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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 12:48 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is a n early test showing how the doors need to clear the fork, impossible with a 4" shock. You will see that on this model, I had not yet gotten the shock shortened, but simply used one of the correct length from the RC car industry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=Ve5HZH4lu60&NR=1

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 1:20 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is the video with the permanent doors installed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T91EzW6T6oo&feature=youtu.be

< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 9/26/2012 2:04 PM >

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 1:41 PM   
AngusMc


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Gary, link does not work, "video removed by user"

this is great, all this info really helps
Thanks again


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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 1:45 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AngusMc

Hi Gary, link does not work, ''video removed by user''

this is great, all this info really helps
Thanks again


Sorry guys. Working on it. I screwed something up. I'm downloading it again. Should be OK in a couple minutes. I'll edit the link when it is done.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 1:51 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is one that works, in the meantime.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2cD-BlZrSo

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 2:05 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		OK, I fixed the link in the previous post.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 6:00 PM   
MANFRED



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Status: offline 		Gary, would love to get that geometry on the door links you made.
Thanks

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 7:14 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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quote:

ORIGINAL: MANFRED

Gary, would love to get that geometry on the door links you made.
Thanks

Thought I put that in a post. I'll see if I can find it, and if not, make it available here. It really is nice to be able to eliminate those rear air cylinders.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 9:30 PM   
MRadu



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Status: offline 		Gary,

On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4" of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.

One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.

Thanks

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 10:01 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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ORIGINAL: MRadu

Gary,

On mine the shock was longer than the first release. So what I did was open up the spring shock in the tail wheel and then using a brass tube I cut a little more the 1/4'' of an inch and slipped it over the piston and then replace the spring and with thread lock (blue) I put the shock back together. Hope this helps.

One question: How can I get the control arm for the tail hook? As seen in your tail wheel video.

Thanks

Just as a note to those who may not be comfortable with doing the mod themselves, Darrel will 're-manufacture" the shock to the proper length, without any loss to load capacity (as in shortening the spring, or reducing travel), at no charge (he did a quick turn for me, around as well ). Keep it mind that that shock is the whole smash for holding the tail wheel in place. And, without the proper travel and load capacity, you WILL bend the upper pivot arm (the one the cylinder pushes on) when she bottoms out.

All the parts you see on the tail gear I hand made, except the hook itself. That is part of the Greame Mears upgrade kit. I don't know of any commercial source for them. If someone does, please let us know. Will save me some time on the next one.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/26/2012 10:18 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is a better view of the parts I made, and how they all work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkKSBCstNu0

Couple things I'd like to add. I originally used a screw in the hook, just screwed into the resin, as seen in the video. This screw eventually worked loose and the rear part of the boom with the hook slid off as we took off (looked pretty cool with the hook down until it did) . Fortunately, this happened right over the runway on take off, and another pilot found the hook and kindly returned it to us. I then through bolted it and added some CA, with no more issues.

Also, as you can see, I did not paint the servos and lead wires in the top of the gear bay. A scale judge downgraded us for that!!! This is one of the couple things that kept us out of 1st place, as we missed it by just 1 point. Easy fix.

Everything else on the tail worked perfectly and looked great.

Look closely and you can see the tail hook has come loose and is down as she rolls down the runway and lifts off (about 2 min into this video) on her 4th flight.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onOX3fJKZtw&feature=em-

< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 9/26/2012 10:49 PM >

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/27/2012 1:24 AM   
AngusMc


 

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Status: offline 		Another question, I have Robart 165 door cylinders, at the end of the stroke I have about 1/8-3/16 left to attach to the door hinge mount hole, typically I would just put a ball link on the end and be done but not enough room, it looks like I need a 2-56 theaded 90deg fitting of some sort, I have seach the web and cant seem to find anything any suggestions

Angus

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/27/2012 3:43 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AngusMc

Another question, I have Robart 165 door cylinders, at the end of the stroke I have about 1/8-3/16 left to attach to the door hinge mount hole, typically I would just put a ball link on the end and be done but not enough room, it looks like I need a 2-56 theaded 90deg fitting of some sort, I have seach the web and cant seem to find anything any suggestions

Angus

First, I would go with better air cylinders. We use Ultra Precision cylinders. They are what they say, and DON'T LEAK. Here is a link for them. With the stock air gear, you need ALL the pressure you can get to keep the gear locked.

http://www.globaljetclub.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=13_16&product_id=394

You can move the cylinder towards the center for more room if you need it.

