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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/20/2012 3:07 PM

redbiscuits

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What you want to do is take a sanding bar and bevel the ribs on the leading edge just a tad, so the leading edge has a good glue joint. After that, cut both pieces of leading edge according to the plans leaving a little overhang past S6. You are going to want to glue the leading edge to the ribs on the 1/2 inch side, so make sure to make your center bevel cut accordingly. Center the leading edge to the ribs so there is some overhang top and bottom (about a 1/16"). After you add the center sheeting the instructions will want you to trim and sand the LE even with the ribs contour as described in step 14.
Make sure that everything is pinned well in place and the jig tabs are contacting the table when you add the LE as you don't want to build a twisted stab. The sheeting will be glued to the top of the LE and TE. After that you will sand the LE to the shape indicated on the plans.

< Message edited by redbiscuits -- 4/20/2012 5:00 PM >

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/20/2012 3:38 PM

redbiscuits

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Here is a couple of pics of what it should look like. I like to use the white Titebond wood glue, not the yellow. It is for trim and molding. Use only this when gluing your sheeting together, as CA will be VERY difficult to sand. What will happen is you will sand the wood down around the the CA before the CA. Trust me on this!

I got the F16 up last night, it flew great..... very fast. I had a good time with it.

Also been working on the pinewood derby car this week. I will be doing a marathon on it today to have it ready for the race tomorrow. d-dog, if you aren't doing anything tomorrow, come by the Methodist Church in Cedar Creek. Race starts at 11.00 am.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/20/2012 8:51 PM

CapeEynon

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Zor

I cannot intrude with "red reply" but I suggest you have a look at the beginning of this thread. Many pictures about building this stabilizer.

Zor

Yeah, those questions aren't answered in the first part of the stabilizer build. I figured it out though. I also called TF and asked them. I'm almost done with the top skins and I'll be putting them on tonight...

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Post #: 228

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/20/2012 8:54 PM

CapeEynon

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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits

Here is a couple of pics of what it should look like. I like to use the white Titebond wood glue, not the yellow. It is for trim and molding. Use only this when gluing your sheeting together, as CA will be VERY difficult to sand. What will happen is you will sand the wood down around the the CA before the CA. Trust me on this!

Good call. I've seen that a little bit. What about Gorilla Wood glue? That's what the guy at TF said to use. Anyone had good/bad experience with this?

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Post #: 229

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/20/2012 10:36 PM

redbiscuits

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I don't have any experience with that. I read an article a couple years ago in Model Aviation, and the author recommended what I now use. Haven't ever tried anything else since.

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Post #: 230

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/21/2012 3:09 AM

Zor

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quote:

ORIGINAL: CapeEynon

quote:

ORIGINAL: Zor

I cannot intrude with "red reply" but I suggest you have a look at the beginning of this thread. Many pictures about building this stabilizer.

Zor

Yeah, those questions aren't answered in the first part of the stabilizer build. I figured it out though. I also called TF and asked them. I'm almost done with the top skins and I'll be putting them on tonight...

Too bad that the drawings are not showing a cross section of the stab / elev.
That would have made it clear.

Concerning gluing and sanding.
Just for your info, I have used Ambroid, Seg-Ment and now Titebond I I I

While sanding I do my motion along the length of the glued joint keeping the sanding bar parallel to the surface or tangent to a curved surface so that the wood is not sanded below the glued line.

The sandpaper or abrasive has to be on a solid backing and not over some felt or soft material.

Zor

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/24/2012 1:58 AM

redbiscuits

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Well,

Something just wasn't coming out right. The belly pan just didn't look right to me. Also when I mounted the wing, something moved and it was about 3/8 of an inch off. So instead of pushing forward and regretting it forever, I decided to go ahead and reset the wing and rebuild half the belly pan. I will feel better about it in the end and it's now or never.

I will stop by Home Depot tomorrow and see if they have some hard wood suitable for the new wing mount blocks.

