RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - Pics - Videos - L@@K  
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    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/11/2008 3:06:42 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hey Jim, the project is moving along now. Got the tail wheel mounted, the rudder mounted and the rudder servo installed. Put the rudder servo way up front just forward of the lower fuse landing gear wire mounting block. Next come the elevator servoe mounts. Looks like it will take less time to finish the balance of the plane than I spent on the landing gear and flying wires.

    Any changes on your thoughts on flying the GB? Have you solved the climbing/diving in tight turns issue? I recall that Jimmy Doolittle decided that tight high speed turns in the R1 were not a good idea. He spanked everyone in the '32 Thompson race using wider turns. I think that was his last flight in the R1 too. DWR.


    (in reply to dirtydingus)
           Post #: 176

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/11/2008 3:31:27 AM   
    RichardGee



    Posts: 101
    Joined: 10/10/2002
    From: Dixon, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Hey guys!

    Still making progress and getting excited about FLYING this awesome bird!

    I have included some pictures of the stab fairings, installed. Take your time and cut these out carefully. They fit well and add a great scale touch to the Gee Bee.

    I have painted the continuation of the red onto the rudder bottom and added the black striping tape before FINAL installation of rudder. Hinge pin will be secured with clear tape.

    Just a suggestion: Make a cradle out of a foam ice chest. This is very handy in holding Gee Bee in place when landing gear is removed (for painting touch-ups, etc).


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    _____________________________

    RC Modeling is for truly talented individuals... for everyone else, there's video games.

    (in reply to dirtydingus)
           Post #: 177

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/14/2008 12:11:33 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		This @#%$%^&*!!! thing! I would be ashamed to admit to selling such a poor quality product. It is as if they decided to hell with it let the customer figure out all the problems, we don't care.
    I think the only thing that has saved this CA product is its reputation for good flying once it is fixed. I can see why a lot of these GB's get sold off before they are finished.

    I couldn't believe how flimsey the glass was in the area where the elevator servoes mount. So of course I fixed that too by laying up more glass.

    I checked the strenght of the lower rudder hinge point on the fuse with a little tug and the cake frosting glue popped loose and I had the thing in my hand ! I don't think this plane could survive if that had let go in flight. Of course I fixed that too. Be sure to check this on your plane.

    The upper rudder hinge point was in crooked due to the fact that the whole upper former was cockeyed. Another fix required.

    %#&^*!@#$!!! Grrrrrrrrr.

    (in reply to RichardGee)
           Post #: 178

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/14/2008 12:26:29 AM   
    RichardGee



    Posts: 101
    Joined: 10/10/2002
    From: Dixon, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		DWR,

    Have a drink and chill.... mine was the same (lower rudder hinge point installed crooked).

    Without even testing, I opted to fiberglass both hinge points to rudder post. Before I could even do that, I had broken out the lower hinge point and epoxied it back in before fiberglassing.

    In elevator servo mounting area it was obvious that screws of any kind would pull right through the thin glass. I added plywood doublers epoxied to fuselage sides (insides) with blind nuts that allow me to remove servo trays, as servo mounting and arm screws are mostly inaccessible, being located under stab.

    I also plan (as suggested) to fiberglass/reinforce the flying wire wing mounting plates and glue in brass inserts where flying wire bolts pass through.

    Indeed, to classify this as an "ARF" is a stretch, when compared to a modern ARF design.

    This CompARF (former FiberClassic) was designed long before our expectations were so HIGH!

    btw: Even before the old Byron Gee Bee kit was available, I completely scratch built (including FG cowl) a quarter scale R2. ANYTHING makes that feel like a cake walk!

    Keep on pluggin' away! It's gonna be worth it!

    _____________________________

    RC Modeling is for truly talented individuals... for everyone else, there's video games.

    (in reply to dwr)
           Post #: 179

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/14/2008 1:31:59 AM   
    dirtydingus


     

    Posts: 66
    Joined: 8/8/2007
    From: west palm beach, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hey DWR,
    Hold in there, it will all be worth it. My hinge points pretty much fell off. Over all the plane is holding up well.

    (in reply to dwr)
           Post #: 180

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/18/2008 4:29:55 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		I know-just focus on the flying and keep pluggin away. Sooner or later it will get done. Flipping through Delmar's book helps too. Installed two power switches and a kill switch today, also in the nose. rigged the pull/pull cables for the rudder and rear wheel. Next is the canopy and the side door then I can start with the business end of the beast. Flew the Bleriot today, tomorrow I'm gonna go kill some more bugs with the P47. DWR.

    (in reply to dirtydingus)
           Post #: 181

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/22/2008 2:11:48 AM   
    RichardGee



    Posts: 101
    Joined: 10/10/2002
    From: Dixon, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		Does anyone have the same concern as I do about the 'flex' of the motor dome??

