deckerv

My Feedback: (21)

On the header tank... would it be possible to clean off the main tank really well, and use Goop to "glue" the header tank to the main tank?? That way you wouldn't be messing up the level at which the carb is drawing fuel... From the pics, it looks like one may fit on there???

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

I have considered that plus put on a couple tyraps just in case the goop lets go. The problem is then the fuel lines are hard to reach again. I may look at it some more tonight. I did make a bracket similar to Piperpilot's remote glow. That works out much better.
Later,,,basmntdweller

JasonH-RCU

This is where I mounted by header tank.

Jason

Piper Pilot

My Feedback: (1)

Jason,
Which canopy is that? Looks great.

sharam

My Feedback: (2)

Where did you get that canopy from? Now, it looks like a real heli!!

JasonH-RCU

I order the Canopy from Correct in Japan for 55.00.
Jason

JasonH-RCU

http://www4.ocn.ne.jp/~correct

sharam

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the link.

JasonH-RCU

Anytime, I also order all his upgrades except for the metal head,swashplate and washout unit. Thats next

jason.

Piper Pilot

My Feedback: (1)

Jason,

How did you order the stuff, can't read his website? Do you have an email address?

JasonH-RCU

[email protected]

skycom

I put a remote glow and fuel fill point on my Caliber. Mounted them on an aluminium bracket attached to the bottom of the engine mount on the rhs. Works great

TomM

OK, what am I missing here.
I thought a header tank was supposed to be mounted as close to the carb as possible and on-center with the carb to prevent lean-outs when inverted or rolling. The fuel line in the pic is about twice as long as the main tank's line was.

JasonH-RCU

I am not having any problems with the engine leaning out. If the engine starts to lean out I will take you up on your advice.

Jason

Vance

TomM- I have read that it makes no difference where the header tank is mounted. I have seen it mounted under the heli and also up front under the radio tray. It certainly makes sense to mount it as close to the carb as possible and also inline with the carb inlet but as to the reasoning behind it I can't find a definitive answer. I think that as long as you mount it reasonably close you'll compensate with subtle differences in needle settings. It is really just a fat spot in the fuel line to catch air bubbles. The main tank in some scale models is pretty far away from the carb and also pretty far offline of the carb inlet and it doesn't seem to make too much difference as long as the fuel line doesn't get prohibitively too long- whatever that number may be.
Vince D

Rotor

Hi Gang (this is a post to all RE: the Caliber 30),

New user here, so feel free to harp on me about ediquette as needed.

I have been flying an Ergo .46 and a C30 SR-X. The SR-X has been incredibly reliable in assisting my learning curve. I actually had an original C30 SE'ish (after all the crashes) from 1989, but I figure 9'd it for the last time one day.

Since I had my .46 (aka .50 now), I took my time looking at the newer .30 size ships...not happy with any of them I found a C30 SR-X @ the Birmingham Fun-Fly one year and bought it used, put all my gear in it and on it right there and flew it all weekend...I was very pleased.

Well, I got very excited after seeing Kyosho finally making a run at the .30 market again and a heck of a good offer (cost) on a new Caliber .30, so I took it last week.

I built it (what little you have to) in about 5 hours, ate dinner, then benched out the radio gear and pitch...the servos and linkages (ccpm) actually SCARED me...NO binding or buzzing, FULL travel end to end...I DID NOT deviate from the manual, which took great strength.

The only disappointment was the stooopid 'Z' bend...Kyosho designer prolly did this as an inside joke for all those that crabbed about the pricey Nexus.

I took care of the 'Z' bend with the coolest tool from Ron Lund of Rick's R/C Hobbies- It is a Vario Thread Tool for 2mm pushrods, combined with a self tapping nylon Rocket City (ball) link, I was in business. Here is the link for the tool...its pricey ($27 U.S.) but I can make any push rod I want...very cool:

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=VAR70_21&Category_Code=Misc.+Tools

I have an 8103 PCM w/531's on the main contol surfaces and a Hitec 605BB on the tail (.16 transit and 77 oz/in w/4.8v pack). The engine is obvious- an O.S. 32 SX-H with the kit muffler (its fine, newbies please keep it). The Gyro is an older NEJ-1000 w/no heading hold), I like HH Gyro's, but don't really need one on this ship (I use the NEJ-5000T w/Hitec 5925 on the tail for the Ergo). Last, I use Enya #3's in cooler weather and #4's in the summer with Wildcat 30%.

First flight on this ship required Tail/Aileron/Elevator trim. Landed it right away, reset the links on the tail rotor I made and sub trimmed to touch up the rest. Took off again, and ran it through loops and figure 8's when the engine quit @ 100 feet or so...my glow plug wasn't tight...there went $6.

It Auto'd down VERY nicely. At no time did I have to adjust the tracking or balance the factory blades. I have 550 V-blades on the way, but was VERY surpised at the quality of this kit compared to others...I love having a GOOD Kyosho kit, it brings back the romance of entering R/C helis for me...I know there are other good .30 kits out there, but I believe that this is a new beginning for Kyosho, it is what they wanted the Nexus to be. I love JR, I love MA, but I like going back to my roots from time to time...I guess this kit offers to simplify a very complex hobby.

Follow the manual (I know its in Japenglish, but its still easy), get a simulator, and put fuel through it...lots and lots of fuel through it! Thanks for the vine everyone, I'm out.

-Andrew

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

I just got done assembling my 3rd Caliber in the last month.

First one was mine. Flew perfect right out of the box till I smashed it due to dumb thumbs during a Cuban 8.

Got a new one. Assembled it. Flew perfect right out of the box. I only have 3 flights on that one now.

A total newbie came to the field the other day and wanted to get a heli. "Get a Caliber" I say. He does. We put it together tonight, set up the radio and we are going to fly it Friday. I have no doubt it will be as good as the two I have flown.

I have had ARF heli's in the past and this BY FAR beats anything I have seen.

Rotor

Hi Wayne,

I think that the two birds to "have" for newbies will be the Venture and Caliber 30's.

The Venture has the Kyosho CURRENTLY beat on price and parts availability, not to mention a very polished owners manual (JR trademark).

Regardless, by next summer they BOTH will storm the flying fields like the Raptor had, and the Ergo 30 before that.

I like the Driven Tail and the "Cool Factor' of the transmission set-up on the Kyosho...nice bird.

-out

davidj

Just had my 5th flight on mine today. I installed a header tank attached to the bolt holding the boom support just like Jason has and it works great. I cannot believe there have been no comments on the WAY TO NARROW landing gear. I plan on replacing mine with rappy gear or the new maverick unit ASAP. I cut an hole on the right side of the canopy just like the muffler hole on the left and have good access to the fueling tubes and the main needle. The 5th flight I had the main needle turned into 1 3/4+ so it is still rich and not making much power but is very smooth. I like this heli.

wgeffon

My Feedback: (4)

David,

Any pics of your header tank set-up?

davidj

here you go

ixanos

I just received my Caliber 30 with 9CAP and GY401, does anyone knows what radio settings works best? The manual I got with the kit refers to the T8CH radio.

Thanks

basmntdweller

My Feedback: (9)

ixanos,,
Use the radio settings in the manual for the 8 channel listed. It's the same settings.
basmntdweller