erans

Since I remember myself my favourite warbird was the Me-109. Unfortunately, it is hard to come by a good "30cc" size ARF of this aeroplane which was what I was looking for. So, Ihave decided to build one myself.
I will be upfront with the fact that Ihave no intention to build a master scale reproduction. Ido not have the skill or the time for that. Instead, Iwill build this Fliteskin "kit" to "sport scale" standard where Iwill use scale details when they are easy to obtain or make. This "kit" is of very high quality and can easily be built into a competition grade scale project. You can see example of what can be done in Casey's build on this thread and Jose's build on this thread

Unfortunately, Ihave decided to take detailed photos after the commencement of the project, and therefore the actual build of the horizontal stabiliser, elevators and rudder is partly done when the detailed photos start. I was also extremely slow in my build due to very restricted time, so, Ihave waited until I made some substantial progress before submitting the photos here.

Ihope you will enjoy the very detailed photos which I hope will clarify some sections of the build which is not very detailed in the instructions and photos on Jose's original build thread in RCSB.
Also Ido have some scratch build experience, my previous project was some 20 years ago and was a 0.70 4 stroke bipe, nothing like the complexity of this project. Ido understand that this "kit" was not intended for such low experience builder like myself, but, Ilike the challenge.

One last note before I continue, English is not my first language, so Iapologise in advance for grammar and spelling mistakes.

Eran

erans

After some communication with Jose regarding what is available for this Kit and payment method sorted, the "kit" arrived in perfect condition to Australia with all the available accessories (July 2010...). Like a kid in a candy store, Iwas quick to open everything up (which took some time due to the neat packaging) and was very happy with what Isaw.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Can't wait to see what you do! It's such a nice kit to build. I've been slow with mine as life and two kids cut into shop time. I'm off to Vienna for a couple of weeks, and am still waiting on my ESC from castle creations to be returned after the recall.

Casey

erans

I started my build with the Rudder to "easy myself" into it. I have almost immediately made a mistake when laminating the Rudder TE gluing the parts in the wrong order, but it was easy fix. Ifound the rudder construction more complex then expected heaving to create the triangles, and it did required a lot of sanding... Perma-Grit sanders came very handy throughout this build.
Most photos here were taken today (Sep 2011) as I found I only had one photo from the construction period in August 2010...

erans

Thank you Casey, you know Iam following your build for a long time now and envy the work you do, however, Iwill try to throw a simple spin on this kit.

Back to the build, Ihave then tackled the horizontal stabiliser. This is built in two halves glued together. I have again struggled to get it perfect, but will attribute it to my build skill. Ialso found that it is slightly warped, and after spending a lot of time thinking on solution decided to leave it as is and hope it won't effect the flying performance too much. The Elevators are built in similar method to the Rudder, and again, as can be seen in the photos, I got the laminating order for the TEwrong and had to fill in with some balsa . Again, do not under estimate the amount of sanding required for this stage... You do want to have a good set of sanding tools

From here, it was into the unknown. My first fibre-glass preparation and implementation, and, this is where Ihave started to take much more detailed photography "diary" of the build.

erans

As Ihad no idea how to do fibreglass sheeting, and heaving no one to ask to show me how, Iturned to the next best thing, YouTube... Ifound some surprisingly good movies which detailed the process, so Ithought Iam ready to try.
For my first try, I had to try on something less costly, so Ihave made a simple cambered shape by gluing two sheets of thin balsa at the trailing edge and sticking round stick 1/3 distance from the leading edge and glued the LEtogether.

Using thin fibreglass cloth (3/4 oz 1 Square Yard), Idid my practice run and it went surprisingly well (first photo). Iwas using the Z-POXYFinishing Resin which someone recommended in another build thread and Ican testify now that it is very easy to use and give excellent result.

Now with more confidence, Istarted to prepare the stabiliser surface using Hobbico Hobbylite Filler and sanding with gradually finer sandpaper. Due to my less then perfect sheeting on one of the sides (which looked like sagging), I had to glue second lair of local sheeting and sand most of it down to fill.. Eventually, I was ready for the fibreglass work.

erans

Now the moment of truth arrived, and it was time to glass the actual stabiliser. Iwas surprised how smooth it went and it looked very professional when the two coats of resin were dry and sanded.

erans

The next stage was unexpectedly difficult, cutting the whole in the fin for the stabiliser... It took a lot of trial and error to get it perfectly right.
Iused chopped fibreglass cloth mixed with long cure epoxy to glue the stabiliser in place inside the vertical fin, creating "triangle" with the glue.

