Sterling Citabria

Sterling Citabria
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Sterling Citabria - 1/29/2004 4:35:12 PM

geo8498

Posts: 283
Joined: 9/15/2003
From: pittsburgh, PA, USA
Status: offline

I'm not sure if it's worth the time to invest into rebuilding this Citabria that I picked up for $35. I started to strip it down and thought I'd put my .40 engine in it when done. But now I'm not sure if it's really a worthwhile project, from some input I'v been getting on the plane. I'm pretty sure that the K&B 40 I have would be too big, so I'd have to get a smaller engine for it. So, again, I'm thinking of just sticking the plane in the rafters and getting a new kit to work on as a winter project. Anyone have any thoughts?

There's a link to my thread with a picture of the plane.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Sterling_Citabria/m_1426442/tm.htm

(in reply to km6tj)

Post #: 76

RE: RE: <span class= - 1/31/2004 3:31:09 AM

Falcon Jet

Posts: 348
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline

I've got a Sterling Fokker DVII that I got at an estate sell a few years ago "new in the box" if you will. Started on it a year ago but discovered that the ply was so old that it was delaminating, and the plastic parts are very brittle. Have no idea how old this kit is, but judging from the picture on the box that it has to be from the 60's or earlier. Taking my time with this one.

CoosBayLumber, huh? Got to be from Coos Bay, Oregon! Used to live there above Coos Bay Chapel from 1994 to 1998. Have family members that live there also! I'm in the Coast Guard, now stationed in Corpus
Christi, Texas! My home state is Oregon obviously.

Chris.

(in reply to geo8498)

Post #: 77

RE: Sterling Models - 1/31/2004 3:31:38 PM

georgemu

Posts: 1
Joined: 1/31/2004
From: Crestwood, KY, USA
Status: offline

Just found this forum. I have a Sterling P51 R/C kit on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3172574883&category=2563&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSE%3AIT&rd=1

P51 Mustang R/C balsa kit. 66" wingspan, for .35-.60 glow engine.

(in reply to CoosBayLumber)

Post #: 78

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/1/2004 12:32:29 PM

Mike Denest

Posts: 725
Joined: 5/21/2002
From: Newark, DE, USA
Status: offline

The Sterling Fokker is a good flyer as long as serious weight control is practiced. You might want to replace the parts with lighter density wood, especially around the tail. I have one built around 1970 or so. The nose was extended one inch to help with the balance. Even then there's a large lump of lead buried in the chin under the engine. It originally had an OS .80 but if I decide to fly it again, I'll install my OS 1.20 four stroke. The landing gear is springy, so no matter how hard you try not to, it will flip over on the nose. You can cure this by installing a gear block in the lower wing to made it rigid.

_____________________________

Mike Denest
R/C as it used to be: http://www.vintagercsociety.org

(in reply to Falcon Jet)

Post #: 79

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/1/2004 2:08:43 PM

Falcon Jet

Posts: 348
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline

Appreciate your tips Mike.

I already have the frame work for the fuse, wings and tail feathers pretty much completed. Started to get burned out on it a year or so ago so I shelved it for now. Working on a Ziroli P-38 project now (see warbirds and warplanes, Ziroli P-38 construction). You know how it goes, you have 2-3 projects going at the same time.

There is one thing I'm having a problem with though. If you remember, the nose cowling is made out of steel with an opening in the front for a wire screen. I can't for the life of me figure out how to install the screen without warping the cowling, tried soldering it, but can't get it hot enough for the solder to stick and I damn sure don't want to use a propane torch, epoxy won't work either cause it won't last long. Do you remember how you installed it? Any tips are much appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris.

(in reply to Mike Denest)

Post #: 80

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/1/2004 4:51:12 PM

jimdgregg

Posts: 4
Joined: 11/18/2003
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Status: offline

Hello,
I'm a real novice at this, are you wanting to contact me about the Fledging FS-29 Kit?
Jim

(in reply to Falcon Jet)

Post #: 81

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/1/2004 6:11:21 PM

Falcon Jet

Posts: 348
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline

Jim,

If your asking me, no I wasn't.

Thanks anyway,
Chris.

(in reply to jimdgregg)

Post #: 82

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/2/2004 10:29:10 PM

Mike Denest

Posts: 725
Joined: 5/21/2002
From: Newark, DE, USA
Status: offline

Mine is soldered in but I'm sure JB Weld would work also.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Falcon Jet

Appreciate your tips Mike.

