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LST Rebuild

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Old 12-16-2011, 05:27 AM
  #26
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

I had an FOC Aftershock transmission in at first, but later got an XXL transmission for the bettter gearing, and just left in reverse. So yeah, it has reverse in it.
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:05 PM
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Ah ok cool just wondering if that would have been a help or not.

Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc

Ah ok cool just wondering if that would have been a help or not.

Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
I dont think its really going to batter strength-wise. Its a looks thing. Most MT rims are pretty strong.

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ORIGINAL: HerrSavage

That guy is probably me. Some guys have had better luck maybe, but over the long run, IMHO an LST2 - as long as you want to keep the 2-speed and NOT convert to single-speed - does not work well with smaller tires. I have a second LST2 that I wanted to make a ''track-only'' near-truggy kind of truck - Muggy shocks, sway bars, 17mm hexes with truggy tires, etc.., and it was a horrible nightmare. The 2-speed somehow won't engage if the tires are too small and light.. It had phases when it did work, but more often than not it didn't. And I had installed whole new transmissions, 2-speeds, clutches, you name it.. Totally irritating problem. Give gas, and the engine just revs with no load.. Then sometimes it would CLICK! and work.. Then it would CLICK! back out and not work.. Total PIA. I now have big HPI Savage XL Terra Pins on it, and it goes flawflessly. Just not so great for running on a track..

I read up on this lots, had people tell me the cam was worn, of flawed from factory, or I needed to clean the 2-speed, or do this or do that. All useless IMO. IMO the design of the truck somehow just doesn't allow for the 2-speed to work right with the smaller, lighter tires. I literally tried three whole separate transmissions, three 2-speed units, went to a new clutch, experimented with tightening the slipper all the way down, cleaned everything repeatedly, you name it. After the last time, having installed a brand new clutch and brand new 2-speed and brand-new XXL transmission, and taking it out to have it start slipping out and disengaging within half a tank, I have given up completely on running truggy tires on it. Unfortunately. Because as it's setup now, it handles really well on the track..

So anyway, yeah, that's my explanation.. Get some Axial 40 series rims or something. Or 40 series anything - but not MT or LPR...
Yes, sir.. you were the gentleman I was referring to. I can see how smaller tires will fubar the 2-speed shift. I think there would be a way around it but it would take some gearing experiments, and adjusting the 2spd shoes to engage at the right RPM. You have to figure with bigger tires, the transmission is going to be spinning less rpm so it will shift normal. With smaller tires, the transmission will be spinning faster at the same road speed to cover the same amount of distance. In my non-engineer-degree head, I see the transmission shifting way too soon.. Maybe even so fast you barely hear it (being setup to 40series anyway). The 2spd clutch works off RPM/centrifugal force. The adjustment of the setscrews in the clutch shoes determines the RPM when they open. Tight screws = late open/shift, Loose screws = early open/shift. If the centrifugal force goes up (faster trans. rpm) it will reach the shift point faster.

If I can find someone to loan me a set of 30-sized tires, I'd put 'em on one of my LST2's and see if I could get it working. I think a 2spd adjustment and a different spur gear would do the trick. Though I dont race, it'd be merely for my own (and whoever reads my post afterward) information.

I dont remember off-hand actual tooth numbers, but in terms of potential top speed, LST/2/AFT trans gears is slowest, XXL is faster, and BL conv. kit trans gears are the fastest. I want to try the BL gears in one of my trucks if they sell the two gears seperately from the conversion kit.

anyway.. enough of my banter. Long live the LST!
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:07 PM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild



Is it worth getting the finned engine mount?  



Yes I am building up my purchase lists trying to figure out the fluff and must haves.  I am keeping the revers gearing and at some point will get a servo for it.

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Old 12-17-2011, 10:27 PM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

Change out the motor brace under the chassis. I think Dynamite RC still sells them somewhere ($20). Also the receiver box could be replaced for pretty cheap
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:48 PM
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I don't think you need a new engine mount - just my opinion.

