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RE: Curare construction ARG - 8/31/2011 11:30 AM   
chino_2005


 

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Thank you David! Very interesting.

That´s the way I´ll finish my next pattern plane.

 


< Message edited by chino_2005 -- 8/31/2011 7:55 PM >

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 8/31/2011 7:42 PM   
doxilia



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no need for thanks. Everyone has their own building style.

Looking forward to seeing it come alive!

David.

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/1/2011 1:58 AM   
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Yes, but I´m learning constructionsmethods and this will help me to improve my skills.



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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/1/2011 1:59 AM   
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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/2/2011 3:31 PM   
chino_2005


 

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Hi,

I´m concerned about glueing thespoiler-flaps directly to the brass tube without any brass plate or something likethat. The plan doesn’t call for it.

Have you ever glued this kind ofsurface without any problem?

Another question, does anyonehave recommended control throws for the Curare?

Thank you!



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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/2/2011 6:39 PM   
MTK



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quote:

ORIGINAL: chino_2005

Hi,

I´m concerned about glueing thespoiler-flaps directly to the brass tube without any brass plate or something likethat. The plan doesn’t call for it.

Have you ever glued this kind ofsurface without any problem?

Another question, does anyonehave recommended control throws for the Curare?

Thank you!



Chino,

I used the spoiler/flap device on my Arrows and actuated them with torque rods, similar to how ailerons are actuated. The wing's TE was common to both sets of torque rods so to make ailerons work and spoiler'flaps work, I stacked the aileron torque rods above the spoiler flap torque rods. If I remember correctly, I had a small piece of TE stock permanently attached to wing TE where the spoiler flap ended; about 1" wide. The aileron torque tube which was brass 1/8" ID, was glued to the wing TE and had that small section of triangle stock work as outboard support for the torque tube. A very secure arrangement.

Underneath the aileron torque tube was the spoiler flap torque rod which extended the length of the spoiler flap. The proximal and distal ends were secured to the wing with short lengths of Brass torque tubing. I brazed small L shaped brackets onto the rod so that the spoiler flap could be actuated. Epoxied the rod directly onto the flap after fitting the L shaped brackets properly........ OKAY that was then and it was heavy, however, it worked very well with single servo actuation in the wing.. But the wing now carried aileron servo, flap servo and retract servo; a rather messy set-up by today's standard

If I were to do this again, I would use small servos embedded outboard in the wing to actuate spoiler flaps. JR makes mini servos that weigh less than 1 ounce that have plenty of strength for spoiler flaps

Speaking spoiler flaps, my ratio of flap area to spoiler area was around 60% flap sticking down to 40% spoiler sticking up. I used 1/64" ply for the spoiler piece. It was surprisingly effective and caused no unwanted mixing or pitching...just slowed the plane down quickly. Been thinking about using the device on my 2 meter wings to slow downlines; would need to be slaved to low throttle. Hope this helps


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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/5/2011 10:51 AM   
chino_2005


 

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Thank you MTK!

The problem is that thebrass tube is already installed and will be difficult to weld a support in thiscondition.

I´ll see if I glue theflap-spoiler directly with epoxy.

See the photo bellow.






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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/5/2011 8:58 PM   
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Status: offline 		Aileron and spoiler-flaps servo instalation.




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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/10/2011 1:59 PM   
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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/10/2011 2:50 PM   
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Status: offline 		www.parkflyerplastics.com has a plastic canopy for the curare.

Jim

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/10/2011 3:21 PM   
chino_2005


 

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Thank you Jim! I´ll see if they have what I need. But I´m in Argentina and maybe the shipping cost is high.



< Message edited by chino_2005 -- 9/11/2011 5:38 PM >

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/11/2011 4:48 PM   
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Status: offline 		an easy way to get a curare canopy is to trim an hélicopter canopy, like a raptor 30 and so much other...

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/12/2011 12:59 PM   
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Status: offline 		Thank you Daggets! I´ll see if it can fit.

