PillowPants

Are they a pain to install? because it looks to me that the whole front end needs to come off! should i let my buddy handle it, since he has experience with the lst, or should i go for it?

Nitro Goose

They're really easy to install. Just pull off the bottom alum. chassis plates (front and rear - 8 screws each). Then undo the front and rear vertical plates (4 screws each - the plate that attach to the bumpers). Once the vertical plates (plastic and aluminum sandwiched together) are off, you can slide out the left and right diff retainers (plastic pieces that are part of the bulkheads). The diffs can then be pulled out and you can replace the diff covers.

For less confusion, I'd recommend doing one at a time. These have the easiest access of any I've ever worked on. Losi was really on the ball when they designed this one.

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

IT is even easier than what was just stated. You pull the bumper off with the one long cross screw and the two countersunk screws in the fron of the skidplate. Then the 4 screws that hold the fron bulkhead on. Pull the bulkhead off and pull out the bottom hing pins for the fron A-arms. Then, pull the a-arms outward and that will pull the front d-shafts out of the diff outdrive cups. Then grab the diff outdrives and pull the diff out of the truck from the front. Takes about 10 minutes the first time and about 2 minutes every other time. The rear comes apart in exactly the same way.

A.B.U

I say you go for it dude. The more you work with it, the more expirenced you get with it.

Devilmanak

My Feedback: (1)

Geez guys, it's easier than that! I have never pulled an a-arm to pull a diff, there is no need to.
1) Bumper comes off with two screws on the bottom, one screw through the bracket.
2) Plastic and aluminum hinge pin plates comes off with 4 screws.
3) Pull the plate out of the way, the diff slides out and the cvd's pop out of the diff cups as the diff slides back.
4) For the front, the shocks will interfuere with the cvd's when sliding the diff out, so you need to take the 2 lower shock bolts out, and compress/flip the shocks up out of the way. I leave them standing straight up over the towers. I suppose for this one, it may be easier to pull the bottom pins and lower arms to avoid messing with the shocks, but I prefer to leave everything in place.
5) The only tricky part is lining the cvd's up with the cups when sliding the diffs back in. An extra hand helps, but for the first time it may be easier to just pull the lower arms. If you work on the turck on it's nose or tail, you can let gravity like the center cvd up for you as you slide the diff into place.
6) Be sure to install the diff with "up" up! I flipped my rear once, but it only took about three minutes at the track to yank it, flip it, reinstall it.

BigBoyBadToy

No doubt this is one of the easiest upgrade you could do to an lst, and was the first that I did to mine like devilmanac said 6 screws and the things just pop out. Do it and you will see why everybody says these trucks are so easy to work on, good luck...

trobbrecht

Hi, if you go to this site from Fatbear you can find detailed info on how to do it. Even with pictures, and there is alot of other info concerning the Lst.
Here is the link http://www.onesixthcollectors.co.uk/...uper_truck.htm

Hope this might help you, lots of succes.
Greets Tom

PillowPants

alright, i'll do it as soon as my buddy finishes the heat cycle break in method. It might be a few days though, he's pretty busy. I don't really mind though, because i know he's good at what he does. he makes a living building/tuning/rebuilding Nitro air plane and truck engines. Afterall, how will i ever learn how to replace a part if i never do it?

Sgt. Canada

I think that my aluminum housings are leaking... anyone else have theirs leak? There is too much space wround the bearings. Or it might be that the bearings are bad. I have about 3 quarts on this set of bearings.... how often should I replace them?