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Erans,

On this page http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...398&PN=1&TPN=9
I documented the building of the stab/elevator and mounting on the fuselage.
Two things: I always mount the stab on the fuse with the wing bolted on to make sure everything is square.
Also, the ply elevator hinges were not glued to the stab until AFTER the stab was positioned in the fin.
First I slide the elevator horn/ply hinge asembly through the stab slot, then I slide in the stab and last I glue the ply hinges to center ribs of the satbilizer. I cut a small slot on the bottom sheeting of the stab to line them up.

JG

erans

Thank you for the comment Jose.
At the time Ibuilt the stabiliser, I could not see a way to glue the horn/ply hinge assembly after the sheeting due to the shape being tapered towards the TE. I am not worried too much about it as I haven't even decided if I am going to use it for driving the elevators the way you designed it, or if I will be using servos mounted at the back of the fuselage as done on sport aerobatic aeroplanes. It is all probably depends in how easy the CFrod will line up with the hole on the landing gear former F5B and how easy it will be to re assemble the c-pin into the hole while attached to the stabiliser.

As to making sure the stabiliser is square, I have used reference points in the fuselage and am confident that I will be able to align everything properly. As the wing was not built at the time, Icould not use it and Idid want to get some some progress.

Eran

erans

My next stage was to glue former F5 into the fuselage. This is mounted in an angle in pre-determined distance from the tail landing gear opening so, if you decide to have the retractable mechanism operational, you can (Ihave no such ambitions and many of the Me-109 had the tail wheel locked open anyway).

I also didn't want to cut any hatches into the fuselage which will test may capability to close them afterwards, so Iknew I am for a challenging gluing task. Ican only say that Idid this stage when I was alone at home, so my wife and daughter will not hear the cursing which was getting worse and worse as time passed and I was repeatedly failing to align the part and hold it for the glue (I was using pins through the fuselage behind the former trying to hold it in place). This was, to my memory, the most amount of time I ever spent on a single part assembly, and by far the most frustrating. but, it was eventually done.
In the photos you can see the former and the Robart #121 before assembly. You need to remember to have the blind nuts in and secure them in place before you assemble the former as without a hatch you will never reach that side of the former again... Then, few of photos of F5 in place.

Now, the Robart #121 is requiring some modifications to the axle to allow the wheel to protrude from the bottom of the fuselage. Since Ihave no machining skills, Iwas a bit stuck now... Ialso think that without properly looking tail wheel with the mud guard the aeroplane look greatly effected.

erans

Desperation was sinking in the more Ilooked into fabricating axle for the tail wheel. Locking the retracting mechanism was easy by replacing the bending arm, but nothing I could do will make nice mud guard wheel as was on Jose's plane... This is one part Iwould have been happy to pay for with the rest of the "kit" accessories.

erans

While at the airfield, my friend Noal from my flying club offered to take on the challenge and build me a good looking tail wheel. He has fabricated the mud guard and attached two 3/32" wheel collars, to allow removing the wheel. He has also machined an axle to conform to the wheel internal diameter and the 3/32" music wire to conform to the shape of the wheel plastic hub which is different in both sides. Iwas like a kid in the toy store when he gave it to me...

erans

I then had a period of time where Icould not commit time to the build, so, to make myself feeling good, I painted the exhaust stacks... Ifound doing it almost therapeutic
Iwas using Revell "Email Color" MAT #83 for the "rust" look, and flat black (#8) for the inside and then sprayed with flat clear lacquer.
It is amazing how good are the accessories Jose supply with this "kit". Someone with some more talent then me can really make this into a masterpiece.

trent smith

Hi erans, I will be watching this build with Interest. I am curious weather you shipped the kit direct from Fliteskin to your door or did you find a local Importer. I was Interested on the shipping costs if the first option you used. Cheers Trent.

erans

Still looking for a quick task, Ithen covered the Elevators side at a time (4 sessions). Ihave used "Solartex pre-painted, iron on, fabric covering" for the first time. I found it to be very easy to apply and it looks and feels great. Ihave no intention to go further and apply stitching etc, the "fabric" feel is as close to scale as my aeroplane is going to get.
Once fitted to the stabiliser, it really give the tail that familiar Me-109 shape.
With this done, I came to the stage where Ihave to make some decisions if Iwant to continue working in the fuselage. Ihave some un-resolved issues that Iam still thinking on:
1. Will Iuse the designed elevator control or use servos at the back
2. Will I use pull-pull for the Ruder (my usual preferred Rudder control method)? Ihave no idea how to figure out where Ineed the cable exits holes from the fuselage to be drilled, and Iam afraid to butch the moulded fibreglass in my quest to get it right... Obviously Ialso didn't yet decided where Iwill place my radio gear and with that the Rudder servo...
3. Iam considering placing a servo for the tail wheel steering behind the tail wheel (the space into which it will normally retract into). Undecided yet if this will be easier then using pull-pull from the Rudder servo, not to mention the weight in the back...

