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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:27 PM   
rodneypierce


 

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Status: offline 		craig, pond looks nice!  I would have to get rid of that small island though!  But would sure be nice to have a pond at the house!!

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:34 PM   
racer504



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Status: offline 		Whoa, hold up there just a minute. I do not claim to be an expert on these or any other engine but what I do know is what I have tried and what has worked for me. I race my tunnels and I do not have unlimited funds to put in them. I am not easy on them and everything i tell you has come from personal experience. In 5 years of racing these I've broken just about everything you can break on one. I am not an engine modifier. I do some but only to the extent that it will not cause long term harm to the engine. As Rodney pointed out earlier you can win a ton of races without going 55 mph. My best tunnel is probably touching 50 on a good day with a mild headwind. That's not to say I wouldn't love to have a 55MPH tunnel because I would! I run 65% nitro in my engines and haven't broken anything since early last season (and that was just a flex shaft before I changed to brass liners). When I finish running I flush the motor with WD-40 and then put some Corrosion X in it. I would recommend you change the rod as soon as you can afford to. The XM rods do not have lube holes in the bottom and they will wear the crank pin out of round. The plugs you have are OK. I use O'Donnell blue plugs with the 65%. I also restrict the water to the head until when the engine comes in hot it's somewhere in the low 220's or almost too hot to touch. Running them colder just wears them out (IMO). When mine goes by, if you look close, you can see water just barely dribbling out.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:40 PM   
Blackout


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rodneypierce

craig, pond looks nice!  I would have to get rid of that small island though!  But would sure be nice to have a pond at the house!!


Thanks, I'm slowly getting rid of the island by digging out by hand. An excavator can't reach it. It looks worse now because the water level is so low from the summer drought. The 9.5 feet tall driver's stand makes driving around the island allot easier.



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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:42 PM   
kiteboarder



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the info guys...

So do you restrict the water flow the whole time, or just to warm it up then bring the boat in, remove the restriction and go back out?

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:44 PM   
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Status: offline 		oh man, that sucks!  They cant reach in there with a long arm eh?  Ha, digging out by hand must suck with an island that size.  I bet the tall drivers stand sure does help with that.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:45 PM   
Blackout


 

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ORIGINAL: kiteboarder

Thanks for the info guys...

So do you restrict the water flow the whole time, or just to warm it up then bring the boat in, remove the restriction and go back out?


Restrict all the time. The head needs to be hot to the touch, so that you can only leave your fingers on there for 2-3 seconds. It's a pain adjusting, but full water will over cool in most cases. I tie zipties on my water lines to restrict, but other have better ways.



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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 8:46 PM   
rodneypierce


 

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Status: offline 		Danny, restrict it the entire time.  I have to run custom turned jackets on my .21's, to get the volume of water very small in order to get heat in them.  My thunder tiger has the outlet hole soldered shut, with a .032 hole drilled in it.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 9:02 PM   
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Status: offline 		Cool guys... I'll probably get one of those infrared thermometers and tune the water flow to the temp readings. The water here only changes 10 degrees from winter to summer (58F to 68F) and usually stays right at 62F, so once I get a good setting it should be easy to stay within a safe range.

Back in Puerto Rico I was running in 80+ degree water. So over-cooling was not that big of a problem.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/2/2011 10:42 PM   
Slideblues


 

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Status: offline 		Racer 504, Welcome to tunnel talk.

Craig, Yea faster than the last vid I saw for sure!

Danny, I use WD-40 too.
Gene


Saved a pic from Mike Z,
OS Ver2, Liked the knife edge on tha rod and Mike said the pin boss on the piston looked beefer too,


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/3/2011 2:01 AM   
Slideblues


 

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Status: offline 		Also some picks of piped outboards I have saved:

Craig the CMB has the shaft oiler Roger was talking bout.
Gene

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/3/2011 3:57 AM   
racer504



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Status: offline 		Here is a picture of a VSpec Speed Rod. A car guy turned me on to theses a couple years ago. Looks similar to the one in the new air cooled engine. In real life they look like they are a machined piece while the V2 rod in the picture looks like it may be cast. But it's hard to tell from the pic.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/3/2011 9:32 PM   
Slideblues


 

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Status: offline 		Nice piece, Does look a bit like the V2 rod,
Thanks for the tip,
Gene

I believe our roving reporter Ron O. might have a report from Hobart when he checks in Friday Sept 9th,
Think JD will be there too......

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/5/2011 6:41 PM   
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Status: offline 		On the topic of XM rods and the fact that they do not have lube holes on the bottom end. I noticed that the XM crank pin does have an angled lube hole. But not sure if it works as well.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/5/2011 7:20 PM   
kiteboarder



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Status: offline 		Hey guys, slight change of topic but still on Tunnels. I know both Gene and Craig have VS1's. Did you guys blueprint them when building? I checked mine on a glass table and it's perfectly true from one side to the other. The only thing is the very last 1" of the sponsons goes up about 1/32" of an inch (when looking at the hull right side up on the table.

