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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 3/30/2012 11:56 PM   
EJWash1



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That's always a proud moment!


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 3/31/2012 12:09 AM   
Zor



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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits

She's standing up on her own.



and soon she wil have shoes and an overcoat  

Beautiful _ _ _ you can feel proud of your build and assembly.

Zor



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 3/31/2012 1:32 AM   
redbiscuits



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Thanks Guys, It was a very proud moment. the neighborhood kids enjoyed seeing her together for the first time.

Time for some wing fillets, she's starting to look more like a jug everyday.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/1/2012 5:44 PM   
redbiscuits



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More on the fillets......
A little sanding, panel lines and rivets is all they will need.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/1/2012 11:14 PM   
Zor



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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits

More on the fillets......
A little sanding, panel lines and rivets is all they will need.


redbiscuits,

I read back but did not find what you used for the material the fillets are made of (or made with).

They look real nice.

? ? ? . . . Thanks

Zor


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/2/2012 1:17 AM   
redbiscuits



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http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topa0415-manual-v1_1.pdf

Page 46 and 47.....

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/2/2012 4:57 AM   
Zor



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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits

http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topa0415-manual-v1_1.pdf

Page 46 and 47.....


Thanks for the reply redbiscuits.

I was not able to save that pdf file or see any of it.

I tought your fairing was so nice I could have some idea how you do that.

Forget it.

Zor


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/2/2012 6:20 AM   
EJWash1



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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits

http://manuals.hobbico.com/top/topa0415-manual-v1_1.pdf

Page 46 and 47.....


When I subscribe to a build thread I download the model's build manual when possible so I can follow along. Such is the case with your build. Even though i already have a copy of the manual, I followed the link that you posted and did not have any problem arriving at a copy of the build manual.

Your fairings came out pretty smooth.


< Message edited by EJWash1 -- 4/2/2012 7:18 AM >



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/2/2012 8:35 AM   
Zor



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redbiscuits,

I seldom save pdf files and had forgotten how to do it.

I now have it saved and looked at page 46 and 47.

That is a neat trick to make a fair size fairing.

Thanks again for the information.

Zor


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/2/2012 11:23 AM   
redbiscuits



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The only thing I did different from the instructions was use light weight spackling instead of balsa filler. I have pretty good luck with it, it is pretty cheap and doesn't crack.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/4/2012 3:01 PM   
redbiscuits



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Hey Billberry,
If your still following along, where did you get the zinc chromate color you used on your firewall?

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/6/2012 2:03 AM   
redbiscuits



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Started doing a some glassing on the finished surfaces. Using 3/4 oz. with Z-Poxy finishing resin. I hate the mess, but the final result is worth it IMO. I tried the Poly method on my little 47 and it looks okay, but nothing like a good ole' resin job will give you.
I also finished up the aileron horn mounts, I ran out of filler so I have to wait till tomorrow to finish sand them. Also have the servo mount covers finished and ready to glass.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/6/2012 3:39 PM   
redbiscuits



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More....

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/6/2012 11:22 PM   
redbiscuits



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In case anyone out there is wondering, I use the Fast-Nfinal lightweight filler pretty much exclusively on everything under the glass. I haven't tried it above the glass, as I don't think it can stand up to wet sanding. But it is what it says, Lightweight...If your around Lowe's or Home Depot sometime, pick one up and compare it with the other fillers out there, nothing else even comes close.

I am also trying out some new primer. Dupli-Color High build primer. Mix it 1.1 with the reducer and spray. I'm tired of the rattle cans and I am looking for a better method. I will let you know what I think after experimenting with it. Can't really beat the price for $24.00, and I end up with a half gallon, I know I will at least go through that many cans of primer on this project, and I wont have to deal with the cans spitting chunks this time.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/7/2012 12:25 AM   
Fleet


 

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I've been using the lite weight stuff for years.  Works well, easy to sand even though you will sand it down faster than the wood so some attention has to be paid to that.
 
I really like the newer stuff that is pink (DryDex by Dap) and turns white after completely drying.  
 
I've even used in under butyrate and nitrate dopes.  Can't play with it as it will soften but a quick application and later second coats prove to be OK.

Red Devel had some on the market in the past but have not seen it lately.

Ray W.
 
 


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/7/2012 6:36 PM   
redbiscuits



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I thought I would just like to say, there is nothing like watching filler dry and epoxy cure........Don't look at it to long or you'll get mesmerized as I did.
I think I'll change it up and go watch the grass grow....

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/7/2012 8:16 PM   
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Re. filler for use over fiberglass: Squadron Putty comes in small tubes of white or green and can be used to fill cracks and pinholes in fiberglass. The white is great under light color finishes while the green is best under dark color finishes. Just smear on a dab and it's ready to sand in 30 minutes. I've been using it for years, so I know that it works. I've been following your progress with great interest. Your steady progress and attention to detail are very impressive. I may even put my AT-6 back on the bench and finish it after seeing how easy you make it look.

