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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 1:41 AM   
MANFRED



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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 1:43 AM   
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Status: offline 		How much does she weigh without fuel? Where did you get tht pilot? Is he full or just bust? Thanks, nice bird! wallace.tharp

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 10:17 AM   
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Status: online 		The pilot is a full body pilot. i got him from Klass cote uk but they are only the distributor. I got him unpainted as it was cheaper that way!

As for the story with the glows when the cowl is on the heads just poke out and so i can get to the plugs with ease. there is enough space to not get eaten by the prop unless you do something stupid. As for weight shes about 19lbs which is more than i expected, but the model is also bigger than i expected. At 80'' its the same span as my esm la7 and they are the same scale (approx 1/5th) and yet the P39 is BIG next to the La7. The Laser 240 will take that 18x8 to about 8400 or a 19x8 to around 8000 so i have no worries about power as i have flown larger on less without a problem.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 1:28 PM   
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Status: offline 		How much weight are you guys adding to the nose on this plane? Do you think the DLE 35 rear exhaust would fit in the front with the nose gear?

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 3:34 PM   
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Status: online 		With the P39 you will always need weight in the tail i expect.

As the full size had its engine in the middle the nose is much longer than on other aircraft to allow the correct c/g on the full size. The full size c/g was marginal at best anyway as firing all the ammo from the front mounted weapons made the aircraft tail heavy and thats when it could enter a flat spin if flown badly. As we are putting the engine in the nose not in the middle then we will always end up nose heavy. Flat spins should not be a problem

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 5:52 PM   
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Status: offline 		Obviously we need to put a g-26 marine engine inthe middle with a driveshaft and use one of the new CPU water cooled radiators that super fast gaming computers use. It comes with pump and a tiny 3X5 raditator.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 8:06 PM   
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Status: online 		The uk importer has a kit half price at the moment with slight shipping damage. i am tempted to buy it and have a go some time in the future. I would use a Laser 300v for power if i were to do it, i dont know if i would try watercooling or just very well ducted air....i need to think about it.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 11:11 PM   
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< Message edited by Mr DJ -- 12/31/2012 5:22 AM >

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/21/2012 11:51 PM   
Carosel43


 

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Status: online 		Hi DJ

Personally i dont think 30cc will be giving any trouble performance wise. especially as the P39 is a warbird and not a rocket!

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/22/2012 12:02 AM   
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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/22/2012 3:40 PM   
Carosel43


 

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Ok for those asking about my u/c doors i forgot i did this little video! the quality is very poor i know, but you get the idea. i will do a better video when i have the model all pu together again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0ThyirYeoQ



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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/22/2012 3:44 PM   
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Status: offline 		Carosel43,

So what's the news on that new Zero...I'd love to know?

Casey

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/22/2012 4:04 PM   
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Status: online 		I do not have details yet, only one small picture. The info i have so far though is that its 80'' span and was flown on a 50cc engine which gave more than enough power. It is supplied in the white paint job applied to a6m2's i will try and get more info

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/22/2012 4:11 PM   
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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/23/2012 8:48 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Carosel43

Ok for those asking about my u/c doors i forgot i did this little video! the quality is very poor i know, but you get the idea. i will do a better video when i have the model all pu together again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0ThyirYeoQ



Carossel43, nice vid! I finally got my ESM P-39 Version 3 to work right. Thomas at VQ sent me a new control box which I tried with a fresh 6vlt NiCad , and then a made up pack with double A's. No go. Then I discharged a 7.2 vlt rc car battery to 7.0 vlts , they show 7.4 as max and I didn't want to toast another box. Works great! Now I need to locate a lighter battery of about 7 vlts. Somebody says they make a 123 that might work. The 6 vlts would never activate all 3 gear at the same time. I think I am going to like them. Sent off to Tower for interior green paint, I tried zink chromate green on the seat and as ty says in his vid, it's correct for scale, but interior green looks etter. Couldn't find any spray cans in that color anywhere. Merry Christmas everyone Hope you get RC stuff for presents! I got a 40 Cub on floats! Santa is good to us. wallace.tharp

