RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
More Resources on the
Giles G-202 - 1.2
  • 5 Active Classified Ad(s)
  • See User Ratings
  • Suggest Compatible Equip.
  • Check for Retailers
  • Discussions on this Product


    • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure
    Page: <<   < prev  11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 [19] 20   next >   >>  

    Login
    Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 7/20/2004 2:56:24 AM   
    Rambo-RCU


     

    Posts: 205
    Joined: 10/29/2002
    From: Flatwoods, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		Have any of you guy's tried trimming all the colors and lines with 1/16 black trim tape.I did mine that way and it really made it pop.

    (in reply to rfw1953)
           Post #: 451

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 7/20/2004 4:29:58 AM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		When I still had mine I used a thick and thin line of blue pin striping on mine just below the yellow line on the fuse, all the way around the fuse and also to outline the striping on the wings and elevators. I thought this really added a nice touch as well. I also took the Giles logo and had in enlarged into a vinyl decal. Had smaller vinyl decals made for the wheel pants. You can see the decals and the striping in these photos below This is still one of the best looking ARF covering jobs I have seen even after it's been out for many years. You guys are going to keep reminding me of how much I enjoyed this airplane that I may just have to get another one.

    Attachments
    Click to see fullsize image.
    Click for fullsize         		Click to see fullsize image.
    Click for fullsize



    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to Rambo-RCU)
           Post #: 452

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 7/20/2004 7:18:15 PM   
    Rambo-RCU


     

    Posts: 205
    Joined: 10/29/2002
    From: Flatwoods, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		What can I say? absolutely georgeous.

    (in reply to rfw1953)
           Post #: 453

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 7/21/2004 3:30:50 AM   
    Raleigh Pilot


     

    Posts: 59
    Joined: 3/13/2003
    From: RALEIGH, NC, USA
    Status: offline     		Matt for what its worth, I mounted mine in the nose as far forward as possible. I don't use a pump or a cline with my 160 fx with slimline pitts. I am using just regular (medium) fuel tubing. Perhaps I am in for it, but so far (20 flights or so) the engine runs great and the placement of the fuel tank doesn't affect the cg to any noticeable extent. I haven't gotten it into 3d and such. We need to trim and tweak the plane some. the needle valve is trimmed to about 1and 1/2 turn open.

    (in reply to SunShyne)
           Post #: 454

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/6/2004 10:02:33 PM   
    spyder0069


     

    Posts: 306
    Joined: 1/13/2003
    From: Rochelle, IL,
    Status: offline     		I maidened my GP Giles 202 yesterday. I've got the ST G2300 (APC 18x6W) in it which had 2 tanks run on a test stand before being put on the plane. I just barely made the budget work by using standard futaba s3003 servos in it on a 5 cell pack. I am a pretty accomplished 40-60 size flyer but this was my first midwing and first 25% plane. I was so nervous reading about the stalls that people reported and nervous about all the problems with the first two series of the G2300 engine too. Seemed like I had all the odds against me. I am happy to report I had no problems at all. The G2300 ran like a champ. I was really rich on the first flight and leaned it up for the second which created a whole different experience. It was making the power I had expected from it. With the throws at the recommended minimums I had a really good first couple of flights. The ailerons were kinda touchy for my taste and I dialed them down a little on the dual rates. The elevator throw showed no bad tendancies. Of course I haven't really cranked on it yet. I always baby planes for the first ten flights and then start putting them through their paces. If fact all I tried was some rolls and a couple of loops. Still giving the engine some time to break in and some time for me to feel more comfortable with the plane. Landing...... Well I would have to say this plane floats more than my flat bottom wing trainer. I brought it in and flared a little to bleed off speed. Kept pulling back, main wheels touched, tail dropped to the ground, hit a bump in the flying field and the plane was airborne again! I could have been in a slow jog beside this plane while it did this. Gave the throttle a little goose and I was softly back on the mains again. Never had the tendancy to nose over on me and it lifts off so gently on take off. Takes a lot less speed than I originally anticipated. The standard servos had no problems controlling this plane for regular flying. I am sure once you bump the rates up to the reccomended high rates you will at least need heavy duties in the ailerons. I have no slop in my linkages (used a zbend tool for all connections to the servo horns) and used locktite on the metal clevises. Pretty much everything is stock on my plane except after initial balancing I found out at least one rumor is true. It comes out nose heavy (and this is without a aluminum spinner). So I had to move my battery into the tail. To do this I read a interesting idea about putting the battery on a stick. So I made my version of that concept by cutting a piece of 1/8" ply about 2 inches wide by about 10"-12" long. Then drilled two holes and zipped tied my battery on one end then built up the receiver section in the fuse just enough to be flush with the last former and glued about 3" of the other end of the ply to it. Seemed real strong and it helped the balacing. I only need to add 1 oz to the tail to balance it now. I didn't want to cut monokote to place it so I tried some lead melting since all I had were left over lead pieces. I took a 2x4 and used a 3/4" wood drill bit (the kind with the little starting point and then the flat blade) and drilled a hole about 1/4" deep. Then with a old pot (now designated for r/c use only) I melted the lead over a stove (yes there was plenty of ventilation). Then poured it into the wood and let cool. Result was a perfectly smooth shiny weight with a hershey kiss center (from the starter point on the wood drill bit). I pulled the rudder servo, put a little thick ca on the top of the weight and pushed its point into the balsa top. When I put the rudder servo back in the weight is sandwiched between the servo and the top of the balsa and cannot move. Worked out great. Oh, and I stole another r/c universe members idea and mounted my engine at 45 degrees as was able to use the stock muffler! That worked great too! Thanks for everyones tips and hope my experience helps someone out!

