Shaun Evans

Hi,

Gonna start this thread soon. This build is for a customer who is currently serving overseas. He has asked me to build this for GDF, but I'm trying to convince him that he'd be much happier with a small turbine-powered model. Maybe you guys could help me with that?

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

be even happier EDF

Shaun Evans

Perhaps....

I'm not a big EDF guy, so I'm probably not going to talk him into that. Gonna get started on this soon. I'm looking around the shop and can't seem to find my tubes of glue?? Who's got the best prices on Hysol these days?

ron Sweeney

I hope it is the later epoxy glass moulding. I have a turbine version (Wren 44) which is polyester YUCK YUCK YUCK. I have never been able to find any adhesive that will bond properly with it and yes I have tried everything including Stablit express and yes everything was properly prepped. However its a cute little model and I look forward to the build and I am an ic d/f fan. It will do me good to see where I went wrong!! Ron.
As an aside I was with scott in MA when the original plug was delivered to the wharehouse you used to have up there. I was on holiday and went flying with Jacks brother over in Orange airport. Happy Days.

The maiden flight of my model is on youtube under the 'mainjet 42' list as 'maiden flight of yellow ya f18 single wren 44' as you can see I don't know how to post properly.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

I'm sorry to hear about that. To be honest, I never really had any problems getting even some epoxies to stick to the green glass. I did a lot of scuffing and cleaning, but it worked OK. I normally used polyester resin which, of course, worked superbly. This one is the newer glass (as you can see in the photo), so I'll use hysol.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

I get my Hysol from McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr part number 6430A33 for the 50ml cartridges at $12.16 each, plus shipping.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6430a33/=9reiu4

Would love to find it less expensive, if anyone has another source...

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Thanks. Any idea what the 'scientific' name for V-Poxy is? I really liked that stuff...

ron Sweeney

Not wishing to be a party pooper, I was trained to believe that the only test to prove an adhesive is a destruction test. This is what I performed with all the trial bonds I tested. (not recommended). I genuinley don't wish to spoil this potentialy very interesting thread, and since you have established that your model uses an epoxy fuselage, I am enthused by the forthcoming build. Ignore all my ''polyester' comments unless some cyber chemists 'know better' and concentrate on the build. I assume you will be using an OS 91 / Dynamax, a great combo, and to all those earlier experimenters who may be interested, the best power system ever. Let us all know how you approach the fan mounting and exhaust system installation. These are areas of deveopment that were never fully developed when the decline of icdf took place.
Will you be flight tesing the model prior to delivery? Best wishes for the build, Ron.

gunradd

My Feedback: (9)

Here is a guys maiden on his YA F18. Turbine would be sweet but hard to find places to fly them. This guy used the dynamax electric conversion from XPS. Sounds a ton better then glow and no fuel mess or dead sticks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_V8Y...layer_embedded

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Well, yeah, that one sounds just like a jet! The customer will see this when he checks out this thread. Maybe he'll go for the EDF. Do you know what mods, if any, that gentleman made?

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Built the bearing boxes today. Simple enough. Glued the bearings into the pre-cut holes and used the titanium shafts to line up the bearings while I glued the side walls to the plywood box floor. You use a 1/4" brass tube to align the boxes inside the fuse when you glue them to the formers.

Shaun Evans

Glued the bearing boxes to the two rear-most formers that sandwich the boxes. The brass tube holds their positions in the fuse interior while the epoxy sets. Later, I'll tack this this set in place then hysol the whole thing in.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

This brings back memories! This was my first jet back in 1996!

FRANCISCO RUBIO

My Feedback: (9)

This is my hornet arf f18 Yellow Aircraft, originally was a ducted fan, is nearly ready with a jet central super bee turbine , could you recommend the televator, aileron and flaps set up.

Pepperpete

Can you tell us if Yellow sells an ARF version of this aircraft painted? I've always wanted one but the amount of work needed to get it flying has put me off. Also would a Rabbit turbine be enough for this bird?

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Pete, I do know YA offered "arf's" in the past, but not sure about now.

