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Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 1:38 AM   
invertmast


 

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I know most of us REALLY hate when we get to the fiber-glassing part of building our models. Its time consuming, dust, itchy (if not wearing long sleeved clothing) and down right a pain in the butt! Through the years i've tried everything from sanding sealer and water base polyurethane, oil-base polyurethane, Z-poxy, etc and all have their pro's and con's.

In this thread, Its my intentions to show how I go about fiber-glassing my models. I have eliminated a vast majority of the sanding, and your typical 1/5th scale model can be ready to paint in 1 to 3 days once you get use to the technique. So, lets get to work.

First thing up is the materials you will need.

1. A quality epoxy laminate resin system. This can be west systems, Pacer's Finishing resin, whatever you prefer. I typically use Pacers finishing resin, or here more recently US Composites 635 THIN epoxy system w/ the 3:1 medium hardener.
2. Some plastic disposable cups.
3. Mixing Stick
3. Fiber-glass cloth (the weight depends on what you are doing).
5. A soft bristle brush. I'm using 1" Chip brush's from Harbor freight
6. 100% PURE Polyester cloth. it doesn't matter the color, but it MUST MUST MUST be 100% PURE polyester cloth. If it is not, it will not come off the part. You will need just as much Poly cloth as Fiberglass, I suggest getting more poly cloth than you think you will need.
7. A part ready for fiber-glassing. I am using a flap, but this method can be used for just about anything needing fiberglassing.
8. A plastic "spreader" I use a tuper-ware bowl cut to shape and the edges smoothed.

The process (If a step does not dictate a large or small part, that step is for all size parts):

1. using your part as a template, cut the fiberglass cloth to size leaving about 2" of overhang on all the edges.
2. Repeat the process for the 100% Polyester Cloth.
3. Set your fiberglass and Poly cloth "pieces" to the side.
4. Mix up your resin according to the directions.
5. Brush a coat of resin on the side of your part you are planning to fiberglass. If you have a Large part (like the bottom of the wing) Brush a long "+" shaped resin trail w/ the "+" at the center of the wing.
6. Lay your fiberglass cloth over the part.
7a. For smaller parts: Using your spreader, smooth any wrinkles or bubbles out of the fiberglass cloth, place to the side for the cloth to soak up the resin
7b. For Larger parts: Pour a small puddle of resin onto the glass cloth and use your spreader to spread the resin around on the cloth. you should not see any puddles of resin sitting anywhere on the cloth and the weave of the cloth should still be slightly visible.
8a. For smaller parts: repeat the process for the other part if applicable
8b. For Larger Parts: Continue along the part until all of the fiber-glass cloth is covered
9a. For smaller parts: Using your brush, dab some resin onto the part, then use your spreader to spread that resin around on the part to fully saturate the cltoh. Remove any Large buildups of excess resin.
9b. For Larger Parts: Continue to step 10.
10. Take your 100% polyester cloth and drape it over the part. Use your spreader to remove any bubbles,wrinkles,etc so the cloth lays down completely flat. If your resin ratio was correct, the poly cloth should soak up the excess resin, but still maintain a slightly "cloudy" look. If the poly cloth does not soak up any resin in a particular area, you need more resin in that area. If the cloth is completely saturated and appears nearly clear, you have to much resin, so take another piece of polyester cloth and lay it over the areas with to much resin.
11. Look around the edges of the part, if you notice any excess "blobs" of resin, take a balled up paper-towel and "blotch" the excess resin away.
12. Put the part aside and allow to cure.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=330Zh7vUc6k


Over-all, it took me about 20 minutes to fiberglass a pair of flaps that are 3" in chord and 19" long and that includes taking photo's and making the video. So if you remove the time to prep for the video and make it, I could of had those 2 flaps done in 10 minutes including cutting the cloth to size.

I will continue this tutorial in the 2nd post in this thread. I also will post up the link to the you-tube video of this part of the tutorial when it completes its upload. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.


Photos:
The Flaps, 3/4oz fiberglass flap cloth, and the 100% polyester peel-ply


The Flaps fiber-glassed and covered with the 100% polyester peel-ply


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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 1:40 AM   
invertmast


 

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Part 2.1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8EmFzOCB-E

Part 2.2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvU4sHm46iM

Part 3:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyZTio2NP9Q

< Message edited by invertmast -- 12/31/2010 8:42 PM >


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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 3:13 AM   
Experten109/40



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awesome write-up Sir  and that video tutorial was the icing on the cake. looking foward to part 2.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 12:18 PM   
yard-dart



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There's nothing like having a video tutorial. Good job. Looking forward to the next segment.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 12:50 PM   
Avaiojet


 

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GREAT THREAD!!

Long overdue.

Kudos!

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 1:07 PM   
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well done.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 2:50 PM   
YZ


 

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That was great, excellent job.  I must have missed it, but what is the purpose of the polyester cloth? 

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 3:20 PM   
yard-dart



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The cloth is applied over the glass cloth, which has a slightly wet surface. That little bit of wet is soaked up by the polyester. Once it's cured, the cloth is pulled off leaving a fine texture to the cured resin. The cloth actually helped fill in the weave of the glass, therefore preventing having to put a second filler coat of resin. Once the cloth is removed, sand until smooth, and it's ready to primer.

I'm glad I found out about this method. It's definately a time saver.


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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 4:32 PM   
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This was very informative because I have never glassed a plane before but I have always wanted try it out. I see how the fiberglass goes on solid surfaces but how are you going to cover the reverse side of the flap that has the open rib structure? Will you just use an iron on paintable type fabric or do you fiberglass it as well?