I was thinking of sanding it down a bit to make the last 1" perfectly straight with the the other 10" in front of that. The question is, should I? And... if you guys did do this, what did you use to seal the wood again?

Thanks, Danny

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/5/2011 7:53 PM   
Blackout


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: kiteboarder

Hey guys, slight change of topic but still on Tunnels. I know both Gene and Craig have VS1's. Did you guys blueprint them when building? I checked mine on a glass table and it's perfectly true from one side to the other. The only thing is the very last 1'' of the sponsons goes up about 1/32'' of an inch (when looking at the hull right side up on the table.

I was thinking of sanding it down a bit to make the last 1'' perfectly straight with the the other 10'' in front of that. The question is, should I? And... if you guys did do this, what did you use to seal the wood again?

Thanks, Danny


I don't have a VS1, but I have a friend that has one that I run with. Mine is a Vision Craft.

I would not touch the bottom, unless you notice a handling problem after running it for a while, but that's me. I would imagine the sponsons are designed that way for a purpose.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 1:54 AM   
racer504



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ORIGINAL: Blackout

On the topic of XM rods and the fact that they do not have lube holes on the bottom end. I noticed that the XM crank pin does have an angled lube hole. But not sure if it works as well.

Apparently, they don't work as well. The original Version 1 rods tend to wear the crank pins to a point that they are no longer round. We have seen them wear as much as 2 thou. in a season while the Speed rods will wear the pins down maybe 1/2 thou in a season. Also it looks like the Version 2 air cooled rods have an oil hole in the bottom end.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 2:24 AM   
racer504



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ORIGINAL: kiteboarder

Hey guys, slight change of topic but still on Tunnels. I know both Gene and Craig have VS1's. Did you guys blueprint them when building? I checked mine on a glass table and it's perfectly true from one side to the other. The only thing is the very last 1'' of the sponsons goes up about 1/32'' of an inch (when looking at the hull right side up on the table.

I was thinking of sanding it down a bit to make the last 1'' perfectly straight with the the other 10'' in front of that. The question is, should I? And... if you guys did do this, what did you use to seal the wood again?

Thanks, Danny

Unless the instructions with the boat tell you expressly not to touch the bottom I would consider blueprinting any tunnel. I've recently done my 2 Cobra's and a friends TS3 and they have all benefited both handling wise and speed wise. I'm almost positive that 1/32 rise at the back of your sponson should not be there. Instead of sanding the sponson down to it I would consider adding material to bring it up some. Look up Bernoulli's Principle and do some research on blueprinting. You might be surprised at the extent people are going to to get their sponsons absolutely flat.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 6:27 AM   
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Status: offline 		Read on IW that it has a purpose on the VS1's and all three of mine were made that way too. Supposed to help with offsetting torque is what OP said. Also on that boat make sure you check all the seams for good seals. In anything pre-fab, ish happens and you would much rather be safe than sorry.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 7:21 AM   
Slideblues


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Stu welcome,

Well this is interesting......
I just checked mine again and its flat as a pancake from the transom 10" forward.
Had mine for a while maybe a early'r build? Dunno...... Bout all I did was some lite sanding block action with 220 grit paper.
Followed by a red scotchbrite to a satin finish. Danny I say run it and if you feel it needs to be adjusted you can always change things later.

I use "cause I can pick pick it up local" SIG sanding sealer and SIG clear,
But again just my taste,
Gene

OH! and hey what Stu said, Check all the seams for voids,
Mine had some dry spots in the corners of the radio box barely held together.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 7:48 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi guys, thanks for all the replies and recommendations. I'm actually making lots of adjustments, including blue-printing (which I finished a few hours earlier). I'll get back later with more details. It's midnight and I gotta go to work tomorrow.


Thanks, Danny

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 1:35 PM   
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Status: offline 		Also if you are needing any setup info there are a ton of posts on here where Mike has posted his setup on here. What motor do you plan to run? I have one each, OS and then both KB's. All run great with Mike's setup and don't be afraid to add the weight. these boats are a little light being WOF.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 2:50 PM   
rodneypierce


 

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Status: offline 		Geno, that third picture up there of the piped outboard was my old TT done by JW.  That was on my HTB.


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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/6/2011 11:39 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hey Rodney,
Yea not many pics of piped TT's
Dats cool that JW worked on it,
Gene

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/7/2011 6:29 PM   
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Status: online 		Gene, another blast from the past. I ran into some old pix the other night while looking for something else so I thought that I'd scan some.
This was one that my wife wrecked at a race (it wasn't her fault and won't go into details) but repaired it and my son raced it. He trophied, a 3rd place finish against 12 others in his first ever race.

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RE: 21 Tunnel Talk - 9/7/2011 7:53 PM   
racer504



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Gene, another blast from the past. I ran into some old pix the other night while looking for something else so I thought that I'd scan some.
This was one that my wife wrecked at a race (it wasn't her fault and won't go into details) but repaired it and my son raced it. He trophied, a 3rd place finish against 12 others in his first ever race.


Hi Ron, Do you happen to know what hull that is in your picture? Just curious. Thanks


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