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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 6:27 PM   
Breakstuff


 

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Status: offline 		NICE.. I like the Red cover.. I will be doing this..

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 6:58 PM   
egbasher


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah, that's the big problem with HPz.  Just wait awhile and it'll be in stock.


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 7:11 PM   
egbasher


 

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Status: offline 		Or maybe it's guitar string EXT2Rob and your CV's will play some awesome bass rifts!


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 9:14 PM   
EXT2Rob



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From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		'K, so I went down to the LHS (an Ace Hardware) and picked up a 3-piece bundle of that "music wire" (it really is labeled Music Wire).  Three pieces about 30in long for under $3.  They had all kinds of sizes (thicknesses).  We found one that would fit thru the holes in the CV joint. (0.062in or 1.57mm)  And guess what?  They work for Drive Pins too!  I've been going thru those like crazy, so now I have Solid Steel drive pins, I won't be breaking them.  Anyway back to the CVs.....I did have to run a small drill bit thru the inner piece that holds the pin and set screw, but easy-peasy it went in, I locked it down and cut it off with a Dremel cutting wheel.  I also made a few drive pins for the axels.  I'll let you all know how well they hold up after I run 'em for a while.


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/10/2012 9:21 PM   
Breakstuff


 

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/11/2012 2:52 AM   
cummins driver



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quote:

ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob

'K, so I went down to the LHS (an Ace Hardware) and picked up a 3-piece bundle of that ''music wire'' (it really is labeled Music Wire).  Three pieces about 30in long for under $3.  They had all kinds of sizes (thicknesses).  We found one that would fit thru the holes in the CV joint. (0.062in or 1.57mm)  And guess what?  They work for Drive Pins too!  I've been going thru those like crazy, so now I have Solid Steel drive pins, I won't be breaking them.  Anyway back to the CVs.....I did have to run a small drill bit thru the inner piece that holds the pin and set screw, but easy-peasy it went in, I locked it down and cut it off with a Dremel cutting wheel.  I also made a few drive pins for the axels.  I'll let you all know how well they hold up after I run 'em for a while.



You will never have a problem with that piano wire. I broke some factory drive pins on the CV joints on my Associated Monster GT. Its been converted to brushless, and weighs 13 pounds. Its the pure definition of driveline stress. However, I bought some piano wire the same size as my CV pins and everytime i have broken a pin I replace it with that. I have yet to break any of the piano wire pins. They hold up fantastic. Very very strong metal. Best part is, a whole 3 or 4ft stick of it is cheaper than 4 drive pins. lol

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/11/2012 3:04 AM   
cummins driver



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quote:

ORIGINAL: NoTraxxisRustler

Honestly, I don't blame you. I would not recommend a BL evader to a friend. Mine only works BC I spent lots of time on it and well, around 250 bucks. The QC issue that DTX has is still a problem. 

I'm with EXT2Rob. DTX does not care.


Enjoy your 4.1. You will be much happier. 



You know it really is sad. My evader was the first new r/c i have bought in a long time. I really enjoyed the truck and it was tough except for the driveline. I just didnt have the urge to spend 1/3 of what i did on the original truck to keep the transmission together. I guess thats why its gone. Its too bad though because they are a very capable truck other than that. Also, even though i never had a problem, i really disliked the hollow dogbone and wheel pins. Just not as strong as a solid pin.

I guess part of this is to be expected with a cheaper truck, but seriously. The quality of the metal driveline parts is the ONLY thing keeping this truck from really shining, and duratrax still hasnt taken the hint.

And for that matter... They could have left the top shaft the same, and saved money and used a high quality nylon for the idler and diff gear and been fine. Thats how my t4 and wifes t4.1 is from the factory (as you know) and they havent had a minutes trouble and i have put some run time on them already. Live and learn i guess.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/11/2012 8:16 PM   
shenlonco



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Status: offline 		I just sold my DT i think i am going to keep my EXT2 though .

< Message edited by shenlonco -- 1/11/2012 11:26 PM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/12/2012 5:14 AM   
cummins driver



Posts: 4387
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From: Danville, KY, USA
Status: offline 		Apparently duratrax has been working on this instead of the evader

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/announcement.asp?id=630

Not real sure what to make of it. The 1 thing i do think, is that its a mistake to put a 1 year warranty on any part of a race buggy. Those things get beat and abused. Im anxious to see the price tag. Hope they used better metals on this thing.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/12/2012 5:16 AM   
rclugnut10



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Status: offline 		i heard it'll be out for $350 for the roller... looks good to me, i saw a lot of attention details that i liked...

the lug

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/12/2012 5:18 AM   
JRockZ



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Status: offline 		Looks Ofna-ish to me, not so sure Ofna is doing that well maybe duratrax bought into them lol
 Sweet though i'd rather go with an ofna so far enjoying my new one very much

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/13/2012 2:05 AM   
philbullet


 

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HI iam kind of new here,been reading the complaints about the evader diff., well i have the same trouble right now.I have a older evader (green) not sure of the year or model num. i think it's a ST.
Well  i had got it going again for my son and then the diff. started slipping and making noise's.I ordered some gears for it from tower h. but  the idle gear is to big for bearings and it's still sliping.
So my question is what  no i need to rebuild the complet transmission or diff.. bearing size's and gears (plastic or metal ) that would be in stock at tower h. Iam not sure on the type of truck i have ,it's a rear wheel drive and had a stock 20t motor on it .I had paid $119.00 from tower a long time ago. thanks



