HerrSavage

I'm not following this argument too closely. I know in recent years some forms of WOT break-in have become more popular, but I kind of wonder if at least part of this is something that has filtered down from pros who 1.) don't have to pay for their engines and 2.) sometimes need to break in their engines quickly at a race... Also, as for oil, I ran SW %25 for years, a fuel with a high oil content, and my engines always ran borderline too cold..(granted, with an OS A5) That said, I was always happy with how they ran, and they never c.rapped out, blew rods, etc etc.. So for me I'm sticking with heat cycling cuz I know that for me it works just fine..

supertib

I have tried many different breakin methods and to me it doesn't seem to matter much which method you use....Maybe thats just me IDK..... What I did find is the type of fuel you use can make a rally big difference.... Some high end fuels almost lubricate too well and don't seem to allow the engine to lap in properly...my personal favorite breakin fuel is the HPI purple stuff LOL ....Engines broke in quickly with very little stress on the internals...once broken in we switch to our race fuels......Myself I use the breakin bench..I idle for about 5 minutes to seat the bearings, then I slowly start pulsing the throttle up and down, slowly but surely I push the engine further and further...by a couple of tanks I am usually pumping the engine pretty good....Done hundreds of engines with this method and always get great lifespan from the piston/sleeves....... However these days I just lap the pistons to size before hand, it almost eliminates the need for a breakin...

Here is my breakin bench in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuP0H3Ot1lM

and here is the very same engine about 12 gallons later

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5qi_ImnmgI

ntrain42

Honestly, it sounds to me like your basically doing the same thing I do. Upon first start up I let it idle for 4-5 minutes or a bit longer to get it up to temp, then slap the vehicle on the pavement and go around in large ovals varying the throttle up and down from WOT to just over idle up and down the street. No clue what fuel I use, its the blue stuff, its cheap, its the recommended nitro content. I think its Traxxas Top Fuel power plus 20%, LOL Its like $20 a gallon. Has worked fine for me both on and off the track.

Jomoma726

My Feedback: (1)

So I'll be getting my 454 within the next week or so, but I still have a plastic spur gear. Should I buy the metal spur and hardened cb since I'm getting a more powerful engine?

HerrSavage

For a Savage, yes.. Not for an XXL. Stock is fine.

ntrain42

For $20 bucks more Id get a Picco from Tower with the sale going on this month. $144 for a 454? I wouldnt spend that kind of money for one. Its averygood engine, but I wouldnt go out of my way to buy one if your in the $150 range.........

HerrSavage

The 454 will rape a Savage K4.6 from the inside out - diffs, tranny, cups, dogbones, etc.. The Picco is even a bit more powerful... - and a bit tickier to tune and set up..

I agree though - $155 is steep-ish.. I paid $105 for mine, and would say $130 is about the max price.. A Big Red would be another option, slightly cheaper.. - maybe even more humane to your diffs.. - in any case plenty of power for a standard-size Savage.. I would only get the Picco if you really know your stuff.. Long break-in, narrower tuning window, you need the right plug and pipe, etc.. You would also need to do some upgrades to the truck itself to handle a well-set-up Picco IMO... As I said, even the LRP will mangle your drivetrain...

ntrain42

Yeah when you near the $150 mark, your better off looking at a Picco or Nova .28 engine which can be had for around $160-200.

Jomoma726

My Feedback: (1)

So I finally got my 454! I installed it into my savage and now all I have to do is wait for the weather to clear up

Jomoma726

My Feedback: (1)

Now that there is some decent weather around here I finally got my 454 started but I ran into a problem. I was trying to break in the engine by idling through a few tanks but for some reason it would try to go full throttle. I checked my carb slide and radio and everything was fine. Is this a sign of the engine being lean even though it's at stock settings?

I also took it to my lhs to have them look at it and it seemed fine but it wasnt off the ground like I had before. Also their nitro guy was gone so I don't think they could really help. Let me know what you guys think

Jomoma726

My Feedback: (1)

Oh and I forgot to add that it would try to go full throttle after a minute or two of idling

nitro-rob

Sounds like its getting lean.    If the needles are at the break in settings then check for blockages in the fuel lines.

sixturbosix

Ok guys I built this truck piece by piece off of ebay.CEN GST,Genesis,Nemesis parts are dirt cheap from some hobby shops at the moment.These trucks didnt sell well but they are tough as nails and the hobby shops are buying them and parting them out.I have a CEN Nemesis with GST body and wheels in the background and its only drawback is the 7.7 engine which is very hard to tune and keep in tune.I have had two 7.7 engines for it and neither would hold a good idle or run cool even after sealing them.The Nemesis in the picture is the truck I built from scratch.2 speed tranny and I used the lower gear 17t-21t clutch bell from a GST or Genesis.I choose a Losi 454 for the engine after seeing a Losi LST with this engine in action.The 454 pulls this truck at 15+ pounds like its nothing.It cranks easily and idles perfect and without a diff lock it will pull wheelies.I bought the engine on ebay,it was a (new take off)for $120.That brings the grand total I have in this truck, radio andall to about $225.

HerrSavage

Those CEN's are good looking.. Get some video..

Jomoma726

My Feedback: (1)

So I checked my fuel lines and they were fine but I think since I had the truck idling on top of my tool box, the vibration may of caused air bubbles in the fuel lines. What do u guys think? Is it possible?

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Are you saying he needs a steel spur for a savage with a decent .28????

HerrSavage

Yes, I am.

(but I don't care enough to get into a discussion about it..)

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Good, because I have about 8 gallons on the spur on my truck. Mesh it good and it will last forever no matter what .28 you stick in it.

nitro-rob

Agreed.

purenitro33

X2 ^^^ I run nothing but plastic spurs on my savage, it has a little bit of power too.

HerrSavage

It's been a while since I ran a Savage, but they used to be notorious for eating spur-gears back in the 25 days.. Then they came out with the X-generation, which had a ridiculous 2-slipper pad or something, then later they went to the stock XSS metal gear.. With my XSS, the spur gear (metal) was about the only thing that didn't cause problems.. Can't say I really ever had many plastic spur gear problems on my 25 eithe(though it did eat a few, good mesh and threadlocked engine bolts notwithstanding...)r, but there were definitely lots of people back in the day who did, and who were glad for the change to metal.. Again, this thread is not about Savage spur gears, so enough of it.. Just saying.. My four-year old LST2 has its original plastic spurs too.. So no, an LST2 defninitely doesn't need metal SG's.. Savages, I don't know (but am pretty sure it's less equivocal..) and don't care..

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

Well, putting spur gears aside, the mach engines seem to be good for what they are. However, I did have to replace the front bearing in the mach .26 on my father in laws LST. Seems to run good now, but the engine was almost new, so im betting it was faulty from the get go and so the previous owner didnt run it much. I dont like how it idles because it seems to be finicky when you try to get the idle low. He'll have a .28 engine on it soon though since he's pulling with it.

Mclovin350z

The old savages had spur trouble because there wasn't a support under the crank snout on the engine.