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 5:03 PM   
invertmast


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: davidgeorge212

This was very informative because I have never glassed a plane before but I have always wanted try it out. I see how the fiberglass goes on solid surfaces but how are you going to cover the reverse side of the flap that has the open rib structure? Will you just use an iron on paintable type fabric or do you fiberglass it as well?


The structure on the fullscale was left open for weight savings purposes. I will glass that area in the second video as well.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 5:57 PM   
invertmast


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: YZ

That was great, excellent job.  I must have missed it, but what is the purpose of the polyester cloth? 


That will be shown in the second video.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 8:19 PM   
jlovitt


 

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Great info and video. Is this method, is the polyester cloth serving as "peel-ply" that I have heard of in other locations before?

Thanks for posting your method.

Jeff Lovitt

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 9:35 PM   
invertmast


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: jlovitt

Great info and video. Is this method, is the polyester cloth serving as ''peel-ply'' that I have heard of in other locations before?

Thanks for posting your method.

Jeff Lovitt



yes

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/29/2010 11:35 PM   
YZ


 

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Thanks.  For some reason I thought it was staying with the airplane.  Yes I can see this will give a great finish without a second coat of resin saving time and weight.  

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/30/2010 3:23 AM   
invertmast


 

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well, part 2 will be postponed till tomorrow. the heater cut off in the shop last night, so the resin wasn't fully cured.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/30/2010 12:28 PM   
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Very interesting and well presented. Looking forward to the next installment!


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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/30/2010 6:05 PM   
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GREAT Tutorial thus far. I can't wait for the second installment. Having never been through this process, I was wondering about the under-side as well, and even more about the edges. I would have figured you would start on the underside, or in this case the "inside" of the flaps, then apply the fiberglass to the outside and "wrap" it around to the already-glassed underside (or in this case - the inside of the flap).

I think it goes with out saying that a lot of us really appreciate you taking the time to show us how to go about doing this. Most of the people in my club now show up at the field with ARFs or planes they picked up at swap meets. The art and "skills of building" seem to be getting lost in the hobby. Again - thanks for taking the time to show us newbies how to do this!!!

Loren

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/31/2010 4:17 AM   
invertmast


 

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Part 2 has now been added to the 2nd post in this thread.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/31/2010 3:57 PM   
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I noticed in Part 2 of your video that you are using Denatured Alcohol as your thinner. I"ve been doing that for years and IMHO it's the best reducer for alcohol.  One thing I have also been doing for years is to save my empty larger Epoxy bottles. I use several reducers for various applications.  Alcohol, lacquer thinner, and of course Acetone. I clean the residual epoxy from the bottles with the alcohol and then use them for my thinners. A small funnel makes filling them easy and reduces spillage. I don't even cap the bottles as the hole is so small evaporation is not a problem.  I use masking tape around the bottles to mark the contents.

Dash

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/31/2010 4:05 PM   
invertmast


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

I noticed in Part 2 of your video that you are using Denatured Alcohol as your thinner. I''ve been doing that for years and IMHO it's the best reducer for alcohol.  One thing I have also been doing for years is to save my empty larger Epoxy bottles. I use several reducers for various applications.  Alcohol, lacquer thinner, and of course Acetone. I clean the residual epoxy from the bottles with the alcohol and then use them for my thinners. A small funnel makes filling them easy and reduces spillage. I don't even cap the bottles as the hole is so small evaporation is not a problem.  I use masking tape around the bottles to mark the contents.

Dash


I have never thought of that, but that is a Great tip! I use alot of denatured alcohol and acetone (for cleaning contact adhesive off of lithoplate). We learn something new every-day!

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 12/31/2010 8:42 PM   
invertmast


 

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Part 3 has been added to the 2nd post..

and here is the link to the youtube video as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyZTio2NP9Q

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 1/1/2011 12:02 AM   
Dash7ATP



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Thomas,

I noticed you are using what appears to be a polyester filler over your epoxy covered wing. I'm talking about the blue mixture you said sands so well.  I have always heard Epoxy over poly works well, but poly over Epoxy doesn't xure properly, if at all. Comments regarding that?

Grottoes, huh? I used to live in Weyers Cave between '80 and '82.  I flew a Beech 99 out of the airport.

Dash

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 1/1/2011 1:04 AM   
invertmast


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Dash7ATP

Thomas,

I noticed you are using what appears to be a polyester filler over your epoxy covered wing. I'm talking about the blue mixture you said sands so well.  I have always heard Epoxy over poly works well, but poly over Epoxy doesn't xure properly, if at all. Comments regarding that?

Grottoes, huh? I used to live in Weyers Cave between '80 and '82.  I flew a Beech 99 out of the airport.

Dash



I haven't experienced any compatibility issues with the two and i have been using some sort of automotive body filler over epoxy/fiberglass surfaces for a few years. I ought to update my location, im actually in shenandoah now, but fly Kingair 90's out of Bridgewater airport.

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 1/1/2011 1:18 AM   
IFLYRC-RCU


 

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Happy New Year !

Question: Maybe I am slow here, but what is the true advantage of the cloth? Is it to get the surface virtually free of excess expoy ?

Is the intention to virtually eliminate the sanding stage ?

Thanks in advance . . .

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RE: Invert's Fiberglassing Technique 101 - 1/1/2011 1:18 AM   
NCIS


 

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Nice thread. I have been working with glass for 40 years and still can always learn. Liked the video and am waiting for the next segment. Here is a cowl I repaired for a fellow modeler that 1/3 of it was missing. Unlike others I can't wait to get to the finish work and glassing is my favorite part. I always wear surgical gloves though to keep from getting any on myself. I hate the feeling of it on my hands.

Barry

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