Great upgrades IMO are RC Raven springs, New Era rollbar(if you plan on bashing much..), wing kit, and maybe RPM arms, though I've never thought they are strictly necessary..

The area I would invest in - as with all RTR's, is servos. I've never done this because for bashing I get by with stock. But I would like at least something faster on throttle..

Depending on what wheels you want you might need to switch to 17mm hubs. Then you can run Axial rims or HPI Savage XL Terra Pins..(see ebay..)

Engine-wise, the new LRP .32 is out too............
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage

I don't think you need a new engine mount - just my opinion.

From the factory they suck. This will cause you to go thru the tranny and clutch gears rapidly. You won't notice that its crack untill you take it off and its split in two. Anyone whos owned a LST platform and has done a tare down knows those crack VERY easily. I didnt bother to heed to that advise till I went thru gears and eventually looked at the engine brace. Yes it was cracked
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:45 AM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

Sorry - vocabulary misunderstanding. Yes, the engine BRACE down under the chassis is known to suck, and it is always advised to get the Dynamite one.

What I was talking about were the normal engine mounts that the engine mounts to for mounting to the chassis. Zero problem there. Special finned mounts or whatever are only bling IMO and not necessary.
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:16 AM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild



Oh great I just replace my engine brace with a new stock one.  The old one was damaged.  Will keep my eye on it and swap out for the other when I need to.  I also put in the hardened chassis plate. 



Quick list of what has been changed so far. Off the top of my head.



New body, engine brace, all the pinion and spur gears, chassis plate to hardened one, screws out for stainless steel, fresh seals and short springs for muffler, new fuel hoses, shock covers.  Waiting for new clutch bell and aluminum clutch shoes.  



Plant to upgrade receiver to 2.4ghz, and up grade servos.  



Any one use third party clutch systems?? 




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Old 12-19-2011, 08:58 AM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

IMO the stock alu Losi clutch is very good and lasts reasonably long.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:04 AM
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I've ran LST platform trucks for 3 years now, about 5 gallons of fuel collectively in that time. In my experience, I havent had a problem with the stock engine brace, stock engine mounts, clutch shoes, or spur/clutch gears. I dont abuse my trucks, but I do give them a "workout". I'm at about 3 gallons on the Mach 427, which has Dynamite long-life clutch shoes and these shoes are just about wore down to the clutch spring wires. (1 gallon was from the previous owner who was a little harder on it than I am) The stock shoes on my SH .28 were barely used when they went on and are in good shape after 2 gallons. The key to long lasting clutch shoes is to trim the burrs every half gallon or so.

The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.

edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
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Old 12-23-2011, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r

I've ran LST platform trucks for 3 years now, about 5 gallons of fuel collectively in that time. In my experience, I havent had a problem with the stock engine brace, stock engine mounts, clutch shoes, or spur/clutch gears. I dont abuse my trucks, but I do give them a ''workout''. I'm at about 3 gallons on the Mach 427, which has Dynamite long-life clutch shoes and these shoes are just about wore down to the clutch spring wires. (1 gallon was from the previous owner who was a little harder on it than I am) The stock shoes on my SH .28 were barely used when they went on and are in good shape after 2 gallons. The key to long lasting clutch shoes is to trim the burrs every half gallon or so.

The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.

edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
I think I had mine about 3 years ago, you want to change out the motor brace. Years ago when the losi MT section of RCU was heavily occupied, alot of the pros who raced and didnt would all agree about the motor brace. If you don't take it off a few jumps every now and then, your missing the point of a MT. Buts to whos his own. On a LST (1-2 and XXL) the motor brace is really all you need to upgrade. For Aftershock, Raminator, Mega baja etc you'll need a bit more in upgrades (Clutch shoes, throttle linkage and HT pipe)
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Old 12-24-2011, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc



Anyone use third party clutch systems??
Give Mitch at [link=http://www.m2cracing.com]M2C Racing[/link] a call. A few of us helped him fine tune his 4 shoe clutch for the LST, comes with different shoes, and is a far better set up than stock. Also, his adjustable engine mount is a must when using the 4 shoe clutch - holds my Clockworked Picco power down very well, when the stock used to slip
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Old 12-24-2011, 07:54 PM
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Great info every one. 



