jsuns

Hello Everybody. I am hoping to get some ideas for a starting problem that I am having with my Kyosho Nexus 30. I am a newbie, and yes, I know many individuals bad mouth the Nexus. I wanted something to start with that I didn't have to invest a lot on money into. I got a good deal on the Nexus, and some other additional goodies with it. Physically, it looks to be in great shape. My problem is that I am unable to get it started, and am uncertain if it is getting fuel. Like I said, I am totally new to the nitro helis. I just started approx. 1 month prior with an electric Blade CP, and it has been difficult! I'm improving, can hover nicely now, and wanted to move to a nitro, hearing a possibly easier learning curve over the electrics. Anyhow, when I attempt to start the Nexus, it seems to hydrolock, and I can't turn the starting cone with the glow plug in. I remove the plug, run the starter for a bit, and attempt again with the plug in, but it becomes difficult again to turn. I'm also not sure where I am to start with as far as setting the needle valve. I've pinched off the exhaust, and opened the throttle wide without the glow plug igniter, and cranked to attempt to draw in fuel. I think it may be taking on fuel, but I can't get the starter shaft to turn without the plug being almost completely out of the engine. The pressure builds up too great for it to turn. I've even tried the theory of turning the heli onto the muffler side, and spin the fan backwards to free the lock, but once the glow is back in, and I attempt to start, it seems to hydrolock again! I know the engine is free, being that it will readily spin with the glow plug removed. Glow plug is also good (new), and I checked to see it ignite, but engine will not start, when I can get it to turn.

Also, can anybody point me to a conversion for the Nexus starting shaft? I would like to utilize a hex type shaft on my starter to start the heli. I believe for the Nexus it would be 5mm. I don't like the standard starting cone on the Nexus, and mine appears to be quite worn down, some of which I've done myself. It is also too close to rotor shaft and swash plate, and the starter sometimes slips off when I am using it. I am afraid that I will slip and damage something in this area, and would like to have the more secure shaft type starting mechanism.

Any help that I can get with both issues will be greatly appreciated! I want to fly, and really have the bug!!

THANKS

laceycopter

I think your in the wrong forum. try this one http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_215/tt.htm
Hope that helps

targit

I'm so glad the DF is electric

KC36330

if it's hydraulic locking it's flooded and defiantly getting fuel. you should see all the fuel blow out the glow plug hole when you remove the plug and spin it over.

if it's not in hydraulic lock it may be your starter is just to weak (very common). you didn't mention which engine you have but most 30's run the main needle valve between 1 and 2 turns out. you can also pay attention to the fuel line entering the carb as you turn the engine with the starter, its easy to see the fuel being drawn in.

lastly pinching the exhaust is notorious for flooding one if your inexperienced and don't know what your doing. only do the pinching if it won't draw fuel to the carb with the starter applied on it's own and then only pinch it till the fuel is visible entering the carb, then stop pinching.

kc

jsuns

Hey, thanks for your response. It is appreciated. I did happen to get the heli started yesterday for the first time. I found that I had to give it a little throttle stick to get it going, very little. It appears that the previous owner had too little throttle servo adjustment in the bottom position for the heli to start. I think I will have to either set this a bit more with the throttle setting in the radio, or increase throttle/ele. trim to the high side. I would think that I should be able to start with the elevator/throttle stick at very bottom. Does that sound correct to you? If that is not correct, then what should my procedure/setting be? Please understand, I'm not mechanically disfunctional, in fact I am quite mechanically inclined, but very unfamiliar with, and new to nitro helis. Thanks again for the help!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

The heli should start with the throttle stick at the bottom and the trim around 1/2 or so and cut off completely with the trim lowered if you have a mechanical trim or by the throttle cut function if you have a computer radio.

KC36330

you also need the throttle opening to be linear with the throttle/collective stick..........with trim and stick at full down (0%) the carb should be closed completely. with the stick down but trim at 1/2 to 3/4 the carb should open enough for a reliable idle, then at 50% stick you should have the carb 1/2 open and at full stick 100% open. allot of people have the 0% and 100% but the middle is very non linear on 90% of all newbie that I've helped setup. the best way to get linear action is to have the linkage arm on the carb and the servo horn be pointing in the same direction throughout the entire stick deflection, if the servo horn is at 90* (straight up/down) at mid stick, so should the carb control arm when the carb is at 50% if that makes sense.

kc

red_sash

The cone gave me all sorts of problems. Rubber shredding everywhere, and it just seem hydrolocked all the bloody time. As soon as I put the hex start on and used a one way bearing 5mm starting wand, starts every time (well almost).

Look for the Zeal hex start for the nexus. I have one here, but I'm a little far away and you should be able to find it somewhere. I think I tried the raptor one, but didn't quite fit because of the flat spots on the start shaft. I still use my nexus in a scale ship which I am electrifying, and I buy my parts from Ishii Mokei in Japan if you get desperate.

Just my two cents worth...............

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

The Raptor 30 v1 start adapter will fit but as he said you have to use a starter wand with a 1 way bearing.