    < Message edited by spyder0069 -- 9/6/2004 10:05:02 PM >

    (in reply to Raleigh Pilot)
           Post #: 455

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/7/2004 4:01:03 AM   
    rfw1953



    Posts: 1346
    Joined: 7/9/2002
    From: Hampton Cove, AL, USA
    Status: offline     		spyder0069 - congratulations on your maiden flight and you provided a good report. I think you were smart in taking it easy as you did. You have plenty of time to wring it out once you become comfortable and confident with your set-up, the engine and airplane. I have said it many times. If you do the simple mods, listen to the wisdom from past flying experiences, and take it easy initially, this airplane is hard to beat for the money involved. Glad your engine ran well. This seems to be one of the culprits with guys not having the engine set right. They get a DS low to the ground and get too aggressive on the elevator and then she snaps and goes in.

    I would consider going with stronger servos on the elevators and the rudder if I had to choose between these and the ailerons. Take a look at the Hitec 635's. I put these in the Gene Soucy Extra with a 6 volt pack and I'm very pleased. Not that expensive either.

    Have fun and again, congratulations.


    _____________________________

    Good Luck and Good Flying,
    Roger

    (in reply to spyder0069)
           Post #: 456

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/7/2004 5:43:00 AM   
    scottfl78



    Posts: 1284
    Joined: 2/24/2004
    From: Jacksonville, NC, USA
    Status: offline     		I had my ST on a -45% angle.. Glad to see your Giles flies well.. It may seem to float but don't get to confident cause it may end up in an Oklahoma dumpster like mine did.. Anyhow good to hear about a succesfull maiden anytime..

    _____________________________

    Scott Jacksonville, NC AMA-454162
    E-Flight Blade 400 3D, Axe CX Micro, E-Flite Taylorcraft, EF Yak-54e

    (in reply to spyder0069)
           Post #: 457

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/7/2004 11:49:02 AM   
    Geistware



    Posts: 12946
    Joined: 4/9/2002
    From: Locust Grove, GA, USA
    Status: offline     		This is how a personalized mine

    Attachments
    Click to see fullsize image.
    Click for fullsize


    _____________________________

    Aircraft Proving Grounds
    http://www.rcaircraft.net/
    Information on the building and flying of Radio Control Aircraft.
    Site for hobbyist in the R.C. Aircraft modeling world.

    (in reply to scottfl78)
           Post #: 458

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/7/2004 5:14:33 PM   
    rod2_hi



    Posts: 76
    Joined: 9/19/2003
    From: Fort Davis, TX, USA
    Status: offline     		Congratulations on a good maiden, and thanks a million for the detailed flight report. I havn't been able to fly for a couple of months so I need to get comfortable with my smaller planes again before I get the Giles out. I could feel your excitement in the report, great job.

    rod

    (in reply to Geistware)
           Post #: 459

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/7/2004 11:42:25 PM   
    spyder0069


     

    Posts: 306
    Joined: 1/13/2003
    From: Rochelle, IL,
    Status: offline     		Thanks guys. Oh and about the dead sticks.... I learned flying non-brushless electrics. Dead stick is about 75% of the flight! Taking the giles out tonight. Hopefully she'll come back the same way she left.

