Mr.Positive

So I've just recently got an lst2 for my birthday and i wanted to make sure I know what to do before i really start running this thing. because this is one expensive truck that i don't want to mess up.
.
1. loc tight all the metal to metal gears (i will use red is this ok?)

2.heat shrink the the (grub?) screws that are near the wheels.

3.break it in through 2 tanks. (Should it be 3?)

4.loc tight the wheels on. (will RED work?)

Any other thought/seggestions.

P.S. Can't wait to kick the crap out of my friend revo. He has been bragging about "how much better the revo is." [>:]

HerrSavage

NO RED LOCK TITE!! Jeeze.. You'd make a mess..

HerrSavage

OK, having gotten that up as quickly as possible, here's what I would do..:

1.) BLUE locktite(and not big fat gobs, but just a bit..) all metal to metal.. - especially the little grub screws in the central drivetrain on the cups at the diffs and both sides of the tranny, and the top screws on the diffs... Don't overdo it on the wheels..

2.) Dynamite engine-brace..

3.) Break-in: heat-cycle.

a.) Wrap cooling head in a sock with a big rubber band:

b.) Before starting, take plug out, look down in engine, and, while rotating flywheel, look for the point where the piston is at its LOWEST point.. When there, scratch a notch at
12:00 on the flyhwheel(a sharp screwdriver should do..) This way you'll know where that point is, and how to put it there directly after running. It's important that the
engine cools with the piston at this bottom point(BDC)..

c.) When you're ready to go with the sock and all, start it up. Basically, what you want is for the engine to reach minimum 200 deg. F, then shut it off and let it cool with the
piston at BDC. There are minor variations to this, but I just basically do ten or so cylces of this, and don't go too crazy til a good ten tanks is through.. Sometimes this
takes 3-4 tanks, sometimes more.. Depends on temps.. Everybody just says make sure you get the temps up to 200 or just a bit above.. What you don't want is for the
temps to be too cold - and yeah, obviously, too hot.. 200-225 would be a good range I think.. Just get it there, and shut it off. Complete cool down with piston at BDC.
Repeat..



Here's the main text most people seem to refer to:

"If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pinthat's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shotyou have nothing to gain except longer life & more power."


This might also help:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=397

Good luck..

nitronut911

My Feedback: (2)

i use the red, but would reccommend the blue. u dont need a lot of the red , just a little

Mr.Positive

thanks a lot guys for the input. Now if i only could get it to stay running through the break in cycle. it idles for maybe 10-30 seconds at most. So frustrating. What is your needle settings for the mach 427, idle screw to please.

ARDV8

Factory settings are 2 turns out from closed on the LSN and 4 turns out on the HSN. But these settings are really rich. You could try leaning the HSN by one eight of a turn at a time. Give it a minute to take effect. But, don't get too worried at the break in stage about the engine stalling out. It will still be very tight and patience is the key in the break in stage. It won't be too long before you have broken it in.

These links might help

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5517128/tm.htm]Engine/Tuning Guide[/link]

[link=http://www.*********.org/cars_eng-tuning.htm]Tuning[/link]