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/13/2012 2:42 AM   
cumquat



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Status: online 		sounds like the ext. the best way to tell is open the diff. if it has gears, its an ext; if it has balls, its an st. i cant look up the numbers right now, but if no one else does i'll do it in a few hours.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/13/2012 3:20 AM   
rclugnut10



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Status: offline 		i would call that an old ST... here's a pic of the green body



sounds like your diff is loose i had that problem a week or so ago, i rebuilt my diff with a new screw and nut and it held much better,

https://sites.google.com/site/evaderinfo/

there's some build vids under the B2 mod of how to do up your diff that i did...

as far as what you ordered sounds like you got the EXT idler, get the steel one from the EXT2

the lug

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/13/2012 3:48 PM   
EXT2Rob



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From: Placerville, CA, USA
Status: offline 		If he has the old diff & idler, couldn't he just get a new metal idler and metal diff and call it good?

Welcome to the boards, Phil.  What kind of motor are you running in your old Evader?  Stock, brushed, brushless?
Get yourself some TracPower blue grease.  Once you replace your bad gears, this stuff will really help keep the wear down.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=TKPC8008
The new metal diff is fluid-filled with 20,000wt silicon diff fluid. Much smoother than the old one.
Here's a link to the diff and idler:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=+&FVSEARCH=evader+metal+diff&search=Go

When you rebuild the diff, apply the grease liberally.  Oh, and replace all the brass bushings with bearings.

If you want to upgrade to brushless, this IMHO is the best match for the Evader, and a great value at $70
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html
Great little motor, it comes with a programming "card" and is FAAAST, but not so over-powered that you'll be stressing the drive train too much.

If you'll be running on pavement, stock tires should be ok, but make sure your slipper is adjusted properly.  If you'll run on dirt, upgraded tires will be needed



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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 12:28 AM   
philbullet


 

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From: New IberiaLouisiana, USA
Status: offline 		thanks for the info. the motor was replace a while back with a Monster motor not sure on the turns i think around a 19 or 20,its from tower h..
I am just trying to get it back going again for my son,he has been bothering me.I would order a whole new assembly but there out of stock which seen like a regular basis.So i just i will have to take the diff. apart and look at it and order parts.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 2:45 AM   
cummins driver



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Status: offline 		You may be best to order a whole new differential and case assembled on ebay. You can usually get the reasonably priced on there.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 5:02 AM   
philbullet


 

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Status: offline 		I checked ebay for complete diff. can't find one.

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 5:03 AM   
rclugnut10



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Status: offline 		Tower should have one for the EXT and the new brushless but if you have the old school ST you're going to have to re build it yourself, i would tear into it first to find out what you need and such then go from there... and weather or not you have a ball or gear diff

the lug

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 5:19 AM   
philbullet


 

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Status: offline 		thanks ill tear it down tomorrow and look into it.


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 7:48 AM   
cummins driver



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Status: offline 		Here is the complete diff. However, i think you'd have to swap axles, dogbones, and the trans plate to run it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTXC7454-Assembled-Differential-Brushless-Evader-/380402045718?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item5891ba9316

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 2:50 PM   
philbullet


 

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Status: offline 		SO I WOULD HAVE TO ORDER MORE PARTS OR WILL THE ST HAVE THIS ON IT?


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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/14/2012 4:05 PM   
rclugnut10



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quote:

ORIGINAL: cummins driver

Here is the complete diff. However, i think you'd have to swap axles, dogbones, and the trans plate to run it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duratrax-DTXC7454-Assembled-Differential-Brushless-Evader-/380402045718?pt=Radio_Control_Vehicles&hash=item5891ba9316


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBURC&P=Z

it's a bit cheaper there...

also if you have an EVADER ST, not EXT you can not run that part with out dumping about $60 into a new transmission and such... kinda over rated, if you have an evader ST which has a different transimission than the EXT, EXT2, and evader Brushless. Therefor kindly check this website out...

https://sites.google.com/site/evaderinfo/


if you have an EXT with a GEAR differential then the above part will work but it sounds like you have the evader ST, which i will state for what feels like the 5th time, doesn't have the same transmission as the EXT or evader brushless...

the lug

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/17/2012 3:21 AM   
JRockZ



Posts: 148
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From: DFW, TX, USA
Status: offline 		You guys will prob kick my butt for this, i'm hoping to get a decent deal on this stuff, i have well over 200 invested here and i'll be happy if i make more than 100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150738628344?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649

If i dont get a decent price on the evader/s i may jst keep em and do some more bashing, its still fun with a brushed system back in it.
Thanks

< Message edited by JRockZ -- 1/20/2012 5:08 PM >

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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2. - 1/17/2012 5:06 AM   
cummins driver



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quote:

ORIGINAL: rclugnut10

which i will state for what feels like the 5th time, doesn't have the same transmission as the EXT or evader brushless...

the lug


Im not sure if this was aimed at me, but you CAN swap the brushless gearbox in, its just gonna cost quite a bit more because you need the gearbox and extra parts. However, it all depends on what reliability is worth to the person buying it.

Also, the gearbox at tower isnt in stock yet...

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