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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 12:06 AM   
chaserogesr14


 

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narrowing any truck will make it more responsive, but im guessing its not only for handling but also strength a longer arm will create more stress and less support shorter arms offer more support.
look at a buggy for example the arms last longer because there is so much less stress put on them compared to a truggy


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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 10:20 AM   
lazyboy12300


 

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The narrower arms are made of a different material that stops them breaking as much. There were reports of the original arms being brittle and snapping around the hingepin. I only broke one, but after one full year of running the newer ones, I have never broken one. Even hitting a wooden stake as full speed only elongated the hole meaning I could still go on to finish the race. It does improve steering with little change to stability. I have gone even narrower by putting on the 801X hexes (removing the extenders) and it simply turns inside anything now!

I love this truck, it is just amazing

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 3:45 PM   
pianori


 

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Interesting. You mentioned you put the 801X arms and shafts into your 801Xt? Just in the front I assume? Does that make it look funny? How much shorter is it? Do you have a picture of your truck I would like to see it if you can.
Thanks


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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 4:00 PM   
Eman77



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I think he just put in 801x hexes, along with the 5mm shorter 801xt arms.

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 5:07 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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Yes it was just the 801X hexes, with the new 801XT (1013/1014 combo i think) arms.

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 6:24 PM   
pianori


 

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Are the 801X hexes shorter than the 801Xt? If so then how much?

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 6:58 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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The 801XT hexes have extenders which are 4mm per side. By replacing them with 801X hexes you therefore reduce the overall width by 8mm. This means that the hex pin is held inside the wheel so there are no problems with the grub screw coming loose and loosing a wheel. However, you do need to do a slight bit of dremelling of the arm to get clearance with the wheel. Also some wheels need some of the webbing removed for this (AKA's).

I have also changed to the buggy C hubs and steering knuckles which greatly improved steering also - plus they look awesome in blue!!

Hope this helps
Scott

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/26/2011 7:32 PM   
pianori


 

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Sounds great. Do you have a picture of this setup?

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 3:31 AM   
pianori


 

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I finally got a chance to take it to the track. I enjoyed it, but still learning how to drive it. I think I want to go with 7 or 5K in the back. It is a little too squirrelly for me ( not 100% sure yet).
Here is a Youtube video of it at the track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHg_K2jmES8

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 3:47 AM   
chaserogesr14


 

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looks good but the .28 is just too much lol


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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 10:20 AM   
lazyboy12300


 

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Video looks good dude, liking that track. I have settled on 10-10-3 in my diffs and it is perfect everywhere for me. Enough steering and not too loose.

Pictures of narrow hexes:

You just need to take a little bit of material off the rear of the arm to allow clearance for the wheel. This does not get rid of any strength (I am yet to break one in a year)


Then for AKA wheels we needed to reduce the amount of plastic rubbing, so removed the webbing around the hex.

If you take your time and simply put the wheel on everytime to remove a bit of material you will get an idea of what you need to remove. Without taking any off you can feel it being notchy when rotating the wheel at full lock as the arm drops in between the webbing. So take your time, and you will soon be able to do it quickly. We have now got to the point where we can dremel the wheels in 5minutes (we had to rush to buy a new set and then dremel before a final).

Hope this helps, any more questions just ask

Scott

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 2:42 PM   
pianori


 

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Thanks Scott! That helps. On my RC8B I have 10-10-3 on the diffs and I like it. I will probably try the same thing with this truggy as well, especially after hearing that it works well with yours.

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 4:18 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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I have been running this truggy for nearly 2 years now; so thought I would share some things that I have found help make this a much better truck. Feel free to ask for more information if you are interested.


Replacing the 25x3.5mm bulkhead screws with M4 cap headed screws. Need to drill 4mm clearance holes, but I have not stripped one since.

I kept snapping the cast diff rings. To stop this, jam an M4 nut in between the diff ring and the rear bulkhead. I have now changed to the new CNC diff ring, but after I did this mod I did not break another cast diff ring.

