LST Rebuild
#26
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RE: LST Rebuild
I had an FOC Aftershock transmission in at first, but later got an XXL transmission for the bettter gearing, and just left in reverse. So yeah, it has reverse in it.
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RE: LST Rebuild
Ah ok cool just wondering if that would have been a help or not.
Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
#28
RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc
Ah ok cool just wondering if that would have been a help or not.
Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
Ah ok cool just wondering if that would have been a help or not.
Ok what kind of experance has people had with spoke rims as aposed to using ones with just holes?? One stronger than other or just more a looks thing?
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
That guy is probably me. Some guys have had better luck maybe, but over the long run, IMHO an LST2 - as long as you want to keep the 2-speed and NOT convert to single-speed - does not work well with smaller tires. I have a second LST2 that I wanted to make a ''track-only'' near-truggy kind of truck - Muggy shocks, sway bars, 17mm hexes with truggy tires, etc.., and it was a horrible nightmare. The 2-speed somehow won't engage if the tires are too small and light.. It had phases when it did work, but more often than not it didn't. And I had installed whole new transmissions, 2-speeds, clutches, you name it.. Totally irritating problem. Give gas, and the engine just revs with no load.. Then sometimes it would CLICK! and work.. Then it would CLICK! back out and not work.. Total PIA. I now have big HPI Savage XL Terra Pins on it, and it goes flawflessly. Just not so great for running on a track..
I read up on this lots, had people tell me the cam was worn, of flawed from factory, or I needed to clean the 2-speed, or do this or do that. All useless IMO. IMO the design of the truck somehow just doesn't allow for the 2-speed to work right with the smaller, lighter tires. I literally tried three whole separate transmissions, three 2-speed units, went to a new clutch, experimented with tightening the slipper all the way down, cleaned everything repeatedly, you name it. After the last time, having installed a brand new clutch and brand new 2-speed and brand-new XXL transmission, and taking it out to have it start slipping out and disengaging within half a tank, I have given up completely on running truggy tires on it. Unfortunately. Because as it's setup now, it handles really well on the track..
So anyway, yeah, that's my explanation.. Get some Axial 40 series rims or something. Or 40 series anything - but not MT or LPR...
That guy is probably me. Some guys have had better luck maybe, but over the long run, IMHO an LST2 - as long as you want to keep the 2-speed and NOT convert to single-speed - does not work well with smaller tires. I have a second LST2 that I wanted to make a ''track-only'' near-truggy kind of truck - Muggy shocks, sway bars, 17mm hexes with truggy tires, etc.., and it was a horrible nightmare. The 2-speed somehow won't engage if the tires are too small and light.. It had phases when it did work, but more often than not it didn't. And I had installed whole new transmissions, 2-speeds, clutches, you name it.. Totally irritating problem. Give gas, and the engine just revs with no load.. Then sometimes it would CLICK! and work.. Then it would CLICK! back out and not work.. Total PIA. I now have big HPI Savage XL Terra Pins on it, and it goes flawflessly. Just not so great for running on a track..
I read up on this lots, had people tell me the cam was worn, of flawed from factory, or I needed to clean the 2-speed, or do this or do that. All useless IMO. IMO the design of the truck somehow just doesn't allow for the 2-speed to work right with the smaller, lighter tires. I literally tried three whole separate transmissions, three 2-speed units, went to a new clutch, experimented with tightening the slipper all the way down, cleaned everything repeatedly, you name it. After the last time, having installed a brand new clutch and brand new 2-speed and brand-new XXL transmission, and taking it out to have it start slipping out and disengaging within half a tank, I have given up completely on running truggy tires on it. Unfortunately. Because as it's setup now, it handles really well on the track..
So anyway, yeah, that's my explanation.. Get some Axial 40 series rims or something. Or 40 series anything - but not MT or LPR...
If I can find someone to loan me a set of 30-sized tires, I'd put 'em on one of my LST2's and see if I could get it working. I think a 2spd adjustment and a different spur gear would do the trick. Though I dont race, it'd be merely for my own (and whoever reads my post afterward) information.
I dont remember off-hand actual tooth numbers, but in terms of potential top speed, LST/2/AFT trans gears is slowest, XXL is faster, and BL conv. kit trans gears are the fastest. I want to try the BL gears in one of my trucks if they sell the two gears seperately from the conversion kit.
anyway.. enough of my banter. Long live the LST!
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RE: LST Rebuild
Is it worth getting the finned engine mount?
Yes I am building up my purchase lists trying to figure out the fluff and must haves. I am keeping the revers gearing and at some point will get a servo for it.
