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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/12/2011 6:14 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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From: steamboat springs, CO, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks, Mike! I'm using Elmer's Wood Glue Max, 5 and 30 minute epoxy, and medium and a little thin CA. Trying to move from CA to wood glue mostly.
I hope you'll share your Nieuport with us. Engine or motor?
The roofing went on the cabin yesterday. This weekend we're forecast to get a foot of snow. It's coming down!

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/13/2011 6:40 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		I've jumped ahead of the instructions again and am forming the cowl cheeks. Lightweight aluminum sheet is provided for these. It's really thin and seems a bit brittle. It's shiny on one side and primered a blue-green color on the other for your choice of finishes. I laid out the angles and scratched the cuts into the sheet with an awl then cut deeper with a single edged razor blade. Then the sheet snapped easily along a steel ruler. A baseball bat was chucked into a vise and the triangular shapes formed to the curvature required. The bat worked nicely. The pieces were clamped between two wood blocks aligned on the bend lines to create the screw flanges. These slight bends were made nice and straight but it's going to take more adjusting to get a flat flange along the edge of the conical cheek shape.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/14/2011 1:42 PM   
ARUP


 

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Status: offline 		The cheek material looks like developed lithoplate. That stuff is handy for all kinds of things.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/16/2011 3:02 AM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		The fuselage servo installation is made of liteply and popsicle sticks. A servo tray was cut from the kit's die cut sheets. Popsicle sticks are glued onto the tray for servo rails. They run across the fuselage to provide stiffness and good screw anchors. Small liteply pieces are glued to the fuselage sides. They locate the tray at the proper height and are keyed for it to lock onto. After the tray is glued into these pieces some balsa will be glued to both the top of the tray and the fuselage sides to lock everything together. This should be fairly lightweight and locate the servos at the very front of the area above the bottom wing. There will be just enough clearance for a Sullivan 8 ounce tank to slide in past the servos. The tank will be at the bottom of the fuselage while the servos are located at its top and mounted upside down.

Balsa USA sent the replacement cowl. It's the same size as the original. Therefore I'll try cutting it down. Some fiberglass and epoxy can strengthen the joint.

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< Message edited by debspersonaldogwalker -- 11/16/2011 3:39 AM >

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/16/2011 5:47 PM   
R8893


 

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Status: offline 		Don't know if you have tried this process, but I used it on the ABS cowl of my DR-1 (and several other ABS parts on other kits). Reinforce the inside of the cowl with fiberglass cloth applied with PVC pipe cement. Epoxy doesn't stick very well to ABS. One does have to be careful not to use a lot of the PVC cement as it will soften and distort the plastic.
Chuck

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/16/2011 11:20 PM   
ARUP


 

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Status: offline 		How much 'too big' is the cowl? You might be able to wax the inside of your ABS cowl a few times, spray PVA release into it a couple of times then glass the inside of the ABS cowl for a slightly smaller duplicate. If it is still too big it is easier IMHO to cut the glass one and smooth the joint than to do the same on the ABS one. I really like the popsickle stick idea 'cause I'm a very frugal personage. LOL

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/17/2011 12:28 AM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		ARUP, your cowl suggestion is sounding very good, not only resizing but getting the better 'glass unit to boot. I've got the ABS cowl drilled and screwed to the top 5 mounting blocks. It's gapped at the other two about 1/8". I don't know anything about wax or PVA release. Car wax? I've got automotive repair glass cloth in coarse and fine weaves, polyester resin, and 30 minute epoxy.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/17/2011 1:25 AM   
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Status: offline 		If you do that, check the size of the opening on the cowl. The hole on the BUSA cowl is too big, so if you're going to do a glass cowl it would be a good chance to correct it. It's a pretty distinctive feature of the Scout.

The cheeks on the fuse side really look good. I'm impressed that BUSA uses thin sheet metal for that. You did a nice job of forming them.

Jim

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/17/2011 1:46 AM   
jdtl15


 

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Here is a few pics of my Tommy.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/17/2011 5:33 PM   
ARUP


 

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Status: offline 		Get 'Bondo' brand (polyester) resin and hardener (MEKP- don't get it in your eyes!) from auto parts store ~$20, cheap acid brushes, acetone to clean up, roll of toilet tissue, toothpicks as mixing sticks, graduated mixing cups, 4oz cloth ~ 3 layers in cowl, Sig used to sell small cans of parting wax (no silicone content) and PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) mold release- inquire locally at auto paint shops, Fibre Glast, Inc. etc. Wax and buff the inside of your cowl a few times. Spray (preferred) or brush PVA (it is water soluble) 2 or 3 times, let dry between each application. Now, mix 10 drops of hardener to 1 ounce of resin- a little more hardener if cool- do a test batch and let harden in cup. As you mix it you will see color change from pinkish clear to dark and 'not so clear'. Put pre-cut strips of cloth in cowl and stiple the resin into it. This stuff stinks but needs warm temps (70 and up) for best cure although it will cure when cold. If the resin starts setting up then clean your brush with acetone and mix another batch in another cup and continue adding glass. I always leave a little resin in bottom of cup so that when it hardens it is easier to pop out and re-use cup! You can use epoxy resins but they are more expensive and health hazardous. You will have enough resin left over for many projects! Once the resin has cured you should be able to tease the part out. Curing times depend on temps and the amount of catalyst or hardener you add. The more hardener you add the hotter the mixing cup gets!