Use an M4x12 screw on the motor mount plate and secure with an M4 nut. Makes it tricky to remove the engine quickly, but stops the screws backing out and the engine moving.

Add an extra brace to the wing mount. Use an extra cross brace halfway down the wing mount. I used another one of the blue bits used to join the wing mounts at the top and drilled holes. This stops the wing mount bending and stretching.

Use the Kyosho 50T lightweight spur gear as the Tamiya lightweight has been reported to be a little weak.

Use Losi 15mm shock bladders as the Tamiya ones are slightly too small.

Use kyosho STRR front body mount to fit a bulldog/punisher to fit. As the stock ones snap easily when fully extended.

Use the 801X brake pads as the XT ones are a lot weaker and fade faster.

The shock caps elongate really fast, so to prolong the live replace the plastic bushing with fuel tube. I have found this to be very successful in my buggy.

Use 801X hubs and caster blocks to get more steering

Use 801X hexes to narrow the truck (as above)

If there is too much bottom end then I found going up to a 14T CB helped massively. Easier to drive, better fuel economy without loosing much bottom end.

If your truck doesn't come with the narrower arms/driveshafts and HD upper shock mounts, then these should be your first purchase.

I also added the tilted engine as it looks awesome :P

On a bumpy track I found that putting the 801X rear shock tower on the front of the truggy with the longer rear shocks helped in the rough sections.


There are probably more, but these are the things that I can think of off the top of my head.

Hope this is useful,
Scott

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 5:34 PM   
pianori


 

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This is awesome. Some things I kind of figured out as well like the fuel tubing on the shock caps. I replaced the wing with an associated one. Yah the brakes do not inspire confidence, the same for the spur gear. I extended the engine mount rails for the engine so i installed a 16T CB on it. It came with a 15T and it was popping wheelies with the .28 engine I cannot imagine going lower to a 13T CB.

Tilted the engine? Really? I thought the 801X looked cool! Interesting. Post a picture of your setup I want to see the tilted motor it sounds cool.

I agree I will have to narrow the width at some point.

I should be receiving an Argus A52 .21 moded engine from RBmods today which I will install in the truggy. I am hoping to get smother and a more linear performance with longer fuel time. This .28 is jumpy and it only gives me 6~7 min per tank (that is annoying).


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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 5:51 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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Stock CB is 13T on the 801XT, so 16T seems a bit strange to me!

I will post pictures of the tilted engine setup tomorrow as off out tonight. All you need is the buggy engine mounts, and the tilted centre diff mount (which includes the servo mounts to tilt the throttle servo).

I run an Argus in mine (non modded) and it is plenty fast enough! I can easily get 10minutes on a tank at any track with it. It really depends on the pipe. Are you running the lightweight drivetrain?

Scott

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 6:12 PM   
Eman77



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"The shock caps elongate really fast, so to prolong the live replace the plastic bushing with fuel tube. I have found this to be very successful in my buggy. "


Can you elaborate on this? I have no idea what it means (the problem), nor the solution really (i.e., put fuel tube where, exactly).

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 6:24 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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I have taken some quick photos for you. It didn't have an engine in so I just placed one in so you could see the tilt better.



All you need is:
801X S Parts - TAM9114064
801X Motor mount - TAM9400958

Then you must bend the throttle linkage so it can connect to the carb. Or you could buy the 801X one, but I found bending the truggy one to work well.

Sorry the car is dirty :P

@Eman I will just go take photos of this to explain for you

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 6:41 PM   
lazyboy12300


 

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Right, so basically you are going to replace parts X4 with fuel tubing. After a bit of use the shock cap elongates which allows the arm to move up and down without any shock feedback (more vibrations etc). If left unaltered it could lead to the shock popping off:


So all you need to do is to replace this part with a similar length of fuel tubing:

I but a washer one either side of the fuel tubing and do up the nut tight so the fuel tubing is squashed, and so far it has not worn the shock caps anywhere near as much.

