RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.    Gallery
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
    Search This Thread  
 
Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more >> RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Page: <<   < prev  4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11 12 13   next >   >>  

Tower Hobbies Get Coupon Codes Brands  
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 5:05 AM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

Posts: 104
Score: 100
Joined: 4/4/2011
Last Login: 2/3/2013
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Good eye. That's a great motor for 24 bucks. My TACON 3200KV motor rips. As discussed elsewhere in this thread . . .  if quality control on their tranny parts is not up to snuff, there will be lots of pi$$ed of evader buyers and hobby store people. They are playing with fire. 

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Link119)
       Post #: 126

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 5:43 AM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
Score: 105
Joined: 3/11/2010
Last Login: 3/29/2012
From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Alright guys got the trans apart and at first the diff was locked up, jammed i couldnt get it to budge, i took it apart and found NOTHING wrong with it. Someone posted earlier about some new washers inside the diff at the spider gears but there are none, there is a small gasket between the output chaft cover and the gear itself  you will see it in my pics. So upon further inspection i found my original topshaft and idler gear were messed, you can see the idler gear kinda mushroomed, you will also see the grass  clippings from me running it in the grass still sitting on top of the chassis plate and this was after cleaning it up b4 actually pulling up the trans from the chassis lol.  Hope the pics are good for those that dont have or have not taken apart the metal diff gear yet, I already have the new Brushless Evader top Shaft but now i will have to also get the idler,
i do not reccomend using your original gearsIII
replace all gears "inside" the trans with all Brushless Evader gears or you will have your trans apart in a few days again lol.
 Mind you i only run this on two 8.4v 3000Mah NiMh packs and i have the traxxas velineon system on it, or i did anyhow so this is prob half the power you guys are running with castle systems etc...  lol
Ok im done now this things going back to stock with full metal gears once i get the new idler. then i'll prob sell it, eaby and or here on RCU or a few other places that work well for me.
K im done babbling!! Heres pics!!
Later!!
















_____________________________

JRockZ

Hide Signatures

(in reply to NoTraxxisRustler)
       Post #: 127

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 7:06 PM   
rclugnut10



Posts: 5821
Score: 200
Joined: 4/12/2008
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: Hinsburg , VT, USA
Status: offline 		agreed good catch on that tacon motor i have one of those and it's pretty solid lots of power not quite on par with my castle 4600 but it's quite powerful... i've had no issues with it, it's odd they're using a tacon sourced motor with that CC esc i just assumed they did what hpi did with their CC rebag's and use the motors and the esc's, or slightly tweaked versions... i'll have to look at more pics and if i get into the shop i'll grab some of the tacon... my only complain with it, is the wires are really stiff... but in all honesty i just bend um and call it good...

i'd comment about DTX parts control but i haven't bought tranny parts in a while partly due to stocking a bunch at home, and not driving my evader a ton... i'm running the stock dtx ball diff with an ext2 idler and a B4 spur setup... we'll see how it goes at some point been very busy the past few days and we have a few in of snow on the gorund so i may not drive till may :/ bleh

the lug

_____________________________

Savage Flux 2350 Evader ST Pro EXT ''Detta ST E Choas, HPI E Firestrom Novus CP

Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 128

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 8:43 PM   
shenlonco



Posts: 3878
Score: 124
Joined: 5/7/2004
Last Login: 10/29/2012
From: prospect park, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Hi was that a plastic center gear?
Also i see what was causing your diff to lock...
see in photo bellow there is a metal shaving stuck in the back sidewall of your diff casing and from other photos you posted it looks like one of the backs of the spider gears is what it chipped away from... strange why it would do this but it looks to me like it may have been a faulty part with a defect because usually the gear teeth rip off before the back side cracking a chip out like yours did ?



And see chiped spot on the back of spider gear in this photo


_____________________________

Thanks
Shenlonco

Hide Signatures

(in reply to rclugnut10)
       Post #: 129

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 9:25 PM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
Score: 105
Joined: 3/11/2010
Last Login: 3/29/2012
From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: shenlonco

Hi was that a plastic center gear?
Also i see what was causing your diff to lock...
see in photo bellow there is a metal shaving stuck in the back sidewall of your diff casing and from other photos you posted it looks like one of the backs of the spider gears is what it chipped away from... strange why it would do this but it looks to me like it may have been a faulty part with a defect because usually the gear teeth rip off before the back side cracking a chip out like yours did ?