Too many decisions to make for the fuselage, so Iwill buy the engine (The new MVVS 30cc petrol), exhaust, receiver and rest of the radio gear and get back to it later. It is time to build the wing, and this is all Idid in the first year since receiving the "kit". Now, over the last week, I started on the wing and got the structure of half almost complete, which I will detail in my next few posts.

erans

trent - Jose sent the lot to my door. His customer service is excellent. Contact him through the e-mail address on his website. Icannot recall the shipping costs, it was a while ago. You also should factor insurance costs considering the value of the package...

JGrc

My Feedback: (29)

Eran,
looks to me you're doing a fine job building the tail section. If it's scale is a hassle!

I've installed a bunch of tail formers in glass fuselages and found the method you used, using pins through the fuse skin to hold the former in position, works like a charm.
Also, you can use wood screws instead of bolts and nuts to hold the Robart retract. I only use the bottom 2 screws ( the top 2 do not take any loads) and is very easy to remove the retratc with a long thin screw driver through the fin post. I also put rubber gaskets in between the retract and the former to absorb the bouncing of the tail.

To build the tail fork, I cut a piece of thin brass sheet and soldered around the wire.

In regards to the elevator pushrod, it probably be easier to use one pushrod thrugh teh center of the fuse. The hole on the former should line up exactly. I've been using this technic in all my warbirds, never had a failure. Make sure you put a tube around the clevis to prevent disengagement. You can always inspect looking through the tail wheel opening.

Looking forward to see the wing build!

JoseG

erans

Hi Jose

Iwas wondering if you have a good close-up photo of the Rudder control and steering setup from your Me-109? Ithink you have commented to Casey that you have used Pull-Pull on your Rudder setup, but from the photo you have attached it is very hard to see it.

Back to my build, the wing was delayed for a year due to the fact that Ihave only one working table in my "work room". If the wing is partly built and require being pinned to the table, and Ineed to do maintenance on my other aeroplane, I am in trouble... So, finally the opportunity came up to have some time off and do what Iwant, so here it is...

Before Istart I will mention that Iwas mostly following the sequence as described in Jose's build, but Ihave done some sub-sections in different order where I found it more convenient.
Ihave started by cleaning the table and getting the bible (the build article by Jose from in RCSB) on the laptop for reference. Then, Ihave made the two main spars and pinned the bottom one to the plans so there is single line of reference.
The laser cut ribs were lined up and each pinned in place and checked for perfect vertical. Then the bottom spar was raised into the corresponding notch in the ribs (the ribbs have a little tab at the bottom to allow building directly on flat surface even that the wing is tapered at the spar). It is very important to note here NOTto glue rib W1 as it is not vertical, but conform to the dihedral which will be added later. Idid glue it and had to open it...
At this stage, Ihave also added the plywood doublers to ribs W2 and W3

erans

Next, the top main spar was added, followed by the TEspar.
Ihave added few photos showing the transit from 3/8" square to 3/16" x 3/8" on the two main spars between W6 and W7, and the change from 1/4" square to 1/4" x 1/8" on the TEspare in the same location (for the top spar)

erans

The next step was to glue to the front of all the ribs the 1/4" square sub-leading edge. Once done, it allow the gluing of W6B which is where the slat edge will slide on. At that stage I have also prepared the slats operating rod sleeve and glued it to sub-rib W9B and W7B (for both half wings while I am at it), and glued the sub-ribs in place.

erans

The next stage was to cut rib W1 for the wing joiner. Still not aware of the alignment problem, Ihave just followed the sequence as on Jose's build.
By the way, if you do not have one of these little saws, it is one of the most used tools during the build...

erans

The next stage was to cut sheet of 1/4" balsa to create the leading edge and glue it to the sub-leading edge. Thie is also done where the slat is.

erans

Ihave then tested the fit of the air tank and the brass rod which aligned perfectly. It is a testimony to the laser cut ribs accuracy.
Also checking it, Iam not sure yet if I will use the brass rod, change to CF rod or even won't use any rod, but will drive the surfaces by individual servos. Jose has indicated to me, when I have queriedit to him, that he think that the method as designed is the simplest, but, I am not sure if I have the capability to fabricate the system he has designed, and Ido not mind if servo arm will be hanging under the wing as done in sport aeroplanes.

erans

Now, back to the comment regarding rib W1. When Iadded the wing joiner, I found out that rib W1 required to be aligned with the centre line which is conforming to the dihedral. Some cursing and slow work with the knife, and many minutes later, I have opened the glue and was ready to glue the wing joiner and rib W1.
Ithen glued W5B false rib which serves to contain the huge wheel beyond former W5. To align it Iused a bit of 3/8" x 3"16" where the forward spar will go.