Hope this explains it
Scott

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 6:43 PM   
Eman77



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Yep, that explains it perfectly. Thanks!

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/27/2011 10:10 PM   
pianori


 

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Not sure why, mine came with a 15T CB. I know the manual lists a 13t CB. I do not know what to tell you. I just received the Argus engine. It looks good. I'm planing of taking it appart to see what was done to it.

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 7/30/2011 8:28 AM   
ZenMoto


 

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Bought one of Tamiya's "Scratch & Dent" TRF801xt kits, which arrived a week or so ago. Since then, I've been making sure I had all the right bits and piecing it together. Just about the only performance hop-up I didn't get was the lightened chassis ...which I probably will at some point. For now, I'm more concerned with reliability and durability!

Anyway, I wanted to stick with my paint scheme, but couldn't find any more of Tamiya's bright green, so used what was left as a light coat, backed with forest green; I think it turned out pretty nice for masking tape and a rattle can.

Here's some pics:






And one with my SC10 4x4 in the background.



And a peek under the hood...



Really liking the RC Product Designs conversion kit; everything went together perfectly!

I also can't say enough about the 801xt kit. ...if you grew up with Tamiya, like I did, it's exactly what you would expect. Everything is flawless as far as fit & finish, as well as the instructions. ...nobody makes a kit like Tamiya!

Today I took it out to the local track and all I can say is WOW! This thing is a beast. Really well balanced, easy to drift in the loose stuff, and just easy to drive fast!!!

...too much fun!!!

There are more pics online at: my SmugMug account

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 8/3/2011 3:00 PM   
Eman77



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Excellent! Love the paint job. I'm impressed with the straight lines too, great masking job. What tires are you running with?

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 8/3/2011 7:04 PM   
ZenMoto


 

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Thanks Eman, I thought about trying fast-mask, but decided to stick with what I know; masking tape!

The tires are AKA I-Beams and work really well on our local track (when it's damp). ...I haven't found any tires that work well on it when it's dry! lol

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 8/4/2011 3:42 AM   
secretsg



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quote:

ORIGINAL: ZenMoto

Bought one of Tamiya's ''Scratch & Dent'' TRF801xt kits, which arrived a week or so ago. Since then, I've been making sure I had all the right bits and piecing it together. Just about the only performance hop-up I didn't get was the lightened chassis ...which I probably will at some point. For now, I'm more concerned with reliability and durability!

Anyway, I wanted to stick with my paint scheme, but couldn't find any more of Tamiya's bright green, so used what was left as a light coat, backed with forest green; I think it turned out pretty nice for masking tape and a rattle can.

Here's some pics:






And one with my SC10 4x4 in the background.



And a peek under the hood...



Really liking the RC Product Designs conversion kit; everything went together perfectly!

I also can't say enough about the 801xt kit. ...if you grew up with Tamiya, like I did, it's exactly what you would expect. Everything is flawless as far as fit & finish, as well as the instructions. ...nobody makes a kit like Tamiya!

Today I took it out to the local track and all I can say is WOW! This thing is a beast. Really well balanced, easy to drift in the loose stuff, and just easy to drive fast!!!

...too much fun!!!

There are more pics online at: my SmugMug account


Nice setup. I'm waiting on the pinions to finish my e-setup. Which KV did you decide on with the motor?

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RE: Tamiya TRF 801XT Build Thread - 8/4/2011 7:05 AM   
ZenMoto


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: secretsg

Nice setup. I'm waiting on the pinions to finish my e-setup. Which KV did you decide on with the motor?


Thanks. I'm running the 2000kv truggy motor with a 15t pinion right now. ...it's way too much for my local track (both punch and top end) and I only ever see about 135 degrees on the motor, even in 90+ ambient temps, so I'm not pushing the thing at all.

...but here's a little vid of my local track (and me sliding all over the place, and generally driving like crapola). lol

TRF801XT on Vimeo

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