And see chiped spot on the back of spider gear in this photo



 Holy crap batman!! WOW  you know i looked at those pics awhile too because i thought maybe i will see something other than what i see in person,, i did not notice that but your right!! I will have to pull the parts out this weekend again and look at the back of the spider gear and see if that is what it is Wow man GOOD EYE!!  And no the idler was a stock metal one.
Thanks Man!!


_____________________________

JRockZ

Hide Signatures

(in reply to shenlonco)
       Post #: 130

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 10:12 PM   
shenlonco



Posts: 3878
Score: 124
Joined: 5/7/2004
Last Login: 10/29/2012
From: prospect park, NJ, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: JRockZ


quote:

ORIGINAL: shenlonco

Hi was that a plastic center gear?
Also i see what was causing your diff to lock...
see in photo bellow there is a metal shaving stuck in the back sidewall of your diff casing and from other photos you posted it looks like one of the backs of the spider gears is what it chipped away from... strange why it would do this but it looks to me like it may have been a faulty part with a defect because usually the gear teeth rip off before the back side cracking a chip out like yours did ?


And see chiped spot on the back of spider gear in this photo



 Holy crap batman!! WOW  you know i looked at those pics awhile too because i thought maybe i will see something other than what i see in person,, i did not notice that but your right!! I will have to pull the parts out this weekend again and look at the back of the spider gear and see if that is what it is Wow man GOOD EYE!!  And no the idler was a stock metal one.
Thanks Man!!



THANKS
And WOW it's funny duratrax don't know how to mix metals for gears because the new metal mid gear that came in the ext2 ate away the top shaft.... now it looks like the new metal diff is eating away the metal mid gear!

maybe if you buy a new brushless top shaft and mid gear they got it correct this time and all gears will work with each other and wear evenly throughout the bunch of them?

_____________________________

Thanks
Shenlonco

Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 131

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/6/2012 11:42 PM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
Score: 105
Joined: 3/11/2010
Last Login: 3/29/2012
From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: shenlonco
THANKS
And WOW it's funny duratrax don't know how to mix metals for gears because the new metal mid gear that came in the ext2 ate away the top shaft.... now it looks like the new metal diff is eating away the metal mid gear!

maybe if you buy a new brushless top shaft and mid gear they got it correct this time and all gears will work with each other and wear evenly throughout the bunch of them?

 This was my first idler to go, it was/should have been from an EXT2 idler but may possibly have been from a later EXT i'm not sure but it is NOT plastic. I do know Forsure the new B.E. Top shaft is better metal, i have one new in the package sitting right here, its the same metal as the new diff gear i just left my original upper gears in and they did NOT last long at all like i said maybe 8 packs run through it.

 DEFINATLEY anyone upgrading to the metal B.E. gears should replace all gears that go INSIDE the trans as i think i may have said earlier.

As of shenlonco noticing the broken part in my pic above i have not gone back inside to look in the gear BUT i did buy this as a complete diff and not just the outter diff shell, I'm guessing as EXTrob had said before (or someone did) that the new B.E. gears have some washers behind the spiders it is possible those are what failed and caused my diff to jam. Once i get it apart again i will re-image and post my findings.
 Have a great weekend Everyone!!


_____________________________

JRockZ

Hide Signatures

(in reply to shenlonco)
       Post #: 132

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/7/2012 8:29 AM   
egbasher


 

Posts: 68
Score: 100
Joined: 11/7/2011
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Status: offline 		You're right, they look similar.  But I heard somewhere that duratrax used a castle motor and ESC.


Hide Signatures

(in reply to Link119)
       Post #: 133

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/7/2012 9:40 AM   
cumquat



Posts: 5741
Score: 210
Joined: 3/12/2008
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: kalamazoo, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: egbasher

You're right, they look similar.  But I heard somewhere that duratrax used a castle motor and ESC.


they have a rebranded cc ayatem, and they used the esc but it is the tacon motor. if you look at the wire output, it matches the tacon and castle never used that style.

