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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/12/2012 4:38 AM   
Boomerang1



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Status: offline 		If you have problems with tape goo try kerosene (not jet A & with out oil mixed in it.)

Don't ask me why but it seems to disolve tape & sticker adhesive & is usually kind to paint.

Saw a sticker on a restored 60's car in a magazine - ''built, not bought''. No need to explain.

Must go, time to do some painting myself, crap weather here & a BVM Sabre needs some colour.

John.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/12/2012 3:33 PM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for the tip. I'll try Kero after I get the paint to harden up a bit more. Checked the yellow today and it is dry and not tacky at all. The blue is still tacky. I set the plane out where it will be in the sun today. See if that doesn't help harden it up. Anybody have any better ideas?

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/12/2012 4:49 PM   
FenderBean



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Status: offline 		if u have a enclosed trailer or shed that is in the sun will help cure better. Humidity is most likely causing your paint problems, damp air is bad to paint in.


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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/12/2012 6:39 PM   
ron Sweeney


 

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Status: offline 		I will be interested in the weight of the model once assembled, lets know. I think we have all shared your heart ache having been there many times. I ended up ''peeling'' the soft paint off my BVM Sabre after six months of waiting till it hardened... it never happened. Hope you have more luck. A great model and well done, Ron.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/13/2012 1:52 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Setting the plane in the sun today has helped dry the blue paint. Only a few tacky spots left. Another day or two and I think it will be OK.

I weighed the plane tonight at 5 1/2 lbs. I extimate glassing, priming, and painting has added about 1 1/2 lbs to the model. That seems like alot to me. The last time I weighed it was before the tailcone was sheeted and the canopy was made. At that time it was 4 lbs.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/13/2012 2:23 AM   
thunderchief


 

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Status: offline 		Terry,
I am betting that when all is said and done it will be right at 10lbs 12oz. That's my official guess.....any other guess.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/13/2012 3:29 AM   
tlj125


 

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/13/2012 4:14 AM   
thunderchief


 

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Status: offline 		Dry,....I believe that was about the weight of Bobby's F-100... I have spoken!!

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/14/2012 2:17 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		I think I just got served! It's on now!

Trimed the old canopy until I got a good fit. Then traced the perimeter onto the newer canpoy with a felt tipped pen. Cut it out with siccors and sanded the edges with 600 paper. This is an older canopy that I got from Glenn. It was used to make the plaster mold to vacuum form more canopies with. It is a bit scratched up but I decided to used it anyway.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/14/2012 2:23 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Glued the canopy on with 30 minute epoxy all around the inside edges. Put a piece of wax paper under the hatch to keep it from getting glued to the fuse. Used some blue masking tape to hold the canopy in place until the glue hardens. I used too much glue but I didn't want to have any gaps around the edges.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/14/2012 11:43 AM   
Xairflyer



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Status: offline 		what about the pilot?

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/14/2012 1:44 PM   
JeffH


 

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Status: online 		As a suggestion, next time attach your canopy during or before the glassing stage so that it can be faired in smoothly and allow you to mask the canopy frame to be painted with the plane. Also, RC-56 canopy glue is spectacular at holding canopies down.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/15/2012 1:43 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		I may put a pilot in latter. I have masked off the canopy and plan to paint around the edges. I don't plan to fair it in. It would look a little better but it doesn't look bad. I have tried RC-56 with mixed success. The last one failed so bad that I swore never to use it again. Epoxy works everytime.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/17/2012 1:44 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		I spray painted around the edges of the canopy and also painted the inside of the inlets and exhaust nozzle. At least as far as I could reach with a small paint brush.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/17/2012 6:42 AM   
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Status: offline 		looks great

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/17/2012 10:35 AM   
Bob_B



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Status: offline 		Looks great! youll have her done just in time for the cooler fall flying weather.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/18/2012 6:07 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks guys. I can't wait to fly it.

