shawnre

Ok yall, I have a 24 oz hammer I am fixin to take to this damn LST, lol, just kiddin. Problem is this, when I try to start the truck, it just wants to flood. Went back to factory settings to try and work from there, but, so far, no good. Replaced the glow plug thinkin it was that, but, still no go. Any suggestions?? Oh yeah, did tighten the HSN a 1/2 turn, so, it is now at 3 turns out.

IAMTOMASS

im having the same problem i broke the roto start on the motor because it was hydrolocked. i have no idea why its flooding like that either maybe i need to use a different glow plug im using an os#8 now. when i did get it started it was just spiting fuel out of the exhaust

shawnre

Ok, after rechargin my roto battery, I am thinkin now, will an air leak cause the engine to draw fuel so that it will flood??? If so, well, even if it doesnt, how do you check for an air leak?????

Sgt. Canada

No, an air leak will make it run leaner, not richer, because it is eaiser for the engine to draw air than fuel. Recharge your glow plug ignitor, it might not be heating the plug enough for it to fire, so fuel just keeps filling the combustion chamber withough it going out.

shawnre

Sgt Canada, ignitor is fully charged, not that, thanks for info on air leak, any idea how you check for one anyhow???? By the way, noticed you have your truck # listed, lol, mine is LST #001647. Still cant start it, grrrrrrrr, hammer lookin like good idea, lol.

Sgt. Canada

I know that if you need to keep on pressing the primer for the engine to run, it's flooded. If you keep the carb open, but restrict only the air flow, not the fuel, and it runs, it also has an air leak. If you look at the crankcase very carfully and it is discolourd a tiny bit (it looks like it was heated - it has a sort of purple tone) that's where the leak is. Also, tighten down the head, check the backplate and the bearing behind the flywheel. Thee isn't one sure fire way to find a leak, I think.

jefx

The O.S. #8 is a short cold plug I believe? Try an O.S. LC3, It's a hot long plug that has given me much success. Also, what kind of fuels are you guys using, and what are the ambient temps where you are starting your trucks? Does the truck try to learch forward at all while starting?

Here's a couple tricks for getting it to start. First off, answer the questions above.

Second, put the truck on a stand to get the wheels off the ground while trying to start.

Third, pre-heat the engine with a heat gun or blowdryer.

Forth, get a fuel line pinch clamp, your LHS should have them in stock. If the engine is flooding while trying to start, then pinch the clamp shut to shut off the fuel delivery to the carb. This will force the engine to start on the fuel that is already in the crank and keep it from flooding while turning over. Then feather the throttle open and closed about 1/4 pull while trying to start it. Eventualy the crank will run dry, and the sound of the spining engine will become less laboured. After this happens, release the pinch valve (while still spinning the engine) and fuel will automatically get sucked back up into the carb, while still feathering the throttle.

The reason for this excersise is to find the right mixture for starting. By pinching the fuel line closed and then reopening while starting, you are bound to find the right mixture for starting automaticaly. Once it fires, make sure that the fuel line is open so that fuel delivery can continue at it's normal rate. After it's running, then you can make the appropriate needle adjustments to keep it running.

shawnre

Well, decided to take the engine off and check to see if anything looks wrong inside, and to clean it up. Everything looks fine, any suggestions on what to do as I put it back together?????? In other words, any place that I definitely need to make sure the seals are good, or that I should maybe add some sealant to (and what sealant should I use)??????????

Sgt. Canada

yes. The backplate and carb both need good seals. I would use Permatex High Temp Sensor Safe Silisone gasket maker, (in the black tube), but any silicone gasket that is high temp and sensor safe will work.

shawnre

Ok, got everything back together, sealed the back plate and carb with sealant, and guess what, it runs, lmao. Thanks for everyones help, but, as things always happen, it is running again, but, its storming outside now, just my luck. [:'(]

Tim29

Oddly enough I am having the same problem its just flooding itself, it won't even fire. I fitted a brand new MC59 plug on the 20th of March and had the engine tuned by a guy at the track as it was not running right the day before. He eventually got it started after about 10 minutes, but then one of my spurs stripped. So I went home and since then it has not even fired but I think it is way to rich as fuel is coming out the flywheel and the exhaust. Its odd though as I have not changed anything since the guy adjusted the settings and the temperature outside is the same so I am a bit confused. I have ordered a new glow plug (another MC59) and a new glow starter as the other one is quite old now so may not be working as well as it should.

Tim

ThermalRD

Thats kinda funny. Mine floods horribly, but its when i shut it down. I can take the truck out, tune it, and run it thru the qualifiers. One i shut it down, its instantly flooded. I almost always have to pull the plug and clear it out before it will start again. Not that its a big problem, just an annoying one at the track.

jefx

I have never once flooded mine in several gallons of fuel, and I even shut if off by plugging the exhaust.

How are you guys doing that?

theedog

I had the same problem at first but I started clamping my fuel line right next to the carb after I got done with a race. I think the problem is that the tank is higher than the intake nipple on the carb so it has a natural siphoning effect. I also moved my fuel filter back to the rear shock tower that has also helped with my problem.

numwiz

I ran thru this issue when my truck was new. The factory settings are set really fat, so breaking it in can be tough especially when it is really fat. I had to lean the low end needle a bit which helped. Also leaned the idle about 2 hours to the lean also. Trust me, I perfer the truck a bit fat thru this break in period. Keep working with it, you will get that thing tuned. I been doing this for only 4 months, tuning the truck has been the most difficult thing to really comprehend. I have been blessed to have a race track in my area with some really good people to show me alot on this topic. If you purchased thru a hobby store, see if they are able to help in tuning.

I also want to add, that mine tends to be flooded, but i usually rev it up to run out the estra fuel that has built up during idle, and shut off, this has helped me.

proxpilot

My Feedback: (3)

ha ha! i had the same problem with my LST if i transported it with fuel in the tank it would fill the motor with fuel, it didnt happen when it was new. so id have to suck the fuel out of the tank to bring it home. it's prolly that stupid primer on the tank!

hobbyadict

same here i dont kno how that do that

creyc

To those having flooding issues after shutting the engine off; always remember to bring a spring type paper clasp with you to clamp off the fuel line before shutting off the engine. It's the middle one in this picture and you can pick them up at staples or Office Depot or any other office supply store. It simply prevents fuel from being forced into the carb either through pressure in the tank or by a siphon caused by the level difference.

jefx

Or you can go to the hobby shop and get a fuel line pinch clamp like I stated above. I use it whenever the truck is not running, so that's probably why I never get a flooded engine.

Here's a couple pics of what I'm talking about. Your LHS should have them in stock. They even come in different colors to match your truck. That way you won't have to put stationary on your truck.

creyc

lol, stationary. Yea that's the correct way to do it. If only my lame RC shop would open up to the world of nitro more...