pilot90

Help! my name is josh wegener i'm 14 years old and i just invested about 500$$ in a corona 120 and certainly for me that was allot of money lol. sadly it isn't working. is what happens is it gets up in the air about a foot or so and at a random time the motor cuts out and after in order to make the motor to start again i need to shut off the switch and turn it on again. by the way i'm using a telebee 50b speed controller and an atomic force 17 turn motor from helihobby which by the way it took them 6 pkgs to get everything "right" but sadly its still not working.. thanks. any info would be helpful

-Josh Wegener

gadget01

Josh, if your speed controller is working properly, it is cutting off power to the motor because it has reached the low-voltage cut off for your battery. I hate this feature, as my controller does the same thing but not until after the battery is starting to go dead. I have heard that the Castle Creations Phoenix controllers have a soft cut-off feature that won't abruptly cut power like that. In an airplane, it's not such a big deal to recover from as your fixed wings keep you afloat. Losing all power is not a bad way to let you know you're reaching the end of the line for your battery and you should land immediately.

An electric heli needs a soft-cutoff speed controller for sure- something I wish I had known before I ordered mine.

pilot90

Thanks so much for your help. I used to have a t20b 20 amp and helihobby switched it out to a tellebee 50 b and im still haveing the same problem, do u know which castle creations is best.. i charge my battery fully then i try to fly right away and it still happens is there somthing wrong with the battery? would buying a discharger and discharging it then recharging it help?? as i said im a newbie and any advice would help.. thanks.

Josh Wegener

pilot90

also i forgot to add this in my previous post.. but would a brushless remedy the stuation if so what is the best and most economical setup?? thanks again
-Josh Wegener

TIA

MegaMotor Mega 16/15/3 and a Castle Creation 35Amp ESC is what you are looking for.

gadget01

Another cool thing about the Castle Creations controller is that you can hook it up to your pc's usb port to do the programming as opposed to the cumbersome method of using your radio's throttle inputs. Also, check into upgrading the main rotor shaft, as the stock shaft bends easily and trying to straighten it is an effort in pure frustration. With a bent main rotor shaft, the head will wobble and really piss you off, not to mention wear out the bearings prematurely and make life hell for the rest of the components. My titanium main shaft just arrived from ballistic and I'm eager to install it. Buh-bye bad vibrations!

pilot90

Hey i just wanted to thank you all for your help. and say that i got the mega motor witht the castle 35 amp speed controller from Lite Machines.. They rock.. since i had so much trobule with heli hobby they LMH gave me 15% off! and they included extra tail rotor housings for free they are great. ill post when i try out the motor but once again thanks for all the help
-Josh Wegener

radman2112

My Feedback: (1)

Hello, I also had problems with that. I found that I had the gears too close and it was making it draw too much and the ESC would shut down. Try loosening up the gear between the motor and the main shaft. It doest need to mesh that tight. Also I dont know if it was mentioned but, if your ESC is programmable, try lowering the cutoff voltage. That too will help, Good luck and dont get discouraged, once you get it all dialed in, its a blast to fly!

pilot90

i just got the phonix 35 which is programmable and i havent tried it with that yet.. (stupid school getting in the way of my models lol) anyhow.. i have a question the new speed control came with a lmh connector (like a big tamya) allready soldered on for my battery they included one for the battery and charger but i kindof like deans should i just make an adapter? i dont know any advice would be helpful thanks for all of your advice so far.

Josh Wegener

coda5351

hey there RCU.

pilot90: in my experiences you will be happyer if you can convert your whole system to one connector type. i would recamend a deans connector. the tamya connectors are crap for high current draw applications.

lenrev

Get rid of the Tamia connector and use Deans Ultras.

Joe K

My Feedback: (1)

I am having a similar problem with a brushless.
E-FLITE 40 – Amp Brushless ESC
Multiplex BL-480/4D
1900mAh 804V 7 Cell
I am getting only 1-minute hover time. My gears are not too tight.
Have any Ideas what my problem is?
Joe

gadget01

Joe,

Sounds like that battery pack is toast. Test it out on something else. If you know the pack is ok, it could be that the ESC has a voltage cutoff or something else not programmed right.

I recommend switching to LiPo packs-they are way better anyways- more power, less weight. I use 3S1P 2100mAh ThunderPower packs ($85 from Hobby Lobby Inc) - the performance and duration is good. Just use a LiPo pack charger and make double sure that it's set right (11.1v for a 3-cell pack, etc.) or it can be dangerous/entertaining. I set my Triton charger to charge a little under the max rate (2.0) and I always have good results. Having at least 2 packs really helps too, so you can fly on the 2nd pack while you put the first one back on the charger.

puble23

My Feedback: (1)

Ive got the same problem... Im using a Mega 16/5/3 motor and a castle creations 45amp controller. I thought by going brushless the problem would go away... It didnt. This is really starting to angery me that this problem wont go away. I wish I could just fix it so I could go up more than 3 feet off the ground without worrying about the heli dropping out of the air.

Joe K

My Feedback: (1)

I found unlike the gas set up the gears must be a little loose, but my biggest problem was that I was not running the battery down far enough.
I took a 12 volt car tail light bulb hooked up with a diode in series so that the diode would shut off and it would not run the battery down too far.
I now run battery down every time. I am now getting a strong 5+ min solid hover time.
Cycle Cycle Cycle Cycle
Joe

gadget01

Having a good quality charger for your batteries can really make a difference. This is even more important if you use lipos. This is not an area to try and be cheap with. Save if you have to and get the best charger you can afford. I started out with lipos and a quasi-cheap charger and it destroyed 2 packs (puffed them up), which was not cheap to deal with. The money I wasted on that charger and the 2 packs it wasted could have paid for my Triton that I use now.

puble23

My Feedback: (1)

I fixed the problem on my corona! Make sure your Rx is far far away from your motor/esc. I mounted my Rx on my tailboom right behind my gyro. I've had maybe one glitch since due to a low Tx battery. I recomend mounting the Rx as far away from the esc as possible (until the wire wont reach.)

Also make sure your battery wires are far away from the Rx also.