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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/7/2012 8:45 PM   
HoundDog


 

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Anyone ever hear of a product called Sand EZE it's used in automotive paint shops.
 anyone have any experience using this on models?



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/8/2012 2:56 PM   
redbiscuits



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quote:

ORIGINAL: d-dog

Squadron Putty comes in small tubes of white or green and can be used to fill cracks and pinholes in fiberglass. Your steady progress and attention to detail are very impressive. I may even put my AT-6 back on the bench and finish it after seeing how easy you make it look.


Thanks d-d, I'll look into that.
I know you told me before about your AT-6, It's an old Byron kit correct?

quote:

ORIGINAL: HoundDog

Anyone ever hear of a product called Sand EZE


I've never heard of that, I did a google search and turned up nothing.



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/8/2012 3:58 PM   
HoundDog


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: redbiscuits


quote:

ORIGINAL: d-dog

Squadron Putty comes in small tubes of white or green and can be used to fill cracks and pinholes in fiberglass. Your steady progress and attention to detail are very impressive. I may even put my AT-6 back on the bench and finish it after seeing how easy you make it look.


Thanks d-d, I'll look into that.
I know you told me before about your AT-6, It's an old Byron kit correct?

quote:

ORIGINAL: HoundDog

Anyone ever hear of a product called Sand EZE


I've never heard of that, I did a google search and turned up nothing.


OOOPs it's Sandys
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/AutomotiveFinishes/Clausen_Primer.html
Don't know if this is good for Modles but great for Auto Body work.



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/9/2012 2:29 AM   
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 Looks Great, dude! How long 'till it is finished do you think? A couple of questions...

Are you planning to glass the whole thing? or only the elev, rudder, ailerons, retract doors?

How are the Robart retracts working? I've heard, ... not great things about them closing all the way. Also anyone else, which retracts are the best for this one? I'm planning to do this as my first build as I have a local who did this exact one and can take me through a lot of it..

I've heard they are the most forgiving to build and the most forgiving to fly. I'm working my way up to "the others."

Deryk


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/9/2012 11:57 AM   
redbiscuits



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Hi Deryk,
Welcome to RC Universe.

Yes, I am going to glass the whole airframe, followed by panel lines and other details. I need to be done with this by the first of June.

Robart retracts work fine as long as care is taken installing them. I would have bought their new electric series had they come out a few weeks earlier, story of my life....



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/9/2012 1:40 PM   
CapeEynon


 

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Thanks for the welcome!

Doesn't glassing add a lot of weight? I guess it doesn't really matter on an engine of this size...

Also on the Robarts ... do they "pop" in and out, or do they have the slow scale look of moving slowly up and down? When I do mine, I think I'm going to have the opposing small landing gear door that will close off the whole wheel well. I'll have to get some help rigging up the sequencer for that, but there are plenty of them around. 

I like the way you modded the rudder and elevator tips too. I think i'm going to do that as well...


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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/9/2012 2:01 PM   
HoundDog


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: CapeEynon

Thanks for the welcome!
 
Doesn't glassing add a lot of weight? I guess it doesn't really matter on an engine of this size...
 
Also on the Robarts ... do they "pop" in and out, or do they have the slow scale look of moving slowly up and down? When I do mine, I think I'm going to have the opposing small landing gear door that will close off the whole wheel well. I'll have to get some help rigging up the sequencer for that, but there are plenty of them around. 
 
I like the way you modded the rudder and elevator tips too. I think i'm going to do that as well...

Check out this sequencer on RCU
http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=836230



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RE: Top Flite Giant P-47 Build - 4/9/2012 2:34 PM   
redbiscuits



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Glassing can add a lot of weight if you just glop it on and don't wet sand it back. The way I overcome this is by thinning my epoxy with denatured alcohol. I mix my epoxy in a graduated cup with equal parts of each (1 part resin, 1 part hardener, 1 part alcohol) Mix small batches as needed, a little goes a long way. Apply a thin coat of resin on the part you are glassing, lay your cloth on and get the wrinkles out, then try and squeeze out the excess resin with a plastic scraper or a playing card. At this point all your trying to do is adhere the glass to the wood. After it cures out, what I do, is come back and apply a second thin coat to fill the weave. I then wet sand with a sanding block and 320 grit to level the surface and take off excess resin, then I prime. Primer should also be sanded back as much as possible to avoid excess weight.
It's a tedious process, and everyone has their own method of what works for them. But the end result is very gratifying. You can do a search and find a 1000 different ways,
This one works for me.

As for "scale" retract speed, I prefer my gear to just work. I don't use air restrictors to slow the gear down, I want enough pressure to lock and unlock them so I don't have problems. I would go with electric retracts if you are looking for a more scale gear cycle. Robart is releasing a whole line this year for all the Top Flight warbirds, and there is also a company out there that is retro-fitting air gear with electric motors. ( search: Down and Locked)

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