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Post #: 232

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/26/2012 3:13 AM

EJWash1

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Sorry that you hit a snag, but I'm with you on taking care of it now. I like your approach.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/28/2012 5:37 PM

redbiscuits

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It was a small setback, but I have everything fixed up now. Just need to finish filling and sanding to a nice round shape. Pinholes and such will be left as is because I'm using 5oz cloth on the belly pan. Using the heavier cloth for protection in case of future gear up belly landings.
Glassing the fuse now. Just doing some final filling and prepping the surface.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/28/2012 6:41 PM

redbiscuits

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Isn't this a sweet sound? Moki 400.....

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/28/2012 6:59 PM

WacoNut

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I would love to have one of those engines. I am nervous enough flying my 1/3 Waco with a 3W 157 I can't imagine the pucker factor from putting that Moki in the air.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/28/2012 7:17 PM

Flyitorcrashtrying

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Wow!! That is an amazing airplane

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Post #: 237

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 1:19 AM

redbiscuits

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Yes, that is an amazing piece of craftsmanship. I wonder if it was built from Don Smith plans, that's the only 1/4 scale plans I know of. Maybe someday.....

Anyway, back to my puny little bird. I am ready to glass the rest of the fuse. I did the horizontal and vertical stabs today and finished up some minor filling here and there. I couldn't resist putting the wheels on while I was checking the wing to the stab alignment. Alignment looks pretty good to me.

I just about have an ARF

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Post #: 238

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 2:26 AM

EJWash1

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I went back to the pics of your ship in your driveway in post #150 and compared them to post #238. LOTS of progress!

That Moki-powered Jug is incredible! The sound raises goosebumps.

The belly-pan came out great. No more revisiting it now. Done-and-done. Not sure If I've read what you're going for as far as cockpit detail?

My Ziroli 92" short-kit arrived from Eureka Aircraft Company arrived on Friday! I like Eureka because Don (owner) is still cutting using CNC router - not laser. I'm not wild about gluing singed edges yet. This project is going in the queue. A very long queue...

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 1:14 PM

redbiscuits

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I'm going to put in the TF cockpit interior kit, in fact I just bought the paint from Hobby Lobby the other day. I toyed with the idea of doing a hidden switch compartment and door but I just about have myself talked out of doing it. Not sure that its worth the extra trouble. I will have one switch for the radio, one small one for the ignition, and an air fill valve. Still thinking.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 3:09 PM

Doomking

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Rethink that idea.
I have switches showing in my giant scale TF p-51 and after I added all the scale details like rivets, panel lines, nomenclature, scale cockpit .....etc , to this day I still kick myself for not building a little hatch to conceal the switches and air chuck.
In addition when I started building hatches for my other birds I was also able to include in it those little air gauges that show your pressure at glance without the need to attach the pump to the fill valve.
At your building stage with your skills it will take you a couple of evenings to build one, and in the end you will be glad you did.

Just my opinion.

Fabio

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 6:25 PM

CapeEynon

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That's a great point Fabio. I like that idea. As well as the built in pressure guage for the air lines. Just a thought thinking ahead, what are general thoughts on electric vs air retracts? I'm still toying with the idea of the electrics, but the fewer the moving parts the less likely they will screw up in-flight.

I have the fin/rudder done on mine, and going to finish up the stab today hopefully (I had a bit of a setback on that, but nothing major). I'll post pics later.

Gary, I'm curious what your bird weighs in at with the glass? What total weight are you shooting for/expecting realistically?

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 6:46 PM

redbiscuits

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Okay then, I will lay me up a hatch on the starboard side right under the canopy. The full scale has a hatch in that exact location. I guess I'll get to work on that this afternoon.

