bigairlife

I dont know if anyone else has had this problem, but here it goes... In the last 3 weeks i have ripped up 2 rear diffs, and i have only ran my truck 3 times. I am running a modded Sportwerks .26 v2 that has some insane power but with the diffs shimmed properly and the slipper set at 1 1/4 turn out i dont know that could be happening. This is really annoying me and if i cant get this truck to be more reliable i might have to sell it

bigblock454XXL

My Feedback: (-1)

Be ready for people to post that the problem is you. I had the same problem with a Losi XXL and all I got was criticism on how I was running my truck. Hope you can figure it out. For me I now that when I ran it in four wheel drive I would blow the rear diff. When I removed the rear diff the first time to fix it I put the front one in the rear and ran it in two wheel drive and it was fine. When I rebuilt the diff and put it back in the front I blew the rear again. So again I took out the rear diff a second time and replaced it with the one in the front. I didn't replace the front diff and I've ran 2 gallons through my truck in rear wheel drive and I've had no problems with my diff's since. Figure that one out. Others responded with the cause being the tires ballooning in the front but not the rear because of the power and down force on the rear tires. Good luck to you though!

full maxx

try this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Case have you inspected to see if the pins are eating into the case ...this will fix that problem

bigairlife

i might try ordering that part but for now i think im just going to try rear wheel drive.  i have a diff from an xxl on order which will be here next week so im going to use that when i get it.  the only thing im worried about is not having as much in air control with rear wheel drive only...

ARDV8

The HD Diff should help. When you say you are blowing diffs, what parts are failing

RCtruckRacer

^
This.

I had the same problems on my LST2. The housing would give way where the pins sit and that throws the mesh completely out of whack. This would happen as often as just one 5 min qualifier. I ended up buying some aluminum housings, but they never sealed perfectly so when the HD ones came out I jumped on them. They are perfect, perfect, perfect. I almost forget about my difs now.

bigairlife

Alright the next time i blow one i'll order one of the HD diffs

bigblock454XXL

My Feedback: (-1)

Not to worry, all my video's of jumping my XXL are in rear wheel drive. Go to youtube. . . . Username. . . . JohnnyZ34. On second thought I'll just post the links in here. You may have seen these allready if not here they are. 3 video's. You can control it just as well in 2WD maybe even better. Almost all my jumps the XXL will get almost all the way staight up and down, I hit he brake and it lands all 4 wheels everytime. Except for the times I'm not paying attention. You figure it's all the same concept as Fourwheelers and Motorcycles. Give it a go. When you get used to it you'll like it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhFpmd4IbOQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2Z2i...eature=channel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm6QA7yVB_8

bigairlife

ur trucks looking great!  Glad to see that even on the loose dirt its still pulling wheelies with rwd only.  I might just have to try that out

khudzik

I had the same thing happen on my diffs, HD Diff Cups are a much stronger design. The metal inserts disperse the stress from the pins much better. http://www.overdriverc.com/proddetail.php?prod=LOSB3528

HPI_Savage_RC

You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????

Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.

full maxx

do you want him out of rc forever...use salvage diffs ha

full maxx

hey HPI Salvage RC here is one for ya... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7881536/tm.htm

RCtruckRacer

I certainly do not remember telling you this. And I bought an LST back in July of 2004 (2005? mr memory here...) when they first came out. Talk about diff problems - the plastic cases failed almost immediately. But today I realize that I had the brakes adjusted so it would do stoppies. If I had the brake dialed back a bit, no doubt the cases would have lasted a bit longer. But still, the aluminum cases are a must and that was one of the upgrades on the LST2.

The real issue came about sometime around 2007 or so when Losi parts either were made by a new company or a different plastic formula was used. Parts looked different - the color was a shade or two off from what they used to be and some parts started coming on trees when they didn't used to. That was when I started having problems with the diff housings. The plastic used was not as durable. Or at least that's the way it seemed to me.

One of the reasons that the Savage is able to withstand heavy abuse is that it is good at flexing on impact. This is a purposeful design that mitigates the stress from the impact across multiple parts. However, the trade off is gear mesh. Flexing changes the mesh and can propagate the demise of different gears in the drivetrain. Like everything in R/C (and life for the most part) its a trade off. Making sure not to hit the brakes or the throttle on impact will help in the longevity of any drivetrain, but especially so on the Savage.

Finally, it is not copacetic to go into any particular forum and antagonize the users therein. I have no idea why it is you feel the need to be so confrontational, but it needs to stop. And this goes for anyone here that might feel like retaliating in the Savage forums. This is just not acceptable behavior. As an MT racer, I feel like we should all be supporting each other. Our class is dying a quick death and it is my biggest disappointment in all of RC. So to see this useless bickering really pushes my buttons.