Glued on the control surfaces tonight. Had to do some sanding and fitting due to paint build-up. Used 30 minute epoxy with Robart hinges. Put glue in the holes with a toothpick first. Made sure I had plenty of glue in the holes for the elevator rods to slide in to. Put some oil on the just the hinge area on each Robart hinge before gluing to keep them free. Taped each control surface good and tight and waited for the glue to set.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/18/2012 6:36 AM   
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Status: offline 		BEEN A NICE THREAD TO WATCH -

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 4:02 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Had to switch over to digital servos and make new plywood servo trays. The analog servo on the retract would move when the receiver was turned on causing the gear to collapse. Put a digital servo in there and the problem went away. Also noticed the analog servos would not rotate as smoothly as the digital servos. The were more jumpy and twitchy. So I switched to JR 821 servos and they work fine. Soldered together the control cables and hooked everything up. Tested with the radio. Have a little bit more play in the rudder than I would like. The ailerons and elevator are not too bad. Just a little bit more play than if linked direct. This appears to be due to the gap in the tubes with the cables. For some reason the rudder has more play in it. Probably because it is the longest run of tube and has more bends in it as it snakes through the bulkheads. Getting about 1/8" or so play. Would like to know what others got. The cables are not sticky at all. Just concerned about the rudder at this point.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 4:09 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Here are a few pictures of the cable connections to the control horns on the elevator and ailerons. These look better and work pretty good. Better than I thought they would.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 5:24 AM   
Love To build



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Status: offline 		So how close is it to the maiden? With that 1/8" play, Can you see the cable housing through the fuse. I usually lock down the outer sheath of the cable with CA everywhere I can. Some models more then others. Same thing happens to me with the Sullivan NY-rods. Hopefully it will be another tack and it will be gone.

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 4:16 PM   
John Tancock


 

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Status: offline 		Love the plane, love the thread, can't wait for the outcome!
They were so popular in the late 80's and 90's, with the power of a 44 it will go like a missile!
Paint job looks good, very slippery!



JT

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 4:52 PM   
Bob_B



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quote:

ORIGINAL: tlj125

Had to switch over to digital servos and make new plywood servo trays. The analog servo on the retract would move when the receiver was turned on causing the gear to collapse. Put a digital servo in there and the problem went away. Also noticed the analog servos would not rotate as smoothly as the digital servos. The were more jumpy and twitchy. So I switched to JR 821 servos and they work fine. Soldered together the control cables and hooked everything up. Tested with the radio. Have a little bit more play in the rudder than I would like. The ailerons and elevator are not too bad. Just a little bit more play than if linked direct. This appears to be due to the gap in the tubes with the cables. For some reason the rudder has more play in it. Probably because it is the longest run of tube and has more bends in it as it snakes through the bulkheads. Getting about 1/8'' or so play. Would like to know what others got. The cables are not sticky at all. Just concerned about the rudder at this point.



Terry it looks like your rudder cable comes up out of the fuselage at a pretty sharp angle. Then you're bending it with your horn placement.
Robart makes a horn with a ball built into it and Hamilton Hobbies stocks them. I think if you change the horn position to match the angle of the cable you'll eliminate the slop to an acceptable amount.


http://www.robart.com/products/58-ball-control-horns


Looking forward to seeing your new jet fly so let know when you plan to do the maiden flight.

< Message edited by R_Belluomini -- 8/27/2012 6:55 PM >

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/27/2012 5:26 PM   
thunderchief


 

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Status: offline 		Terry,
I am getting excited!........it looks great. Let us know when. Don't forget to weigh it.
Glenn

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RE: Thorpe F-20 build - 8/28/2012 4:26 AM   
tlj125


 

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Status: offline 		Bob- I agree the angle is not very good. It looks better when one of the inner holes is used. I move to the outer holes to see if it would help but it made no difference. I think that I am just going to have to live with it for now.

Glenn- I weighed the plane tonight with most of the components installed except tanks and solenoid valves. Came it at 9.9 lbs. Checked the CG and it is about 1.5" back. I'll have to put some lead in the nose.

Made a tray for mounting receiver, ECU, etc. It sets just above the servos. I'll have to cut the canopy floor for clearence for wiring and the main fuel tank. Here are a few pics.

Current plan is to maiden at the DOGS show in Dayton on Friday.

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