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RE: LST Rebuild
Change out the motor brace under the chassis. I think Dynamite RC still sells them somewhere ($20). Also the receiver box could be replaced for pretty cheap
#31
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RE: LST Rebuild
I don't think you need a new engine mount - just my opinion.
Great upgrades IMO are RC Raven springs, New Era rollbar(if you plan on bashing much..), wing kit, and maybe RPM arms, though I've never thought they are strictly necessary..
The area I would invest in - as with all RTR's, is servos. I've never done this because for bashing I get by with stock. But I would like at least something faster on throttle..
Depending on what wheels you want you might need to switch to 17mm hubs. Then you can run Axial rims or HPI Savage XL Terra Pins..(see ebay..)
Engine-wise, the new LRP .32 is out too............
Great upgrades IMO are RC Raven springs, New Era rollbar(if you plan on bashing much..), wing kit, and maybe RPM arms, though I've never thought they are strictly necessary..
The area I would invest in - as with all RTR's, is servos. I've never done this because for bashing I get by with stock. But I would like at least something faster on throttle..
Depending on what wheels you want you might need to switch to 17mm hubs. Then you can run Axial rims or HPI Savage XL Terra Pins..(see ebay..)
Engine-wise, the new LRP .32 is out too............
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RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage
I don't think you need a new engine mount - just my opinion.
I don't think you need a new engine mount - just my opinion.
From the factory they suck. This will cause you to go thru the tranny and clutch gears rapidly. You won't notice that its crack untill you take it off and its split in two. Anyone whos owned a LST platform and has done a tare down knows those crack VERY easily. I didnt bother to heed to that advise till I went thru gears and eventually looked at the engine brace. Yes it was cracked
#33
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RE: LST Rebuild
Sorry - vocabulary misunderstanding. Yes, the engine BRACE down under the chassis is known to suck, and it is always advised to get the Dynamite one.
What I was talking about were the normal engine mounts that the engine mounts to for mounting to the chassis. Zero problem there. Special finned mounts or whatever are only bling IMO and not necessary.
What I was talking about were the normal engine mounts that the engine mounts to for mounting to the chassis. Zero problem there. Special finned mounts or whatever are only bling IMO and not necessary.
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RE: LST Rebuild
Oh great I just replace my engine brace with a new stock one. The old one was damaged. Will keep my eye on it and swap out for the other when I need to. I also put in the hardened chassis plate.
Quick list of what has been changed so far. Off the top of my head.
New body, engine brace, all the pinion and spur gears, chassis plate to hardened one, screws out for stainless steel, fresh seals and short springs for muffler, new fuel hoses, shock covers. Waiting for new clutch bell and aluminum clutch shoes.
Plant to upgrade receiver to 2.4ghz, and up grade servos.
Any one use third party clutch systems??
#36
RE: LST Rebuild
I've ran LST platform trucks for 3 years now, about 5 gallons of fuel collectively in that time. In my experience, I havent had a problem with the stock engine brace, stock engine mounts, clutch shoes, or spur/clutch gears. I dont abuse my trucks, but I do give them a "workout". I'm at about 3 gallons on the Mach 427, which has Dynamite long-life clutch shoes and these shoes are just about wore down to the clutch spring wires. (1 gallon was from the previous owner who was a little harder on it than I am) The stock shoes on my SH .28 were barely used when they went on and are in good shape after 2 gallons. The key to long lasting clutch shoes is to trim the burrs every half gallon or so.
The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.
edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.
edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
#37
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RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: 1QwkSport2.5r
I've ran LST platform trucks for 3 years now, about 5 gallons of fuel collectively in that time. In my experience, I havent had a problem with the stock engine brace, stock engine mounts, clutch shoes, or spur/clutch gears. I dont abuse my trucks, but I do give them a ''workout''. I'm at about 3 gallons on the Mach 427, which has Dynamite long-life clutch shoes and these shoes are just about wore down to the clutch spring wires. (1 gallon was from the previous owner who was a little harder on it than I am) The stock shoes on my SH .28 were barely used when they went on and are in good shape after 2 gallons. The key to long lasting clutch shoes is to trim the burrs every half gallon or so.
The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.
edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
I've ran LST platform trucks for 3 years now, about 5 gallons of fuel collectively in that time. In my experience, I havent had a problem with the stock engine brace, stock engine mounts, clutch shoes, or spur/clutch gears. I dont abuse my trucks, but I do give them a ''workout''. I'm at about 3 gallons on the Mach 427, which has Dynamite long-life clutch shoes and these shoes are just about wore down to the clutch spring wires. (1 gallon was from the previous owner who was a little harder on it than I am) The stock shoes on my SH .28 were barely used when they went on and are in good shape after 2 gallons. The key to long lasting clutch shoes is to trim the burrs every half gallon or so.
