LosiLST08

Up in PA, the weather is startin to chill down significantly, and I was gonna take my LST out for a bit. I was trying to start my LST, but it seemed as if the one-way bearing was slipping a lot. So i sat there for a little bit tryin to get it started, but the one-way was slipping like crazy. Then, I remembered something about to heat up the crankcase and engine head with a hair dryer. So i tried that and the one-way wasn't slipping so much and I finally got it started. Is there something with one-way bearings and cold?

sk8ingsailor

I dont think so I think it is more on when the last time you ran it and the type of fuel that you use and some say how you store it. You should probably take it out and clean it. Mine was slippin a little about a week ago but after the engine ran a 1/4 tank it was fine.

Nitro Goose

One-way bearings get oil from the fuel (plus other crud) inside their mechanism after running for a period of time. Since cold has the effect of raising the viscosity (thickness) of oils, it would make sense that this would interfere with the proper movement of the inner rollers of the bearing. In effect, it can keep the rollers from properly grabbing the shaft they are supposed to lock onto and turn.

Here's a link to the properties of the one-way. [link=http://www.rctek.com/info_bearings_one_way.html]One-way bearings[/link]

If your bearing is slipping excessively at room temperature and above, it may need cleaning. Otherwise, making sure the engine is at room temperature or above before starting will help. The amount of oil content in your fuel will play a role in this as well. Storing your LST with the left side wheels elevated (pipe side) will help keep oil from pooling inside the one-way.

Once your engine has run for a bit and is warm, the bearing shouldn't slip much at all. If it's slipping when hot, it needs cleaned or replaced.

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

I've run my nitro engines as low as 25 degrees F. I run mine after work in many cases & have found that the secret is always to keep the truck indoors until I am ready to go romp. If I leave it out in my truck all day (In the very cold weather), it is more difficult to start. If you don't have a hairdryer handy, warm up your 1:1 and put the heat on the floor with the body off of the LST. It works great.

limetwist98

Be ready to break some A Arms in the winter. It always seems to me that whenver I go around the parking lot snowpiles to play king of the mountain I always seem to find that right chunk of snow frozen to the ground that destroys stuff. Dang fun to watch though!

Has anyone else ever had the problem of not being able to get the engine warmed up to optimal temp???? I had to rap some wire in my head fins so it would stay warm enough, took a lot of tinkerin and checkin I suppose I should have just bought another head. That takes unnesassary money though.

Dont forget to waterproof your servos
I also put just a light coat of grease on all my metal stuff to keep the salt and deicer crap from hurtin it.(makes messy clean up but isnt the tinkerin and cleanin half the fun???)

I make cardboard and tinfoil splash guards to try and keep down on the snow as well, it's fun to watch in powder, reassures me that i can not run across water that's for sure

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

In the winter, if the engine is running too cold, wrap the head in a layer or 2 of tinfoil. I have also heard of some guys using a sock. 200 degrees is the minimum that a fully warmed and running engine should be. If you are running cooler, use 1 of the methods above...or come up with your own.

gkram

What is the best gauage that you shouls have to check the temp of your engine? A cheap one too.

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

Any of the Atomik Micro temp gauges will work fine, the duratrax is good for the money as well. I have also heard the ones from Pro exotics work well.

limetwist98

Make sure in the winter time that you point and IR gauge at the top of the cylinder from the side and right close to it... for most accurate reading anyways, your temp can be as much as 20 degrees F different from the bottom of the head to the top especially in the winter

LosiLST08

I got my temperature gauge at Radio Shack. It was on sale for 20 bucks. What a deal! It works great too!

limetwist98

Is it a little oval shaped black one? If so its the same one I use and their pretty accurate, I tested mine with a hot plate that we use at the paint shop nd it was within 2 degrees of the hot plate digital gauge so thats good enough for me. Before IR people used a spit test sooooo.