Honestly the work involved isn't all that much for this model. you could have one ready to fly in about 2 or 3 weeks (not including any paint except primer) by working on it a few hours each night and more on the weekends.

Shaun Evans

Francisco,

The Super Bee is a very good engine for this bird. May I ask, why did you opt to do your rudders that way instead of an internal linkage? Also, why do you have your pipe sticking out the tail cones like that? Do you have some internal heat insulation back there?

To answer the question about ARF's, no, Yellow isn't currently offering this bird as an ARF.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Got some more work done this morning. I installed the removable wing spar receivers onto the main formers. These are installed with two machined bolts, but are also epoxied in place, too. After that, the wood spars are cut off prior to the installation of the bulkheads into the fuse.

The inlet is a single-piece inlet that is taped in place, then epoxy is poured around it to hold it in place. Once the epoxy/filler is cured, the inlet can be sanded/shaped to the intake.

FRANCISCO RUBIO

My Feedback: (9)

Yellow aircraf

Idid opt for external ruder rods because the plane was a df and the previus owner cut the internal linkage , to avoid cutting the hinges I did opt for external rudders control rods . The pipe sticking out the tail cones because the pipe is screwed to the fuselage former and the pipe result longer, need I to relocate with additional support for that has not protrude from the cones?. Inside the fuselaje in the pipe area I covered with aluminum foil and BVm ceramic coating.

Greetings

Francisco

Shaun Evans

Hi,

I see what you're talking about. Yes, I'd move that pipe forward until you get it at least 3/8" inside of the tailcones. That will cut down on the heat buildup back there. The foil is a great idea, though. When will you fly it?

Shaun Evans

Build Update:

Got all of the formers installed now. After shooting the hysol into the corners around all of the wood-to-glass junctions, I used a gloved finger to neatly sqeeze/fillet the glue. Unfortunately, my wife annouced dinner halfway through, and I thought I'd remember to finish after I ate. Instead, I came back this morning to find that some of the glue beads on the underside are ugly [&o]

Today, I'll glass the inside of the inlet to the fuse sides, then remove the tape and round/shape the inlet with sandpaper.

FRANCISCO RUBIO

My Feedback: (9)

Hi,

thanks for your advice I'll move the pipe forward to place it within the cones. I plan to fly in 2 weeks, hope all goes well and make a video of the first flight

Shaun Evans

Francisco,

Good luck with the flight!

I got the inside of the inlet/fuse joint glassed and it's hard as rock there now. I also installed the gear and struts to see how she looked standing up. The fan mounts also serve to hold the fuel tanks in place. Those are in there, too... Ah, the memories....

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Worked on the stabs a little today. The stab itself is balsa-sheeted foam, with a layer of carbon cloth sandwiched in between. The slot for the balsa filler block is pre-cut, but you have to carve the filler block to shape. The pre-drilled [for the titanium pivot shaft] block has a slot cut for the anti-rotation cross-pin in the shaft. After you glue the shaft into the balsa block, you glue the block into the stab root once you align it with the fuse. I glued the fiberglass stab tip to the stab and planed them smooth.

Shaun Evans

Hi,

It's been a minute since I've worked on this bird because wings were late (out of stock for a couple of months). I tried to buy some off RCU, but nobody wanted to sell. They just came in, so I've gotten back to work on this. My customer has been very patient, so I'm doubling up on the hours dedicated to building in a day since I'm currently working on two projects.

The wings are sheeted foam, with carbon cloth sandwiched in between. They're VERY stiff that way. I'm installing the plug-in wings, so I had to grind down the aluminum spars to fit inside the slots. You have to move (enlarge) the slot in the wing for the spar because it sits on the outsides of the two main bulkheads. I used a super-sharp Cutco knife to carve out the foam. It came out nicely, and tomorrow, I'm going to fill the stock slot with a balsa block.

The wings have a slot for the ailerons precut, since flaps are optional. I'm going to finish this line out and add the flaps. The servos for the flaps will go into the root of the wing and be totally invisible (save for the slot for the servo arm).