_____________________________

HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to egbasher)
       Post #: 134

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/7/2012 3:28 PM   
EXT2Rob



Posts: 649
Score: 177
Joined: 12/29/2010
Last Login: 5/21/2013
From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: JRockZ

 This was my first idler to go, it was/should have been from an EXT2 idler but may possibly have been from a later EXT i'm not sure but it is NOT plastic. I do know Forsure the new B.E. Top shaft is better metal, i have one new in the package sitting right here, its the same metal as the new diff gear i just left my original upper gears in and they did NOT last long at all like i said maybe 8 packs run through it.

 DEFINATLEY anyone upgrading to the metal B.E. gears should replace all gears that go INSIDE the trans as i think i may have said earlier.

As of shenlonco noticing the broken part in my pic above i have not gone back inside to look in the gear BUT i did buy this as a complete diff and not just the outter diff shell, I'm guessing as EXTrob had said before (or someone did) that the new B.E. gears have some washers behind the spiders it is possible those are what failed and caused my diff to jam. Once i get it apart again i will re-image and post my findings.
 Have a great weekend Everyone!!



Wow, I can't believe that idler is metal! That's pretty toasted.  Odd that you didn't find any shim-washers in the new diff. The exploded parts chart shows them. I would think that if one or more of them failed, you'd have a LOT more pieces of metal in that diff case than what Shen spotted. I agree, you may have gotten a defective one that had some machining shavings left inside.  Quality-control?

EGBasher bought a Top Gear/shaft and found that the gear is 3mm wider than the original!!  It won't fit in the case!  There seems to be a mix-up with part#'s at DTX with the "new" and "old" part #s.



Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 135

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/7/2012 11:47 PM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
Score: 105
Joined: 3/11/2010
Last Login: 3/29/2012
From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: JRockZ
quote:

ORIGINAL: shenlonco
Hi was that a plastic center gear?
Also i see what was causing your diff to lock...
see in photo bellow there is a metal shaving stuck in the back sidewall of your diff casing and from other photos you posted it looks like one of the backs of the spider gears is what it chipped away from... strange why it would do this but it looks to me like it may have been a faulty part with a defect because usually the gear teeth rip off before the back side cracking a chip out like yours did ?
And see chiped spot on the back of spider gear in this photo

 Holy crap batman!! WOW  you know i looked at those pics awhile too because i thought maybe i will see something other than what i see in person,, i did not notice that but your right!! I will have to pull the parts out this weekend again and look at the back of the spider gear and see if that is what it is Wow man GOOD EYE!!  And no the idler was a stock metal one.
Thanks Man!!


I took the Diff back apart, i found nothing,,, but i did find the chunk that shenlonco pointed out, it was just a piece of the gasket material that came off from the outer edge and must have fallen inside when i took the diff apart, I cleaned throughly and put it back together and all seems well so far.
  My Evader is going brushed now, the LHS wanted 19.99 for the EXT2 Metal idler and  the plastic one was only 1.99 so i got the plastic as i will just be running a stock 20T or less motor in it from now on, i hope the plastic can handel it for a lil while anyhow.
.



_____________________________

JRockZ

Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 136

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/8/2012 7:10 PM   
EXT2Rob



Posts: 649
Score: 177
Joined: 12/29/2010
Last Login: 5/21/2013
From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		That idler gear looks very much like the top gears I've stripped in the past.  Still makes me think that whoever DTX contracts to make these parts doesn't know how to formulate steel properly and consistently.  Lack of quality control.......

I'd write to DTX, but honestly, I don't think they give a crap.  If they did, they'd have someone perusing these boards.  I've written them in the past and I got the standard boiler-plate automated response.  They could gather a S***load of good ideas, feedback and info just from this thread!