AKFireMedic

My Feedback: (2)

I always take my temps at the top of the cylinder head at the glow plug. IT's much more accurate than using the cooling head temps.

limetwist98

Even pointing down through the fins in the winter wonet be as accurate

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

I definately agree with AKfiremedic, take the temps from the top and aim straight down at the glow plug. Take 2 readings to be sure.

I use a Duratrax infrared and am very happy with it. It was $20 on ebay.

LosiLST08

limetwist98, YES that's the one i use. It doesn't have to be exact to the thousands decimal for me. I just use it to give me a gauge on how hot or cold my engine is running.

limetwist98

I take my temps during the summer through the cylinder head pointed at the glow plug but not in COLD (below freezing) temps. Especially with all that moisture flyin around hittin the head. I know IR reads from what it hits, but it still isnt as accuarate when you go through huge temp differences, like what you do in the cold. Doesnt matter to me, do it how you want. Just test the difference in December and January when it is colder than hell out, go through the head and tune it to that, check the plug when your done, than try it from just at the bottom of the head from the side and check your plug, youll believe me than.

Once I have it all tuned in I'll take the temp through the head but for the initial tuning in extreme cold I go through the side and than through the head and note the difference. I also just use the temp as a basis and the actual pug as the true point whether it was to rich or lean. Cold fuel as opposed to hot fuel will make you run a little rich as well. I could go on forever about how the cold affects different things.

This is what I have learned through my own trial and error I've destroyed many of things in the process just like everyone else and this is what works for me.

Sgt. Canada

The problem with mine is it runs too hot. up to 290 just going slow, buts still with good smoke and not acting lean at all. Could it be an air leak? Maybe it's my duratrax guage... I dumped it in my fish tank a while back

Can't wait till it snows up here to run my LST!

limetwist98

Does it cool down when you run it harder???

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

Limetwist, DON'T TUNE TO TEMPERATURE....Tune to performance and then verify the temperature. I can't stress this enough. If you constantly tune to temperature, you will be running overly rich in the summer and lean in the winter.

Like I said above, tune for maximum performance, then verify that your temps are in range. If they are too low (in winter for instance), then cover the head or reduce airflow to the head to bring the temps at least up to 200. If your temps are too high (Higher than 250 or so) and your tuning is spot on and consistent, then you need to increase airflow to the head (Hole in the windshield, etc.). If your temps are too high and your tuning is inconsistent or has little effect on performance, then you may have an airleak or have a worn out engine.

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

SGT., yes, dumping it in the tank could have something to do with it.

Otherwise, theck the emissivity. Should be 77 I think.

Sgt. Canada

It's on 88. I'll change it and try again, once we get some nice weather

but could it be an air leak? It's not running bad, but just hot. In fact, very good power and still smoke, but it seems like the LSN is too rich, not very much torque. Although when I lean it it gets too hot... maybe I could lean the LSN and richen the idle?

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

SGT, I had that issue with a SH 28. It would run consistently hot toward the end of life. The needle settings had very little effect on tuning. It poured smoke at WOT, but starved at idle. Adjusting either needle wouldn't change it.

As the end neared, I replaced all of the carb seals and resealed the engine twice - both to no avail. It would run great for about a minute, then it would bog like it was rich. If I leaned it out even a little, temps went over 300 and it would smoke (out the head) and die. I had to wait for it to cool to restart. I finally checked the compression with the engine warm and there was very little - diagnosis: Worn out Piston & Sleeve.

The engine was so cheap I elected not to rebuild it and I bought a LST instead.

limetwist98

Nitronutt yeah I know I tune by ear too, My main point I was saying is that going through the head at the glowplug in the winter time isnt as accurate as from the side. Experience is the key to tuning an engine by far and I am not the most experienced thats for sure, but I am not bad either theres always room to learn. Like I said above, I also use the glow plug aftermath to tell me where I was at as well. Ive melted many glow plugs in my first truck. Fried pistons and so on anyways I keep letting these get too long, thanks for your input though its reassuring.