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/14/2011 5:35 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi there, I've enjoyed the pics and would love to be able to get the plans to the Curare 60 if avail. Thanks, Kenny J

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/14/2011 5:55 AM   
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ORIGINAL: helisrme

Hi there, I've enjoyed the pics and would love to be able to get the plans to the Curare 60 if avail. Thanks, Kenny J

Here you go Kenny

Attachments
Click to see the file in new window.Attachment.pdf Click to see the file in new window.Attachment.pdf


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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/14/2011 10:51 AM   
chino_2005


 

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/14/2011 3:12 PM   
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Status: offline 		Hi chino, I like the speed of the retracts. Did you use just regular air restrictors?

Thanks,V.

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/14/2011 5:11 PM   
chino_2005


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Vasek,
In this video I used two standard robart restrictors ( http://www.robart.com/products/air-line-restrictors).
Chino
I

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/20/2011 2:36 PM   
chino_2005


 

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/20/2011 3:42 PM   
doxilia



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Status: online 		Nice work Chino,

...and a Curare shall emerge from the wood work!

If I may make a suggestion; you might like to try putting some masking tape around the stab near the root at the fuse junction. Maybe it's just my sloppy carving/sanding technique but I find it helps to avoid gouging the sheeting and LE.

Once you're fuse is sanded to shape, you can use the tape technique to produce a clean line in producing the fuse/stab fillets - just an idea.

Have you given any more thought to the finishing yet? If you have or plan to buy a compressor, it might be interesting to try water based color paint all cleared with urethane over top. Paints like Autoair make nice water based paint:

http://www.autoaircolors.com/

David.

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/21/2011 10:54 AM   
chino_2005


 

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Thank you David!

I´ll try to use the technique that you suggest me about sanding the tail area. Next time I´ll finish the fuse first.

About the painting, the page you give me is very interesting, now I´ve to find something like that here in Argentina.

Chino



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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/21/2011 11:35 AM   
chino_2005


 

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/21/2011 11:46 PM   
bjr_93tz


 

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Status: offline 		On the subject of the airbrake mounts, I soldered on some tabs before mounting everything but I see that's almost too late for you.

You could still solder on some tabs, if you had a really hot iron, clean brass, plenty of flux and a third hand, without damaging anything. I just butted my tabs to the tube and ran a fillet of solder down each side. You won't melt the brass or the torque rod inside it. If you're worried about the heat spreading a damp cloth about 1 inch either side of the brass tube where your soldering the tab on will stop the heat from spreading too far.

It will probably burn any grease you have in there though?

Cleanliness is the key to this job.

I wouldn't trust just glue (of any kind) to secure the airbrakes to that brass tube.

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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/22/2011 3:04 AM   
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Did you cut the profile in the rear fuselage straight from the plan to fit the stabilizer or did you have to measure and modify it? Very nice work. I'm thinking of doing the Curare 40.

Jim



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RE: Curare construction ARG - 9/22/2011 7:19 AM   
doxilia



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Status: online 		Note sure exactly on the configuration of the brake installation on the torque tubes but didn't Hanno have the brakes built as an extension of the flaps?

My recollection was that the flap deployed down with and as they did, the brake extended upward since it continued over top the tube on to the wing TE. A shallow recess the thickness of the brake ply was made to result in a flush insertion of the brake on the wing top when the flaps were retracted. This of course would also require the brake plate to be inserted (i.e., recessed) into the flap so that it would be flush with the top of the flap.

It sounds like it has been done with 1/64" ply but that sounds a tad thin to me and easily prone to cracking. I'd use 1/32" 3-ply for a little more rigidity. This aspect is certainly tricky to rig. Nice job so far Chino.

BTW, if needed, you could use steel armored epoxy such as JB Weld to bond the ply to the tubes. Roughing up the surface of both is required. Painting this area will also be tricky in the absence of being able to remove the flap/brake for finishing. In light of this and despite the great work you did building the torque tube mechanism, I'd be inclined to going with Matt's (MTK) suggestion of using dual outboard flap and aileron servos. The pair of servos for each control set could weigh the same as a single standard center mounted servo (i.e., 0.7 oz servos vs a 1.5 std servo). In order to hide all the varios rigging, flat mounted servos on ply plates with protruding arms (i.e., scale model like) would be a nice way to go especially in a built up wing.

David.

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