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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/16/2012 4:40 PM   
DieHard1207



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Also guys, I started a thread where people tell other people about how they got into rcs. So please check it out. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11183063/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/16/2012 5:48 PM   
cumquat



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Status: offline 		if 2s can make one wheelie on gravel, a fairly slick surface, what do you think will happen with 3s? it will be way too much power, especially when all you know is nimh. i had experience with at least some power, i'd owned rc's for 2 years and had been driving them for 6, and i still had some trouble controlling 2s. these things are just too light to fully put the power down and when they manage to, the front lifts at the drop of a hat. not saying it's not fun, just trying to let you know you of what to expect. i like overpowered rc's just as much as the next guy but 3s would be so far past overkill that it would make a savage flux seem adequately powered. not trying to scare you (much), i would just hate for you to break it on your first run.

which battery were you going to get?

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/16/2012 5:50 PM   
cumquat



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Harlow

do you run stock gearing with it? 

i think i may have. i spent more time doing speed runs so it spent some time running 72/35

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/16/2012 7:44 PM   
JSS4


 

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Status: offline 		YES cumquat!  I am running mine 35/81 at the moment and I had to turn on punch/traction control because it sounded like my pinion was slipping when I punched it. I found with traction control on, it would get moving for about 10 feet then throw in everything it had. Too bad my motor guard was broken.

Thanks also for the advice about 2s/3s packs. I think I'll go 2s because I can fit a higher capacity pack for longer runtime. Next up is a motor blower, it gets pretty hot after a run, which drains a 3000 MAh NiMh pack in 3 mins.


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/16/2012 9:36 PM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		I was going to get the Venom 5000mah 35C 11.1v pack. And as you know I would run it with my velenion 3S esc and 3500kv motor. Do you think that'd work good?
quote:

ORIGINAL: cumquat

if 2s can make one wheelie on gravel, a fairly slick surface, what do you think will happen with 3s? it will be way too much power, especially when all you know is nimh. i had experience with at least some power, i'd owned rc's for 2 years and had been driving them for 6, and i still had some trouble controlling 2s. these things are just too light to fully put the power down and when they manage to, the front lifts at the drop of a hat. not saying it's not fun, just trying to let you know you of what to expect. i like overpowered rc's just as much as the next guy but 3s would be so far past overkill that it would make a savage flux seem adequately powered. not trying to scare you (much), i would just hate for you to break it on your first run.

which battery were you going to get?



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/17/2012 4:12 AM   
cumquat



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Status: offline 		this one? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZDV9&P=SM

for that price you can get a gens ace 2s AND 3s http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-3s1p-hardcase-direct.html http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-2s1p-hardcase-direct.html
both of these packs are better because they are hard case (if you ever wanted to race, most tracks require hard case and it"s just a good idea anyway), they are 40c and their connectors are the easiest to solder. not to mention you get the insanity of 3s and the relative control ability of 2s, and if you get an E-8th scale down the line you can use these packs together in series for 5s.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/17/2012 4:28 AM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		Are they good packs?

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/17/2012 5:24 AM   
cumquat



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Status: offline 		as good as associated. i ran 1 all last year (over discharged it and it puffed) and never an issue (until my negligence).

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/19/2012 6:39 AM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

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Status: offline 		EXT2Rob

Do I recall correctly that you were using "music wire" in lieu of spring pins for your axles?


If you so, does it  fit loosely in the axles, or do you have to press it in with a pair of pliers??

I was looking at some today and it either went in loose, or not at all.