    I installed the dome, engine, cowl, prop, and am somewhat alarmed at how much I can move the prop hub around/flex the dome.

    In some ways, it almost seems as if the dome might function as a vibration isolation mount, what with all the flex, but it also seems a bit un-nerving that this 16 HP engine, spinning a 30" prop, is supposed to be perched out on this rather flexible mount...

    Any comments??

    _____________________________

    RC Modeling is for truly talented individuals... for everyone else, there's video games.

    (in reply to dirtydingus)
           Post #: 182

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/22/2008 5:20:52 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Yes Richard, I am in the middle of the engine mounting job and find myself worrying about the thin edge of the dome that is doing all the work. I will at minimum use washers as large as possible on thos six fasteners and put hard nylon washers under the steel washers to keep from cutting into that glass. I also epoxied a 1/4" birch ply 7" disk on the backside of the mounting area. This did
    stiffen things up a bit. But I have yet to get to the point where I can try to flex the the whole assembly. If at that point it seems too weak I may put a layer of six oz. glass on the back of the dome.

    I recall earlier in this thread someone saying that they had a good deal of flex with one of the big gas radials. I can understand that because those engines are high in torque. Wonder if Jim can see
    any flex in his 150 when he ground tests to full throttle? Seems like it would be possible to see the flex by watching the prop tips.

    The GB dome has nothing near the strength of the dome on the CA 2.6 meter Extra I had. I will certainly be keeping an eye on the dome mounting points as I start getting some flights on it.

    Jim, hows the dome on your veteran flyer lookin?

    (in reply to RichardGee)
           Post #: 183

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/22/2008 4:36:37 PM   
    dirtydingus


     

    Posts: 66
    Joined: 8/8/2007
    From: west palm beach, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hey Guys,
    Yes there is a bit of flexing going on. The wood disc works very well but I think it might be a good Idea to put a couple layers of heavy glass on the inside over the entire dome, wood and all. My motor is at DA for some work and I think I will glass mine while it is off. Hey GWR your plane can definitely use the weight up front so now would be a good time. I cannot see any flex during run up but I also put an additional 6 screws in the dome between the existing 6. With the original screws in, I could see the dome separate from the fuse in the area between screws during full throttle run up. Jim

    (in reply to dwr)
           Post #: 184

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/22/2008 5:02:23 PM   
    RichardGee



    Posts: 101
    Joined: 10/10/2002
    From: Dixon, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		I already built-up the engine mounting area with ply on front and back, but this is not really where the flex is occuring. It seems to be more related to the large diameter of the dome and the span from the dome/cowl mounting screws to the engine.

    I too believe additional beefing up may be in order - thinking of some longitudinal cross-bracing behind the motor dome as I think additional glass would just flex along with what is already there.

    ANOTHER engine-related question::: What about baffles to direct incoming air over engine? Is this necessary?

    _____________________________

    RC Modeling is for truly talented individuals... for everyone else, there's video games.

    (in reply to dirtydingus)
           Post #: 185

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/23/2008 4:39:28 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Hi guys, sounds like reinforcing the dome is a good idea. And I can use the weight. May try to glass in some stiffeners too. the six extra screws sound like a good idea also.
    I will be putting in baffles. I think it always helps to make sure the inlet area is smaller than the outlet area. I have not run the numbers yet but I think some baffling will be needed. DWR

    (in reply to RichardGee)
           Post #: 186

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/26/2008 2:18:15 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Well I put a layer of 6 oz. glass cloth on and it really stiffened up the dome. Think I'll call it good for the 3W 100 I'm using. Not too far from being able to check out the weight and balancing. DWR.

    (in reply to dwr)
           Post #: 187

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/29/2008 4:22:07 AM   
    dwr


     

    Posts: 222
    Joined: 10/29/2004
    From: ft.myers, FL, USA
    Status: offline     		Well the weight came in at 31 lbs. less dummy radial. Took 1 1/2 lbs at the dummy location to balance at 75mm from leading edge. So will likely wind up at about 33lbs when done. Guess thats right in the ball park. The FTE dummy I have weighhs over 2 lbs so will lighten that up. DWR.

    (in reply to dwr)
           Post #: 188

    RE: Composite-Arf 33% Gee Bee R2 - First Flight - ... - 6/29/2008 5:11:30 PM   
    RichardGee



    Posts: 101
    Joined: 10/10/2002
    From: Dixon, CA, USA
    Status: offline     		I have built engine baffling in cowl - all 1/16" ply and glassed. Also going to add engine braces on back of engine dome - probably 1/4" ply and glassed. Certainly more function than form, but should do the trick of adding needed nose weight and keeping engine cool.

    Will post pix when done.

    Just completed installing ONE wheelpant. Had to shorten pant mounting studs and alter axle set up as both were too wide to allow proper pant fit. Locating pant mounting screws was VERY tedious. Haven't even begun to l