BigBasher

Ok, for 3 gallons, I have been in the "Yeah, whatever" camp about the washer in the Mach .26... Super great compression, runs wonderfully, breaks CVD's like toothpicks but non-the-less, the best truck I have ever owned, yet alone played with!

Utill . . . .

Pic 1: Piston

Pic 2: Sleeve

Pic 3: Remains of washer

Pic 4: Rest of washer GROUND into casing

Can we say AAARRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!

badboy2

My Feedback: (13)

where is that washer?i have a mach26 and i wanna kno cuz it might happen to me..does it only comes with the mach26 on lsts or all mach 26s?

Pinolelst

General consensus is that Mach .26's with the pullstart do not have the washer and those with the roto-start do.

Hope this helps

Peace

Hezrou

dont want to say told ya so but................. If anyone reads this thread and hasn't taken heed of lots of peoples countless warnings about the WASHER take a good look at the pics.

It is a pity that Bigbashers misfortune and pics maybe the only way to put the point across.

Remove the WASHER

Hez

trippin_on_lst

damn i think i may take mine out.

Savage_Dias

That sucks hard. I wonder if it was a bad idea or cheap washers.


Is anyone running a rullstart on their LST?

fourwheeler

hey that looks strangely familiar....

LosiCruncher

I am curious if it actually might have something to do with the Temp of the engine. I was unable to get my car below 240 with a new engine. I have heard some rumors about the FlashPoint temp things needing calibration, so that could have been my issues. The idea I had was that when a tiny piece of metal that size gets that hot it becomes very fragile. If the washer does come off the little metal piece it lives on then there is the problem. The hole gets wider on the washer because of the heat...

In any case... I have 2 engines now, one with a washer and one without. The one with the washer is new but if it breaks I always have my trusty original.

Good luck LST monkeys.

LC

captanabolic

LosiCruncher,
A good way to see if your temp gauge is accurate is to boil a pot of water and aim the temp gun at the pot it should read 212

Sao

If you have an emmisivety settgin on your temp gauge then it sholud be set to match the type of material you are trying to meter

http://www.infrared-thermography.com/material.htm

Nitro Goose

I'm agreeing with Sao on this subject. Your "Flashpoint" temp gauge (or any other infrared gauge for that matter) will read the temp of materials differently depending on the composition of that material. For instance, in the instructions of the "Flashpoint", it gives references for setting the emmisivety level. Anodized aluminum will produce a different reading than polished aluminum or cast metal or plastics. Off the top of my head, I think the factory setting for the flashpoint is 95E (general purpose), but the anodized head setting (which more stock engines are coming with nowadays) is 77E. If you read your engine with the general purpose setting, you could get a "colder" reading. Your engine may actually be running hotter than the temp gauge is telling you!

On a side note, I agree with the "remove that washer" idea...pulled mine out before ever cranking the thing. Just make sure you have a good set of phillips drivers (and hex drivers for the rest of the car). The phillips screws holding my backplate were super soft, and were held in place with red locktite! Didn't take long to make those babies smooth and shiny! "Pass me the drill please....time for a little surgery!"

Sorry 'bout your troubles BigBasher. I had a retaining spring for the conrod pin pop out in a TRX .15 once. Made a perfect impression of itself where it wedged between the piston and sleeve!

lstmanuk

nitro goose since the back plate was held in with locktite should i put locktite back on it when i put it back together???

thanks

Sao

I did, its always advisable to loctite things that are going to be subject to vibration's