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Old 03-21-2009, 08:56 AM
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full maxx
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Default battery

Is [link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/20046]this[/link] a good battery or [link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/28005]this one[/link]
Old 03-21-2009, 12:14 PM
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Sugafree
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Default RE: battery

http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/show...ItemID=10426.7

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/St...ShowLarge=True
Old 03-21-2009, 02:14 PM
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Default RE: battery

Sugafree, those are both AA size battery packs, which wont fit in the same space as a 2/3A receiver pack that most rc vehicles are made for.


full maxx you can build your own 1500mah RX pack with elite cells at cheapbatterypacks.com for about $17 (plus shipping) Elite cells are good. they aren't the best you can buy, but they are FAR from the worst.
Old 03-21-2009, 02:45 PM
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Default RE: battery

Dude I'm Quite sure I KNOW What I Posted..... (maybe if you had a LST for more that a few weeks you'd be in the know of what peeps run)

And without going Lipo those are the best Packs for the LST's you can get..... Front Battery Mount Mod



Zip-Tie to the Front Shock tower,


Or you can Run it in the Rev Servo's spot with the FOC,(Like Mine)




Or if you have or run the LST1 Tank you can Fit it under the Tank after you Trim the Extra Plastic from the bottom of the Tank, (Like My other Truck)





Velcroed 2700 Mah Ballistic.




Originally Posted by Nu2the2
I went SJ & 2D's recommendation and Im very happy....I doubled up on the zip-ties to secure it's position up front....and it doesnt seem to affect air flight. It'sa Ballistic Battery.
Old 03-21-2009, 06:30 PM
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Default RE: battery

so if I build my own are the 2/3 A batteries the ones I need ... are they the same as the stockers ...and as far as soldering them does it hurt the battery to get them hot enough for the solder to melt and I guess they go + to - and the red wire goes from the + end and the black wire goes to the - end where there are no bars soldered , and I guess it is better to get the better bars to solder...oh yeah will the cheapo solder set from radio shack be good enough
Old 03-21-2009, 07:10 PM
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Default RE: battery

I've soldered sub-C cells for years, and I would guess that you could get the 2/3 a's hot enough to melt the solder, but I'd still be careful.I have a Hakko 936 soldering station I use for most solder work.The light weight irons they sell at RS won't get the cell hot enough, and you might wreck them by holding the iron on them to get them hot enough. A good setup like a Hakko will do it quickly....I would suggest just getting a pre-made pack. Getting the cells arranged, then soldering them is enough fun with a jig when doing sub-Cs, so I would want to do it with 2/3a cells.....I use a Hyrdimax 1600 MaHr pack in my Aftershock, but my radio gear is pretty basic....Futaba PCM Rx with a 3004 for Throttle/Brake and the stock 590 JRs for steering. I usually don't spend hours running my truck though, so the 1600 will be plenty. Last summer all I ran was an HPI 1200, and when I took it out and tested it this fall, it was only holding about 700 MaHr....
Old 03-22-2009, 12:22 AM
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Default RE: battery


ORIGINAL: Sugafree

Dude I'm Quite sure I KNOW What I Posted..... (maybe if you had a LST for more that a few weeks you'd be in the know of what peeps run)
[sm=bananahead.gif] Hmmm....What does me only having an lst for a short time have to do with anything?? I said they
wont fit in the same space as a 2/3A receiver pack
, which is true. I just didn't want the guy to order one thinking they would be a drop in fit, and be disappointed when they weren't.
Old 03-22-2009, 12:26 AM
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Default RE: battery


ORIGINAL: full maxx

so if I build my own are the 2/3 A batteries the ones I need ... are they the same as the stockers ...and as far as soldering them does it hurt the battery to get them hot enough for the solder to melt and I guess they go + to - and the red wire goes from the + end and the black wire goes to the - end where there are no bars soldered , and I guess it is better to get the better bars to solder...oh yeah will the cheapo solder set from radio shack be good enough
Yes 2/3A are what you have stock. When I said "build your own" I just meant go to the site and you select the cells and the pack configuration, but they solder it up, shrink wrap it, and attach the connector of your choice for you, included in the cost....
Old 03-22-2009, 05:54 AM
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Default RE: battery

ORIGINAL: dacaur


ORIGINAL: full maxx

so if I build my own are the 2/3 A batteries the ones I need ... are they the same as the stockers ...and as far as soldering them does it hurt the battery to get them hot enough for the solder to melt and I guess they go + to - and the red wire goes from the + end and the black wire goes to the - end where there are no bars soldered , and I guess it is better to get the better bars to solder...oh yeah will the cheapo solder set from radio shack be good enough
Yes 2/3A are what you have stock. When I said "build your own" I just meant go to the site and you select the cells and the pack configuration, but they solder it up, shrink wrap it, and attach the connector of your choice for you, included in the cost....
yeah I figured that out last night ...and your previous post of being a drop in ,my current is a hump pack strapped to the front tower but this is the second one to go bad there so I'm gonna wrap the new one in armorflex then strap it in...armorflex is refrigeration tubing insulation ...go outside and look at your condensing unit for your central air condition unit ; it the black stuff around the suction line (big line) ....this will be a shock absorber for the battery because I think the bouncing around and rough landings is messing them up however I do really like the idea of the battery holder on lst forums but I think it still needs some shock absorber
Old 03-22-2009, 03:22 PM
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Default RE: battery

If your Planing on using 2/3A Cell Pack...........Just get a Flat pack and Put it in the Stock Holder under the Truck.....
Old 03-22-2009, 03:35 PM
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Default RE: battery

....or go to post #4 and go with the hot set up Sugafree was showing you [sm=wink_smile.gif]
Old 03-22-2009, 05:56 PM
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Default RE: battery


ORIGINAL: TAKZILLA

....or go to post #4 and go with the hot set up Sugafree was showing you [sm=wink_smile.gif]
according to post #9, thats what he has now, but he has had 2 packs go bad in that position....
Old 03-22-2009, 06:40 PM
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Default RE: battery

If his Packs are going bad from being up Front it's because He's not got them tight enough....and I Fail to see why you'd put a 2/3A Pack up Front in the 1st Place.......

The Whole Point of putting the Packs in the Front is for the 2600Mah+ AA Packs which won't Fit under the Truck and have a LOT Higher Capacity


Like I said before if your running a 2/3A Pack Get a Flat pack & put in in the Stock holder under the Truck and forget about it




Old 03-22-2009, 07:12 PM
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Default RE: battery

I had the stock pack under the truck and I got a hump pack up front then the stocker shorted out then the 1st hump shorted then I got the current hump and after charging 8hrs it has not glitched since so maybe it just was not charged good to start with but I have only ran 3 tanks since the charge but I want to get another in case this one is bad or goes bad cause I just got that feeling
Old 03-22-2009, 07:14 PM
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Default RE: battery

hey sugafree where did you get the metal cover
Old 03-22-2009, 09:06 PM
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Default RE: battery

It's a Hardcore Racing Titanium Battery Skid... http://www.hcrracing.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=353

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