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Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
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< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 9/27/2012 5:09 AM >

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/27/2012 3:46 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		You Corsair guys will love this. I took this at the Cleveland National Air Show this past Labor day.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 9/27/2012 6:16 AM   
saramos



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Status: offline 		Nice!


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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/2/2012 9:18 PM   
nauticom


 

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Status: offline 		Gary:

You stated in your post on page 40:

With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.

I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.

Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.

I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
bokee@consolidated.net



I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4" square


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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/2/2012 9:25 PM   
ram3500-RCU



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quote:

ORIGINAL: nauticom

Gary:

You stated in your post on page 40:

With my marks triple checked, I cut the homemade rails in. I then epoxied the rails in the slots. I am using a flat head machine bolt, with a jam nut tightening it to the canopy. Then a self-locking nut will be screwed onto the inside, which will run in the rail. This will give the scale look on the outside of the canopy. I'll drill a hole behind the rail so these can be inserted, then I'll screw a plate on to cover this. The full scale has this look.

I was going to use brass for the doubler on the inside of the canopy, but then thought of using some carbon fiber and found that the pieces that you cut the main gear doors are perfect for this. I cut this to shape and was able to drill and tap it with 2-56. Works great.

Gary,
My project is a Zeroli Corsair. I just got the L&D jackscrew and controller from Mitch and looks very good.

I am looking at the flat screw and locking nut you used for sliding in the sloted brass rails for the back of the canopy. My 2-56 locking nuts are to big for the 1/4 square brass rails I have from NCIS (R.I.P).
Also in a few posts latter you show going to a ball link with L shaped brass for mounting to the front of the canopy. how did you attach the push rod to the ball?
I have found at my LHS a ball and socket 4-40 size that, with some sanding I can get it to work. These are make by LOSI and are at Horizon. Looks like model car stuff.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Bob Masterson
bokee@consolidated.net



I have the NCIS supplied rails and ball links but cannot find a small enough nut to fit inside my rails. They are 1/4'' square

I just read through this nauticom. I don't have time right now, but I'll post here this evening with an explanation and more pictures that will make it easy for you.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/2/2012 9:42 PM   
nauticom


 

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Status: offline 		Gary: Thanks a bunch.
BobM


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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/4/2012 1:20 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here are some pictures to help with my canopy system for the Corsair. It will also work on other planes.

1. A ball link is used, and captured in a square stock sized to slide into the slotted larger canopy rail.

2. This "driver" is connected to a push rod epoxied into the square stock.

3.The front of the canopy is bolted to a bracket which in turn is fastened to the threaded end of the ball link.

4. The rear of the canopy is held by a bolt fastened to the canopy by a nut on the inside, with a self locking nut on the end. This nut is slide into the canopy rail.

Attachments
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Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/4/2012 4:05 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Some more pictures.

This is the inside view of the rail, and the 1" insert capturing the ball link.

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Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/4/2012 4:23 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is the whole drive system prototype.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/4/2012 4:31 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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Status: offline 		Here is the video I made based on this system.

The 3000rpm motor I spoke of in the video did not produce enough torque and we settled on a 1200 rpm from Down and Locked.

Although it is slower than we are used to seeing from the air driven systems, I thought the visual affect on the runway was very good. It worked at a speed that one could see it clearly moving.

Closing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfNt4N3kxfw&feature=relmfu

Opening http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo_6f9sS1ww

< Message edited by ram3500-RCU -- 10/4/2012 4:55 AM >

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/5/2012 2:01 AM   
nauticom


 

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Status: offline 		Gary:
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4" square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM


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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/5/2012 5:23 AM   
ram3500-RCU



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quote:

ORIGINAL: nauticom

Gary:
Thanks very much for the further insite to your canopy design.
I'm assuming your inside square tube is 1/4'' square riding inside a 5/16 square tube?
In any event I cannot find 5/16 square tube anywhere. Any suggestions?I really like the square brass carrier. I will go that route if I can find some of it.
Thanks,
BobM

Your welcome Bob.

The slotted outer sq. stock is 7/32 brass (K&S Engineering stock # 154) and the inner one is 3/16 (K&S # 153). Most hobby centers and craft stores carry these.

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RE: CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread - 10/6/2012 6:54 AM   
Chris Nicastro


 

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Status: offline 		Holly cow what a model! I just opened my kit today to inspect it and its pretty awesome. Im looking forward to the build and Ill be watching this thread for sure.

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