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/24/2012 9:37 AM   
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Status: online 		Hi wallace. My retracts are the final generation air retracts that esm did. I have had no problems with the esm retracts on my La7 so am happy to use them. in any case if i did ever use electric retracts i would use a separate battery for the gear as i just wouldnt trust that kind of current draw through the rx. Also in the event that something did go wrong i wouldnt want my flight battery being drained. Its easy enough to setup as well with a modification to a std Y lead.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/24/2012 11:51 AM   
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Status: online 		look what i found!



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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/24/2012 3:07 PM   
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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/30/2012 2:53 AM   
AZThud


 

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Status: offline 		I took some advice from Carosel and decided to install my elevator and rudder servo in the rear of the fuselage.     As mine is going to have a couple of big batteries in the nose it seems like a good idea.    I started by cutting our the rear access panel with my razor saw, came out OK and with some trim and filler should look fine.   When I was doing this I thought, just in case, I need more weight back here I could hinge the door and install the reciever or sound system battery, or both back here.   That made me raise the servo's as high as I could, this has me using the top of the elevator control arm and running the rod over the top of the tube for the horizontal stab.   The entire servo assembly is one piece and held in place with 2 screws and a bit of a hook arrangement that allows the servo's to rest on a bar and be trapped at the top, the screws don't carry the load and are there to hold things in place.  

Wallace I have some fiberglass shaped, that with some cutting could be used for nose gear doors, send me a PM and we can figure out how to get it to you.

Still working on the cockpit should have some pictures soon

I am also looking for some advice, I would like to close the gap between the rudder and the fuselage,  if there is someone with some idea's on how to accomplish this I would be most appreciative.

Cheers






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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/30/2012 12:22 PM   
Carosel43


 

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Status: online 		Hi Thud, your servo mounts look very similar to mine, i dont think you will have any problem at all. As for the rudder can you show us a photo of the problem? i only ask as mine is quite tight and i dont recall a big gap.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/30/2012 5:15 PM   
wallace.tharp


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Carosel43

Hi wallace. My retracts are the final generation air retracts that esm did. I have had no problems with the esm retracts on my La7 so am happy to use them. in any case if i did ever use electric retracts i would use a separate battery for the gear as i just wouldnt trust that kind of current draw through the rx. Also in the event that something did go wrong i wouldnt want my flight battery being drained. Its easy enough to setup as well with a modification to a std Y lead.


Carosel43, no problem on the V3 ESM electric retracts re separate battery. They require that for hook-up and you could not run them off of the motor power battery. wallace.tharp

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/30/2012 5:20 PM   
wallace.tharp


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: AZThud

I took some advice from Carosel and decided to install my elevator and rudder servo in the rear of the fuselage.     As mine is going to have a couple of big batteries in the nose it seems like a good idea.    I started by cutting our the rear access panel with my razor saw, came out OK and with some trim and filler should look fine.   When I was doing this I thought, just in case, I need more weight back here I could hinge the door and install the reciever or sound system battery, or both back here.   That made me raise the servo's as high as I could, this has me using the top of the elevator control arm and running the rod over the top of the tube for the horizontal stab.   The entire servo assembly is one piece and held in place with 2 screws and a bit of a hook arrangement that allows the servo's to rest on a bar and be trapped at the top, the screws don't carry the load and are there to hold things in place.  

Wallace I have some fiberglass shaped, that with some cutting could be used for nose gear doors, send me a PM and we can figure out how to get it to you.

Still working on the cockpit should have some pictures soon

I am also looking for some advice, I would like to close the gap between the rudder and the fuselage,  if there is someone with some idea's on how to accomplish this I would be most appreciative.

