RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview    Gallery
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
    Search This Thread  
 
Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Boats >> RC Submarines >> RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview
Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3   next >   >>  

Tower Hobbies Get Coupon Codes Brands  
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 3:21 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Okey,now that we have the water intakes cut out,we can go onto attaching the prop tubes to the hull.First make sure you have a level table (picture one) Set boat in stand.making sure rear fins are level.(picture two) I made a stand from wood to hold up the rear of the prop tubes.I measured from the side fins on the main hull to get a idea of how tall the stand has to be.Be sure stand is also level before you put the stand under the rear of the fins.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 26

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 3:31 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Tape front of prop tube to main hull. Make sure prop tube fins are level with main hull side fins.Also measure rear of tubes distance from center skeg to inside of each prop tube,to make sure they are a even distance apart.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 27

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 3:49 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		If your going to do a static display model you can skip this section.On mine I want to do a RC model.The seaview needs to have rear diving planes in the rear prop tubes,to add in the diving process.Put some sort of straight edge from one center ot the rear tube to the other marking sure straight egde is center in tubes this will show were the rear 5/32 diving planes shaft will go.Put a mark were the diving shaft will go on the skeg.Then take a straight edge of cardboard to put a marked line on the skeg.This will show were the shaft hole will be drilled.On to making the rear planes.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 28

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 4:29 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		This was suppose to be the first picture in the above post,it shows the straight edge across the tubes.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 29

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 4:50 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		The diving planes,are cut out of brass sheet.Primer was sprayed on the brass so I could mark the cardboard pattern easier.Second picture shows the cut out brass planes.Slots were cut on the sides of the planes to accept the 5/32 locking collars,which will be soldered next.Collers are center in planes,then silver soldered.On the left tube,a 5/32 hole is drilled 7/8 in from the outside edge of the tube.Both tubes are then mounted back on the boat,by using the wood stand,and taping the tubes in there place.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 30

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 5:05 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Put a piece of 5/32 rod thru left tube,and up against inside of skeg.Mark area were rod went up against skeg.Remove left tube and drill a 5/32 hole thru center skeg.Put left tube back on hull.When in right postion take a longer 5/32 rod thru left tube and skeg,push rod thru untell it goes up against inside of right tube.Make sure everything looks even and level.Remove right tube and drill 5/32 hole thru inside of right tube.Remount right tube and check to see if everything is level.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 31

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 5:10 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Put brass diving planes on 5/32 brass rod.and check to see if planes work freely.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 32

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 5:27 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		When the 5/32 control rod looks to be centered in tubes,cut a brass tube that slides over the 5/32 rod.make it a little longer then the center skeg.Place the tube in the center skeg.Run the 5/32 rod thru the tubes and sheg.When everthing looks good,tack glue the center skeg bushing in the skeg,then use epoxy glue to fasten the bushing in the skeg.I marked the 5/32 rod to were I wanted to silver solder a control arm to the rod.Install the control rod the the tubes in there places.Next step will be to make sure everthing looks even and level.Then you can epoxy the tubes in there places. More later.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 33

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/6/2011 11:26 PM   
Aeroprado



Posts: 9
Score: 100
Joined: 2/20/2010
Last Login: 7/22/2012
From: Peruibe Beach, BRAZIL
Status: offline 		Airwalk.

A beautiful kit. I did not know, I am following since the beginning of the assembly.
If you can, tell me what engine and propeller you will use? ,
and also the radio frequency transmitter, for I am building a submarine Typhoon stylized type.

Congratulations.

_____________________________

Airplanes fly in and take them down!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 34

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/8/2011 4:15 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the nice complenents on the seaview build,Aeroprado.Your Russan sub sounds like a interesting project.Right now I really don,t have a idea of what engines or props that I will use.Once I get the model more done,I will know more about these areas. I will get my radio from caswell,as they will know on what freguency to use. David Merman showed interest in possible making a complete sub Driver for this 80 inch Seaview.Time will tell more on this area.Thanks for watching my build.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Aeroprado)
       Post #: 35

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/8/2011 2:53 PM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Aeroprado, I, and Im sure others would like to see posted pictures of your Typhoon class sub build.That way we can share imformation with others.Like I said it sounds like a very interesting build!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 36

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/8/2011 6:11 PM   
spongjim


 

Posts: 8
Score: 100
Joined: 1/19/2005
Last Login: 12/21/2012
From: , AL, USA
Status: offline 		Airwalk ,I have been looking at a set of electric duct fan housings to go in my 80 Seaview . I got two off my A 10 warthog that look to fit in the tubes ,with a little cutting. If I change them over to brushless there should be more than enough thrust for the seaview. The EDF housing will direct all thrust out the tube ,where the props have alot of room around the edges and loose thrust. Just a thought right now ,I am going to try it out when I get the other project done I am in the middle of. Following your build ,looks great . Thank you for sharing this build with the rest of us.


