll need (LHS didn't have a few, but those will be at the LHS where I'm spring-break-ing), so hopefully I'll be doing both conversions. Not sure I'll be able to get the aileron hinges out, so that might make flaps impossible. Now for the pushrods--do you put anything in the housings to lubricate them? Seems like a lot of unnecessary load would be placed on the servo with them as bent as they have to be in this wing.

+1 on the tailwheel choice KaP2011. You can always use two servo's for the ailerons stankinator. I am not sure what you mean by removing the aileron hinges though, all you have to do it cut the aileron say 8 or 10" from the root with a razor saw and tie both torque rods together as in KaP2011's pics. Maybe I missed something from a previous post. Good choice putting the mains on the fuse(IMHO) I like to have the fuse "stand up" by itself.

I moved my gear from the wing to the fuse. See my post #2401 on page 97. I think the gear I used was from a yak, I can get you the part number if you need it.

I found a place that has gear in stock, so I'll be stopping there Monday. I'd like it as wide as possible though-if that Yak gear is wider than 15" please do send me the part number. I'd also like it to lean backwards a bit, like you would have on an RV-4, but I haven't found any you can buy like that (of course, GP stopped making replacement parts for their 1/4 scale RV-4 a while back). As for hinges, I don't have a wing or plans in front of me, but I assumed I'd need at least one more hinge in place to do the flap conversion than is already there. If not, so much the better! I plan on doing just one servo with pushrods, as it seems to be common (and what MinnFlyer recommended), and it means less junk on the wing and a better-looking plane, IMO.

Right, of course you want a hinge at the cut off point. hopefully you can flex the aileron at the cut enough to slit or drill for an extra hinge. and then of course you have to try to get the new hing in. I sure like the Dubro super strength main gear, but it is only 14 inches wide by 4" tall, great for a 40, small for a 60 size.

Ooh. I hadn't so much considered the height. With that it'll look a bit like the Cessna 150 tailwheel conversions that always sit super nose-low. Probably no option but three-pointers, then.

My gear is 13 inches apart 15 inches to the outside of the 3 inch tires. With this landing gear the center of the spinner is in almost the same location as it was with the gear on the wing. The gear is a bit stiff so the plane does bounce a bit more then it did before. Softer tires might help this but I haven't tried this yet.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2084464http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2084465http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2084466

I'll take some measurements and see what else is at the LHS, but I think I'll probably go with the Du Bro gear unless it's really short. Get that nice 'composite' Extra-ey look.

How do you mount the servo for the flaps? Would it be sufficient to glue some hardwood blocks to the underside of the glassed balsa? Also, I've heard heat may be able to overcome epoxy, and if I can get the torque rods out I'd like to replace all the hinges with the removable pinned type. Anyone know whether I'd have any hope of doing that? As a follow-up, if I sufficiently hardened the aileron stock around the torque rod, could I skip the epoxy, so it's removable in the future, and I'm not stuck with fixed flaps and removable ailerons?

I got most of the covering off today. Half the reason I want to replace the hinges is to make stripping the rest and putting on the new stuff easier.

What type of hinges are on there now Stankinator? Cutting the hinges at the pivot points may be the easiest solution, you will probably have to destroy the aileron where the torque rod is glued in. If you could just cut the aileron for the flap and slip in an extra hinge it would save you a ton of work. You can cover the wing with the ailerons in place, just do a sealed hing line. I used the existing aileron servo to control the flaps and used two servos for the ailerons. I mounted a servo as you say and found it plenty strong enough the fiberglas tape that reinforces the wing joint adds allot of strenght to the balsa, but you are also taking away some more of the structure of the wing joint.

Calvi

What type of hinges are on there now Stankinator? Cutting the hinges at the pivot points may be the easiest solution, you will probably have to destroy the aileron where the torque rod is glued in. If you could just cut the aileron for the flap and slip in an extra hinge it would save you a ton of work. You can cover the wing with the ailerons in place, just do a sealed hing line. I used the existing aileron servo to control the flaps and used two servos for the ailerons. I mounted a servo as you say and found it plenty strong enough the fiberglas tape that reinforces the wing joint adds allot of strenght to the balsa, but you are also taking away some more of the structure of the wing joint.

Calvi

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