Thanks

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/19/2012 7:06 AM   
cumquat



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Status: offline 		slightly loose is ok because the channels in the wheel are closed at the ends. i used brass wire (.032 or something like that) folded over on my ext and they worked pretty well.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/20/2012 2:09 AM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		What does lipo balancing mean? What is there to balance when charging? I understand stand the lipo cut-off on the esc.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/20/2012 3:43 AM   
cumquat



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Status: offline 		if the cell voltages are off my too much, bad thing will happen. most lipos dont need balance charging very often, if at all, but since it's literally 1 more plug, most do it every charge. i havent balanced my lipo in a month or 2 and it's fine (although, it sat for most of that time). it's pretty straight forward. most chargers nowadays have built-in balancers so all you do is plug in both plugs, set the charger to balance charge, set it up like you normally would and start charging.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/20/2012 1:51 PM   
JSS4


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: cumquat

slightly loose is ok because the channels in the wheel are closed at the ends. i used brass wire (.032 or something like that) folded over on my ext and they worked pretty well.


I had that problem as well. What I did was find a nice rod a bit too thick and drilled out the axle to fit. So far so good.



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/20/2012 7:24 PM   
Harlow


 

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Status: offline 		does anyone have a blue motor guard they want to get rid of? I see Duratrax discontinued it.... 

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/20/2012 9:48 PM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		Ebay has a green one. I saw a blueone on Ebay awhile back when I was looking for one.  You could spray paint it Blue. Just a thought.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/21/2012 2:42 AM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

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Status: offline 		That is kind of what I figured. With a spring pin, you obviously have play so it compresses. But with a solid roll of wire there is none compression.

When I was thinking about this as a solution, I thought back to my motocross days as a kid, when I replaced main bearings in my scoot. You had to heat up the center cases and freeze the bearings. When both parts were warm/cold enough, the bearing dropped into the aluminum case with a "snick" sound. They would come out again with the help of  10 ton press. 

Totally irrelevant. But if you are into wrenching, pretty cool nonetheless . . . .and proof that science IS cool.

BTW - I went to my local hardware store here in Richmond Va, Pleasants Hardware which is in the ACE hardware lines, and found some tension springs for the dogbones. They were like 1.00 for 4 of them. That's pretty handy since the 'bones I ordered are on the Duratrax boat from ChengDu or where ever they make this stuff. 

Thanks
NTR

quote:

ORIGINAL: cumquat

slightly loose is ok because the channels in the wheel are closed at the ends. i used brass wire (.032 or something like that) folded over on my ext and they worked pretty well.



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/22/2012 5:38 PM   
EXT2Rob



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quote:

ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

EXT2Rob

Do I recall correctly that you were using "music wire" in lieu of spring pins for your axles?


If you so, does it  fit loosely in the axles, or do you have to press it in with a pair of pliers??

I was looking at some today and it either went in loose, or not at all.

Thanks


Yeah, the wire I use for the axle pins does fit a little loosly. You have to use a little blue loc-tite.  But you'll never break an axle pin again. The only time I have to replace it is when I loose one!



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/22/2012 5:40 PM   
EXT2Rob



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quote:

ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

EXT2Rob

Do I recall correctly that you were using "music wire" in lieu of spring pins for your axles?


If you so, does it  fit loosely in the axles, or do you have to press it in with a pair of pliers??

I was looking at some today and it either went in loose, or not at all.

Thanks


Yeah the music wire does fit a little loosly, you have to use a dab of blue loc-tite, but you'll never break one again.
(Sorry, double post.  Network hiccup)



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/22/2012 6:04 PM   
DieHard1207



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Call ur LHS and ask em if they have em in stock. Mine did.



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/22/2012 6:11 PM   
EXT2Rob



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Status: offline 		Hey Burnin',  I agree that 3s LiPo would be too much for your ST. The diff may not be able to handle it, especially if you're running the plastic diff gear and grippy tires.  Get a Gens Ace 2s 30C LiPo for $24 and you'll be happy.

But you did have a question about the diff shims, so you are running the metal diff, aren't you?  The shims go behind the wide end of the spyder gears, between the gears and the case.  I believe they are there to keep the gears from rubbing on the case and to keep proper mesh.