I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.

Rob

HerrSavage

............................................

bigblock454XXL

My Feedback: (-1)

I agree. Thanks RCTruckRacer.

MaddMatt

I have never had a diff fail on me yet, however Bigblock454 had several. So I upgraded mine to the HD diff housings, and I think that using a good heavy diff fluid may also help dampen the shock on the internal gears of the diff itself. But also make sure that your diffs are shimmed properly without excessive slop in the ring and pinion mesh.

HerrSavage

If you're blowing LST diffs, it can really only be one of three things:

1.) Something is not lined up right somewhere. I.e., something needs to be shimmed, or something is binding in the linkage or elsewhere, etc.. I.e., your setup.
2.) There is a quality issue somewhere. Whatever brand in RC, I find quality to be inconsistent. I've had a tough Savage, and a completely useless lemmon(not "tough" by any means - in fact the weakest, lamest RC I've had to date, and having proved unequivocally IMO that the bendier-is-tougher argument is simply, indisputably false. Seen way too many XSS plastic parts bend - then break - for that to hold up... And yeah, just because a truck has a TVP chassis, doesn't mean it's tough or reliable. The only thing really on a Savage that is tough are the lower a-arms. The rest is a c.rapshoot at best. There is NO comparing Losi to Savage drivetrains.) My first LST2 is a tank, my second one has had an issue or two(mostly the stupid 2-speed and slipper.. Fixed now with a new internal 2-speed part - 3 bucks - and the truck is running flawlessly as you'd expect...) I also sometimes wonder if the plastic or chassis plates can warp a bit and bend the chassis. I hear of guys having problems with their drive-shafts not staying in the center cups for ex.. If the chassis has gone concave, that would explain why. My theory is the New Era roll-bar goes a long way to preventing all kinds of problems - makes the chassis stiffer.. But I don't know, back to diffs. How exactly are they getting "ripped up"?? If the gears are just falling apart, maybe it's a bad quality batch or something..
3.) You're driving like a madman, landing jumps at WOT, doing lots of donuts, etc etc..

My basher LST2* is 2 1/2 years old and has never had a diff issue til after my last bash, when an internal pin broke. Replaced that, all is good.. I also had a Muggy, which I bought used, ran several engines in, including a Nova 528XR, and then re-sold after a good eight gallons of abuse. I never opened a diff. The guy with it now is running an RB 928 on the same diffs I believe. Point is, it's not normal to be blowing Losi diffs. Compared to say, HPI, Losi diffs are set and forget and not something you should even have to think about. So it's got to be one of those three abnormal things.

* My racer only has a couple gallons on it at this point, but no diff issues.

HPI_Savage_RC

Well, that comment was mostly sarcastic, but a large number of LST owners on this forum have told me that LST diffs are basically bulletproof. When I suggest otherwise, they start throwing around the insults, and the thread gets locked or deleted.

Yeah, I agree completely with this. A friend of mine owns an LST that he purchased around Christmas time in 2007. The plastic is unbelievably low quality, it's as brittle as glass, and seems to pit and chip as rocks impact it during use. This is why I can't understand why people boast about the high quality of Losi products. Maybe the plastic used to be decent, but I can't say the same for the stuff I've seen on recent LSTs.

This I also agree with for the most part. The HPI designers made an intelligent decision to go with 2 different plastic formulas in the construction of the Savage. They used a very tough, high impact nylon for high impact parts such as arms, skid plates, bumpers, shock towers, etc. These parts will absorb a large amount of energy and store it as elastic potential energy until the applied force is removed, which reduces the force applied to other components, and significantly lessens the chance of any component in the system breaking. On the other hand, HPI uses a much more rigid glass filled nylon composite for parts that are required to maintain tolerances throughout use, such as the bulkhead/diff case assemblies, the transmission housing, and the knuckles, all of which are required to hold bearings and/or gears as solidly as possible. Problem is, the diff cases do deform slightly during use, which can alter the ring/pinion mesh, and is responsible for most Savage diff failures (Unless the side bearings fail, that's a different story).

I'm not skilled at conversation. If I try to get a point across or help someone, I come out sounding arrogant and condescending, whether I intend to or not. Some people can deal with it, but most obviously cannot.

ARDV8

Post edited, read between the lines, I'll leave it at that, this forum is good, and I do not want to cause or get into any sort of flame war. Regardless of make, we MT owners ned to stick together, we are becomming a dying breed, but I'm sure people will return to MT's one day.

full maxx

no no he is always trying to start something ...read between the lines , trust me