Cheers

Thanks, Thud, I am interested on what you find out on a trial balance/cg with the big batteries up front. I will be doing same with 2ea Turnigy Nano Tec 5s, 5000mah batteries. I still plan to do the stock control horn inthe tail el and al hook ups. You might change my mind. Good on the gear doors, We could meet at AARCS on a Sat, or Aux 6 on a Sun if that's good for you. Are you friends with Chad? wallace.tharp






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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/31/2012 5:21 AM   
AZThud


 

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Status: offline 		Well what I am thinking of doing is to try and create what I believe is called a hinge pocket, I am not much of a builder and struggle with some of the terms, I am however willing to learn :-)    The rudder on the P-39 sits in a bit of a pocket like the one below the ESM fuse is square at the back, should I try and extend the fuse back on the sides and round out the leading edge of the rudder?    This is new territory for me and I am looking for some ideas or pointers to any how to's that are out there and have been alluding me.   I included a picture of the P-39 as a comparason.   



Any assistance appreciated.

Cheers


quote:

ORIGINAL: wallace.tharp


quote:

ORIGINAL: AZThud

I took some advice from Carosel and decided to install my elevator and rudder servo in the rear of the fuselage.     As mine is going to have a couple of big batteries in the nose it seems like a good idea.    I started by cutting our the rear access panel with my razor saw, came out OK and with some trim and filler should look fine.   When I was doing this I thought, just in case, I need more weight back here I could hinge the door and install the reciever or sound system battery, or both back here.   That made me raise the servo's as high as I could, this has me using the top of the elevator control arm and running the rod over the top of the tube for the horizontal stab.   The entire servo assembly is one piece and held in place with 2 screws and a bit of a hook arrangement that allows the servo's to rest on a bar and be trapped at the top, the screws don't carry the load and are there to hold things in place.  

Wallace I have some fiberglass shaped, that with some cutting could be used for nose gear doors, send me a PM and we can figure out how to get it to you.

Still working on the cockpit should have some pictures soon

I am also looking for some advice, I would like to close the gap between the rudder and the fuselage,  if there is someone with some idea's on how to accomplish this I would be most appreciative.

Cheers

Thanks, Thud, I am interested on what you find out on a trial balance/cg with the big batteries up front. I will be doing same with 2ea Turnigy Nano Tec 5s, 5000mah batteries. I still plan to do the stock control horn inthe tail el and al hook ups. You might change my mind. Good on the gear doors, We could meet at AARCS on a Sat, or Aux 6 on a Sun if that's good for you. Are you friends with Chad? wallace.tharp








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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/31/2012 10:48 AM   
Carosel43


 

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Status: online 		ok i see what you are getting at.

With the rudder the shape it currently is the hinge line is right at the leading edge. to do what you want to do (and make it more scale) you need to move the hinge line inside the rudder. The best way would be with robart hinges. put the kit hinges in the spares box, i think they will be too short for it to work using them.

what i would suggest is strip off the covering from the rudder and reshape the front so its round not pointy. and even better bet would be to build a new rudder, it will only take about half an hour and should end up lighter and more scale.

when you have your rudder ready drill the hole for the hinge stem (not the actual pivot point!) and make it quite deep you can then open up the hole in 1/8'' steps to allow the hinge deeper until you find the right location. you will have to then cut clearances to allow the rudder to move. i would also suggest you make a support for the hinge on the aircraft side as it will only have about 1/4'' glued into the plane if you dont and it may flex and fall off.

As for the shrouds, some 3/32x1/4 sheet glued carefully to the fin, glassed and sanded should do the trick.

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RE: P-39 by ESM - 12/31/2012 11:05 AM   
Carosel43


 

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Status: online 		Ok, sorry about the crapness of my drawing but its better than nothing! anyway this shows the rudder when viewed from below, the red dot is the hinge line (approx) and the 3/32x1/4 shrouds can also be seen to blend the rudder in slightly. this is a common way to hinge something so there are doutless better drawings and explanations available online but i hope this gives you the idea

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