Posts: 29
Score: 100 Joined: 5/3/2010 Last Login: 3/29/2012 From: Longmont,
CO, USA Status: offline
Parkzone Stinson Reliant SR-10 PNP Review
I thought I would start a thread for the new Parkzone Stinson Reliant SR-10. I put a similar review over on RCG, but follow both sites, and look forward to a conversation here about the Stinson. While I have not yet maidened the Reliant, I can say that is a VERY nice looking bird, and expect it will fly quite well.
Introduction
I pre-ordered my Stinson shortly after it was announced. It joins a Super Cub LP (with floats that I occasionally use), a T-28D, and a Night Vapor as part of a rapidly growing collection. I really liked the Stinson for its incredible scale looks, and because I like the experience of a tail dragger, but wanted a higher performance/capability option to the Super Cub. I also really liked the idea of being able to add the flaps as an “option” to the kit, requiring only the purchase of an additional servo (PKZ1090), and a servo lead extension (JSP98110).
For perspective, Ive been flying since May of this year, and have logged just under 200 flights between the three planes I have. I consider myself an intermediate flyer, and have started experimenting with slightly aggressive aerobatics with the T-28.
After seeing several videos of the Reliant in flight, I couldn’t resist. My expectations were that it would fly much like the T-28 (which I absolutely love flying), and would serve as a good high performance platform for in flight video. While I wanted it to be a capable aerobatic airframe, I didn’t expect it to be at the same level of the T-28.
Because I had an AR6200 and four 3S packs on hand (two Parkzone 1800maH, and two e-Flight 2100mah), I ordered the PNP version, as well as the accessory servo for the flaps.
Out of Box Experience
The Stinson is neatly and safely packed. The moment you slide the foam out of the box, the first thing you notice is that this is a BIG bird. The wingspan at 49.6” is wingspan is quite a bit larger than my T-28.
Mine had a few sample “defects”: The red paint on the wing is a little sloppy in a couple of places, with some overspray into the white areas, including the front edge of the left aileron. The wing color does not precisely match the red on the top of the fuselage, with the wing being a little deeper red. The right fairing was a bit discolored (yellowed) on the inboard side. None of these really have any effect, and I ignored them.
There should have been an addendum to the manual included with revised control throws. It was not included in my box. See below.
Assembly
Assembly of the basics on this airplane was incredibly simple, and well thought out. However, with a PNP version, you have to think a little about the order of assembly, and jump around the manual a bit (for example installation of the receiver, and flaps). The manual pretty much assumes a BNF version, and that flaps would be installed sometime after the airplane assembly had been completed.
First in the assembly is the gear. It seems to be VERY tough, with three screws holding the gear assembly on each side. You need to pay attention to how the struts mate to the bottom of the airplane. After I had completed this step, I had to loosen one side and adjust it a bit to get it right.
The manual then goes to the installation of the wing – of course the receiver has to go in first.
I used an AR6200 as my receiver, and the installation was a breeze. There is a nice clip on the top of the battery box to hold the receiver. I mounted the satellite antenna on the side opposite from the ESC.
I also departed from the order of assembly here, and completed the flap installation. Flaps were much more of a trial and error affair. While the instructions were clear as far as they went, I wound up fiddling quite a bit with which hole to mount the pushrod, and getting the control horn correctly adjusted and on the correct spline.
In the end, I mounted the servo in the pocket, and then with the flaps in the “0” position, I attached the control horn on the spline. This worked fine. Note that I had everything plugged in/bound to do the final adjustments and testing on the flaps. I tested the flaps WITHOUT the wing mounted – if you do this, you MUST hold the flap servo down with a finger, or the servo just torques itself out of the pocket. When the wing is mounted, the servo is supported from underneath by the fuselage foam as well as whatever you use to mount it.
The manual also calls for an optional servo extension wire for the flaps. In my view, this is not optional. Completing the flap installation/adjustment would have been incredibly difficult and time consuming without it.
With the flaps installed/tested, the wing can then be mounted. This is a very straightforward, and secure mounting process. Parkzone has included two types of clips to hold the wing struts – a quick release cotter pin style, and a prettier “L” pins. For now, Im using the cotter pins to hold the wing struts, but once Im sure everything is adjusted correctly, I will convert to the more attractive “L” pins.
Trimming and Flight Preparation
I’m using a Spektrum DX6i transmitter with my Stinson. I had to reverse all three control surfaces to get them to move correctly (Aileron, Elevator and Rudder.