NTR, My misunderstanding:  I confused your comment about axles with the dogbones.  I too, broke both my axles.  Fortunately(?) I'd just gotten the DTX CV axles so I just installed them.  However, last Friday when EGBasher came up for a race day, during a race, my car stopped after making the "I just broke a drive-pin" sound, only to find out it was the pin in the CV joint that broke!!  I thought the car was out for the day, but I figured out that the body clips had the same diameter as the CV pin, so I was able to repair that one.  Not much later, the other one gave out, and I fixed it the same way.  Then yesterday, I had another pin in the CV fail.  I also noted when I installed the CV axles that the dogbone end that fits into the diff drive cup just barely fits into the drive cup, like the axle shaft is 3-4mm too short.  W.T.F DTX??  Now, EGBasher has had his CVs installed for 6mo, but he only runs about once a week.  Still, his CVs have held up ok, but I managed to break mine in less than a week?  TWICE?  Sure I run a lot more than he does, but if you add up the hours put on his CVs vs hours on mine, his have lasted a lot longer.  So again, is this due to quality control?


Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 137

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/8/2012 9:22 PM   
cummins driver



Posts: 4387
Score: 214
Joined: 3/3/2003
Last Login: 5/19/2013
From: Danville, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Well guys, im somewhat sad to report I sold my evader and its shipped out as of yesterday.....

I like the truck itself extremely well. But at this point I dont trust the transmission. It looks like the new diff gear is a harder steel than the idler, which caused the idler to wear down and then wear down the top shaft while it was at it. I decided i wasnt spending $30 on the transmission to be a guinea pig for duratrax to let us down again, so its gone.

On the other hand, my T4 which has a factory plastic diff gear and idler gear (steel top gear) is running pefect. The transmission is smooth as butter and I am running some much meatier tires on it than i was on the evader. It also has a ball differential and I have the same brushless in it that i had in my evader. It is running perfectly. I broke a carbon shock tower the previous owner installed, but an aluminum one was only $10 shipped and with a couple small upgrades this T4 should bash with the best of them. I am already confident that the transmission in it wont give me any trouble. Since the gears are a good nylon, they wont wear against each other and the thing is whisper quiet too.

For anyone reading, Im going to highly reccomend to at least wait for some people to get some run time on a brushless evader before buying one. $250 is the same price at the brushless T4.1 which is already proven to be an awesome truck. Duratrax really needs to get in gear and fix the transmission on these trucks if they want to keep from dying off. The rest of the truck is already good, the transmission is mainly what needs fixing. Hopefully the issues JrockZ posted up with are because he didnt swap in all 3 new gears, but I also wouldnt be surprised if they havent upgraded the idler like they should have. My point though, is that no one knows how it'll work out yet.

Just for kicks, here is my evaders replacement:


Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

- Savage - MGT Pulling Truck - Losi LST2 - Brushless Blitz - RC10GT (getting a 2.5) - Brushless T4 - Sportwerks Mayhem Pro

Hide Signatures

(in reply to EXT2Rob)
       Post #: 138

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 1:05 AM   
egbasher


 

Posts: 68
Score: 100
Joined: 11/7/2011
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I stumbled onto the perfect battery if you are running lipos on an EXT2 chassis.

It is a GensAce 2S 4000mAh hardcase.  www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4000-2s1p-hardcase.html


Only $20 at hobbypartz and it fits the battery tray on an EXT2 perfectly.  It's almost as if dtx designed the chassis around the battery.   The battery hold down strap goes right between the power leads and balancing leads.  It fits so well, you almost don't need the holddown strap.  

It's rated at 30C  which i can feel the difference in a castle system vs. a 25C battery.  More midrange punch.  I have two, both of which have at least 10-12 cycles on them and they have worked flawlessly.  I get about 25-30 minutes of run time with a 4600kV castle motor.  EXT2Rob gets about a minute or two less with a 5700kV castle.

For cost vs. performance, it can't be beat.


Hide Signatures

(in reply to NoTraxxisRustler)
       Post #: 139

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 1:10 AM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
Score: 105
Joined: 3/11/2010
Last Login: 3/29/2012
From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: egbasher

I stumbled onto the perfect battery if you are running lipos on an EXT2 chassis.