I already have the frame work for the fuse, wings and tail feathers pretty much completed. Started to get burned out on it a year or so ago so I shelved it for now. Working on a Ziroli P-38 project now (see warbirds and warplanes, Ziroli P-38 construction). You know how it goes, you have 2-3 projects going at the same time. There is one thing I'm having a problem with though. If you remember, the nose cowling is made out of steel with an opening in the front for a wire screen. I can't for the life of me figure out how to install the screen without warping the cowling, tried soldering it, but can't get it hot enough for the solder to stick and I damn sure don't want to use a propane torch, epoxy won't work either cause it won't last long. Do you remember how you installed it? Any tips are much appreciated!

Thanks,
Chris.

_____________________________

Mike Denest
R/C as it used to be: http://www.vintagercsociety.org

(in reply to Falcon Jet)

Post #: 83

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/3/2004 12:10:15 AM

Falcon Jet

Posts: 348
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline

Thanks Mike,

Guess I need a hotter soldering gun with more power!

Will try it again!

Chris.

(in reply to Mike Denest)

Post #: 84

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/4/2004 1:45:21 AM

CoosBayLumber

Posts: 2999
Joined: 1/20/2002
From: San Bernardino Calif
Status: offline

I use some of the Shiney-Brite liquid soldering flux on steels. Shine the steel surface with either sandpaper or steel wool. Then warm it up some with soldering iron, drip on some Shiney-Brite and when it turns brown, then you touch in some high tin solder. You can move the tip, the flux around and tin the whole area. Then join on the mesh with another touch of solder. Overall operation should not take more than five minutes.

You can get the Shiney-Brite flux at welding shops. Comes in a white plastic pint bottle. Works with most solders, and do not have to use their's.

Wm.

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www.mybloo.com/coosbay/laser/laser.html
Thousands of Laser Cut parts, thousands

(in reply to Falcon Jet)

Post #: 85

RE: <span class= - 2/5/2004 12:23:57 AM

Muffinman

Posts: 124
Joined: 4/1/2002
From: Brookville, IN, USA
Status: offline

Hi FlyingTexan, I just ran into the post today. I started building Sterling kits in 1960, the Flying Fool was thefirst model I built while I was in Okinawa. Many years later, when I became interested in building models again, I bought a couple of these kits to build when I got around to them, as I had so much of a good time with the first one. I still have both. One I started to cut one out, but I never began building it. So I'm sure they are somewhere in my stash of to be built kits. If you are still interested in a copy of the plans, I can get a copy made for you. I may have a still in the box kit, if you are interested in one of these also. Just send me a PM.

Bill Connally

_____________________________

If it flies, it can't be bad!

(in reply to Mike Denest)

Post #: 86

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/5/2004 12:56:44 AM

Falcon Jet

Posts: 348
Joined: 8/20/2002
From: Corpus Christi, TX, USA
Status: offline

Thanks for the tip Coos Bay, will give it a shot!

Chris.

(in reply to CoosBayLumber)

Post #: 87

RE: RE: <span class= - 2/13/2004 2:00:32 AM

Twanger

Posts: 44
Joined: 8/20/2003
From: Sevierville, TN, USA
Status: offline

Anyone know of where I can get a nose bowl, either plastic or metal for the FS-1 Sterling Tri Pacer? Thanks

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(in reply to Falcon Jet)

Post #: 88

RE: Sterling Models - 2/18/2004 2:45:49 AM

mmartin55

Posts: 163
Joined: 2/17/2004
From: Belton, MO, USA
Status: offline

I don't know about crappy kits. I would think Sterling Kits like any need a little carressing to make fly just the way you like, and to look just the way they picture or better on the box front. I built my first sailplane model from scratch at age 11. It was a 20 inch span Schweizer-like stand off scale low wing motor glider type (without motor) in red and white finish on tissue covered stick frame. It never flew quite right but it was fun to build. Not quite the X-15 that my father was working on at the time for NASA which flew at Mach 6 into space and back and logged 199 successful test flights out of 200 scheduled with only one loss of life and one loss of airframe that I can remember.

I just listed for sale in the classified section of this web site duplicate plans from the Sterling Models 70 inch wingspan 1-26 scale model now discontinued. I have them listed at a nominal fee to offset the cost of photo duplicating two sheets of approx 24x36 inch (one sheet two sided) plans plus the time to hand trace and inventory all parts required to build the kit and make a list of materials to purchase to complete the project.

It's a beautiful aircraft. If you need it, I can scale any plans, drawings or die cut off cut sheets saved and sent me to any size you need. Email me with your requirements and I will provide a quote based on the camera work and duplication to the new scale.

Tom Martin

(in reply to CoosBayLumber)