The manual provides specifications for control surface moment – this was the most significant oversight in my PNP kit. The specifications in the manual are wrong. I spent an inordinate amount of time trying to figure out how to get the surfaces to move to the specification in the manual. Many thanks to V2rider on RCGROUPs who responded quickly with the correct throws which were included on a separate sheet of paper in his kit as an addendum to the manual.
They are :
Low rates
Aileron : 10mm up, 7mm down
Elevator : 10mm
Rudder : 17mm
High rates
Aileron : 15mm up, 10mm down
Elevator : 15mm
Rudder : 22mm
Flaps
Half : 15mm
Full : 25mm
I have not yet figured out whether I can implement two flap positions with my DX6i. For now I have the throws set at half.
While I have not yet tested CG, it is to be 55-65mm back from the leading edge at the wing root +/- 6.4mm. Parkzone set this based upon an 1800maH battery in the center position in the battery compartment. This is what I will use for the maiden.
Taxi testing was uneventful. The Stinson tracked perfectly straight the first time. Giving it a little bump of power showed that it accelerates very quickly, and when letting off the power resulted in a tendency to turn right. Once kinda cool unexpected thing was that the servo lights provide a dim orange light in the cockpit. It looks VERY cool at night!
UPDATE After setting control throws to those listed above, I took the SR-10 back out to taxi test again. Got a little head of speed up, and suddenly it veered hard left. Turns out the bushing that holds the tail wheel in place had broken. HH has agreed to send me a new tail wheel assembly, but Ive attempted repair (epoxy) myself. Not sure it will hold, but worth a try to save the Maiden day.
Maiden Flight
The maiden flight was Tuesday evening September 28th. It was clear and calm. The "runway" (a road in an incomplete subdivision) is currently flanked by 18-24" high weeds. The battery (PZ 1800maH that came with my Trojan) was set in the center of the battery compartment, and the CG was 60mm back from the leading edge. I had flaps down (half, 15mm), and was on the low rates.
On the first take off attempt I veered left once I got to full throttle. The Stinson started to lift off, and unfortunately, caught a wingtip in the high weeds. The result was a bit of a bend in the gear, but no other damage.
After checking everything out (had to reseat the battery) the second take off attempt I over corrected, and veered right, and into the weeds (soft stop).
The third time is always the charm isnt it... Attempt #3 was straight down the runway with a beautiful scale liftoff to the east. With the late day light, the red on the wing was just spectacular looking as it climbed out. Once airborne, put the flaps up, and you can actually see it "jump forward" a bit. It was quite a bit nose heavy, so I had to put in 6-8 clicks of up trim to maintain altitude. Once trimmed, I switched it into high rates. This is one very handsome bird in flight. It handles wonderfully - while it is not as responsive as the T-28, it was almost exactly as I expected it would be. It loops well, majestic is the word that came to mind. The roll rate was fairly slow, and I lost quite a bit of altitude on an aileron roll to the right. That should improve once I can speed it up a little with the CG back a little more, and less (no) up trim.
I set up a couple of approaches just to see how it behaved in the pattern, and it is very mild mannered. Kicking in the flaps on final does result in a bit of float. I have not yet mixed in any down elevator with the flaps, but that should compensate for it. Landing was smooth as silk - with the flaps in it's slow and easy all the way to touchdown. With a little up elevator, the tail settled quickly, giving steering from the tail wheel.
Rating
PRE-Maiden rating – based upon the assembly, and quality out of the box, I would rated the Stinson 4 out of 5. While merely cosmetic, the paint inconsistencies are mildly annoying. The manual could have been organized a little more logically to consider the PNP model.
Now that I've maidened the SR-10, I would rate it at least a 4.5. Its a spectacular plane in flight, and well mannered in every way. I expect roll rate to improve with some CG adjustment. I love the flaps, a very nice touch from Parkzone. While my first two take off attempts (ahem... if I can call them that) were rough, I think its just a matter of getting used to how it behaves (it is quite different from the Super Cub). Thanks to the flaps, the Stinson was by far the easiest maiden flight landing Ive experienced.
Happy flying!
< Message edited by milehighjc -- 9/29/2010 5:41 PM >
Posts: 106
Score: 145 Joined: 10/29/2003 Last Login: 12/13/2012 From: Columbus,
OH, USA Status: offline
Great pre-flight review, thanks! Look forward to flying my own whenever I decide to get one.