It is a GensAce 2S 4000mAh hardcase.  www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4000-2s1p-hardcase.html


Only $20 at hobbypartz and it fits the battery tray on an EXT2 perfectly.  It's almost as if dtx designed the chassis around the battery.   The battery hold down strap goes right between the power leads and balancing leads.  It fits so well, you almost don't need the holddown strap.  

It's rated at 30C  which i can feel the difference in a castle system vs. a 25C battery.  More midrange punch.  I have two, both of which have at least 10-12 cycles on them and they have worked flawlessly.  I get about 25-30 minutes of run time with a 4600kV castle motor.  EXT2Rob gets about a minute or two less with a 5700kV castle.

For cost vs. performance, it can't be beat.



Out of Stock


_____________________________

JRockZ

Hide Signatures

(in reply to egbasher)
       Post #: 140

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 1:28 AM   
The_Shark



Posts: 7105
Score: 494
Joined: 6/16/2007
Last Login: 5/6/2013
From: Plainfield, IL, USA
Status: offline 		really there shouldnt be a problem if the slipper is set-up to slip, i would run plastic on the idler but thats me. when i had my nitro it was a great truck with the exception that the ball diff SUCKED, carbide balls, propper adjustment, NOTHING fixed this thing, good thing they went geared.

_____________________________

Signature
(Max. 125 chars. 2 lines max)

Hide Signatures

(in reply to JRockZ)
       Post #: 141

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 3:55 AM   
cumquat



Posts: 5741
Score: 210
Joined: 3/12/2008
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: kalamazoo, MI, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: egbasher

I stumbled onto the perfect battery if you are running lipos on an EXT2 chassis.

It is a GensAce 2S 4000mAh hardcase.  www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4000-2s1p-hardcase.html


Only $20 at hobbypartz and it fits the battery tray on an EXT2 perfectly.  It's almost as if dtx designed the chassis around the battery.   The battery hold down strap goes right between the power leads and balancing leads.  It fits so well, you almost don't need the holddown strap.  

It's rated at 30C  which i can feel the difference in a castle system vs. a 25C battery.  More midrange punch.  I have two, both of which have at least 10-12 cycles on them and they have worked flawlessly.  I get about 25-30 minutes of run time with a 4600kV castle motor.  EXT2Rob gets about a minute or two less with a 5700kV castle.

For cost vs. performance, it can't be beat.


i used to have 2 of its big brother http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-5000-2s1p-hardcase.html . the first i plugged in backwards and the second i let sit fully drained for a month, forgot there was no juice in it and took it for a run without charging. puffed while charging. i might get some more soon, along with a new rc. i love my evader and i dont have much issue with the gears (replacing the top gear after 30 runs isnt too bad) but i am tired of 2wd. there is either no traction or so much that the front lifts. around here, there is no in-between. with dirt hawgs, it wheelies on gravel!

_____________________________

HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to egbasher)
       Post #: 142

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 3:57 AM   
rclugnut10



Posts: 5821
Score: 200
Joined: 4/12/2008
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: Hinsburg , VT, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: egbasher

I stumbled onto the perfect battery if you are running lipos on an EXT2 chassis.

It is a GensAce 2S 4000mAh hardcase.  www.hobbypartz.com/98p-30c-4000-2s1p-hardcase.html


Only $20 at hobbypartz and it fits the battery tray on an EXT2 perfectly.  It's almost as if dtx designed the chassis around the battery.   The battery hold down strap goes right between the power leads and balancing leads.  It fits so well, you almost don't need the holddown strap.  

It's rated at 30C  which i can feel the difference in a castle system vs. a 25C battery.  More midrange punch.  I have two, both of which have at least 10-12 cycles on them and they have worked flawlessly.  I get about 25-30 minutes of run time with a 4600kV castle motor.  EXT2Rob gets about a minute or two less with a 5700kV castle.

For cost vs. performance, it can't be beat.




