brax

ive been running my lrp sp3 for a few weeks now and its been running faster than a dog on fire im well happy with it

that was untill last weekend and i started having all kinds of tuning problems.

to cut a long stary short after replacing the tank fuel line ect and resieling the engine ive found it to be the front end bearing

i went out and bought another lrp sp 3 and fitted that and will brake it in this weekend

but my question is how do i change the bearing?

i was told to strip it completly down and heat it up to get it out

is this right?

and having never stripped an engine down is there any guides to do this?

i normaly just bin the engine if it gives me grief but this ones only had about a gallon and a half through it so i would like it as a spare .

thx for any help !

DawgBone

there is no safe way that i know of...to replace the front bearing without taking the engine apart...being that you have another engine on hand...this would be an excellent opportunity to get accustomed to breaking down an engine...

although it should be in the owners manual....but you can easily see how things work when you take the backplate off....after that...you will want to take the heatsink off...then push the sleeve out of the block...then put the piston at TDC and wiggle the conrod off of the crank...then tap the crank out, through the back of the engine...you'll see...it's pretty simple....

to get the front bearing out...I just use a screw driver through the inner bearing and punch it out ...being that it's a bad bearing...I wouldn't bother heating up the block to get it out....the inner bearing is the one that will require heat...once hot....slam the back of the block on a piece of 2x4(wood) and the bearing should fall out....


usually...to get the front bearing back in...I can just push it in with my fingers....but if not...heat the block a little and then push it in...it doesn't require any beating...

swolrath

warm it up in the oven and then tap it on the bench and it will fall out. ive done this one a hyper 7 and it was so easy. after i pulled it apart.

brax

thx guys just pulled it apart was quite simple realy

only one prob

i didnt make a note of which way the piston goes back in

one side has a cut out on the skirt

does this face the front or rear of the engine ?

2DMaxLST!!

The lower part of the skirt goes towards the back of the engine.

I remove the front and main bearings without heat on Machs. I've not had to replace a front bearing on a LRP Spec 2 or 3 yet. I also do not use any silicon sealer on my LRP's.

brax

ok thx guys you been a big help

now to source me a bearing

DawgBone

do you have an old Mach....might be the same size?

otherwise...if you could confirm that the 457's bearing is the same as the 247.... then http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...earchkit&cat=1

mikewoodkozar

word, the 457's bearing "should" be the same size.

brax

got a friend in the uk who inports bearings for a living

gave it to him

probbably cost me 5p a bearing or somthing silly like that

he sources all my lst and savage bearings for me for peanuts

brax

ok ive sourced some new bearings out

but they have shields both sides and the one i took out of the lrp didnt

now did i loose a shield of the lrp or do i take a shield off the new front bearings?

nkbrisson

it depends on the type of bearing, if you have a steel or stainless steel bearing then it would be best to remove one side seal, but if you got the high end ceramic bearings, then you can leave them both in or remove one, its up to you in that case.