I can't agree more on how awesome it is that this plane has the option for flaps! I love it, will definitely add the flaps, and really hope PZ continues and expands on this new-to-them idea of offering additional features. Flaps and detracts would be SWEET, especially on a warbird!
_____________________________
Super Cub - Converted to DSM2; MS Composit Unique, PZ Corsair (resurrected), T-28, Habu, P-47, & UM Sukhoi 26xp.
Posts: 1
Score: 100 Joined: 5/23/2010 Last Login: 11/13/2012 From: Tualatin,
OR, USA Status: offline
After learning on the HZ Super Cub for the past 3 months, I stepped up to the Stinson and conducted the maiden flight yesterday. On mine, placing the stock battery in the center of the tray resulted in a tail heavy airplane and fortunately a more experienced pilot was able to help me bring it back on the ground safely. We moved the battery all the way forward and the 2nd flight was much better. The approach and landings seemed quite a bit faster than I am used to and the landing roll outs were long. I do like the airplane and am looking forward to more flight time to get it dialed in.
Posts: 1
Score: 100 Joined: 10/14/2010 Last Login: 10/16/2010 From: Darien, IL, USA Status: offline
I installed the Park Zone SR-10 motor mount and installed the motor to it, using Loctite "Thread Locker BLUE #242" to secure and hold the mounting screws. I mounted the assembly to the firewall but did not use the Loctite, (FORTUNATELY).
The next day I installed the prop and while tightening the prop I noticed the motor was loose and wiggling. I removed the prop and cowl and discovered that the Loctite had dissolved the motor mount holes, which caused the wiggling and looseness. I was shocked.
I had to remove the motor and all traces of the Loctite, then fashion a1/8" plywood piece, the full diameter of the mount. Next I had to roughen the plastic mount and plywood and use JB Weld epoxy to affix the two. Then drill the plywood for the motor holes. After reinstalling the restored motor mount it is now secured and working fine.
BE AWARE, DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON THIS PLASTIC MOTOR MOUNT
Posts: 12
Score: 100 Joined: 6/25/2010 Last Login: 5/14/2011 From: Seattle, WA, USA Status: offline
HI ! GREAT REVIEW, VERY INFORMATIVE. I GOT MINE AWEEK AGO AND AM STILL TUNING IT BEFORE FIRST FLIGHT AND WAITING ON THE WEATHER ( SEATTLE GO FIGURE, RAINS ALL THE TIME). I HAVE A DX7 TX AND DON'T HOW TO CHANGE FROM LOW TO HIGH RATE ??? IT IS A STUNNING AIRCRAFT AND CAN'T WAIT TO TRY IT. ERIJOH
Posts: 29
Score: 100 Joined: 5/3/2010 Last Login: 3/29/2012 From: Longmont,
CO, USA Status: offline
I have not flown the Extra, but I'm positive that its more stable by design than the extra. Im not sure I would describe it as a trainer however. As a tail dragger, ROG take offs require a bit of concentration. If you install the flaps, It will take off VERY quickly (in a good way). With flaps deployed, it will slow down very nicely for landings as well.
In flight, once trimmed it is a fantastic flyer. Its like it is on rails - very precise. It is capable of basic aerobatics, (loops, rolls, hammerhead, half cuban 8s, etc) but is not nearly the aerobat that the T-28 Trojan is. It's much more of a scale flyer. I think of trainers as being pretty self correcting. The Stinson has no dihedral, so its really not a self correcting bird. It will pretty much go where you tell it to. Its also MUCH faster than my HZ Super Cub.
Depending on what is in your hangar, I HIGHLY recommend this airplane. I've really been enjoying it, and it never fails to draw a crowd. If you are looking for a scale flyer that is relatively relaxing to fly, is beautiful in the air, and a solid 4 channel performer, its the right bird.
Posts: 8
Score: 100 Joined: 10/25/2010 Last Login: 7/27/2012 From: Millis,
MA, USA Status: offline
I have a few Ultra micros but the Stinson is my first big electric, and this is my first post! I'm sure I'll have many more questions, but just one today. I opened up the box and looked things over, everything looks good except for the fact that the ESC is just flopping around in there. Shouldn't it be secured somehow? If so, where and how? Thanks in advance for the help. What a beautiful plane! OK, I lied, here's a second question....I do pretty good flying and landing my UM T-28 and UM P-51. Anything in particular I should keep in mind on my first flight (other than "Don't crash")?
