A super mod for your LMH
#1
Thread Starter
A super mod for your LMH
One thing that kind of lets the tail of the LMH down is the no bearing's on the tail rotor drive shaft. I found a fast and easy way to fix that just follow along.
PARTS LIST:
-4- GWS gear box ball bearings (the small ones from the ISP gear box's)
-1- piece of yellow NyRod (the inside piece that slides in the red tube from a push rod set, the yellow piece is ribbed)
(1)- Disasemble the tail and boom, remove the drive shaft supports from the tube. You will need two of the end pieces and two of the middle pieces. Now take the mid. parts and drill them to fit the bearings, you dont go all the way through, just enuff to put the bearings in with a good fit. Press the bearings in and set aside.(carefully CA the bearing for good grip)
(2)- Drill out the end pieces from the gear side in, dont go all the way through just enuff to fit the bearings. Now press the bearing in and set aside.(carefully CA the bearing for good grip)
(3)- Take a piece of Nyrod (the yellow inside piece) and cut the ribs off with a no 11 x-acto blade,sand smooth and to fit in the bearing center hole (make sure it fits tight). Once your done cut it into four 3mm long pieces.
(4)- Take the bearing ass. you made earler and press the Nyrod pieces into the center of the bearing on all four of them. Now you should have two of the end supports with a bearing in the end and a piece of yellow Nyrod in the center of the bearing. And two of the middle supports that are the same as the end pieces(with bearings and Nyrod).
(5)- The reason for the Nyrod is that its the same size as the drive shaft and will fit tightly to it. Put the two middle supports in the boom and center from the ends, after you tap these in put the end supports on the tube.
Now you have a tail boom that has four ball bearing supported spots for the drive shaft to run in. The drive shaft will fit the NyRod perfect, just put it together like norm. and put the two teflon washers on each end before the gears go on, tighten the set screw on the gear and your done. Give it a spin and see/feel how nice that is, the bonus of this is less friction and wasted power to drive the tail.
Thats about all if you have any problems with it just ask.
PARTS LIST:
-4- GWS gear box ball bearings (the small ones from the ISP gear box's)
-1- piece of yellow NyRod (the inside piece that slides in the red tube from a push rod set, the yellow piece is ribbed)
(1)- Disasemble the tail and boom, remove the drive shaft supports from the tube. You will need two of the end pieces and two of the middle pieces. Now take the mid. parts and drill them to fit the bearings, you dont go all the way through, just enuff to put the bearings in with a good fit. Press the bearings in and set aside.(carefully CA the bearing for good grip)
(2)- Drill out the end pieces from the gear side in, dont go all the way through just enuff to fit the bearings. Now press the bearing in and set aside.(carefully CA the bearing for good grip)
(3)- Take a piece of Nyrod (the yellow inside piece) and cut the ribs off with a no 11 x-acto blade,sand smooth and to fit in the bearing center hole (make sure it fits tight). Once your done cut it into four 3mm long pieces.
(4)- Take the bearing ass. you made earler and press the Nyrod pieces into the center of the bearing on all four of them. Now you should have two of the end supports with a bearing in the end and a piece of yellow Nyrod in the center of the bearing. And two of the middle supports that are the same as the end pieces(with bearings and Nyrod).
(5)- The reason for the Nyrod is that its the same size as the drive shaft and will fit tightly to it. Put the two middle supports in the boom and center from the ends, after you tap these in put the end supports on the tube.
Now you have a tail boom that has four ball bearing supported spots for the drive shaft to run in. The drive shaft will fit the NyRod perfect, just put it together like norm. and put the two teflon washers on each end before the gears go on, tighten the set screw on the gear and your done. Give it a spin and see/feel how nice that is, the bonus of this is less friction and wasted power to drive the tail.
Thats about all if you have any problems with it just ask.
#2
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: walnut,
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RE: A super mod for your LMH
I'll think about doing this mod if i feel that my lmh needs it, but first I'll have to fly it! (not done building)
By the way do you have any tips on mounting the fuel tank? The nyties keep pushing it up at an angle.[:@]
Any suggestions will help a lot and will be appreciated.
By the way do you have any tips on mounting the fuel tank? The nyties keep pushing it up at an angle.[:@]
Any suggestions will help a lot and will be appreciated.
#3
Thread Starter
RE: A super mod for your LMH
When i still flew my 110 i used to bend the ties where thay go around the tank so thay had sharp bends in then and then just bearly tighten them with a piece of foam behind to stop the fuel from foaming. Let the tank just hang in the ties and glue the foam in (or use double sticky tape). That worked for years for me, try it like that and see if it helps.
#5
Thread Starter
RE: A super mod for your LMH
You bet, the bearings in the tail boom sure make it nice and smooth thay cut out a lot of friction and you dont have to mess with them with lube and stuff ever again.
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Copenhagen, DENMARK
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RE: A super mod for your LMH
Hello,
Thanks for the tip. I agree the tail rotor drive shaft does not function very well. I have solved the problem by installing a belt drive instead. That's a super upgrade.
best regards,
Bing117, Copenhagen, Denmark
Thanks for the tip. I agree the tail rotor drive shaft does not function very well. I have solved the problem by installing a belt drive instead. That's a super upgrade.
best regards,
Bing117, Copenhagen, Denmark