    (in reply to rod2_hi)
           Post #: 460

    tonight's flights - 9/8/2004 2:14:54 AM   
    spyder0069


     

    Posts: 306
    Joined: 1/13/2003
    From: Rochelle, IL,
    Status: offline     		Got 4 flights in tonight and put her through some moves. As I said this is my first midwing plane and I have always been watching on the sidelines trying to figure out how these guys do such nice precision moves. Well apparently you have to start with a good plane. The Giles flies so straight and true it can make anyone look good. Rolls like a drill bit. Very axial and super quick. The G2300 has really impressed me. I am so used to .46 size engines that are spinning 15k and screaming that when I first went vertical I thought the G2300 was bogged down and was about to fall out except the plane kept getting smaller and smaller. I had no idea it was still climbing. AND.. I could hover without really working the sticks. At the top I could still pull full back and it had enough pullout to pull into a nice round loop. Impressive to say the least. The only problem at all I have had is the G2300 takes a while to spin back to idle when you drop the stick. Probably the low end needs to be adjusted just a tad but I hate to mess with it. Also with the carb all the way shut the engine still runs at some ridiculously low speed. I could almost count the rpms. I guess you could call it a extremely low idle but it makes killing the engine a bit of a chore. I have to snap the throttle real quick and then usually it will load up and finnaly die. I can live with that but the engine taking a while to back off to idle while flying is a little pain for landing. This plane really has a light wing loading and floats and floats. I had pretty perfect landings tonight but one turned into a landing, roll out, bump, airborne, soft landing. As long as your prepared its ok but remember the ride ain't over till the plane comes to a complete stop. Oh and slow on the taxies or you might not be taxing anymore. I wonder if switching to a colder glow plug could help the engine issues? I read all the hype about needing a hot glow plug and people using a OS #F in it so that is what is in it now. I wonder if I drop to a #8 or #3 could help it finally die (didn't think I would ever have that problem).

    < Message edited by spyder0069 -- 9/8/2004 2:18:20 AM >

    (in reply to spyder0069)
           Post #: 461

    RE: PROP and RUDDER - 9/14/2004 1:37:10 AM   
    Raleigh Pilot


     

    Posts: 59
    Joined: 3/13/2003
    From: RALEIGH, NC, USA
    Status: offline     		Well, I've put about 45 flights on her and I am pretty pleased . The plane is fun. I've used wood 18x6 and 18x8 so far and I like them both. However I just got an 18x8-14 variable pitch zinger prop . I'll put it on the os 160 fx sometime this coming weekend. An old guru guy said it would give me some serious pull. My next step after that will be to try a 20x6. Has anyone else used a variable on an os 160?

    Also, if I hit hard rudder (either left or right) the plane noses down relatively violently. Is this just the airplane or what? My incidence and thrust line are supposedly correct. I know I can dial in some up elevator with rudder....but that just seems like cheating What do YALL think?

    (in reply to spyder0069)
           Post #: 462

    RE: PROP and RUDDER - 9/14/2004 3:21:12 AM   
    spyder0069


     

    Posts: 306
    Joined: 1/13/2003
    From: Rochelle, IL,
    Status: offline     		I don't remember mine doing that at all. I got 4 more flights in over the weekend and was able to compare my plane with other club member's extra's and so forth. I couldn't find one plane in the same size that had the same verticle that my giles had. Many of these guy's had 2.1 gas engines and so forth. They would fall out after about a 2 second hang. This G2300 just keeps pulling up with the 18x6w. I can do a knife edge loop with it no problems. It slows down coming over the top but it pulls through nice and clean. I love this engine. When doing a knife edge I do hace to apply just a tad of up elevator to keep the plane straight. A couple other guys had to do the same with their planes so I take that as being normal. I stalled it out pretty good on one landing about a foot off the ground and I did see the right wing tip drop pretty good. Could have been a cross wind gust too but I think I was just too darn slow. Doesn't drop my confidence at all in this plane because I know I was alot slow than I would usually come in (trying to avoid a small hill in our field that tends to bounce me back in the air). I will say with the 18x6w that you do have to come in with a about 1/8 throttle because it really does act like a big brake. I put a high torque servo in the tail (the only high torque on the plane) and don't notice any diffence in flight but can tell its a lot easier to steer on the ground at low speed. I will also say the other guys at the field use double receiver packs, switches, all heavy duty servos, sometimes two pilots under the canopy. I am sure with the gas engine and all the extras they brought the weight up will bringing the fun factor down. The more I have run the engine the better the fuel economy has been. You really notice a difference once you start leaning it out and stop the tip toe breakin process. Less spent through the exhaust. Oh yeah and I love my $225 plane / $130 engine setup that outperforms their $400 Dave Patrick planes / $400 engines.

    (in reply to Raleigh Pilot)
           Post #: 463

    RE: OS 1.60 run-in procedure - 9/14/2004 5:01:38 PM   
    SunShyne