I have two of the 40c's and they are great wayy more power than my 5000mha 25'c 2s's and again they strap fits them great, my other packs have a side exit wire so i had to trim the chassis...

i hear you cummin's about switching... i have an e firestorm that i'm very happy with and has become my main 2wd truck, i may dabble with some of the new parts slowly but the evader will not see the use it once did under todays power sad to say..

and cumquat try out a TTR sparrowhawk with a CC4600 and badlands all around absolute blast totally rips hooks up nicely very stable pulls sweet drifts point and shoot driving... very very fun truck...

the lug

_____________________________

Savage Flux 2350 Evader ST Pro EXT ''Detta ST E Choas, HPI E Firestrom Novus CP

Hide Signatures

(in reply to egbasher)
       Post #: 143

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 6:05 AM   
cumquat



Posts: 5741
Score: 210
Joined: 3/12/2008
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: kalamazoo, MI, USA
Status: offline 		i'm gonna get another tamiya df02 and rip the ez run 4000kv out of the evader. i had one before the ext2 and i messed it up beyond repair trying to us my second ext2's trans to power it (there is no slipper and the biggest spur is 70t). i run it once or twice with the bl and 2.2's, there is nothing it cant conquer. it was plowing through the 3 foot wild wheat and dandelions in my back yard like they werent even there. the motor was hot but that was because the body was restricting airflow and it was running 4" tires geared 18:70 (stock, not much room for adjustment). i think simply adding an integy heatsink with fan will suffice for cooling.

_____________________________

HELP! IM STUCK ON AN ESCALATOR!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to rclugnut10)
       Post #: 144

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 2:06 PM   
shenlonco



Posts: 3878
Score: 124
Joined: 5/7/2004
Last Login: 10/29/2012
From: prospect park, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		yea these evaders don't stand a chance against a T4 or HPI they much better quality.

_____________________________

Thanks
Shenlonco

Hide Signatures

(in reply to cumquat)
       Post #: 145

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/9/2012 4:26 PM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

Posts: 104
Score: 100
Joined: 4/4/2011
Last Login: 2/3/2013
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Honestly, I don't blame you. I would not recommend a BL evader to a friend. Mine only works BC I spent lots of time on it and well, around 250 bucks. The QC issue that DTX has is still a problem. 

I'm with EXT2Rob. DTX does not care.


Enjoy your 4.1. You will be much happier. 


 
quote:

ORIGINAL: cummins driver

Well guys, im somewhat sad to report I sold my evader and its shipped out as of yesterday.....

I like the truck itself extremely well. But at this point I dont trust the transmission. It looks like the new diff gear is a harder steel than the idler, which caused the idler to wear down and then wear down the top shaft while it was at it. I decided i wasnt spending $30 on the transmission to be a guinea pig for duratrax to let us down again, so its gone.

On the other hand, my T4 which has a factory plastic diff gear and idler gear (steel top gear) is running pefect. The transmission is smooth as butter and I am running some much meatier tires on it than i was on the evader. It also has a ball differential and I have the same brushless in it that i had in my evader. It is running perfectly. I broke a carbon shock tower the previous owner installed, but an aluminum one was only $10 shipped and with a couple small upgrades this T4 should bash with the best of them. I am already confident that the transmission in it wont give me any trouble. Since the gears are a good nylon, they wont wear against each other and the thing is whisper quiet too.

For anyone reading, Im going to highly reccomend to at least wait for some people to get some run time on a brushless evader before buying one. $250 is the same price at the brushless T4.1 which is already proven to be an awesome truck. Duratrax really needs to get in gear and fix the transmission on these trucks if they want to keep from dying off. The rest of the truck is already good, the transmission is mainly what needs fixing. Hopefully the issues JrockZ posted up with are because he didnt swap in all 3 new gears, but I also wouldnt be surprised if they havent upgraded the idler like they should have. My point though, is that no one knows how it'll work out yet.

Just for kicks, here is my evaders replacement:




Hide Signatures

(in reply to cummins driver)
       Post #: 146

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 12:13 AM   
NoTraxxisRustler


 

Posts: 104
Score: 100
Joined: 4/4/2011
Last Login: 2/3/2013
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Status: offline 		W.T.F. DTX?? - I though about getting those CV's, but apparenlty they are the same pot metal that they make their other "metal" stuff with  . . . . LOSI has CV's  that look like they  might fit, but I've had a couple of LOSIs before and they weren't anything to write home about either!