The LST1 has the same suspension and driveline as the Aftershock which has 14mm hexes. I've seen plastic hex adapters around (I have several myself) but you'll be doing yourself a favor to put LST2 arms and axles on an LST1.
edit: I noticed the OP switched stock screws out for stainless screws. My scratchbuilt LST2 (.28 truck) has a stainless screw kit in it, but I learned the hard way that SS screws holding the bumper on get bent far easier than stock. I'd keep black hardened screws in the front and rear bumpers.
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RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc
Anyone use third party clutch systems??
Anyone use third party clutch systems??
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RE: LST Rebuild
Great info every one.
Marry Christmas to all.
Found out why the gears where so messed up the bushings where missing inside of the spur gear shaft. Do not remember seeing them come out when I took it apart, and is a wobbly fit. So of course I have already sent in an order then found out the missing bushings. Oh well friend of mine putting in a order in the next bit will get them then. Any one know what the measurements of the bushings are? (LOSB3401)
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RE: LST Rebuild
Quick question would a nitro motor run on diesel fuel??
Found out the ancwer . They can but requier moding, and the fuel is even more expensive.
So my new question is, can you use diferent grades of fuel like go from 20% up to 25%?
Found out the ancwer . They can but requier moding, and the fuel is even more expensive.
So my new question is, can you use diferent grades of fuel like go from 20% up to 25%?
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RE: LST Rebuild
Update:
Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.
We filled are tanks. He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls. Well the MAch did not want to fire. All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter. The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown. Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it. The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough?? Was using a reguar glow ignighter. Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold. After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill. It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going. We tried various richness but to no avail.
Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.
We filled are tanks. He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls. Well the MAch did not want to fire. All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter. The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown. Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it. The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough?? Was using a reguar glow ignighter. Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold. After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill. It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going. We tried various richness but to no avail.
Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
#43
RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc
Update:
Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.
We filled are tanks. He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls. Well the MAch did not want to fire. All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter. The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown. Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it. The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough?? Was using a reguar glow ignighter. Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold. After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill. It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going. We tried various richness but to no avail.
Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
Update:
Ok so I finaly got a large jug of 20% fuel splti the cost with a friend.
We filled are tanks. He got his small red cat up and runing with a few pulls. Well the MAch did not want to fire. All fresh fuel lines even pulled off the filter. The fuel coming out of the pipe looked burnt brown. Lucky I have the spin start on it thoguh managed to break that in the prosess of trying to start it. The glow plug was lighting up though mabey not enough?? Was using a reguar glow ignighter. Temiture outside was only 0C (32F) so not to cold. After killing the bat. in the spinstart we switched to a coarded drill. It would sound like it fired up and I would pull the drill out but it would not keep going. We tried various richness but to no avail.
Any ideas as to what may be the issue??
As far as the fuel/oil coming form the pipe - this is normal on a used pipe. The fresh fuel washes away some of the oil varnish inside the muffler. No big deal here.
Lastly, 20% nitro fuel is fine. More than that is sort-of a waste IMO, unless you're racing.
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RE: LST Rebuild
Ok so i got the beast to fire up. Now when I give it gas it stalls out on me. Was able to get it to run up my driveway but when I try and go more than half throttle it stalls out on me. Another thing I found was things got stuck could not turn it over till I took out the glow plug.
Here is a vid of it just running.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vADwwdTq8Sw&list=UUxXVeg2e2R98nBEmRCc1dLQ& index=2&feature=plcp[/youtube]
I have taken it back to the bench and set the tuning to what is listed as factory setting but have not run it again.
#47
RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmLVdg9AosE&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]
Snow run
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmLVdg9AosE&feature=youtu.be[/youtube]
Snow run
Also, your a bit rich on the needles from the sounds of it.
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RE: LST Rebuild
Ok good tips. I just glad to get it up and running. Will tweek it more as I go forwards. I like having the on board igniter saves having to carry around that one more piece though still keep one in the tool kit as back up.
#49
RE: LST Rebuild
ORIGINAL: Muskokarc
Ok good tips. I just glad to get it up and running. Will tweek it more as I go forwards. I like having the on board igniter saves having to carry around that one more piece though still keep one in the tool kit as back up.
Ok good tips. I just glad to get it up and running. Will tweek it more as I go forwards. I like having the on board igniter saves having to carry around that one more piece though still keep one in the tool kit as back up.
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RE: LST Rebuild