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/18/2011 7:03 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Here's the cowl mounted with the cooling hole made. BUSA provides a half-round 4" diameter template for this. I scaled from some drawings and think I got a more scale look.

The valve covers on the Saito are 1/8" from the ABS. I'm thinking about some of that thin aluminum sheet from the cowl cheek sheet spaced 1/16" off the cowl as a heat shield. The engine is completely within the cowl. I could remount it more vertically to solve the clearance issue.

Because of the engine-to-cowl lack of clearance I may leave the cowl at its full diameter size. Cutting it to fit the fuselage better would have the engine touching it. There is still a 1/8" gap between the cowl and the bottom two mounting blocks which are located at the fuselage box bottom corners.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/18/2011 10:33 PM   
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Status: offline 		The full scale has another vent right about where your valve covers are. Might give you more air flow in that area and you could skip the heat sink...

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/18/2011 10:39 PM   
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Status: offline 		Closer up...

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/18/2011 11:14 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks, BB, I've been thinking of that one for the glow driver. I want to put in the air inlets also.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 11/28/2011 6:16 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		I've made horns of 1/16" birch plywood and stained them with a Minwax Stain Marker. They space the connector holes 2" apart. Additional bracing was installed.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 12/12/2011 6:39 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		I've been busy since Thanksgiving. I make and serve pizza at 9100 feet elevation at Steamboat ski area. Warmest job in town! Good food, great people.
Here's the rudder control setup. A metal threaded rod from the servo operates a tiller for the pull-pull cords. The cord is nylon coated kevlar. The tiller is 1/16" birch plywood. The cords cross and pass through a former for the straightest lines possible through the near-to-scale openings through the fuselage surface. There is an upward angle created as the cord goes through the fuselage surface and up to the scale horn location. Therefore the cord also puts a bending force on the rudder clevises and horn. I'm hoping that gentle flying will keep things together.

Hmm...the horn could be angled downward to put it it the plane of the pull cord. All three tail horns could be adjusted this way. It wouldn't be perfect but maybe better. Those ball-in-socket horns Sullivan makes would be perfect.

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< Message edited by debspersonaldogwalker -- 12/12/2011 11:15 PM >

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 12/12/2011 9:17 PM   
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Status: offline 		Does the nylon coating prevent abrasion? I've heard kevlar is not very abrasion resistant, but maybe your material is. Nice control arrangement.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 12/12/2011 11:17 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Yes, BB, I think this cord is very abrasion resistant compared to bare fiber. It's slick and shiny, a lot like electrical wire insulation, actually.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/12/2012 10:43 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Hello again. The Scout sat all winter while I skied and made pizza. I was stuck on the elevator linkage. I wanted another tiller bar like for the rudder but just couldn't see how to do it. This one needs to be vertical and handle four pull-pull cables, two to each elevator. Finally it just came together. The upright heavy piece of basswood carries the tiller and is angled so the plywood brace doesn't interfere with the tiller.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/12/2012 11:05 PM   
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Status: offline 		Nice clear photos, thanks.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/27/2012 4:25 AM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Yippee! I've got the tail surfaces operated by pull-pull cables. Two cables to the rudder and two to each elevator. Fuselage exits for the cables and the control horns are in scale locations. The lines will probably be Spectra kite line. The nylon-coated kevlar seems too sticky.
Photos tomorrow. After being stuck all winter this is exciting.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/27/2012 7:55 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		Sullivan brass threaded couplers are crimped onto the Spectra line and used with nylon clevises. The sharp angle from the cable to the elevator cables required another fitting between clevis and horn and the clip part of small fishing swivels were used. It seems like it's going to work. Comments/criticism welcomed.

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< Message edited by debspersonaldogwalker -- 5/27/2012 8:25 PM >

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/27/2012 8:28 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		cables need tightening and adjusting


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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 5/27/2012 8:37 PM   
debspersonaldogwalker


 

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Status: offline 		A quick video of the elevator movement
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8POcNp-zZGQ&feature=youtu.be

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RE: Balsa USA 1/6 Scale Thomas-Morse S-4C Scout Build T... - 7/16/2012 12:20 AM   
Wagon1



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Status: offline 		How is she coming? Looks great so far. I love your cable set up. This kit is on my "short" list so I have been following this thread closely. Please let us know how you are doing?

_____________________________

"Leave the gun, take the cannolis"

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