Marry Christmas to all.



Found out why the gears where so messed up the bushings where missing inside of the spur gear shaft.  Do not remember seeing them come out when I took it apart, and is a wobbly fit.  So of course I have already sent in an order then found out the missing bushings.  Oh well friend of mine putting in a order in the next bit will get them then.  Any one know what the measurements of the bushings are? (LOSB3401)

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Old 01-10-2012, 04:55 PM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

Ok so I think i got it all together now. Just need some fuel.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:23 PM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

Quick question would a nitro motor run on diesel fuel??

Found out the ancwer . They can but requier moding, and the fuel is even more expensive.

So my new question is, can you use diferent grades of fuel like go from 20% up to 25%?


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Old 02-04-2012, 04:56 PM
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Update:

Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.  

We filled are tanks.  He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls.  Well the  MAch did not want to fire.    All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter.  The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown.  Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it.   The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough??  Was using a reguar glow ignighter.  Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold.  After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill.   It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going.   We tried various richness but to no avail.

Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc

Update:

Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.

We filled are tanks. He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls. Well the MAch did not want to fire. All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter. The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown. Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it. The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough?? Was using a reguar glow ignighter. Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold. After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill. It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going. We tried various richness but to no avail.

Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
Either your Idle mixture is way too rich or you overprimed the engine, or your idle is too low. You will strip your spinstart/pullstart in short order if it gets flooded. Check your glow driver on the glow plug in the truck before starting it to make sure the plug is lighting up. Lean your low speed needle 1/8th turn, and try again. When you prime the engine, only prime it enough for fuel to just reach the carb and just a little extra. If you're not sure if you got enough in there, rotate the flyweel and listen for a slight gurgling sound. If you do, you're ready to go. If no gurgle, prime it just a little bit more and try starting it. If it still wont start, give the idle speed screw a 1/4 turn clockwise and repeat the process.

As far as the fuel/oil coming form the pipe - this is normal on a used pipe. The fresh fuel washes away some of the oil varnish inside the muffler. No big deal here.

Lastly, 20% nitro fuel is fine. More than that is sort-of a waste IMO, unless you're racing.
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Old 02-05-2012, 02:26 PM
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Ok cool. After thinking about it may have been flooded.
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:53 PM
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Ok so i got the beast to fire up. Now when I give it gas it stalls out on me. Was able to get it to run up my driveway but when I try and go more than half throttle it stalls out on me. Another thing I found was things got stuck could not turn it over till I took out the glow plug.



Here is a vid of it just running.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vADwwdTq8Sw&list=UUxXVeg2e2R98nBEmRCc1dLQ& index=2&feature=plcp[/youtube]

I have taken it back to the bench and set the tuning to what is listed as factory setting but have not run it again.

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Old 02-17-2012, 01:43 PM
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[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmLVdg9AosE&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]



Snow run

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Old 02-17-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmLVdg9AosE&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]



Snow run

Watch the exhaust header for cracks after running in snow. I've cracked 3 losi headers on my LST2's after a good bash in the snow.


Also, your a bit rich on the needles from the sounds of it.
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:00 AM
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Ok good tips.  I just glad to get it up and running.  Will tweek it more as I go forwards. I like having the on board igniter saves having to carry around that one more piece though still keep one in the tool kit as back up.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc

Ok good tips. I just glad to get it up and running. Will tweek it more as I go forwards. I like having the on board igniter saves having to carry around that one more piece though still keep one in the tool kit as back up.
Are you running it with a glow driver attached all the time?
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:14 AM
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Default RE: LST Rebuild

I installed a Pushglow starter

http://switchglo.com/shop/product_in...hsbi6mpiuqgs23
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