I've posted this before, but here's the thing on the metal diff:  it has EIGHT of those little case screws, four on each side, unlike the plastic one.  And those screws like to come loose.  if that happens, your spyder gears loose mesh and can strip out in a hurry.  I strongly advise that anyone with a metal diff that if you haven't done this already, do it now!  That is - take it apart and clean it thoroughly especially the screw holes. Reassemble one side using blue loc-tite in the screw holes. Don't use too much as you'll still need to get the other side on.  Fill the case with you choice of diff fluid, or like I did, and use Trak-Power gear grease, and assemble the other side same as the first.  Let it sit for a day to fully cure, then put it back in the tranny and grease up the tranny with Gear Grease.  I REALLY LIKE Trak Power grease, the blue stuff in the little tub. Used to be called Grim Racer Speed Grease.  I've had ZERO issues with the metal diff since.  Oh and I also used music wire to replace the pins behind the bevel gears in the diff.  The stock pins would break on me.  Crappy Chinese metal......


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/22/2012 6:14 PM   
EXT2Rob



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Status: offline 		Hey NTR,  are you talkin' 'bout the little springs that go inside the drive cups? Or the pins that go in the ends of the dogbones?


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/23/2012 2:39 PM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		I am running the metal diff. I did forget to thread lock them though. If they do come loose, won't they also tear up the gearbox? I do have the right shims and they are behind the spider gears
quote:

ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

Hey Burnin',  I agree that 3s LiPo would be too much for your ST. The diff may not be able to handle it, especially if you're running the plastic diff gear and grippy tires.  Get a Gens Ace 2s 30C LiPo for $24 and you'll be happy.

But you did have a question about the diff shims, so you are running the metal diff, aren't you?  The shims go behind the wide end of the spyder gears, between the gears and the case.  I believe they are there to keep the gears from rubbing on the case and to keep proper mesh.

I've posted this before, but here's the thing on the metal diff:  it has EIGHT of those little case screws, four on each side, unlike the plastic one.  And those screws like to come loose.  if that happens, your spyder gears loose mesh and can strip out in a hurry.  I strongly advise that anyone with a metal diff that if you haven't done this already, do it now!  That is - take it apart and clean it thoroughly especially the screw holes. Reassemble one side using blue loc-tite in the screw holes. Don't use too much as you'll still need to get the other side on.  Fill the case with you choice of diff fluid, or like I did, and use Trak-Power gear grease, and assemble the other side same as the first.  Let it sit for a day to fully cure, then put it back in the tranny and grease up the tranny with Gear Grease.  I REALLY LIKE Trak Power grease, the blue stuff in the little tub. Used to be called Grim Racer Speed Grease.  I've had ZERO issues with the metal diff since.  Oh and I also used music wire to replace the pins behind the bevel gears in the diff.  The stock pins would break on me.  Crappy Chinese metal......




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-If I can''t fix it, it ain''t broke

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/23/2012 8:10 PM   
Harlow


 

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Status: offline 		Thought I post a couple pics of the ST I originally got for my youngest son. I came across an EXT so out came the electronics from the ST to the EXT. So the St is mint to get running and I decided to convert it to an EXT2. Still gotta decide on what motor to run and get a radio and receiver. Here's a couple before and after pics.
 
before
evader st" alt="" />
 
after (so far)
evader st to ext2" alt="" />


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/24/2012 2:42 AM   
DieHard1207



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Status: offline 		Where'd you get the tires/wheels? Tower? LHS? eBay?

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 8/24/2012 3:29 AM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

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Status: offline 		The pins that go into the end of the dogbones.  I got to searching bc mine were roached from a year of brushless abuse. I looked in my parts bin and I had one dogbone, but its pins were roached too. So I order from Tower, only to find the bones were backordered until late August.. <yikes>

So I started looking. They were too long, but a dremel tool took care of that. 



quote:

ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

Hey NTR,  are you talkin' 'bout the little springs that go inside the drive cups? Or the pins that go in the ends of the dogbones?




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