RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying  
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    • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
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    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 5:08:52 AM   
    Maudib



    Posts: 5833
    Joined: 7/16/2002
    From: Ashland, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		I used th 1/8" all the way around... the gaps were fairly tight. (I've never had much problem getting the gaps tight with them.

    I just snug the hinge in so that it "mushes" a little pocket on both halves. (That's in the softer balsa like the Patty seems to have) On the harder balsa I l use a razor knife to cut a little square notch around the drilled hole... this lets the hinge set in flush and not cause a gap.


    I still sill seal the hinge gaps with Monokote tho... It makes quite the difference in performace of the surfaces regradless of how tight the hinge line is.



    [QUOTE]Originally posted by BasinBum
    What size Robart's did you use and how tight is the hinge gap when you got done? Also are you sealing the control surface gaps? [/QUOTE]

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 76

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 5:19:42 AM   
    ChixwithTrix



    Posts: 393
    Joined: 4/10/2002
    From: Spring, TX, USA
    Status: offline     		My Patty-
    -Saito 300TL
    -Zinger 20x8 prop
    -Polished Tru Turn spinner
    -JR 8411 on each elevator half
    -2 8411s on the rudder, push pull system
    -1 8411 on each aileron
    -A standard JR for throttle
    -7 Channel FM reciever
    -GP Charge Swiches
    -Dual 1400MAh NiCd batteries for the reciever
    -Dubro Heavy Duty servo arms
    -Stock hardware
    Will have-
    -Cline regulator for engine
    -CH ignition for Saito
    -Don't know which battery yet for ignition
    -Mejzlick 20x8 Prop
    -New JR 7 channel PCM reviever

    I still need to seal the hinges...as soon as I get the other things she'll be ready to fly!
    I don't have a scale so I don't know how much she weighs
    I am considering putting a small camera into the plane and take aerial video or installing a smoke pump. But before I do any of that I am going to fly it and see how she flys.
    Total the plane will have about $2750 give or take into it!

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    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 77

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 5:27:10 AM   
    ChixwithTrix



    Posts: 393
    Joined: 4/10/2002
    From: Spring, TX, USA
    Status: offline     		Here is the electronics setup at the moment.
    I need to get the new reciever and tidy up those wires.
    The reciever is in the middle of the two batteries. Everything is wrapped in foam rubber and masking tape.

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    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 78

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 5:28:05 AM   
    Barry-RCU



    Posts: 170
    Joined: 2/4/2002
    From: Central, NJ, USA
    Status: offline     		The control horns that come with Patty have what appears to be a mounting plate for the opposite side of the control surface to receive the screws. The instructions have you drill 1/16" holes and than use #4 wood screws, no backplate, don't go all the way through. What did everyone else who used the stock horns do?

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 79

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 5:57:22 AM   
    DENNIS C



    Posts: 2965
    Joined: 7/8/2002
    From: frisco, TX, USA
    Status: offline     		[QUOTE]Originally posted by Barry
    The control horns that come with Patty have what appears to be a mounting plate for the opposite side of the control surface to receive the screws. The instructions have you drill 1/16" holes and than use #4 wood screws, no backplate, don't go all the way through. What did everyone else who used the stock horns do? [/QUOTE]

    barry i drilled all the way thur and installed 4-40 bolts and nylocs and used the backplates

    i dont trust wood screws into lets say "BALSA"

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    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 80

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 6:04:47 AM   
    Maudib



    Posts: 5833
    Joined: 7/16/2002
    From: Ashland, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		There is a plywood plate in there followed with solid balsa...

    I did as they recommended... just make sure you harden the holes with CA and let it CURE before proceding.

    The screws are pretty long and because there are 4 of them in each horn, I feel comfortable with them.

    AND you don't have those block of black on the top of the surfaces...

    It's personal preference tho...

    [QUOTE]Originally posted by Barry
    The control horns that come with Patty have what appears to be a mounting plate for the opposite side of the control surface to receive the screws. The instructions have you drill 1/16" holes and than use #4 wood screws, no backplate, don't go all the way through. What did everyone else who used the stock horns do? [/QUOTE]

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 81

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 8:05:15 AM   
    Geistware



    Posts: 12946
    Joined: 4/9/2002
    From: Locust Grove, GA, USA
    Status: offline     		I will try to post some pictures of my setup later. I have the cowl off because I am blocking off the original openings to increase the airflow around my engine.

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    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 82

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 8:09:45 AM   
    ram3500-RCU



    Posts: 1822
    Joined: 8/17/2002
    From: n. canton, OH, USA
    Status: offline     		I used the wood screws into the plywood plates for mounting the control horns. I mounted them and then removed them and CA'd the holes, good practice, as instructed in the booklet. Been using this method for years with no failures. A lot cleaner install too.

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 83

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 11:26:06 AM  1 votes
    BasinBum



    Posts: 5717
    Joined: 7/24/2002
    From: Hawthorne, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Of the six or so I've seen at our field everyone used the wood screws without the backing plates and none have failed, even in a crash they have held. Just make sure to place the side with the ply reinforcement down.

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 84

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 4:08:54 PM   
    Mr_Scale



    Posts: 372
    Joined: 6/1/2002
    From: Seymour, IN, USA
    Status: offline     		Barry, mine is per the instructions. The mounting points all have a plywood plate to carry the control horns. I did CA the holes. It looks good and has worked fine.

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 85

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 6:40:37 PM   
    Barry-RCU



    Posts: 170
    Joined: 2/4/2002
    From: Central, NJ, USA
    Status: offline     		I bought the PW Extra to replace my H9 Edge. The first thought was to move the servos from that plane to the Extra.
    AL= HS545 x 2
    El= HS605 x 2
    R= HS615mg x1
    4.8 volts
    (just a sport flier but I do want to do the 3-D thing).

    The only one that I am now questioning is the rudder servo, I can't decide between the HS-945mg, HS-645mg, or the 5625mg.
    What do you guys think?

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 86

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 6:48:05 PM   
    Maudib



    Posts: 5833
    Joined: 7/16/2002
    From: Ashland, KY, USA
    Status: offline     		Barry,

    If you intend on staying at 4.8 volts, then consider the 945mg...

    Even with the 945, I'd strongly recommend you go to a 6 volt pack... You'll increase the speed and torque of all your servos.... always a good thing in 3D...

    (in reply to Maudib)
           Post #: 87

    RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying - 8/8/2003 6:48:28 PM   
    Mr_Scale