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Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 11:02 AM   
Krayg123


 

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I have a flux 2350 which unfortunately has a problem, and I assume that it is due to the esc. The esc led goes through the normal init and then the led goes orange. The car can move slowly for about 5 secs and then it stops and the esc led turns red.

Since it is the flux 2350, the esc is the hpi q-base 104924. Does anyone have any details of what the red led means - I assume it means that it is fried... I have gone through some water unintentionally and this is what has probably done it, but it does still move the car, even though quite slowly for a limited time. It will then go in small bursts.

Can anyone confirm that this esc is fried, or if not, what i can do to reset it, or get it going again?

Thanks!

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 8:00 PM   
rclugnut10



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can you test it with a different radio and are you sure there isn't a loose wire somewhere, thats where i would first check, castle built escs ( yes the q base is a rebagged MMP) are pretty water resistant...

the lug

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 8:48 PM   
t9dragon



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Here are some things that could be wrong:

Batteries
Exposed/damaged antenna wire
Crystal is damaged

What batteries are you using?

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 9:15 PM   
Brainanator



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First thing I always try is re-calibrating the radio. Check your manual if you're not how to do this.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 9:45 PM   
Sherv


 

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I had this problem.
Do you use an after market Rx/Tx?
Do you have it set to digital servo mode?
If so then you fried the servo and thats why it is failing. Set your radio right and use a spare servo in your garage (dont install it just plug it into the ESC) and see if it acts funny still.

I found that the ruined servo did the same thing to my other ESCs in my collection.it's very odd.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 11:50 PM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rclugnut10

can you test it with a different radio and are you sure there isn't a loose wire somewhere, thats where i would first check, castle built escs ( yes the q base is a rebagged MMP) are pretty water resistant...


thanks for your reply. I'll try a different radio and see what happens, and will get back to you.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 11:53 PM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: t9dragon

Here are some things that could be wrong:

Batteries
Exposed/damaged antenna wire
Crystal is damaged

What batteries are you using?


I'm using enrichpower 2s 35c 5200's, so that are standard ones for the 2350, and as far as I know I'm not doing anything stupid. The batteries seem to be fully charged, as when i go to recharge them they only take a few minutes.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/7/2010 11:55 PM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Brainanator

First thing I always try is re-calibrating the radio. Check your manual if you're not how to do this.


Thanks for all the good suggestions! I'll give this a go when i get home from work to night.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 12:03 AM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Sherv

I had this problem.
Do you use an after market Rx/Tx?
Do you have it set to digital servo mode?
If so then you fried the servo and thats why it is failing. Set your radio right and use a spare servo in your garage (dont install it just plug it into the ESC) and see if it acts funny still.

I found that the ruined servo did the same thing to my other ESCs in my collection.it's very odd.


No, rx/tx is totally standard and not after market. I guess a servo may be playing up though - I'll take a listen when it fails to move to see if I can hear the servo. I would expect they're all ok though or else it would never move or turn in the first place?

Funny thing is that each day i would be able to get the flux moving for 4-5 secs (perhaps 20m/60feet) and then it's only in small bursts, like the battery cutoff is in play due to low voltage. Then wait, try again the next day, with the same results.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 11:41 AM   
Krayg123


 

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I think I might have figured it out, but please let me know if you think I'm on the wrong track.

I reset the esc and it seemed to at least get the truck keeping some movement and not cutting out immediately all the time... However, when I took the batteries out, one was cold and the other a bit warm. When I went to charge the batteries, the cold one was fine and took some time to charge, but the one that was originally warm would not charge as it was "full".

I assume from this that the "warm" battery has had it, and the esc was cutting out because it detected a low voltage as it was only drawing current from one battery, ie, about 3.6v, not 7.2v. Perhaps the resetting of the esc has disabled the automatic cut out so it was moving slowly as the voltage was low (I'll enable it again).

Is this a fair enough assumption? Any advise would be appreciated.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 12:13 PM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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KrayG, can you check the individual cells' voltage on the "hot" pack?

(from one of Castle's tech support guys)
quote:


Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read


Have you adjusted the trims and then reset the speed control? Are you using a parallel or series adaptor or are you using the Flux's stock equipment?

The one battery being hot may lead us to a bad cell...email ThunderPower, but if you can it'd be far better to call them.

< Message edited by ThunderbirdJunkie -- 11/8/2010 12:43 PM >


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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 1:51 PM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie

KrayG, can you check the individual cells' voltage on the ''hot'' pack?

(from one of Castle's tech support guys)
quote:


Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read


Have you adjusted the trims and then reset the speed control? Are you using a parallel or series adaptor or are you using the Flux's stock equipment?

The one battery being hot may lead us to a bad cell...email ThunderPower, but if you can it'd be far better to call them.


The thing is quite temperamental as now it cuts out again... But the LEDs are green forward and red reverse when on full throttle, but doesn't stay long, and cuts out. Even when going, it is very slow compared to what it used to go.

This time when I hook up the batteries the "good" one is balanced, but when i hook up the "hot" battery, it now tells me that it is "low voltage" which the manual of the charger tells me that I have the cell count wrong. It is set on 2s and can't go less, so i can't see the voltage off each cell unfortunately, and I can't seem to be able to charge it either.

Also, all of my setup is stock standard at this stage, as it's still only about 10 charges new


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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 2:01 PM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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What's your low voltage set for? Is it set up for auto-detect or is it set for 14.x volts?