  



quote:

ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

That idler gear looks very much like the top gears I've stripped in the past.  Still makes me think that whoever DTX contracts to make these parts doesn't know how to formulate steel properly and consistently.  Lack of quality control.......

I'd write to DTX, but honestly, I don't think they give a crap.  If they did, they'd have someone perusing these boards.  I've written them in the past and I got the standard boiler-plate automated response.  They could gather a S***load of good ideas, feedback and info just from this thread!

NTR, My misunderstanding:  I confused your comment about axles with the dogbones.  I too, broke both my axles.  Fortunately(?) I'd just gotten the DTX CV axles so I just installed them.  However, last Friday when EGBasher came up for a race day, during a race, my car stopped after making the "I just broke a drive-pin" sound, only to find out it was the pin in the CV joint that broke!!  I thought the car was out for the day, but I figured out that the body clips had the same diameter as the CV pin, so I was able to repair that one.  Not much later, the other one gave out, and I fixed it the same way.  Then yesterday, I had another pin in the CV fail.  I also noted when I installed the CV axles that the dogbone end that fits into the diff drive cup just barely fits into the drive cup, like the axle shaft is 3-4mm too short.  W.T.F DTX??  Now, EGBasher has had his CVs installed for 6mo, but he only runs about once a week.  Still, his CVs have held up ok, but I managed to break mine in less than a week?  TWICE?  Sure I run a lot more than he does, but if you add up the hours put on his CVs vs hours on mine, his have lasted a lot longer.  So again, is this due to quality control?




Hide Signatures

(in reply to EXT2Rob)
       Post #: 147

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 1:07 PM   
Breakstuff


 

Posts: 42
Score: 100
Joined: 1/21/2011
Last Login: 2/17/2013
From: Bloomington, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I am back...    Got tired of stripping gears on the DT i had. So i sold it and left a while back. I ordered me a Black EXT2 this week. I also ordered a couple for the store. Got all the Brushless upgrades for it, and have a 3900KV brushless setup sitting at home waiting for it. Cant wait. Will be running 2S in it. Got lots of spare 2S packs. Will post up pics of my build and truck when i get time. 

Hide Signatures

(in reply to NoTraxxisRustler)
       Post #: 148

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 6:16 PM   
EXT2Rob



Posts: 649
Score: 177
Joined: 12/29/2010
Last Login: 5/21/2013
From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hey guys, just thought I'd share this pic and idea:  I'm sure everyone knows how the cheapo gear cover DTX uses don't last very long, they crack, split, and generaly loose their effectiveness.  Nevermind BORING.  Well after looking for a better one, and not finding any, my LHS guy said "Get some Shoe Goo and sandwich two of the gear covers together."  Boy was he right! Makes a very strong gear cover.  Then on my own, I found that I could use a colored permanent marker to color the INSIDE of the gear cover, and voila! Custom-colored gear cover!  Cheap an easy.  You could use multiple colors.....hell you could even paint them, I suppose.  But Sharpies are cheaper than lexan paint.


Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to Breakstuff)
       Post #: 149

RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 6:22 PM   
EXT2Rob



Posts: 649
Score: 177
Joined: 12/29/2010
Last Login: 5/21/2013
From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

W.T.F. DTX?? - I though about getting those CV's, but apparenlty they are the same pot metal that they make their other "metal" stuff with  . . . . LOSI has CV's  that look like they  might fit, but I've had a couple of LOSIs before and they weren't anything to write home about either!

 



I just called my LHS and talked with the guy about my CVDs.  I told him the original pins broke, I found that I could use pieces of body clip to replace the CV pin, but they don't last long either.  He said, "Yeah ya gotta use something like "music wire"".   Music Wire??  "Yeah it's a hardened steel wire and for like $3 you can make hundreds of those pins. We have it in several sizes, so bring it down an we'll find one that fits."  I'm thinking it must be piano wire.  So, I'm off to the LHS........



Hide Signatures

(in reply to NoTraxxisRustler)
       Post #: 150



Page:   <<   < prev  4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11 12 13   next >   >>  
All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more >> RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Page: <<   < prev  4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11 12 13   next >   >>  




Jump to:


 
Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

RC Universe is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2013.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America


2.156RCU1