As for weight, I'm hoping for anything under 25#'s. That shouldn't be too terrible IMO, I built fairly light and I am taking care to squeeze out all the excess resin when putting the glass on.
Right now I'm at 15.5#'s with retracts, wheels, cowling and all control surfaces. Will see where she comes in at a little later on with paint, engine and radio gear.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 10:31 PM

redbiscuits

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Finished laying up the hatch

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 10:40 PM

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Cape....
I have few giant scale warbirds two of them with Robart Gear and one with Sierra.
Never had any issue to speak of aside from some rough landing that needed to replace some of the retracts housing. Totally my fault and not the retracts.
For some reason I am not jumping on the electric retract bandwagon just yet.
Just like 2.4 that want to make my $1000 MHz obsolete,I am still using it to this day with great satisfaction particularly since you can purchase a $200 RX for $25.
Developing teams I think have to come up with something new all the times to justify their salary.
For the retracts I have to agree that electric take away the "leak" frustration if that what most people are complaining about pneumatic.
I always use "collars" to all connection and my planes still hold 100 psi overnight.
I am not too familiar with electric retracts, but one thing that scares me is that unless they run on a separate battery (more cost for battery and switch

) if the retract jams on the way up or down, it will probably drain the battery altogether.
I am aware that there is a device that you can buy separate that stop the battery drain in case of a jam (again more cost to it)
Lastly in case of a rough landing where in the pneumatics you can just replace the plastic housing and you are good to go, I am not sure what would happen to the electronics in the same situation if the would get ripped from the wing like it happened to me in the past......do you need to buy a whole new unit? are there spare parts??
For those of you familiar with electrics please chime in.....I would like to get educated.

Till than I am a pneumatic guy

Fabio

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/29/2012 10:57 PM

redbiscuits

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Fabio,

Have you replaced any of your Robart housings with the metal Sierra ones? I have heard that the Robart ones are a little weak and performance is better with the Sierra upgrade.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/30/2012 12:22 AM

redbiscuits

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This is what I have so far. I have rare earth magnets and I also have offset hinges. I was thinking of using the magnets on four corners. Any thoughts?

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/30/2012 12:27 AM

WacoNut

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I would try just 2 at 1st. The little buggers are pretty strong and the ones closest to the hinge line will not offer as much holding power as the opposite corners. I have them holding the doors closed on my 1/3 Waco and I am using 2 per door.
Later!!
Anthony

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Post #: 248

RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/30/2012 12:52 AM

redbiscuits

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Good point Anthony, I'll try two on the top corners and countersink them in so everything closes flush.
I will work on making the door flanges and start to box it all in tomorrow.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/30/2012 12:14 PM

CapeEynon

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Doomking

Cape....
I have few giant scale warbirds two of them with Robart Gear and one with Sierra.
Never had any issue to speak of aside from some rough landing that needed to replace some of the retracts housing. Totally my fault and not the retracts.
For some reason I am not jumping on the electric retract bandwagon just yet.
Just like 2.4 that want to make my $1000 MHz obsolete,I am still using it to this day with great satisfaction particularly since you can purchase a $200 RX for $25.
Developing teams I think have to come up with something new all the times to justify their salary.
For the retracts I have to agree that electric take away the "leak" frustration if that what most people are complaining about pneumatic.
I always use "collars" to all connection and my planes still hold 100 psi overnight.
I am not too familiar with electric retracts, but one thing that scares me is that unless they run on a separate battery (more cost for battery and switch ) if the retract jams on the way up or down, it will probably drain the battery altogether.
I am aware that there is a device that you can buy separate that stop the battery drain in case of a jam (again more cost to it)
Lastly in case of a rough landing where in the pneumatics you can just replace the plastic housing and you are good to go, I am not sure what would happen to the electronics in the same situation if the would get ripped from the wing like it happened to me in the past......do you need to buy a whole new unit? are there spare parts??
For those of you familiar with electrics please chime in.....I would like to get educated.

Till than I am a pneumatic guy

Fabio

That's what I figured. I didn't realize leaking was an issue on the pneumatics. What do you use for collars?

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