You may have a bum cell, leading the voltage cutoff to cut out under load.

Have you checked the voltage of the cells in the "bad" battery with a multimeter?

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 2:55 PM   
Krayg123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie

What's your low voltage set for? Is it set up for auto-detect or is it set for 14.x volts?

You may have a bum cell, leading the voltage cutoff to cut out under load.

Have you checked the voltage of the cells in the ''bad'' battery with a multimeter?


It's set for a 2s 14.8v by default, but does auto detect and get confirmation of the cell count. I've actually just noticed that it is starting to puff so I am not planning on using it again, and will buy a new one.

I haven't actually checked the voltage with a multimeter as yet, but that's only going to get the sum of the two cells isn't it? I guess it would still tell me if it was lower than the 6v cutoff though... (2x 3.0v). Good idea.

Thanks heaps for your advice.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 7:27 PM   
rclugnut10



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if you touch it to the contacts on the balance port the black one is ground leave your neg on that and touch it to the other two contacts and that should give you a reading off of each cell...

the lug

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/8/2010 7:35 PM   
t9dragon



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The best LVC to set it at would be Auto-Lipo cutoff.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 11/9/2010 12:52 AM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Krayg123


quote:

ORIGINAL: ThunderbirdJunkie

What's your low voltage set for? Is it set up for auto-detect or is it set for 14.x volts?

You may have a bum cell, leading the voltage cutoff to cut out under load.

Have you checked the voltage of the cells in the ''bad'' battery with a multimeter?


It's set for a 2s 14.8v by default, but does auto detect and get confirmation of the cell count. I've actually just noticed that it is starting to puff so I am not planning on using it again, and will buy a new one.

I haven't actually checked the voltage with a multimeter as yet, but that's only going to get the sum of the two cells isn't it? I guess it would still tell me if it was lower than the 6v cutoff though... (2x 3.0v). Good idea.

Thanks heaps for your advice.


The root problem is that speed controls are not plugged into the balance port on the battery, so they can't detect individual cell voltage, and in the Flux's case, it can't detect if only one battery goes down to 6v. If your LVC is set to 3v/cell the only thing that has to be satisfied to set off the LVC is 12v, so you're not far from that at all under a load if one battery is at 6v and the other is at 7.8v. With voltage drop, you could only be a stab of the throttle away, which is probably what's causing your issues.

A good charger that shows individual cell voltage and/or a multimeter to check individual cell voltages at the balance port is almost a necessity when playing with electric stuff.

Have you contacted Thunder Power yet?

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 6/18/2011 2:11 PM   
stampedevxlowner


 

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My issue I'm having with the esc on the 2350. Is esc the turns off by itself,so I can't manually turn off the lipo setting or progrem the esc altogether,the esc makes it's initial audible tones the turns off. I intend on using 6 cell nimh battery packs. My thanks in advance for any help offered. Oh and I can't even see where leds are located on the Qbase esc.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 6/18/2011 3:03 PM   
hindupimp2384



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Okey i had a savage flex too but sold it to my buddy, when i had it i had the same problem....
1.  Your battery is bad
2. make sure the Discharrge rate, mAh and cell number are the same for both battery
3. If all above is good, then reprogram your esc to factory default, download the lastest firmware, and make sure your lipo cutoff is on AUTO.

Well mine i had to reprogram it and it worked.  if not maybe the below info will help you.


What do the flashing LEDs mean?

The LEDs can have different meanings depending on what you are doing.

If you are not calibrating and have no throttle input:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = Speed control has not been calibrated and is not armed; or throttle sub-trim is not at 0.
Solid Green OR Red = should not happen when at neutral, indicates full throttle/reverse
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with controller
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral and armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse when NOT calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = over temp
Flashing Green and Yellow = low voltage cut-off(battery)
Flashing Green OR Red = indicates partial throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red)
Flashing Yellow = possible problem with control
Solid Yellow = should never happen
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver, usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; possible problem with controller or with throttle channel on receiver.

If you are applying throttle or reverse WHEN calibrating:
Flashing Red and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green and Yellow = should not happen when calibrating
Flashing Green OR Red while beeping = indicates speed control is looking for full throttle (green) or full throttle (red). If it continues for more than ~ 8 seconds, indicates speed control is seeing partial throttle (green) or reverse (red), increase endpoints on transmitter so speed control sees full throttle/reverse.
Solid Green OR Red = indicates full throttle (green) or reverse (red) has been read
Flashing Yellow = speed control is not seeing a valid neutral signal, check your transmitters throttle sub-trim is at zero, exponential is set to 0 or linear, and mixing is disabled.
Solid Yellow = indicates neutral has calibrated and is armed
Flashing all colors = speed control is not receiving a valid signal from the receiver. Usually indicates the receiver wire is plugged in backwards into the receiver; also happens when speed control has accepted a calibration setting (throttle, reverse or neutral) and flashes/chimes 4 times before moving to next calibration point; or problem with throttle channel on receiver.




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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 6/18/2011 9:45 PM   
stampedevxlowner


 

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That's just it,my esc turns itself off before I can do anything. It makes it initial audible tone,then it just turns off.

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RE: Savage flux 2350 esc issues - 6/18/2011 9:46 PM   
stampedevxlowner


 

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Oh and I can't even locate where the leds are located,to see which one is lit up.

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