Jim H

Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 37

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/9/2011 2:03 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		spongjim,Keep me posted on that duct fan housing converson,I like to see on how that works! It maybe something that we could all possibly use. Thanks Dennis.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to spongjim)
       Post #: 38

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/9/2011 5:08 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		After a few days of work,I can get back to the Seaview project.Its the weekend now, and time relaxing with this build.I finished up on the prop tubes,by applying 5 minute epoxy to the top and bottom seams of the tubes.You can use 30 minute epoxy if you want,this will give you more time to smooth out the resin.I mixed some white pigment to the epoxy glue.This will give it more of a color to work with.I also thicken up the glue with a little epoxy thickner powder. Both the white pigment and powder can be brought from any fiberglass suppler.After I applied the glue,I then toke a clean rag,with rubbing alcohol to smooth out the glue.Then 6oz fiberglass strips were added to the inside seams of the tubes. Now the tubes are done.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 39

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/9/2011 5:23 PM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		After the prop tubes are finished,it time to install the rear center skeg.I decided to finish the seams around the skeg area untell later. The skeg and prop tubes will be finished later,so that is why the tubes and skeg are not sanded,and look to have a rough finish. I first marked a area were the 5/32 skeg shaft goes.A bushing is supplied over the 5/32 shaft.Drill out the hole large enought for the bushing.Install the skeg with the bushing,and tape skeg so that it is straight up and down, and even.I then mixed up some epoxy glue with fiberglass powder.I added the powder for strength.I then toke a long stick with the epoxy glue on the end and carefully put the glue around the shaft bushing,from the inside of the boat.Being carefull not to get glue on the 5/32 skeg shaft.After this was dry,I put the skeg steering arm on the shaft,by using the 440 control arm to reaching in the rear of the hull.I then toke a long L wrench to tighten the set screw.Skeg should turn freely. To make it easier to tighten the set screw I toke a long piece of rod,and drilled a hole in the end of the rod the size of the L wrench.I then welded, or JB weld, the L wrench in the hole of the rod.You can now reach easier to the back of the boat,to tighten the set screw.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 40

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/10/2011 3:52 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		To install the two rear rudders,first level the boat in the stand,and level across the top of two rear fins. place rudders into tubes, and center them. Mark the center on the tubes with a pencil.Tack glue in the brass rudder arms with super glue.Check to see that the rudders is even and level with the prop tubes. when you think everything is in the right place,use epoxy and glue the brass arms in the tubes..when dry install rudders in brass arms.You can carefully bend the brass arms if you need to.Next install control arms between rudders and center skeg,Ajust control arms so rudders are even with center skeg.Make sure rudders can turn freely with skeg control arm,adjust if there is any binding.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 41

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/12/2011 2:26 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		I was going to show on how to mount the three escape hatches on the top deck,but I decided to make a new hatch.After a day and a half I came up with the new hatch.The last thing to do was priming it mounted on a wooden stick.Then the stick fell hitting the floor and sending the hatch flying some were in the shop! There are days when you wished that you should have stayed in bed and this was one of them!After a hour I finally found the hatch.I quickly made a rubber mold to capture it! the pictures show the old hatch and the new one. soon I will show on how to mount them.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 42

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/13/2011 3:17 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Today went a little better.I decided to work on the sail details.First picture shows the sail holes cut out for the bridge and radar wells.Insert both wells in there locations,leaving the top edge of the well sticking above the sail a little.Tack glue in the wells with a lttle super glue.Make sure radar well bushing in bottom of well is straight from side to side by inserting brass rod to check this.If everything looks straight and level put epoxy glue around the wells to fill the gaps.When dry sand the top of the wells flush with the top of the sail.I put some epoxy glue to the inside of the sail to add strength.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 43

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/15/2011 10:06 PM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		Back to the escape hatches.Three pictures show the small magnets super glued to the bottom of the hatches.And installing them in there places.The magnets are from radio shack.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 44

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/16/2011 4:34 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		The perscopes,are the next thing to add to the sail.I drilled two 1/8 dia holes to the top of the sail.I then cut two brass tubes to fit in the holes.Leave a little of the top of the tubes above the top of the sail.Put to brass 1/32 rods in the tubes,this will show you if the rods are straight up and down.super glue the tubes to the inside of the sail. Sand off the tops of the tubes on the sail.Then install the perescopes.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 45

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/16/2011 3:28 PM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		One of the things that made the seaview stand out was the rear water intakes,they looked like shark grills! To put them on the boat I had to first clean up the intakes.I did this by taking a dremel tool with a sandind band ,and carefull sanding the inside of the grill,then a used a sharp xacto tool to clean out the openings.I placed the grill on the location and marked the area were the grill fits on the openingnand mark with a penciil.I took a piece of 3/16 plastic to make sure every grill was the same distance from the bottom of the fin.I sanded the area were the grill fits on the boat.Then I super glued the grill one.Take your time and measure to make sure grill are the same distance from the front of the fins.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 46

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/16/2011 3:41 PM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		A lot of the main work is done.Next will be installing the sail radar dish,cutting out the flying sub bay area,And getting ready to install the watertight nose compartment,with the windrow beams. and windrows.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 47

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/17/2011 2:32 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		On this seaview,the flying sub door is molded with the bottom of the hull.You can leave the flying sub door on the model if you want,it will work great for display.I wanted to make my seaview a RC verson.I also wanted to install the watertight box,with the interior in the nose.First I marked the outline of the door with a pencil.Then I took a dremel tool with a cuting saw blade to do the work.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 48

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/17/2011 2:43 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		I put two of the same pictures on the last post.sorry.Before you cut out the door assembly,be sure to wear nose and eye protection when cutting.I carefully cut the door out with the Dremel.I finished cutting out the door by using a Razer saw for the corners.Last pictures show the cut out flying sub door.I can now easily install the water tight nose compartment later.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 49

RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview - 10/19/2011 5:25 AM   
airwalk


 

Posts: 419
Score: 100
Joined: 4/26/2005
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Springfield, SD, USA
Status: offline 		A few shots of the finished radar screen.A few years back, I made one of these screens rotate,it looked great and made the model come to life!

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to airwalk)
       Post #: 50

Page:   <<   < prev  1 [2] 3   next >   >>  
All Forums >> RC Boats >> RC Submarines >> RE: Building the large 80 inch seaview
Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3   next >   >>  




Jump to:


 
Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

RC Universe is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2013.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America


1.047RCU1