Posts: 157
Score: 105 Joined: 10/16/2010 Last Login: 3/14/2011 From: groveport,
OH, USA Status: offline
rrhea-welcome-i am also new to the sight and the sport-the esc floating around is not to alarm-both of the esc's i had in my extra were floating around in the fuze-u can secure them, and it would probably b a good idea but dont do it with something permanent-(gorrilla glue, super glue)use soomething easily removeable(velcro, tape, wireties)-somethin that can b removed without alot of effort-if u need too unhook the motor or somethin it could b a pain-and as for the "watch out for this on takeoff'-find a big parking lot and do high speed taxis-build up just enuf speed where the plane acts like it would lift off but dont pull back on the elevator-this will make something that is WAY off show itself-i did this with my extra and found a couple of things that would have probably been disasterous to an inexperienced pilot(i.e.ME!)
Posts: 157
Score: 105 Joined: 10/16/2010 Last Login: 3/14/2011 From: groveport,
OH, USA Status: offline
went over to rcg-seems there is an issue with the gear on this one also and PZ is acting like they dont know anything about it-wake up HH-they got employees on this site watching and posting-they know-they rnt stupid-these r people with BA's-neglect sounds closer to me-anyway, i guess if u dont have any mishaps or hard landings and u r a perfect pilot the gear shouldnt b an issue-what attracts me 2 this plane is the size, flaps,high wing,and hopefully a little bit of docileness(is that a word?-i dont have a BA like the folks at HH)-i will probably still get it, but im gonna hafta redisign the gear so we dont hafta belly land a plane that has landing gear
Posts: 28
Score: 100 Joined: 11/24/2006 Last Login: 6/30/2012 From: Luling,
TX, USA Status: offline
Besides the recommended PZ servo, what are you guys using for the flap servo? I am hearing that even with the trying to loosen the hinge by moving it up and down still makes it need a servo with some decent torque. I have a 9G servo but dont feel like wasting my time on making it fit if it wont be enough. Any other experience out there?
Posts: 8
Score: 100 Joined: 10/25/2010 Last Login: 7/27/2012 From: Millis,
MA, USA Status: offline
I used the recommended PKZ1090, it has plenty of torque and drives the flaps easily. As a matter of fact, I accidentally over-drove it while setting up the 3 position switch on my DX7 and it ripped off the wing! When installing, I exercised the flaps by hand and then tried using the end hole of the servo arm for the linkage. There was not enough torque to lower the flaps, so I moved it to the 3rd or fourth (can't recall) hole from the end of the servo arm and it works fine. I was able to get the full 25 mm throw. Rocky
Posts: 8
Score: 100 Joined: 10/25/2010 Last Login: 7/27/2012 From: Millis,
MA, USA Status: offline
Well, I'm not sure if I did it the best way, but it works! Yours may tim out a bit different.
First, you have to make sure the input select is set to FLAP:SYSTEM (pg 43 DX7 manual)
Using Prog Mix 1, mix Flap>Gear Rate -84% +82% SW on Offset +105 (this is the one I struggled over. Once I set it everything started working, but I was so confused by then, I'm not sure why!) - Then, the FLAP SYS screen looks like this after I played with it for a while. I mixed in some down elevator which seemed to work pretty good;
FLAP ELEV NORM UP100% 0 MID 0% 26 LAND DN115% 58
AUTO 50% (If the switch is in pos 1 (mid) or 2 (Full or Land) and the throttle goes above 50%, the flaps go up automatically (good for aborted landings!)
Again, I'm sure there's an easier way, so if someone can straighten me out, more power to you. Even if someone could explain what the heck I did, that would be good too!
Maiden flight was today and the flaps worked great, the elevator mix seemed perfect. When the flaps came down it just slowed the plane, it didn't float much.
Posts: 8
Score: 100 Joined: 10/25/2010 Last Login: 7/27/2012 From: Millis,
MA, USA Status: offline
One more thing about setting up the flaps! I just looked in the DX7 manual to see what the offset is on the prog mix screen. It is to "redefine the neutral position of the slave channel." As I recall now, that was my problem. I could get the switch to work, but it over-drove my servo until it ripped off of the wing. No big deal, as it was only hot-glued on. I used the OFFSET setting to position the servo arm in the NORM position. Then everything started coming together/
I wanted to warn you though....You may want to remove the servo arm if the servo is already on the wing. Mark the shaft, and when you get it close, put the arm back on. You can still use just the Gear switch to test position, but once you're all set up, you don't need to use it at all. May save you from going through what I did! Rocky
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Parkzone Stinson Reliant SR-10 - 
