NJ NETS FAN

My Feedback: (2)

That happened to me today, the roto start battery went dead so i took out a drill and put the roto start bit in and set the torque on the drill(learned the hard way on the second day breakin-in flooded the engine and cracked the hex in the spin-start backplate [:@] lol) but with some time i find a drill is easier to use than the roto start unit(even though I say that I wouldn't recomend it because of the problems it can cause if your not careful(learned the hard way).

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

if you have a drill with 20+ torque settings, set the torque setting to 6 or less

offrdmania

When I got my LST2 my needles were so rich that my truck did the exact same thing. I opened my owners manual and set all 3 screws to the settings listed. It then started right up.

Mz

DIggs the LSN is quite accessable... your not talking about the idle screw are you?? because it is hidden by the air filter/head.

diggs

Ill have to check it out again because I believe that is the Needle im referring to, the one that has the little Lever type looking thing around it.

MBX5T Maniac

My Feedback: (-1)

that's the low speed needle, and it's easy to get to, if you have a long, thin, and circular screwdriver. Short also works.

jefx

Well nitro engines are very simple. There's only a few things needed to make them run:

1. Fuel

2. Spark (glow plug and ignitor)

3. Drive (shaft starter, pull starter, bump box, etc.)

If you've checked the plug and ignitor battery and they are both good..........and the shaft starter battery is strong, then it only leaves "fuel".

You say it's it's flooding out when attempting to start it. That's a damn good indication that it's too rich. Just lean out the LSN and try again. It will start once you have the needles sorted out.

One other tip that no one's mentioned..............Preheat the engine with a hair dryer. It'll help out alot .

diggs

FInally!! I mean that HSN had to be tightened about 5 full turns and the LSN about 1 turn out from max tightness.

I got through about 15-16 laps doing the Heat Cycling method and it was about 1/2 tank and it got to about 193 degrees. Going to hopefully finish tomorrow since its dark here now.

Let me know if im doing this right!!! One full tank of just letting it get to 190 degrees corerect? Im driving it in ovals, never going much over 1/3 throttle.

I found the RB mods instrucitons confusign but I think im doing it.

When im done I park the car with the Piston at Dead Bottom Center.

Correct?

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

Get to 200 degrees quickly, run figure 8's or ovals using 1-2 seconds of 60-70% thottle (Dial down the Throttle EPA on your transmitter) for the 1st 2 tanks.

Again, always keep your operating temperature at least 200. You can up your on-throttle time to 2-4 seconds of 70-80% throttle for tanks 3 & 4.

Tank 5 is nearing performance tuning. Keep your on throttle bursts at 2-4 seconds, but up it to 100%.

Tank 6 and 7 , begin tuning for performance, but keep it on the rich side. Tank 8 tune for max performance.
The mach 26 takes nearly a full gallon to come completely alive, so I assume your Mach 27 will be similar.

diggs

Nutt- I was under the impression im supposed to ease into the motor??? Im stil on the first tank right now. What do you mean by "dial down the EPA"?

NJ NETS FAN

My Feedback: (2)

Yep the drill I was using has 22 torque settings and I did start at 6 but it kept turning the drill off to easily so I think i set it at around 11-12 but I will only use it when my 7.2 volt battery goes dead and i dont have another laying around that is charged.

jefx

OK, here's the confusing part.

You are a newb................Nothing wrong with that, we're here to help. What Nitronutt is describing is the heat cycling-method. It's up to you what break-in method you prefer to use; heat-cycling or idleing, but you have to choose. You'll find that most LST owners are a bit more experienced than the Traxxas guys in the other forum, and sometimes we don't understand what it's like to be a newb.

For "heat-cycling", it's important to get the engine up to 200* as quickly as possible..................This is the preferred method among vets. here's a link: [link=http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php]CLICK.[/link]

Whatever method you choose..............DON'T overheat the engine, as it will ruin the compression for the rest of it's life.


By-the-way, I'm glad that you got the beast started. You'll be throwing the Revo in the corner before too long.

diggs

Ok cool. Get to 200 quickly, so going 70% throttle is ok....now that we got that clear how important is letting the piston rest at Bottom Center?

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

Like Jefx said, the RB method is preferred among experienced nitro addicts, like myself. It will yield more longevity and a faster motor than the idle method (The idle method was probably the cause of many early connecting rod failures). You do not need to ease into the motor real easy - read the RBmods article and apply that to my suggestions in my previous post.

Sorry, I should have explained. EPA= End point adjustment. With your JR radio, you can set the endpoint values (0 to 120 or 125 if I remember right) for whatever you want them to be. The endpoint is the maximum amount of servo travel in the direction that you allow. You can reduce your throttle endpoint so that when you pull the trigger all the way, it only opens the throttle half way, 1/4 of the way, 3/4 of the way, fully or anywhere in between. Same with the brakes. If you are doing stoppies or flipping over forward on full brakes, then reduce the brake EPA to a point where you have full brakes, but not so much that it lifts the rear tires.

Check your owners manual for precise instructions on how to adjust the EPA.

diggs

Gotcha...cool. Well its been 3 days now and 4 cycles and ive only managed to get through 1 tank of gas. I find the RB instructions pretty consuging to be honest. It starts off simple in the first paragraph and the second one gets confusing.

I dont see how I can do 3/4 gallon doing this?!?! Im on my second tank now and ive already done about 5 cycles. This could take me weeks!!! Maybe im missing something? How many tanks realistically until ive got this sucker broken in?

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

My post (Quoted here) is realistic. I (Personally) lengthen my runs after the 1st tank. I run for about 10 minutes at a time - gradually lengthening to entire tanks by 6 and 7.

Actual break-in should be considered the first 7 - 10 tanks. Beyond that, the Mach is not necessarily making peak power (That comes in near the gallon mark as stated above), but Break-in should be complete. When I say complete, I mean that you can run your truck the way that you want to...fast & hard. Use good fuel, always keep a tuning screwdriver in your pocket along with your temp gauge. Keep it 200-260 when warmed up and it will reward you with lots of power and a long life.

diggs

Ive been running the first tank until I get to 200, then I kill it and leave it at BDC.....you saying this next tank I should up to 220 or so??

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

They are talking about total run time on the engine. They say run the truck for 2-3 minutes at a time until you have 15 minutes of running on the truck, then lengthen the running to 3-4 minutes per cooldown session. When you have 25 minutes or so of total run time on the engine, you are ready to begin tuning for performance.

Averaging 2-3 minutes for the 1st 15, then 3-4 for the next 10, I only get 9 heat and cooling cycles. That isn't very long and should be easy to do. They don't tell you how long to let it cool, but I would let the engine temp drop down close to ambient temperature or 70 degrees, whichever is higher. This may only take 8-10 minutes on a cool day, so you can start right back up and do your next cycle. You don't need to put it away until the next day.

Don't pay attention to paragraph 3 as they are only telling you why the old method is no good.

diggs

not sure why its all confusing to me. Ive got about 15 mins ont he truck so far, ive been running it in 5 minute increments and just finished its first tank. I get it to 200 then kill it. Im about to go do it again to 220 for about another tank.

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

I think you misunderstood me and the RB mods directions...get it to a minimum operating temperature of 200 as fast as you can!

Don't kill it at 200!! You want to be running at 200-220 degrees for 5 minutes, not killing it when it reaches that temp!

200 is the minimum operating temperature (Once warmed) that you want to run at. You WANT to see temps from 200-225 while driving during break-in.

After break-in, normal operating temperatures should be from 210-260 (200 is fine if it is cold outside, but you want to be at least 200 degrees).
260 for the mach is not very common, but running all out through wide-open thick grass on a hot day with the body on can yield that temp. I normally see 230's when running fairly hard on warm summer days.

diggs

Great....well ive done about 2 tanks now getting it to 200 and killing it. I just read the directions again and still cant see how I was wrong. Guess it should be more clear.

Ok ill run a third tank and hope that the engine is'nt screwed up now, I do get a nasty burping from it when I go heavy on it, like a sputtering backfiring type thing when over 50% throttle.

Im really wishing I just stuck with my REVO, this is way more hassle than I was up for.

RenegadeRevo

My Feedback: (1)

LOL... keep with it, man...

Nitronutt

My Feedback: (2)

No big deal - just a simple misunderstanding. Don't give up, you're almost there. The size and durability of the LST2 are much better than the plastic geared & drive-shafted Revo, so you did make the right choice in switching. You will fall in love with it as time goes on - have no fear.

You are just learning how to PROPERLY break in an engine, you should be doing it this way regardless of brand...Revo, Savage, warhead, LST or any other nitro engine will benefit from the RBmods/heat-cycling method.

jefx

You're not doing anything wrong, don't worry about it. Your engine will be fine. Just follow the directions on RBmods and you'll have a great engine. There's many different opinions on how to break-in an engine, and Nitronutt was just sharing the method he prefers. If you go by what's on RBmods, you'll be fine.


I'm sure the Revo was a better experience so far for you............After all, not only was it prebuilt, but the engine had been already broken-in for you, and you didn't even need to learn how to use a glow plug.........Just fill up the tank, push a button, and drive...............Kinda takes all the "hobby" aspect out of this hobby, doesn't it?

diggs

Anyone removed the Fuel Filter from the LST 2? I think my headache might be from a bad one. The truck wont start at all and the fuel only seems to go right to thr filter unless I cover the exhaust with my finger. No matter what my mixture is set at.

Im pretty sure im doing everything right but I think ive just got something BAD with this truck. Also the little primer button on the tank does'nt work and dont feed gas even to the fuel fitler, its pretty much worthless.